Loads of great advice, thank you. Consistently the best building videos on KZfaq

Lovely job. I’m glad it’s not just me that got excited with the thickness of them joists and room for fixings!

Loving watching the ideas that are going into this lovely house 🏠👌🏼🧱👍🏼

The house is going to look stunning when it is all done, I hope we will get a tour of the finished project!

Damn wish i was young again ,to be Robins apprentice.

Robin your work is stunning. Your tips and tricks are superb. Please keep the updates coming.

Hi Robin, I always install my ceilings on resonance bars using 15mm soundbloc (light blue) I bought myself a plasterboard lift a few years ago and was amazed at how cheap it was (about £120) this makes life really easy especially with coved ceilings. I use standard drywall adhesive to wet shim on stud walls, just use a few loose screws for support whilst the adhesive goes off, then screw up as normal. I use the British Gypsum screws as you don't get any metal splinters off of them (top tip 👍) I always use paper tape on my joints now as this is what BG recommended & never get the fine cracks you get with scrim tape & it's a lot cheaper. You're really cracking on now , what a great feeling when you start to see the fruits of your labours. Regards Tim

A true craftsman who enjoys what he does!!!! Thanks!!

Love watching all robins tips and only wish I could have been an apprentice with a guy like him, keep up the great work

Good job Robin as usual. We use the stud adhesive in Australia. It pulls the board in as it dries so it is recommended not to screw anywhere near the dab of adhesive.

Brilliant job as usual Robin. thanks for all the top tips too. Take care buddy.. Dave...

Hi Robin and Roger, I have really enjoyed your videos. As an avid DIYer, I have learnt alot. so thank you! keep up the great work. Recently taken on a big project at home, soundproofing the ceiling. We live in a flat in an old house and I was amazed to see literally no insulation above, although our neighbours are considerate, it was like being inside a snare drum. Anyway I ripped the old plasterboard down and fitted rockwool sound insulation between the joists, then a sound isolating clip and track system, decoupling the plasterboard from the joists. Then.. 2 layers of 12.5 gyproc with Intumescent acoustic sealant between the sheets, which helps with the vibrations coming from above. The Americans suggest a product called green glue, which is basicly the same thing. Anyway, 2 months later im finished, so happy with the result.

Amazing to look at you guys work. It's like a ballet when everything is in sync and you complete each other's moves.

Love the idea of the different heights, we’re planning our own extension at the moment and your videos are a brilliant help for DIY’ers great stuff. Can’t wait to see the finished capel build!!

Looks awesome, Robin 👍

So many answers to questions I hadn't thought of. Cheers for a great lesson once again Robin.👍

It so nice seeing a perfectionist at work

Very good quality of workmanship.

Great video.i learn something new in every video.🔨

Really enjoyed this series

Last time I did the soundproof plasterboard we used drywall foam adhesive as well as the screws every 6inches and it definitely helped grab the plasterboard and we just wanted belt and braces for peace of mind

Absolutely fantastic 👍

You have a very tidy site. Exactly what we like to see 👍🏻

We are starting our plaster boarding ceilings this weekend I’m so excited 😆

Love watching your videos. I see you have a drywall joint at the corner of a doorway (11:32 on your video). I was always taught this can potentially be an area of movement (as house settles) and a crack can easily form at this joint. I've seen this crack on many older homes when we do a remodel. We move the joint further over the door itself. Often right in the middle. It's not a code requirement. Just another line of prevention. Keep the great videos coming.

Robin - love your video's. Gluing plaster sheets to walls and ceilings in Australia before screwing - we use "cornice cement " just a dollop on the timber before the sheet is installed - it works a treat. Cheers.

Hey in NewZealand we use a 13mm board on the ceilings. Glued at 200,400,800,1000mm. Then screwed at edges and middle. All to the products specifications it's called gib board here Cheers

Makes such a difference once the plaster board goes up. Robin I would have thought you might be tempted to use a chalk line so all the screws line up 😉 Worst thing is spending the evening getting all the tiny black metal splinters out your fingers from the singles!

You do a good service Robin 👍 I looked into the cost of those eco joists for a job, they are a lot more expensive but like you said, nice and wide for PB fixing and great for getting services through with ease. When the next owners come along and want to muck around, any spark/plumber will smile a bit when they reveal the joists I reckon. I saw a place last month that had the dropped perimeter ceiling in a room, good chance for discrete lighting and I reckon made it a bit cosier (Living Room). Dim's were 2185 floor to ceiling around perimeter and 2355 floor to main ceiling, perimeter was 635mm wide. Keep up the good work 👍

I'm from Oz and they use Acrylic stud adhesive, to supplement the fixing of wall and ceiling sheets, screw fix in pairs most time on center of sheet and stitch screwed along joints.Usually screws fixed in alternate spots to glue sites.

