We need a video about interior wall insulation.

I had some 'we know our rights' tenants who were complaining of mold. Id never had an issue with it in 20 years but they had been on the internet and told me i had to fit trickle vents and this n that. I fitted the vents n did this n that and they still complained of mold so i did a full inspection 1 day when they went out banging on peoples doors and lo and behold, hand washed sopping wet laundry on every radiator and every vent they demanded was shut.... AND SELOTAPED OVER! I got rid.

Have to say , as the owner of an approved and accredited insulation contracting company, and wait for it... an approved an accredited damp proofing company, who mostly rectifies the sub-standard installations carried to by other companies, Roger knows his stuff and is talking absolute sense.

Roger,, I would like to say, you ought to be very proud of your presence on KZfaq, especially for your consideration of the masses and to educate in the way you do. God be with you my friend,,👍

Half rant half the best lecture available anywhere.

No fancy speeches, just plain rant. Roger is king when it comes to the soapbox. Knows his subject, back to front and is not susceptible to hype from any reputable organisation. He is no "fly by night" and is there for the long haul.

You are an absolute credit to the building industry Roger. Coming from a fully qualified sparky btw.

brother you don't know how many times i have tried to explain all these to house owners when they call me to fix them problems , explain again and again to make them realise what problem they have and is the best solution for their problem . and they always anded up make half measures like just simply repair and paint the wall . only to get called again after 4-5 months and get yelled becase the problem shown again and i didn't do a proper job . And after they finaly have realise that they need to do properly they realise that they have spend more money with those half measures instat of doing the right job at first place . A new subscriber from Greece ! You have a great channel sir !

My bungalow was a self build 40 years ago, we lived in a caravan on site, every night after the brickies had finished I went around with a torch and knocked off any mortar on the wall ties. The blown fibre was installed from the inside before the internal walls were plastered. Never had a damp problem in all this time. Roger is my "go to" for any info regarding buildings.

As a former foreman with a national roofing and cladding company,many times we took coping/tabling stones off flat roofs ie high sports halls/ gyms.only to shine a torch down the cavity to find a couple of feet of cavity insulation at the bottom of a 15m high wall.

Many years ago someone I worked with had visits from tenacious cavity-wall-insulation salesmen. Eventually he let one in and let him do his speil, and when the order forms had been filled in and the salesman was proffering his pen for signature, my former colleague said: "just one last question: how do you get the old stuff out?"

I ❤️ your videos. Not only because you turned ranting into an art, but also because most of the time you’re spot on. Never stop ranting ! 🙋‍♀️

It took thousands of years to invent a cavity wall . And it only took a short time to decide to fill them. Im an electrician and I see loads of houses that have damp problems after having cavities filled. Also in the old days it was common practice to drop cables down the cavities. Guess what the polystyrene installation balls attack the cables . No one ever thinks of that. I also think houses with to much insulation are not healthy to live in. Hence my 1960s house will never have cavity wall insulation as long as I live in it .

One of my friends bought a large bungalow about ten years ago, he bought in in the summer and when winter arrived so did the damp. This was the theme for the next few years and right from the start i told him that the cause was the cavity insulation. He wasn't having it and started using dehumidifiers which are very costly to run. The main thing I noticed when he first showed me the damp spots starting to appear was that in this huge 4 bedroom bungalow there's not a single air brick. I told him straight away that with no ventilation you get condensation which of course causes damp. About 3 years ago he finally relented and let me install some air bricks, we treated the damp that was already there and after 2 winters it hasn't returned. As everyone commenting on here knows, if cavity insulation is retro fitted good ventilation is a must, it was the same with my parents bungalow, built in 1973 with no insulation, retro fitted in 1979, damp by 1980, air bricks fitted in 1981 and no damp since. My father was a master builder and although he's dead now he always maintained that the sole purpose of cavities was to allow an air flow thus helping to prevent the spread of damp caused by modern living, central heating, washing machines etc. When he first started in the building trade a lot of houses were still built with solid 9 inch walls and these old places didn’t suffer with damp until people started fitted plastic double glazed windows and insulating roofs and lofts. I'm sure that my dad wasn't the only builder to know this but trying to convince people that ventilation is important is often almost impossible. In the course of my job i have to visit a lot of rental properties and I'm always finding damp in kitchens and bathrooms the common denominator being that they never open the windows.

