Have I already seen this vid before you loaded this🤔😁Yes!😮 guess you reloaded this?

How about those Slapz Audio Amplifer

Also looks a whole lot like my CAB-2K

What d rocc 2k? Must be sold out.

You say this is a clone of the Skar... it may well be true, but since you are unaware of who Double Rock is... I'll share that I have met with, emailed, and had lengthy conversations at CES2020 with their factory reps from China. They make a LOT of products for car audio. I have a DR amp on my shelf from the 2020 CES, and several 12" subwoofers of various surround and motor types. It might be worth considering that Skar could be manufactured by DR. I know at least one other brand for certain that is.... a very well known brand that's been around longer than Skar.

I forgot to mention the extra glue used on the DR

Hey do you repair ads amps?

I'd spend the 170 on this if I was in the market for an amp. Handled all the tests, looks good on the outside with no whack ratings, and internals look decent. Very nice!

@@jamms992 I have repaired a few ADS Power Plates in the past but I do not repair them as standard business due to the modules.

@@zackbalins658 I agree 100%

Sometimes the name comes with better warranty claims and customer service so it rrally depends. On an expensive amp, id rather spend even more amd get a better name brand

@@derekgardin1512 Name only important for showing off and competitions - been there and done that. But if warranty is important, get the Amazon warranty that is 2 years for $16 or 3 years for $22

The best way it could've been said!

@@carrickdubya4765 riiiiight... i also remember the 90s, and there were more knockoff BS puffing twice before they ran out of breath. unless by showing off you mean it actually plays consistently while you're driving so other people can hear it. you can MAKE some brilliant pieces... you can buy a lot of dog-ass level equipment that only works till they close shop.

You're right. I remember back in the day, some Pyramid amps were made by Precision Power.

Bro. Phoenix Gold was good. You get what you pay for. I have a lot of old school Phoenix Gold. I’d break out my M44 and M100 before I bought any of those junk amps. I don’t care how loud it is.

They were the best tho

Linear Power as well.

They had really good quality parts br and the sound quality was sent t non on the phoenix gold... old skool every time' that crossed all bridges needed to get them t be that God nw ts all about penny-pinching and n one has to try anymore and well they where good times to be alive... Point being the rnd has already been done today and you pad for that back n the day but you for sure got what you paid for and love the vid Big D. 🔉

​@@AshyLarryTMyep, absolutely 💯 agree 👍

Yep agreed, I sell Teampie amps and I have to stress that with the 5500 and 7500. Most people buying them know better but there's always someone.

I also like how Big D explains basic speaker wiring and Ohm load during the tests. This is new. 👍🏻👍🏻

Definitely a handy thing to show!

Yeah I agree it's often heavily overlooked in car audio even if the efficiency was good or even great a 2000 watt amp is definitely pulling enough current that there isn't really no stock systems electrical charging system is equipped to handle such a load. Shit yer talkin 200 amps possibly up to that there's nothing no charging systems that'll be putting out that, plus all the other expected loads and draws from the system

@@buckalvinpossumweight6252 Right! I'm running 1800 now on my stock system and the only reason it works is because I don't hammer on it very often. I'm planning on upgrading to a second battery. Already did the big 3 and both my amps are pretty efficient, Kenwood 6006 dsp and a jp8 wired to one ohm. Just pushing 2 12's. I watch my voltage and I've never gotten lower than 12.6 but I'd love to be running 13.8 constant .

100% agree. But on the flip side, some of these companies start getting recognition, then they jack their pricing up after they build their "brand".

​@@johnd5542 like with soundqubed old hdc subs, those where $300 for 1 12, now the hdx that replaced it is $100 more.but their recones and stuff had been really fast, and all questions i have they always answered. I turned one hdc 12 into an hdx 15 mainly due to how easy they make it for you

lol, NEVER!

