I've been a carpenter for 40 years. I use a job site table saw out in the field. I don't even own a big heavy shop saw. Here's a few things that I do for safe operation of a table saw. I always set the blade height to at least the gullet of the blade, but not too high, for saw dust clearing, and it also helps to keep the work piece down on the table and not float above the table. The blade also cuts better that way. I always check the rip guide with a tape measure at the front of the blade and also the back of the blade... I don't care how good the rip guide is. I always knock the back of the rip guide open a tad to make clearance for the board to pass through ( thats the #1 cause of kick back, no clearance on the back side of the blade.) I only use a push stick if I'm ripping something narrower than about 2 1/2 to 3 inches. When I push a board thru, I always wrap a a few fingers over the top of the rip guide, just in case something wants to pull my hand into the blade, my hand won't go there because I have most of my hand wrapped over the top and around the other side of the rip guide. The number one cause of accidents is just simply not respecting the possible dangers and not paying attention.

I was a little worried about installing the blade after reading a couple of reviews. But it was amazingly easy. Took about 1 minute. Works great kzfaq.infoUgkxjpBI8OOeUXib_iT7UomCrQ-uauwZJ62c . Cuts easily and is perfect for pocket cuts I needed to make for replacing some old deck boards.

I am a retired pro who still works wood as a hobby. My dad was a professional cabinet maker/joiner all his adult life. He taught me to adjust the blade to where the gullets clear the wood, enabling good blade tracking, further, it promotes clearing excess cuttings from the blade while also it keeps the blade cooler. This has served me well. The only hospital visits I've had from woodworking are a cut experienced while sharpening a chisel, and a slightly shortened finger tip that occurred while jointing a board long past fatigue from a LONG day had set in. Don't work with power tools when brain fogged!

Interesting! Thanks for the info. I used to do it the old school way. Decades ago I tired of having sawdust thrown at me so I dropped the blade to 1/8" above the wood surface along with a proper push stick/push block. I am a professional woodworker of over 40 years. No kickbacks ever. The key is a sharp blade. I've cut through the nastiest of wood with a sharp blade without issue. I have found that it's the cheap blades that are the most expensive in the long run.

Terrific video! You did a great job of presenting two schools of thought in a fair and levelheaded way. Cheers.

Hello, just found this channel. I always cut with the blade high. Your common sense explanation is right on. You can prove this all with geometry, trig, vectors and the whole engineering thing. My first table saw was one I made when I was in my mid-teens and I've been using them ever since. That is some distance above fifty. Also, been around sawmills, large remanufacturing saws, etc. The best safety tool is to watch what you are doing and keep your hands away from the blade. Some wood, especially green, will have stresses in it and will kick back. You have to account for it. Using a hollow ground blade helps. A sharp blade is essential. Some years back, while taking some survey classes at a Community College, I had to rip some rough old lumber into survey stakes in the wood shop. The wood instructor launched into me for having the blade above the board. The stakes didn't get cut. It was too dangerous to cut that stuff in that way.

Good info, thanks. I been woodworking since around 1960 and I am a retired safety expert. I really get ticked at these young youtube kids with missing fingers trying be a safety expert. Woodworking as with any job or hobby using power tools poses risks. A smart person will assess the risks, hopefully take some sort of action to minimize them and make the cut. As you correctly pointed out: with the blade low (as most youtubers say is the best and safest, that in itself introduces a SECOND hazard of a higher chance of kickback). And along with that higher risk of kickback comes a higher chance that your hand will end up coming into contact with the blade during the kick back event...so much for being the safest way. I just watched that happen yesterday on a video where the blade was really low, it kicked back a piece of wood that pushed/pulled his hand across the blade causing serious injury. I, like you am old school and keep my blade a little higher, use feather boards, push sticks or whatever is appropriate to keep me as safe as possible and enjoy the hobby. I just finished a 36X36 oak Carrom Board one side/Checker board other side. Loving retirement and woodworking. Be safe.

I just watched your video on using a table saw. It was the first “real” wood working tool I got. I experienced kickback early on and have not used it since because of this. My Dad gave me a set of push blocks, but still I haven’t pulled the saw back out. Thank you for not only sharing the different aspects of safety, but also the clear and simple way you explained the how and why. I’m glad I found your videos and have subscribed. Looking forward to watching more of the good info you share!

I see you refurbished that old craftsman table saw. I bought one a few years back that didn't have a fence. I ended up putting a accusquare fence on it. Best investment I've made. Good to see someone still using the older saws.

Back in 1969 my High School shop teacher demonstrated how dangerous table saws are, no guards, no riving knife, blade as high as it would go, we all stood behind him as he dropped a scrap of 2x4 on top of the blade and we watched as it flew 50 feet to the back wall and shatter, have never had a problem with power tools as I respect them.

I would encourage any novice or experienced woodworkers to follow the advice offered up by this gentleman. I’m an old-time woodworker who incidentally only has 7 fingers remaining -Yes, I too was bitten by a table saw, amputated 3 digits from my left hand instantly. It’s too late for me but this gentleman is trying to help prevent further injuries to people and I respect & appreciate his efforts -Listen to his words. Nice job on the video by the way. Cheers from Toronto.