We also use the Dot & Dab glue here in Australia Robin. The Extra thick Board is great, I have only ever used 13mm Board. Great Job

When I re plastered my parkhome I used grab adhesive and like you I used foil backed 15m P/Board and I also used a piece of kit I bought from Canada which was a type of Stanley knife with a built in tape measure and that was a game changer it took the guess work out and every board was a perfect fit as always thanks to everyone both sides of the camera for making another excellent production and Happy New Year wishing you health, wealth & happiness. John Boughton aka The Audiostud

Belt and braces. It’s the motto for this KZfaq channel 😆👌🏽

I’ve seen people use ‘tytan drywall pro’ in videos from USA, I think it’s basically foam if I remember and they use it in higher end jobs and for additional shear strength. I’ve used expanding foam when I’ve had to board over lath and plaster to try reduce screw pops, I use a pump up spray bottle to damp everything down first

I like the Easi-joist bench/hop-up

Cordless drywall routers are the mutt's nuts.

Hi mate, top work as always! What board cutter are you using? I needs new one. Cheers

It's always good practice to support the 2.4 metre lengths of the plasterboard, irrespective of the plasterboard thickness or joist spacing.

In New Zealand we screw are ceiling plasterboard to rondo battens (metal rails that run perpindicular to the trusses) and use plasterboard branded glue.

Nice video, in New Zealand we always use glue, and generally use 13mm on the ceilings and 10mm on the wall.

What do you use for your belt set up? I can never get mine quite right. Keep the vids coming👍

good job cheers champ

Been building for 32 years since I was 18. Currently doing a double storey extension with a cantilever 1st floor. Doing the boarding tomorrow. Strange thing is we have the same tools. Festool drywall gun and the estwing weight forward framing hammer. They don’t sell that anymore so look after it! Mines 15 years old!! Good job btw.

If Robin Clevett did Robin Clevett's They would probably be the best in the world!

Yep we use plaster board glue and screws possibly due to the humidity extreme fluctuations. Our biuilders pine is also pretty garbage so screws can start to pop out over time.

in New Zealand we generally use 13mm plasterboard for ceilings and its all glued with minimal screws, 4 screws in centre of ceiling baterns On the walls its literrally juts screwed around perimeter and 1 through the middle.

Wow this is cool to see how Uk does it, Australia is different as. We use stud adhesive thus reducing the amount of screws needed. But interesting to see this

I have used insta stick once when I had to put a plasterboard up on my own, sprayed the bottom of joists then offered the board up to it, only a thin layer, held it in place for a couple of minutes, jumped down and then screwed it, it worked for what I needed that day but wouldn't recommend using it without screws

What a pro.

Robin, cracking build quality as we have come to expect from you, I can't wait to see the finished item. I wish you had a whole series of stop motion videos of the work being done. Anyway where did you get your big yellow 90 degree edge from? looks really useful. Cheers Chris.

in Australia we use very little screw but have the adhesive behind which is commonly called stud adhesive ., less screw means less flushing to do , less sanding less everything you save on time in the end .

Another great video Rob! What was your main reason for opting for tape and joint as opposed to fulll skim? Was it simply cost?

Truly excellent work. Is this your house?

Building like a yank Robin 👍

Hey bud, do you prefer tape and joining plaster board than getting it fully plastered? Me personally thought having it plastered gives it strength and better wear, as if you just plasterboard it, its weaker. What's your thoughts?

That adhesive is for soundproofing. Green glue soundproofing adhesive. Maxkill on KZfaq use it in their videos. Australian dryliners. They use internal metal corner beads as well. Interesting how different drylining is down there.

Great idea with the borders and 15mm boards. You've inspired me to border around my living room and the walk way between the front door and living room door. Really need to know if instead of 3", is it 2x2" you used plus 15mm thickness of board? If yes, it'll be more like 65mm border?

I love the idea of those routers but do you find you catch any cables and it's mainly for stud?? Be really handy for boards that have multiple sockets

We use a blue acrylic adhesive in Australia Robin.

The adhesive is a water based glue, when it drys it actually pulls the board. Incidentally, when screwing the butts (board ends) on trusses or narrow joists you wait untill the butt is closed then screw both ends. We use 10mm board @ 600 centres. Also another trick os tou dont have to join then on a joist, you can join them inbetween with pieces of timbers. This way wjen the house moves the joint wont crack

I lived and worked in Australia and their methods of gyprocking are streets ahead of the UK.. Tape and joint is the norm. They use stud adhesive so you only need 4~6 screws per joist/stud and they use up to 4.8m long by 1350mm wide boards so minimising joints etc.. Fast and very efficient process, cheers.

Hilti collated screw gun is the best

I've had some inspectors want to inspect after sheetrock and before plaster to verify that you have screwed off the sheets correctly.

We use adhesives in Australia. It’s an acrylic adhesive, normally blue in colour.

Thanks for a great video, very helpful. What length screws do you use with the collated screw driver?

Interesting to see the VCL only on some of the room, i'm never sure if BCO want a VCL on an entire kitchen envelope or just the external side.

What's the longest span on those pozi-joists you're using, are any of the internal walls structural to support them?

Eco Joist....Press web joists, only a name but these are the best for cable and pipe runs,and also no regs

We generally use Fermacell in Denmark and staple the boards in place.