I remember a time when the building inspector would check the cavities of new houses being built, to check there was no mortar on the brick ties. They wanted the cavity perfectly clear. Now we have to fill it up. Over the years, regulations are constantly changing, and not always for the better.

Spot on regarding the grants system boom and bust. As a cavity wall insulation contractor, we have seen this time and again over the years.

I learned more in 13 minutes than in weeks trying to research it on my own. I feel a lot more comfortable with the idea (and risks) of CWI

As a chartered surveyor who used to work for a national lender I have to say the advice on blocked cavities at the base of the wall is spot on, it’s much more common than people assume. The other common problem is where previous owners have put patios etc. in & raised the ground levels thereby bridging the damp proof course. And then you get the odd numpty, like the one I encountered who had a 4 ft pile of sand heaped against the side wall of his 115 year old solid brick house (because he may want to build a shed base at some time). Needless to say the wall was very damp - & the profile of the limits of the dampness precisely matched the profile of the sand pile, but about 1 meter higher…..odd that…😳😱

I agree with cavity wall insulation EXCEPT in those exposed walls facing south or southwest. In 1978 we purchased a detached house built of an attractive sandstock brick which happened to have a huge gable wall facing south. I gave it no thought when a blown Rockwool cavity wall insulation was offered and accepted in 1984. That winter damp patches appeared through the decoration on both floors of that particular wall which was not sheltered by the neighbouring property. Examination showed that all patches corresponded to the position of the galvanised twist drop wall ties. Foolishly, I soaked the brickwork with a white spirit based silicone product sold for the purpose although subsequent examination of extracted brickwork showed it to be useless at preventing the powerful transfer of wind-driven rain through the porous structure,and additionally effective at preventing the subsequent drying out of the bricks. I ended up removing a large triangular section of external brickwork as well as blockwork in the loft, and with my drain rods removing all of the fibre insulation from that particular wall.(I obviously don’t recommend anyone else does this unless he/she understands the load distribution in brickwork!!). This solved the problem entirely and I was able to subsequently sell the property with a clear conscience. Some years later, my next door neighbour,who had suffered from the same problem on the same wall asked me to remove his insulation in the same fashion with the same positive outcome. Hence my advice to all; don’t retrospectively fill the cavity of all south/southwesterly facing wall. Malcolm Collins, Collins Builders.

Nice educational video like usual. It makes a nice change to have a professional give the facts about the pros and cons without holding their hand out. Too many KZfaqrs take a running guess at educational videos and base their opinions on hearsay and urban legends rather than work & experience. Keep up the good work. (Qualified plumber since 1988)

Absolutely great and spotless man. Speaking human language, clearly and honestly. Makes the subject so interesting. Can't wait to see more of your videos. Thank you so much. Boris.

Always talks sense this bloke - From his understanding and linking of seemingly unrelated issues in buildings to explain problems, right through to his analysis of salesman mentality - Love it

In Sweden we almost always use rockwool insulation, i think its the best and easiest to work with. Love this video, always good to hear this stuff to keep my head fresh so i can do my job right

You Sir are a Star ! We recently had new windows installed and I was watching without interfering the lads work. I noticed all this white fluff in the cavity and HORROR took over me ! I touched some of it and and it was dry as a bone. All the work was completed yet this fluff I saw was still niggling a me, until now. Cheers buddy, one less thing to worry about ! 😎😁

This was right on the ball, very informative. I have a semi detached house and had damp stains lowdown on the inside walls. After some research decided to vacuum all the dirt and cement out. The wall was already insulated, so in order for the insulation not to slide down, I cut strips of plastic fencing to pull through the cavity right under the insulation. Will have the outside wall sprayed so to keep rainwater out.

Thank you - great, informative video. My biggest take-away here is the importance of keeping the house well ventilated.

How refreshing, someone who knows his stuff and takes the time to make an honest vid.

I nothing else, I love your super-practical take on government subsidies for these kinds of things, and how they're so often counter-productive.

We have Cavity wall insulation….and a damp problem on the inside of our exterior walls at the top one foot or so, ruining the decor. I think it must be due to uncapped cavities…so thanks for the info Roger👍. On the plus side…our house is always warm…even without heating on!