I think it would have been good especially for beginners to explain the importance of aligning the blade straight with the table, and likewise the fence aligned with the table. Another VERY important point to mention is keeping the fence out of way when crosscutting using the miter gauge. I’ve used a table saw for nearly 60 years, and a couple of years ago, I let my common sense lapse for a second, and a short piece got trapped and flew out like a bullet. It struck me on the right side of my chest, and man did it ever hurt! I had abrasions, a bruise, and was sore for about 2 weeks. And finally, standing to the side a bit, out of the line of fire, is ultra important habit to develop! Good video, thanks for sharing, I’m sure lots of people will benefit from it!

Just finished watching the video. I have always have the attitude that I keep the blade just high enough to let the edge clear below the gap behind the teeth. No matter whether it is carbide or all steel design. Just keeping it below yet above allows debris to flow away from the area. Nice hat, which tells me you and I have a background of working on planes. Mine was with C-123,”White Whale” and 121s with ADC back in the 60s. Look forward to watching more videos.

Thanks for the video & your perspective. More than 40 yrs of carpentry, wood working & cabinet making. I can't even remember for certain from whom or where I learned my preferred blade height. I suspect it was as a young apprentice. I was taught to set the blade height high enough for efficiency but low enough for safety. This means I always raise the blade at apex or top of the blade which is the highest point above the wood/work piece so that the bottom of the gullet between the teeth is just above the piece being cut. About 1/16" - 1/8". This allows for clean, non burning cuts, allows the blade to fully eject the debris, chips, sawdust (that's what the gullets are for). This in turn helps keep the blade from over heating & running cool. It also places the front teeth in a downward trajectory at the leading edge/front to avoid kickback but the blade isn't so high that it will remove a whole finger. Best of both worlds. Relatively low blade exposure. High enough to cut straight, cleanly & with minimal heat build up by ejecting cut debris while minimizing kickback. I also always apply this method to my circular/skill saws. The blade is set just deep enough so that the bottom of the gullet is just below the work piece. Cheers from the west coast of Canada.

I was always told (and followed) my shop teachers advice in the 80s that the blade should always be above the piece by one full tooth. Never had an issue.

Years ago as a newbie, I set the blade "too high" according to modern recommendations. When I learned I was supposed to have the blade low and tried it, it made cutting a lot harder (presumably due to greater friction) and I got more burning. To me, it also seemed intuitively more dangerous from a kickback perspective, especially when cutting something like a large flexible panel that could easily lift up and get on top of the blade.

Nice to see David Carradine doing something constructive after retiring from films.

Excellent share, C&T! The simplest and most logical reason I was ever given for rip cutting with the blade up high was, "...if you can clearly see it, then you will avoid it!" (let's call this Lesson 1). As for kick-back - yeah, just don't stand there! EVER! (Lesson 2). ...for all the working contractors out there (who can scarce afford time off due to severe injury)... Lesson 3: ALWAYS take off your so-called contractors' gloves before operating any shop tool, and... Lesson 4: If it's someone else's table saw on your jobsite, have THEM make the cuts - they know that machine way better than you do. ...and finally for all of us... Lesson 5: SLOW DOWN AND PAY ATTENTION! (I have learned all these lessons the HARDEST way possible, I regret to report.)

When I started building cabinets about 16 years ago my boss taught me to put the blade up almost twice the thickness of the material. I'll be 35 tomorrow and still consider myself young. But after watching the video, reading these comments, and giving my comment, I'm beginning to think I'm old school myself.😄

"saws not plugged in so quit typing"......Too funny.

this makes sense to me. Have to say though, In all of my years of using a table saw, the only times I've come close to hurting myself are when I'm trying to rush, or I'm distracted. I've got an old saw without a riving knife and there's no doubt it's a dangerous machine, but my rule is NEVER rush and avoid any possible distraction. No music, podcast, friends, pets, day dreams, ect, when the table saw is being used. Also, if you're trying an unusual cut, or a new material, make sure you know what you're doing and understand the potential hazards first. It's those unforeseen issues that catch you off guard.

Thanks for the honest info! I was taught over 50 years ago that ALL power tools can hurt you and to respect them and know what the hell you're doing before using them. I always had "good" homeowner type table saws and in all these years had 1 kickback (into the gut) and no cuts. I raise the blade to the bottom of the gullet and always use a sharp blade. Equally important as keeping your hands away from the blade is to make sure the fence is properly aligned. I was taught Sharp is Safe. I've seen idiots get hurt using dull drill bits.