Know where you're coming from, so if I may: a little trick is to go "Non big name brand" marine equipment. Because all marine audio equipment is certified, even the no name brands make marine audio on par with the big guys. I wouldn't purchase a Rockville car audio amp, but have bought a couple of their marine amps and installed for friends (each time paired with Polk DB+ marine speakers), and I can tell you the performance and sound quality was surprisingly good. Even really good. And to compensate for the no name brand intentionally run each amp at 50% on the gain so as to not "overtax" them. But that has been my secret to saving money and being able to afford aftermarket car audio for the last 25 years, while still having a decent product. Just understand the no name brand of marine amplifiers do a good job driving regular speakers, but not speakers "and" a subwoofer with the same amp. I did try that initially (6 channel amp) but just not enough power for regular speakers and a subwoofer. If you want a subwoofer, then a seperate monoblock will be needed. If you match the power (wattage) well to the speakers you can get plenty of good sound with say 50-60 watts per channel. I think some of these systems I see with thousands of watts are cool if you can afford them, but also at the same time a little "over the top" for car stereos if you are not doing competitions etc. (PS. The Polk DB+ series, are some of the best speakers you can get regardless of price (usually $100 pair for coaxial) and have purchased and can say they impress; and I've been hearing good stuff about Recoil making some good speakers for the price too these days for speakers under the $100 mark.) So good luck and hope you can get ya a nice car stereo system soon if ya already haven't. One of the biggest crimes for car manufacturers is how bad car OEM systems still are these days! (Another option if you have the time effort and "know how" is if you have a "Pull and Pay" car parts lot nearby, is to go and find a car with a quality stereo that still has speakers in it and pull them yourself. You can usually tell if speakers are gonna work or not by their appearance. And given the price charged for these "used" speakers even if one doesn't happen to work, you'd be out of more time and effort than money. Most places charge only $10-20 per speaker regardless of brand or quality. Find a Mercedes or Lexus a high end luxury vehicle that has an upgraded factory system. Just remember even with the upgraded systems OEM stereo speakers rarely exceed 30-40 watts RMS. The in-dash units though will only work by brand. Those you'll still have to pick up aftermarket that have "universal" application. ) Also 1 "good" 8" or 10" sub can be fine for a car stereo, even better sounding than two cheap subwoofers. Just make sure whatever sub you get gets down close to that magical 20 Hz frequency. And no it doesn't take an 18" inch sub to get that low. It's about the build quality of the sub and sub box that enables frequencies in the 20-30 Hz range. However, Once you go past 1 subwoofer, the price really increases on a car stereo these days regretfully. Even using a "home" stereo sub is fine as long as you have an amp that will give you the necessary power to drive it. For an 8 ohm home sub, you'll need twice the power/watts from a 4 ohm amp remember. Home audio and car audio are little different. That's why I recommend marine audio, it is built different and more durable)) take care and all the best!

​@@johannjohann6523 Well said yo !! 🙏😇👌

It's boring. They ALL sound exactly the same. He doesn't even use a SPL meter to compare.

@@johncoops6897 it's also an endurance test to check the thermals.

@@calvinevans8305 - not really, since it only averages about 1/10th the max power when playing music. Also, he hardly even tests or shows thermal anyway 🙄

@@johncoops6897 it's a good practical test demonstrating performance and cooling efficiency.

@@calvinevans8305 - it doesn't test either of those things. Look at the Power meter in the botton left corner of the screen, see the averaged power? All amplifiers can make speakers move, there is no specific point to the test aside from adding a bit of music to the video.

I agree.. In 92 i ran a autotek 90w amp priced at $300 bucks (over 3 bucks per watt!! Smh) . Pure power though, and bridged to a 1 ohm load it pushed my 1st car system. Two 10in.subs in a truck box I got for Christmas. Never looked at the branding though..in Ajo, AZ only Good Ole Radio Shack was the only stereo joint in town, so I'm assuming they were some realistic 10s maybe. Added a Alpine tape deck, and an eq booster, all in my 77 Chevy Malibu. I had the slanted box on the back underneath my back window, where the by 9s cutout holes are. About a couple years I bumped without anyone robbing my setup. I was called big D back then, but took it begrudgingly although 6ft4, 320lbs Fit the bill regardless of how I took it! Small towns in Southern Arizona.. i got many props for my 1st installment, alot of too short, 2 live crew, and NWA fed the setup nicely.. lol miss them daze, big D wiz!!!

Denali what? Denali isn't a vehicle, its a trim level.

He shares well wif me

Become a paid subscriber to help him pay for an audio precision.

I'd definitely would like to see a damping factor video from Big D.

Good point I researched a lot of amps for damping factor before I bought one. My B2 audio has a damping factor 400. Most sub amps have a factor of 80 , 100, or 200

All my Tru technology Amps have a DF at 300 which is more than enough but unless you are running IB, DF really doesn't matter which is why most companies don't post it and the few that do actually post at what ohm its rated at...but old school cats are still stuck on it because it did matter back in the 90s

@BENNYBLANCO14_916 Well, at 51yo having competed back in the day in IASCA and USAC, I'm definitely what you call Old School. LoL! Yes, DF is definitely a concern if running Isobaric, but also in Folded Horns along with certain types of 6th and 8th Order...8th Order being what I'm currently working on which is why I posed the topic. I've haven't researched it, but I would imagine the DF is also critical in a T-Line setup when utilizing a small woofer(s), but I can't say definitively that being the case. Back in the day, we ran expensive Class A and Class A/B in which DF played a major factor. I wish we had these cheap $-to-watt Class D amps back then. 2000 watts in those days would cost you well into the thousands for a decent brand...of which there were VERY few. Hell, I paid in upwards of $500 for my 50 watts amps back then...Orion HCCA 225s...let alone my HCCA 250s. So, yeah, I'm definitely Old School. LoL!

i saw a sticker just like that on "your moms" bra!!😂😂😂🎉🎉❤🎉❤🎉❤ sorry bro!! just joking! you walked right into it!!