The people that did our house prior to us owning it, sealed all the air bricks - the result is high humidity in the house with poor ventilation. I’ve since started putting in new vents through the walls which helps enormously. You need fresh air in homes. Particularly as we are coastal.

in the late 1960s i got interested in insulation, foil had been used in the USA and Canada, before the war. interstitial condensation, had been a problem, and at over hanging roofs they needed ice dams, your video has spurred me to refresh my memory on the subject, your video is very good

Incredibly well said! Surveyors are often lazy nowadays. Grants are given for things that don't need it at all. What we do need, is knowledge like this being shared as much as possible. Please teach more people!

Good explanation thanks. My perents had a 1957 built semi. Dry as a bone till they had foam injected. Within a year rising damp on every wall, adjoining and exretnal. The company (Big yellow sea shell ) didn't want to know.

Had it blown In twenty years ago on a grant scheme and it made a dramatic difference. We've never had any adverse issues 🙄

We got the injected foam insulation done a good few years back and the installers were terrible. When they got near the top of the house, I could hear them not drilling all the way through. Long story short, they had just made marks that they then pointed up, so they didnt have to fill the last meter or so of wall. I removed one of the air vents as I noticed it hadn't been siliconed up and used a mirror and flashlight to look into the cavity and it was bare for a meter or so all the way along. After getting them to come back and fix the issue, it did make a difference that was most apparent the night after having it done. Not sure if it made a difference to energy usage as we got a combi boiler fitted not long after, so can't compare bills. The surveyor seemed good and told me an area that had some rubble inside the cavity, so I busted out a brick and removed it before they came. Just always be there when they do the work and pay attention to them trying to get an early finish...

Roger, you explained all this so well, among the best I have seen. Thank you!

We were given a grant to have cavity wall insulation for our 3 bed semi about 15 years ago , and had it done right during the coldest period of the year. We thought it was great, until spring and summer arrived and the house stayed so cold that I began to suffer from depression during what normally is my favourite time of the year! And it was the main reason why we sold up and moved in the end. Really the gas that we saved during winter was undermined by the extended period of not being able to switch it off like we were always used to doing . But to have to keep going outdoors just to warm up during our few precious warmer months here in the Uk has strongly put me off cavity wall insulation, especially as in the SW our winters are very mild anyway.

I've always been suspicious of cavity wall installation but when the grants were available I decided to get a quote. To my astonishment the sales guy actually told me that, as I had over 40% window space on the wall, the insulation wouldn't actually be of any benefit. Goes to show that they are not all out for a quick buck.

Great Video, when our House was built in the 80s the Builder insulated the 100mm Cavity with Rockwell slabs. We do have damp Problems which have become worse over the Years and I know the Cavity isn’t capped. The Cavity is very damp so we are going to get a Chartered Surveyor specializing in Damp Issues to help us solve the Problem. Until I watched you Video I didn’t realise that Cavities should be capped. Thanks.

You’re absolutely right about the product Stormdry, it’s expensive but it’s the best on the market. I’ve used it a number of times including on my own house 10 years ago and it’s still working.

Great rant Roger, as usual. We had poly bonded beads. Surveyor found our cavities were 90 mm which was unusual for a house built in 1910. Trouble is that they forgot to tell the install team who ran out of beads for the next job! No problems with damp here thank goodness!

Really useful video which provides a good insight into cavity wall insulation and the potential perils of installation. I particularly liked the reasoning behind why cavities should be filled and the warning about gold diggers who are too often minimally trained and are in the business simply to hoover up any available grant funding. As pointed out, not all cavities are suitable for insulation and a proper survey, inclusive of a cavity check is essential. This is not a rant but a balanced insight as it covers the good, the bad and the ugly.

Very timely. I am preparing to do a roof raise with with some short timber framed walls onto a brick built bungalow. There is no cavity wall insulation currently. I also notice when taking a poke around the cavity was not closed. Now I am facing a cold bridging quandary.. 1. cavity wall insulation then close cavity then build timer wall (PIR insulated). Possible cold bridging. 2. cavity wall insulation, leave cavity open in the hope of tying in to the cavity. I don't yet have full drawing to know how much the timber frame may close the cavity. Also I was planning on scheduling the cavity wall insulation while the roof was off allowing them to blow down from the open cavity.