I'm just now at age 59 getting back into woodworking. My fear of my Craftsman table saw blade is no less now than back in woodshop in the late 1970's. I'm really glad you took the time to talk about blade heights because its something I dont ever remember learning but I wonder about it every single time I use the saw. IMHO: part of being safe is being efficient. If a blade is cutting sharp and efficient then you dont use as much force to guide it through your cut. Less force means less chance of slippage. I only have high school woodshop for experience but I once witnessed a piece of wood kick back and stick into a concrete wall behind the perhaps donkeyish teen boy making the cut. Also: the Safety shield I remember using seemed to get in the way more than keep you safe. I've never tried a nerd or whatever but that seems like a good thing to try. I think most important is common sense and no distractions. As an amateur I really try to take my time. Sometimes I get in the Zone where everything just flows...but without experience that is rare. Thanks again...I am going to try raising my blade higher...like 200-250% of the thickness of the piece being cut. Up until I watched your video I was adjusting the blade so that the throat of the blade was just coming out of the top of the wood surface but like you said that makes more friction and raises the risk of kickback.

A HIGHLY informative and educational video that everyone should watch. Thank you for this great video Sir, and God Bless.

Great stuff you have covered here. I would like to add that the use of your push blocks (the type with a heel hook) GREATLY reduces potential issues due to greater control of the work piece and likely reducing the benefit of having more blade exposed. The second item (using your test piece of 1x4 pine) is that it keeps the piece DOWN tight to the saw top, which reduces the possibility of the rear of the board lifting and being introduced to your face at high velocity! Not really obvious, but that test piece has a slight cup to it and was rocking on the saw top. When cutting shorter boards like that, I am always more concerned of kickbacks from the rear lifting, as opposed to kickbacks from blade binding, etc. Maybe paranoid, but I never rip anything shorter than about 30". My saw is a 40 year old Delta, with no guard or riving knife, but I have a whole fleet of push blocks. Those can easily be rebuilt. My fingers, not so much. Although useful in some situations, I usually don't like the old school 'chicken foot' push stick. Those can contribute to the board lifting, IMHO.

As a professional Wood Machinist/Joiner taught by some very talented, old school guys. I was always told a high blade reduces the cut surface (amount of blade to wood contact) but gives a rougher cut because of the exit angle. A low blade height increase the cut surface, and therefore the force needed to push the timber through as well as the work done by the motor, but the exit angle will give a cleaner cut. I generally stay in the middle ground and adjust the height based on what I’m trying to achieve

Love that 'old' saw. I've had my 10'' Craftsman since the mid seventies.

Excellent information. My neighbor gave me a very old table saw yesterday, with zero safety features. I haven't used a table saw in over 50 years, and then only in shop class. And more than 25 years ago I lost my left arm in an electrical accident. I've been getting into woodworking now and am using a circular saw, power planer, miter saw and router. It's fun and I take a lot of precautions. After watching this video I'm wondering if I can ever safely use a table saw, let alone the antique my neighbor gave me.

Been cutting wood for decades, but even today, after all the experience I’ve gained over the years, I cut scared. That freaking blade scares me. That is why I make every cut like a new chapter in my life and the ending, a happy one. My beloved father said to me long time ago “know where your fingers are at all times.” Thanks, Dad. Yes, I know where you are. God bless!

Hi, I live and work in the UK. Our saw fences and systems were very different to yours in the USA, Different remember I didn't say better. I started in the shop at age 15 (1965)as an apprentice. The fence would typically not extend beyond the gullet of the saw tooth nearest to the operator. This was to reduce the chance of kickback. The first full-length fence I saw was on an imported contractor saw. It was and likely still is a legal requirement for saws to be fitted with a riving knife and a top guard ( in a workplace as opposed to a home shop) and to have a push stick with a birdsmouth cut and be least 14" long. many saws were not fitted with a rise and fall so the saw blade could be 8" out of the table. And of course, if the timber being cut was not true the round side would go towards the fence. Thanks for your video and everyone else's comments.

I don't offer this as criticism, but rather to inform. You make a good video with valuable information for all woodworkers. We "tune" in to learn and the music in the background only interferes with the communication. Sorry to be negative.

I was taught to put the bottom of the gullet of the tooth above the piece. So, it varies in height, but you essentially always have a minimum of a full tooth and a hair above the wood. I get good cuts, it isn't high enough to fully sever a finger in one go, and it reduces the force needed to push the piece through. For running very thin pieces through the table saw I just use a feather-board and a push-block. The feather-board applies lateral pressure, and also prevents any easy kickback, so all I have to do is apply forward and down pressure with the push block/stick from above.

Although you call it a kerfing knife, it's commonly referred to as a riving knife and another type is called a splitter. The riving knife moves up and down with the blade because its attached to the trunnion while a splitter is fixed to the top. Riving knife is considered the better design since it's closer at the back of blade to support cut piece immediately after it has passed the blade. Most riving knifes can also be adjusted flush to top of blade so a dado cut can be made while still retaining the use of a riving knife but most splitters are in the way so it has to be removed or a special one has to be made for shallow cuts. As for the blade height, it should be raised high enough to allow proper venting and chip removal and most manufactures recommend raising blade up until carbide blade exits completely above material and some gullet gap is exposed. Keeping most of the blade teeth under a piece produces more friction and burns which increases chances of binding and kickback.