I once seen on a Scottish tv programme the guy putting a line on normal silicone onto the joists before putting up the plasterboard then screwing it, apart from that only ever just screws.

Just looked on Axminster 270

Couple of questions. 1.Did you say you require noggins if you use 12mm boards but not with 15mm? Is this the same for 400 and 600 centres? 2.Is that foil back the moisture barrier instead of tacking a sheet up? 3.Do you run perimeter round each room?

Hi Robin, The screwdriver from Festool is indeed a time saver ! But do you need the festool screws with the drywall screwdriver ? I used the 35mm in magazine-loaded, from Festool, and it worked great! Now I need 45mm screws and was wondering if any brand would fit with this amazing tool. Regards, Nicolas

We use glue and screw here in NZ. The advice I was given was not to glue where you screw as the glue can contract pushing the screws proud of the surface.

you should show people how to do it with a 'deadman and/or brackets.

Hi Robin and Skill Builder Im a carpenter apprentice from Denmark. I have been told that it's very important that only one vapor barrier are mounted so moisture doesn't get caught between them and create rottenness. Are the rules different where you are building? Anyway thanks for all the good videos, and keep them coming :)

What is that tool being used in the last 10 seconds of the video to fill/flatten the plaster between two sheets?

At 0:10. I'm curious about the noggins and why they are lined up and why not staggered so the fixing comes in to the end of each noggin as opposed side nailing them? Noticed this in other videos but meant to ask.

Great looking hang. I was wondering though, is there a particular reason you hung the wall plasterboards vertically? I do them horizontally as it greatly reduces the number of joints I have to tape and mud. Just curious.

Standards where we work say that ceiling still needs to be dwanged at all the joints even with 15mm boards unless the centres are 400mm or less . We have the dwang the perimeter all the time regardless

Belt and braces, heard that somewhere else. 👍

What brand of tool is the black and green square you used to slide along the board when cutting?

Roger, how do you find the Festool collated gun ? I'm a big Festool fan and use a lot of the gear so would assume its good but drywall guns can be a law unto themselves. i'd be interested to know how you get on with it. Does it spin out much ? Screw jams ? Battery life ? Happy with the 4500 speed ? Any other comments. Cheers mate. Always makes me chuckle when I hear "board lifter", childish I know.

Another great vid mate. Have you got any info on the PB cutter you used at around 9.32 just before someone farted at 9.36 lol sorry couldn't help but hear that, nearly blew my speakers.

Hi Robin get yourself a board lifter horizontal 1 think Axminster do 1 about 350 or refinasaves you a mile of effort and time especially on 15mm you can even do on your own

What is that drywall square that the knife locks in when hes cutting the board?

Could you please cover vapour barriers it's a confusing topic and one I cannot decide on as do not want mould etc. Thanks

great video, what height is that ceiling, is it higher than normal?

Hi, is there any technical reason why you haven’t added extra insulation above the plaster board? Cheers great content 👍

The adhesive is used over here Robin. It's an acrylic based product. Personally I think it is a waste of time because you have to screw the boards any way so they aren't going any where. Particularly annoying if you are doing a Reno because you have to strip it off the studs and joists etc before you can reboard them again. Cheers

Lovely job. I always nog out ceilings using 12.5mm perimeter board edge to edge. See what you mean with the eco joists though. Also I do alot of loft conversions and in skeiling situations where you are fixing through 50mm PIR. I always foam the plasterboard perimeter with I find prevents movement on joints. Keep up the good work. Tom

I made the classic mistake(s) cutting plasterboard. (1) score it properly, that way it breaks with a neater line. (2) when slicing the other side on a long board, cut about 2ft at a time and step along. That way the knife is less likely run into the board face. I love those beams 100mm is a fantastic width to board on to.

Mine won't look like that!

I’ve never seen that foil backing here in the states, is that standard in the UK?

Tapered edge board, and countersunk screws so when filled will be flush finish, BUT what happens on corners and what happens on cut to cut edges are these taped and filled over flush?

Hi robin tanx for the upload,what size screw do you recommend for 12.5mm plasterboard?

I thought you said no straight joints when installing the plaster boards?

I used to use the estwing "weight forward" hamer, was using it with a bolster and as my work mate struck the chisel a shard of the hammer face chipped off and embedded in his shin. I then used it to finish off the chiseling and another shard flew off end buried into my knuckle on the index finger. Went to A&E. The doc had a feel with his fingers to find position in my finger, he said he could not feel anything there and asked if I was sure something penetrated my finger...I then placed a magnet on my knuckle and it held there, doc was amazed by this.....pulled out the metal shard, stitched me up and I was on my way. The doc asked to keep the piece to show students he trains x ray is always best to be on safe side. I have binned that now and use the original style of estwing.....thought I'd mention it, and would definatly say safety goggles/ glasses are a must at minimum 👍

What was used to knife all the board? Not the t square the other one when knifing it long ways

can i do a day's work experience with you guys?