Thanks for the suggestion

Perhaps, Perhaps not. That will be determined by how good the protective circuitry is on this clone. On the skar, it's quite good such that when one or two out of transistors fail, the protection circuitry is fast enough to prevent the power supply from burning down. I'd be willing to bet this clone does not have the same.

Meh, I blew 2 RP series that were running around 60% rated power (4 channel amps running my mids and highs) when I tried to warranty them they were "out of stock" then discontinued. For back ground I have a JS 320 alt and 3 agms. So voltage drop was not an issue. Swapped to Taraamps smart 3 (had SK 2500 still working) and threw the ts400/4 minis on my highs since I couldn't get my RPs replaced. The taramps been running strong for over 2 yrs now. I had a really bad experience with Skar CS, I'll never run them again.

@@Blakek. I'll buy the blown skars if you want to sell

@@steve390gold they went straight in the trash the second warranty wasn't honored.

@blake k. I figured, but if you hear of anyone else blowing up their amps (any amps really) I'll buy em! I love repairing amps and prefer to buy them so there's zero pressure to get them finished by a certain date....lol

Thanks for the suggestion

They were low stock when I posted

@@wal Yes sir! Thank you!

I believe it’s the D4S amplifiers. Shop4Bass.com

Thanks for replying. Imagine grab some merch!

Agree

3/0 = 000 will be fine

Get the Soundqubed S1-2250.1 I have 2 of them strapped at 1ohms half ohms per amp and it handles. I also once had them strapped to half ohms .25ohms per amp and it also handles!! I got 2 18" Resilient Sounds Platinum subwoofers ✔️it out.

Denali what? Denali is an interior and exterior trim level not a vehicle.

Nothing odd about the text being upside down.

Skar 6x9s in the back deck of my sons civic completely warped- I asked if they would replace and they told me in was 1month past their warranty. I showed them dated pics of the install being 5months after purchase but they didnt care. Unfortunately, I had already recommended Skar to quite a few friends, family and co-workers, but I havent purchased any other skar product since...

It did good.

Not a Skar fan, but installer/user error is usually the problem with these brands. Inconsistent wiring from amp to sub. Had to clean up ‘professional’ installation a couple times.

They are all made at the same shit house, so name means absolutely nothing at end of day.

Skar is overpriced?! Wow.

i find u everywhere uwu

@@rayproductionsbackupchanne3862 That is because I am everywhere.

Thanks for the suggestion

I was thinking the same thing

Yeah man bummer!

Kenwood, good, fire,bad!!!

Why would you get this amp from America? You're considerably closer to china than we are, why not order direct?

@@superpossum78 - the guy obviously doesn't have main electricity, let alone internet to order from overseas.

@@johncoops6897 obviously. I guess he's youtubing via smoke signal and crystal ball

I think they dream it and then when they wake up theyGoogle it.. Wallaa

His job is literally just to crawl the internet looking for new amps? It's not very hard when that's your sole profession.

🤣

🤣👍

The AAK8000.1D is a great amp and does make rated power for sure but as the other guy said, you need really REALLY GOOD electrical. Higher output alternator, second battery or bank and good grounds. Use 0 gauge OFC wire only when running that much power. Id probably have at least 2 runs of 0 gauge running that level of power. Make sure your mids and highs can keep up too or itll sound like poop 💩

Thanks for the suggestion

​@@derekgardin1512 thank you for the info, I've been a basshead since the 80's and I'm grateful for all the information I found in my research during the past years growing up. I'm upgrading my system (electrical and sound)and I wanted to see the numbers on the amp. Done all the electrical so I think I'm covered 🙂 thank you once again and God bless you

For the $$ you'd think so!

It’s the silk screening done wrong

both dogshit...no bass below 35hz!! lame, lame , lame...😢 get power acoustic 10000 for $200, beast mode to 5FN hz!!

Coming soon…

🧐

Valid point and I agree

Maybe, but I didn't do it for them...I did it for you guys