I've been using a table saw 40 plus years. I agree, it is one of the most dangerous tools. I use the push tools also. Please don't forget, to not put yourself in the line of fire. Standing to the side is as important as keeping your fingers away. I've seen a few injuries from kick back. We can get into other things like feather boards, but safety is where it starts. Thumbs up and fingers out of way.

Thanks for sharing your experience, expertise and honest advice. I am a retired guy just getting into woodworking and binge-watching KZfaq videos on table saw safety. One of my first purchases after getting a Dewalt DWS7491RS was a GRR-RPPER 3D Push Block and a Bench Dog Push-Bloc Push Pad. Now I feel like I can begin to make cuts much more safely and build a couple sleds more safely to get started. Tried to work with the single plastic push stick that came with it and quickly realized that was going to be a non-starter for me.

With the plastic dust collecting blade shrouds that most new saws do come with these days, it makes cutting with the blade higher even safer on top of redirecting those forces down to the table. Great video!

Having had a close encounter with a blade that left a memorable kerf in my right first metacarpal, I no longer get closer than a sturdy push pad/stick.

A lower blade reduces the depth your saw can cut into a stray finger, but it also tripled or quadrupled the amount of wood in contact with the cutting teeth of the blade. A high saw cuts a much straighter line (almost verticle) reducing the amount of wood being grabbed by the teeth at any point in time. It's a matter of preference and your own comfort level in how much you pay attention and how in control you are when cutting. Choose your own adventure.... but do it wisely.

I've been woodworking for 40 years and have had very few incidents with kickback. The other day I was using my homemade tapering jig to taper some legs. I had it all set up and then I realized I didn't have my zero clearance insert installed. Big mistake. The wedge of the taper came off and went inside the insert and bam. It sounded like a m80 going off. It broke one of my garage door windows and I felt the breeze of something barely missing my head even though I was standing to the side of the saw. I learned my lesson and I was lucky. I had to say a little prayer after that.

I liked how u spent the time & were personable. U explained both sides. Within the video u provide choices in real-time experience, thank you sir. I plan to utilize ur words as a "tool" in a single case sinario. I'm rambling, I'm 38 w/ 3yrs experience, taught in work experience.

I spent 30+ years working in cabinetry and display work. I always set my blade at the notch at the bottom of the tooth, about a 1/4 to 3/8" above the wood. I also used the splitter/anti kick behind the blade, this insures that if there is any binding after the cut it will not close up and of course no kick back. The biggest detriment to table saw safety is repetition, working one operation all day one can become lackadaisical and start to drift mentally. Time to take a break.

Years ago, at the beginning of that years woodshop class one of the first things my Woodshop teacher in junior high did was hold up the table saw's fence and told us students that, that fence was the most dangerous piece of the table saw, and that if it was used improperly while using it during the process of cross-cutting boards it would more than likely cause the "abuser" (meaning the table saw user), a horrific amount of undue pain and suffering due to the possibility of creating a dangerous "Kick-Back" situation when the board being cut became twisted and jammed itself between the table saw blade and the fence. He stated that it was called a "Rip Fence", and that it was called a "Rip Fence" for one reason, and one reason only. It was to be used only for ripping boards in combination with a ripping blade, and was not to be used during the process of cross-cutting boards in combunation with a Cross-Cutting blade. He then explained to us students that if he observed (or caught), any of us students using that "Rip Fence" during the cros-cutting process, or even if it was sitting on top of the table saw during the cross-cutting procedure, he would immediately cease all woodshop procedures (until he returned from the principles office), and then would escort that student to the principles office to discuss safety procedures with the principle, then write up a written report pertaining to what occurred, and temporarily suspend that student from the use of the wood shop, and its equipment for two weeks, and would give that student a failing grade for that semester. That woodshop teacher was mighty serious about "Safety in the Woodshop", and I have never forgotten either that woodshop teacher, or his "Safety " message pertaining to the proper use of the "Rip Fence".

Thank you for this very informative video, I am an older like you and not much experience though - I was taught the way you do the blade at the higher depth so your video is a real eye opener. I have never been comfortable with the table saw after almost hitting a fellow student with a kickback board in shop class , so thank you.

Good stuff… I thought I remembered that from wood shop back in 1971. Now, thanks to your video, I realized that advice/directions have changed. Thank you

I will pay attention and obey anyone who has been making sawdust as long as you and still has all 10 fingers! Thank you for passing along solid information and being concerned about us!

I've had a SawStop for four years, and even though I'm old, I'm still a beginner. Just recently I read the recommendation to set the blade height such that the gullet clears the board being cut. The explanation was that doing so allows the blade to clear the sawdust better. Well, except for the initial cut approximately the width of the upper portion of the blade, there's no sawdust doesn't get trapped in the gullet until the blade is rotating from 12 o'clock and into the wood. Once the gullet clears the bottom of the board, the sawdust will hopefully be sucked into the dust collection. Until the blade rotates back to the 12 o'clock position, I don't see where there is any sawdust in the gullet. I'm willing to stand corrected. Second, as far as the angle of cut is concerned with a higher blade creating a steeper angle of cut, are the angles of the teeth today the same as they were 50 years ago? It seems that by the teeth leaning forward, they can achieve a greater angle of cut with a lower blade height. I have no clue what I'm talking about on this one. As far as push sticks are concerned, the only "kickback" I've had so far was when I carelessly knocked my push stick/block over into the blade. Luckily it hit me in the arm and not in the face or chest. It could have been bad. Live and learn. Now I never leave anything where it can be knocked over into the blade.

You mentioned you've been using a table saw for 50 years and I noticed you still have all your fingers! So I'm thinking you know what your talking about. Lol! But seriously, I've only been into wood work for a few years and the only time I've had a board get squirrely on me is when the blade was in a lower position. So this makes total sense. Thanks 😊

I live in the UK. and recently found a well known router manufacturer market a spray for wood cutting tools . This spray will stop resins and glues from plywood and OSB board sticking to your blades and works as a lubricant on saws. I tried it and got a much a more efficient and smoother cut on my saw table. Very impressed.

I was taught 50% higher than the wood. I vary that depending on thickness and other factors. The biggest thing is awareness of where my fingers are and where the blade is, as well as where the material is. No loose clothes, don't work too fast, make sure someone is nearby, and absolutely no cutting if tired.

I started using table saws before blade guards and kickback prevention. I was shown that you can get kickback if your fence is not repeatably accurate, meaning that if the rear of the blades is closer to the fence than you get a pinching effect across the blade when pushing it through and more surface contact, so I was taught to measure both the front and rear of the blade and make them even or actually slightly further from the fence at the rear to prevent kickback.

I started cabinet making around 1992. About 30 years and my favorite job was always cutout on table saw. Those days are gone with CNC but table saw still is needed. I use saw same way with blade about 1/2" to 3/4" above piece. Never been cut, had a few kick backs (never hurt) but learned what not to do.

Personal Note. First time viewer noticed your cap. My Father was a test flight engineer for the C-130 A through J model. He was with the 4 Horsemen also. Great stories about the power to weight for the A model allowing it to do the aerial tricks the Thunderbirds would do. Made me feel good seeing your cap.

2 things I would add to this that I've found make a huge difference, a good jointed board edge against the fence and a floating blade guard . Not always possible but jointer, or jointer plane, first and one face then the saw , most lumber as bought is not really ready or safe for the table saw.I did not have a jointer or planer for a long time but what a difference they make

The two best things I have ever done for my saw setups are: Use a high fence, set one inch or more than the max blade height as a limit for my hand. The second thing is to have a proper long out feed table, which lets me push a piece out smoothly. I resent being on the short end of a lever, thus tricking me to force the wood down onto the table near the end of its cut. (The most dangerous part of the sawing I have seen is not having a dedicated out feed table. Those twig-trees and helpers cause more havoc holding a piece out there. YOU need to be in control of the cut!!!!) The Low Blade Safety ASSUMPTION maximizes the approach angle, and maximizes the tooth force tangential of the blades radius. This vectors forces which razes the work piece. In other words you can feel the board rise up when sett up like this, especially with slightly dull blade. Also, when set low, tooth time in contact with the wood is at maximum, creating heat, and if the material is dense like oak forget-about-it! 5000 RPM is 83 rotations per second. Multiply that by the number of teeth on the blade to find how many teeth per second. Saws with 1.5 to 3 HP always bog at the operators feeding rates.

Great video and great advice. After working for just over 14 years in a production shop with 8 to 12 hours a day 6 days a week a lot of the time, I solved the problem on my home shop. I bought a Vevor power feeder. It works great. And I always kept my blades high, just above the gullets. I still have 10 fingers with no empty slots.

I have a tremendous amount of respect for table saws... and I use one. I was shown and taught by my Dad not to get the gullet above the workpiece or " You're just asking for trouble, Son". I miss my Dad, but I still heed his teaching and it has served me well, knock on wood. We, and later me, built a lot of "stuff" together. Low teeth and push blocks work. OMG...".... unplugged..". Lmao!! Really"deflated" the egos of the Pseudo Safety Warriors...lolol 😂! Thanks for the demo/info! 👍!

Perspective. I think the main reason that the table saw is the number one piece of equipment that people get injured on, is because it's by far the one piece of equipment that most all woodworkers have. Great video.

Back in the 70's I was taught for both table saws and circular saws to set the cutting depth to half the gullet depth. I've been running with that ever since. Nice cuts and safe, never been hurt. Oh yeah, push blocks are a necessity for table saw safety!

Good video! It is helpful for newbies and weekend warriors. I've been woodworking for 65 years and still have all my fingers and other body parts. I use the rule on table saws and circular saws to set the blade so the bottom of the gullet between the teeth is even with the surface of the board.

I had the exact same 2 senarios explained to me in Junior high woodshop class. In my home as a youth the instruction was to use the blade at the lowest possible setting to get a definite cut, not necessarily a clean cut; more blade past the wood is better for wood management and cleaner cuts.

My dad would lower the blade all the way down, unplug the saw, and remove the belt when he was done using his table saw. I do not remember him teaching me how to use it or explicitly giving me permission to use it. I guess he figured if I had passed wood shop in middle school and was strong enough to drag the saw out of the furnace room into the basement, and get the v-belt back on, I must be okay to run it.

I can't say I've been at it for a plethora of years, I began poking around with this hobby 5 our 6 years ago, but I certainly make my cuts this way. I've tried both methods. The results are indeed better, and I'm confident there is less binding and kickback when the blade has more space to operate freely (i.e. it has some area to spin freely both above and below the work piece).

Good advice and as well as a riving knife and push stick I made myself an electro magnet feather board which goes on the other side of the work from the fence.. This clamps the work perfectly straight between the fence and the feather board, can be switched on or off to position anywhere on the table and there's no need to put any sideways pressure on the work to keep it up against the fence.. The commercial version is called Magswitch.

I've wondered the same exact thing, that you want the angle of the blade on the work pushing a little more downward. Also I've cut full sheets of thinner plywood (once it was 1/16" hdpe) before, and if the sheet flexes upward off the table in the middle a little, you still want the blade to come thru.

I'm with you, I've always made my cuts with the blade about 1/2" above the wood or high enough to clear the cutouts in the teeth. I always thought that was to aid chip extraction, which prevents binding, which prevents kickback. How much of that is true I don't really know, but it has worked well for me over the past 30 years or so. Hasn't hurt the one carbide all-purpose blade I've been using over most of that time either. Still makes superfine cuts that don't need sanding. Cheaper blades tended to burn the wood so I stopped using them.

Thank you for this. I still have a love hate relationship with my table saw and router. As a beginner, I am constantly terrified and basically avoid doing any work! But videos like this help my anxiety a great deal! Thank you!…On to those shelves then!

Thanks some great tips and love the "contraptions" you use.

30 years as a carpenter. I am right there with you. Teach safety to the newbies. Do what works best for you. I swear by fish sticks and jigs.

Interesting... The way I set mine is to ensure the carbide tip in the highest point sticking above the board. It is because the lumber I worked with not always flat and sometimes bowl and twisted by 1/8 or more. It has to cut thru all of that. Most of the time, I just leave it 1/2"-ish above the board. However, I do use long pushing stick or block where my hand is at least 6" to 8" away from the blade.

Love what your doing. Many years ago when I was just starting, I was cutting live edge lumber to square it. The piece to the left of the blade, the live edge side, tampered down, broke loose at the blade and kicked back. A piece about 4 feet long tore into my t shirt just knicking me. If I had been a few inches to the right it would have gone into my belly. That is the only time I have seen left side kick back.

I've been using a table saw over 50 yrs also. I was 19 and I worked in a cabinet shop, 8 hrs a day on the table saw. The guy that ran the shop was an oldtimer like I am now. Even after all these years seeing the blade up high like that gives me the creeps. You never want to do that.

We were taught in HS shop, 54 years ago to have the blade about 1/4 inch above the stock. I still use that rule. Enjoyed it.

I like the blade a little higher also, seems safer and does seem to guide the wood thru the cut. Also use push sticks and feather boards when needed and something you didn't mention was to use a "SHARP"saw blade. A dull blade will get you into trouble.

Many people are saying the blade should be high enough that the bottom of the gullet is just clear of the work to efficiently remove the sawdust and increase the cooling of the blade. I always use Push sticks and/or push blocks. You gave the most important piece of advice quite early into the video. "Keep your hands away from the blade"!

It's great to have a real vet explain this stuff and at the same time understand it all. I only started woodwork in July but it's gripped me :D After I bought a mitre saw everything became easier but I read the safety instructions properly and checked out loads of videos on how to properly use it. I DO have a table saw which I bought last month which I haven't had the opportunity to use yet as weather in England sucks but the blades you showed are exactly like the ones on mine with that dip. Got a new sub. Have a GREAT New Year mate : ]

Great old skool advice from one old dude to another, subscribed, thanks for your time👍

Understanding the physics that is going on when using a table saw is a significant part of being safe. Most of the guys that I know that have gotten hurt just didn’t understand what they were doing. The other ones were doing something repetitive and got complacent.

Excellent advice for all. I personally set the blade depth at about 1/8" and I can testify that if I didn't practice that my left thumb would be a little shorter. With that said my incident would not have happened if I had not been distracted by my son-in-law. So my advice is first eliminate all distraction and second concentrate on the project and HAND!!!!

I started using a table saw with my father when I was 8 years old. I have never used a riving knife nor have I used a blade guard. I still have all my fingers with no hand scars. I am now 75+ and still working the table saw. I am now using the wheeled hold downs when ripping boards. Have used feather boards for years.I'm on my 4th table saw and now I have a cabinet saw. The only person that I have ever known that has lost any part of his/her body was a friend that lost his left thumb, with a circular saw...

hey new follower from SD. seen 2 of your vids so far, love the attitude and the bit of sass! looking forward to more of your vids!

If the high blade helps prevent kickback at the cost of increased risk of cutting, then the obvious solution is to keep the blade low but use a riving knife to eliminate the kickback. Alternatively, use a good blade guard and don't worry about the height so much.

There is one problem with your assertion of keeping the blade high because "it keeps the board nice and straight" and that is that the kerf of the blade's teeth are slightly wider than the spinning disk they are mounted to, and the friction you feel keeping it in line is from the back teeth making contact with the board from behind. Yes, there is more distance with which the blade spans to allow less movement, but a Master carpenter will push his fence ever so slightly away from the blade at the far end to keep a board riding away from the fresh cut line, to avoid burn marks on his new line... this takes advantage of the leeway in the kerf of the blade and always gives you a 100% burn free line on the piece against the fence. The biggest thing about kickback is something being out of alignment, or a warped/twisted board. By using a "chicken foot" push stick in conjunction with a normal one, you can add a lot of distance and hold a board very close to the blade, (like a feather board) and give yourself a lot more control than just a regular push block or stick.

The only time I ever had kick back was while cutting a piece of oak that was about 8x6 inches. I was cutting a groove to fit a tongue so the blade was only about 1/4 inch into a 1/2 inch board. I wouldnt have any fingers if it wasnt for the wood on top. I tried to keep it from kicking and ended up with both hands on it. Just a split second reaction before I let it completely go. When I let it go it took a second before it kicked back. The board came back really fast hitting my right hip and hand then flew about 30 ft or so into the air. Good old memories of high school wood shop. Lol it could've been really bad but I ended up with a monkey bubble on my right index finger and a bruise on my hip. That's one of those scenarios that makes one never forget it. I still use table saws all the time, just more carefully now. One thing you should add is keeping the bigger portion of the wood being cut to the fence. That's a pretty big tip on not getting kick back.

I was taught to clear the gullets by a blade manufacturer. They said that cools the blade enough to minimize burning and to clear any sawdust, but not so high that it guarantees that you'll lose an appendage.

Thanks, very good. My opinion is to always have a little 'fear' for every power tool as they can all do damage.

I think one of the big reasons for kickback is rip fences that are not parallel to the blade, especially if the are closer at the rear of the blade. I have a couple of older Craftsman saws and frankly the rip fences are not very accurate. I think an accurate fence is probably the most useful thing you can do to prevent kickback to say nothing of putting out better work.

The worst kick back I ever got was from ripping with the cutoff narrower than the outboard opening of my face plate. I was needing some thin veneer faces for covering plywood edges. It splintered at a small knot and dove into the opening. I heard it before I saw it… but still couldn’t hit the stop before it came back at me. I ducked just in time to have it whiz by my ear. That startled me and I let loose of the push block. It hit the blade snd was thrown back also. The wider portion of the board rose up on the saw blade and skidded much slower back toward me as well. That split second taught me a couple of lessons… 1. Use a zero clearance insert when cutting narrow edges from parts… or just joint them some other way instead. In this case I was needing to use the narrow edge. 2. I’m not faster, stronger, tougher or smarter than a tablesaw. So, spend as much time and effort as it takes to do a safe setup! As far as the secret goes… I’m an old fart too. I use a riving knife on every cut that I can. And blade height… I split the difference. The norm for me is for a full tooth to protrude above the wood. It is lower than the thickness of my push block yet high enough to have that downward cut that gives the cleanest cut. I’d like to add one more thing… all of the new saws come with plastic push sticks. That should be outlawed. The only time I’ve been cut on my saw was when the brittle plastic push stick hit the blade. It shattered and a shard imbedded in my cheek. When I wrote to the manufacturer they sent me another one with a full page set of instruction on how to use it safely. Both of which went directly in the trash!

got my thumb years ago, ripping a small piece of lumber...mushroomed the end of it...learned my lesson, very lucky as it healed back up eventually

Hi, lumber yards use very large circular saws normally at full depth of cut but they are usually used with the "work piece" in a carriage on guide rails. This is similar to my preferred approach on a table saw in that I use a fence on both sides of the work piece with clamped blocks on the left hand fence to stop the work piece lifting. Also an adjustable guard that covers the blade position is attached to the right hand fence and push sticks are used to feed in the work piece through the "jig" formed by the two fences. Admittedly more time to set up but gives very accurate, repeatable and safe cuts (particularly on a long work piece). Note; still not idiot proof and will not stop stop kickback due to blunt saws and excessive feed rates.

This is late to the party, but what I was taught as a machinist was to select my blades such that I would have three teeth in the work. I could use more, but there might be more heat from friction and drag as the teeth spring in (kerf narrowing) but if I used less I would be likely to break teeth in the work. The stress just isn't divided among enough cutters. That's for metalwork, but the same goes for wood. I set my table saw so I keep three teeth in the cut. If I'm ripping thick boards, fewer teeth on the blade so I don't have to stand it out so tall, and thin sheet, more teeth.

I always use the same safety push boards you use to help guide the wood instead of my bare hand by the blade just in case. I also cut with my blade a little high too cause I think it cuts better also. Been woodworking 40 years and so far so good. Great video and Thanks for making it.

I got bit once and I was glad that I took my 8th grade shop teacher's instructions to heart. Blade height to just clear the top of the material. While I had a slice taken out of my thumb, I still have the thumb but with only a scar to remind me.

1974 Craftsman Cast Iron tablesaw, I'm with you on the high side better cut , less heat with hard woods, still have 10 fingers and 2 thumbs.............

I was taught the MINIMUM height was the one that cleared the tooth gullet above the material. It gives a clean cut because it keeps the saw from dragging excess sawdust down into the cut zone, but also guarantees spitting dust upwards. Second, to avoid standing directly behind the area between the blade and fence. (Don't let anyone else stand in that line, either. Easy to do for narrower cuts, near impossible for wide ones. I've experienced a couple of incidents. One was the inadvertent kind of twist another responder mentioned. That resulted in a violent throw upwards of the ply panel I was cutting. Scared the bejesus out of me and I stopped for the day. Another was a classic pinch ripping hardwood, kerf closing up as tension was released from the cut, the kickback coming from the fence side. This on an older saw without a riving knife. That was an absolute rocket straight back. That missed because I wasn't in the danger zone. For those who haven't seen this, the speed is beyond belief. Personally, I think the safest solution is a higher blade, which reduces the most common problem (kickback) PLUS using a blade guard. And I have to confess that I don't use the latter very much, also relying on tools to keep my hands clear. I do use feather boards a lot when ripping, too. I've tried hold-down devices, but found them too much of a pain in the neck to use in a home (i.e., non-production) shop where you're changing set-ups all the time. Thanks for the video - it has me thinking about guards again.

Great show! Couldn't find anything to complain about. 50 years is about right for me as well, and I have never been hurt yet. I did have one instance of kickback that could really have hurt (cutting a product called Finform, 17 layer Birch I think, and razor sharp edges as it came through the blade ... but it missed me), but none since! The only thing I would add is a system that anybody that comes out to my shop knows to LISTEN, KNOCK, SPEAK LOUDLY before entering. The other thing is that I never take my eyes off of the blade. You're right, that machine will eat you alive if it gets its hand (blade) on you. Blade height for me is about ⅛", and no riven knife or plastic cover. Eye/ear protection, and an open shop door for the dust to leave. Tip: a ballistic vest will stop a bullet, but you are still going to the hospital.

Have not had kickbacks on table saw, but plenty on the circular. But, I have rarely used the table saw, don't even own one. My Pop, on the other hand, almost lost three fingers a few years back on a table saw. But he gets in a rush...me, I NEVER get in a rush. Approaching 70 years old and still have eight fingers and two thumbs. Good video, thanks for the content. Subscribed.

One of the things that I have always added to a table saw to improve safety is an outfeed table. It may not be necessary on small pieces, but, ripping a long heavy board, or panel, without one leaves you pressing hard on the tail to prevent lift at the end of the cut. Pressing almost straight down so hard while your hand is near the blade, even with a push stick, or other device, is a recipe for disaster. Another thing that you didn't mention, never stand directly in line behind the cut. A brain is the best safety device that you can have on a table saw

In the UK and most of Europe you should NEVER operate a circular saw bench without a riving knife fitted to within 8mm of the blade and a guard must always be fitted and placed as near as practical to the work. Likewise when ripping solid timber the fence should never go past the gullet of the blade at bench level. I agree that you do get a better cut with the blade up high, really not too much of a problem if it is sufficiently guarded, generally though the advice is to set the blade low. We also say your hand should be a minimum of 300mm away from the blade so most of the sticks or grippers that are in use in the US would be illegal here in the UK. People, statistically this is the most dangerous piece of equipment in a wood shop keep the guard and riving knife fitted at all times and use a push stick of at least 350mm long and only use it for ripping and occasional crosscuts, there is far better equipment to cut grooves, rebates etc available. I do appreciate that different countries have different rules and what I have said will upset some but I say it with safety in mind.

I was up a 3/8 inch, I'm 62 used a table table since high school. We recently moved, and in the move I threw out all scraps of wood, including my two push stick/guides, since I sold my old table saw for the move. I bought a nice new to me Porter Cable, foldable with wheels and took OFF the two safety guides. I was running some oak through trimming it down to 1/2 inch thick, with the plastic guide that came with the saw and no second outside guide. Uh oh! I got confused, reached OVER... That was two months ago and a trip to the ER with 11 stiches I still have trauma writing here about it. I put a 1 1/2" long x 3/8" dado in my thumb! The thumb is looking much better now, thought the nerves are still trying to heal across. I have since reinstalled the safety kick back and plastic cover. But I lack confidence in my judgement, to use the saw...I have some 2 x 6s I need to take down to 2x4, but I have surfing the net, to make some smart push sticks/ guides. Time to "get back on the horse"

I bought this same table saw new 45 years ago & still use it. Have used it with dado and shaper blade too. It's been a great saw. Just made a sled for it and still love it with original fence and miter. Would love to see a good way to put a riving knife on it. I junked the guard on it the first 6 months I had it. Very cumbersome to use. I am like you and run my blade a little high so the work does not get on top of it. I always like seeing how people improve this Craftsman gem. Keep them coming. Thanks.