I wish I had KZfaq twenty years ago!! I have a 1930s house and had an extension built, then had lots of damp problems, I dug sixteen bags of rubbish out of the cavity that bridged the Dpc which had made the walls in the new rooms damp. I was told by an old builder friend that back in the old days the brilkies didn't have skips to dump the left over cement in, so they tipped their muck boards down the cavity. out of sight out of mind, until you build an extension that is! Great video.

We had a 1971/72 'New Build' no insulation then, my Dad went with foam cavity wall insulation, it was brilliant. No problems whatsoever in the property in the 28 years of living there.

Years ago in New Zealand we had a tutor at trade school who was Welsh. He would go on about brickies that wouldn't clean out the bottom of the cavity and the moisture issues it could cause.

Very helpful indeed. My in-laws suffered the problems he describes, and ended up paying a lot of money to have it removed. That put me off for some time. Maybe now I can find a decent insulation company to do the work. Thanks for the video.

Excellently put forward, and as it appears, unbiased, thank you.

A common theme that comes up in every video about insulation and damp and condensation is ventilation. Materials and construction techniques have improved so much, if employed properly, that 'air tight' houses are becoming the norm. Proper, well thought out designed and implemented ventilation, has become critical to the fabric of the building and the health of the people that live in them. It will take time for this to become the 'talking point' rather than just the problems caused by not having it.

Great explanation as usual. I live in the Netherlands and have had an inspection 6 months ago for cavity wall insulation at the farmhouse we've been turning into our next home. We made sure to have a company with a history and good reputation and it paid off in the sense that they advised us not to apply the insulation. Because the cavity space was very poluted with exces morter and other things they were expecting moist problems would be sure to follow.

We had cwi a good few years ago. No problem with damp, infact I have a humidity meter and that shows a dry atmosphere! Seems ok to me though. Certainly keeps the place warmer in the winter. HOWEVER, what they dont tell you is "it keeps the heat out in the summer". So most evenings its a bit chilly, Very tempting to put the heating on so wiping out any savings through the winter! There I've had my rant! Keep up the good work Roger.

absolutely on the money! I moved into a house that appears to have had government grants for both cavity wall and heat pump installation. The heat pump install is atrocious and the point made about fly by night installers now makes perfect sense! The advice on the cavity wall is perfect and just ordered a camera to take a look for myself as I think the best way with these situations is simply to see for yourself! Thanks for the vid keep em coming!

Good rant as usual. At least you aren't going to glue yourself to your road outside. We had the blown rockwool stuff put in about 10 years ago, that was a grant job. A couple of thugs came round, used a 25mm SDS drill direct into our walls, i would have done pilot holes gently first so i was concerned that they may be loosening the brickwork. There must have been a massive brick burst inside the cavity which I'm guessing settled at the cavity bottom, we will nevwr know. Im going to buy a damp meter for the walls i think and check to see if there are any issues. My dad had polystyrene beads blown into the cavity of his house back in the 80's which they claim allowed air and moisture movement. You dont see it any more, no idea why. 👍👍

I've had three houses into which I've had CWI pumped in, never had a problem. In each case it halved my energy bills. If there's damp, look to stopping the SOURCE of the damp, open a window and / or add trickle ventilation.

I'm in the middle of a back extension and noticed that the original house doesn't have any cavity wall insulation. This video was timed perfectly for me as it's my next job to sort out

Many years ago we got offered free poly beads+glue insulation on gov. grant. They didn't go up in loft ever or use a camera. Just drilled holes (some walls cavity, some more recent already had block insulation). All seemed OK until I opened the kitchen sink cupboard door and the whole floor was flooded with dry polystyrene balls - woosh! The inner wall bricks under the kitchen sink had been removed by previous owner! On one hand I was annoyed that they hadn't noticed that the glue had run out or had not checked for missing inner wall bricks, on the other hand, I was glad I didn't have to chip out the solidified cupboard contents!

Love your explanation of things, two questions, if you use a camera & find a load of detritus in your cavity bridging it what can you do about it, second if you’ve got to ventilate your lovely sealed up box you might as well keep the draughty old house with plenty of ventilation, I know I’m being a bit sarky here but I do wonder some times. Brilliant vids keep it up.

I find your videos very educational and instructive, many thanks. I live in a 40 year old timber framed single storey kit house, basically a plywood shed with a brick shell around it. The walls have a 2" cavity (roughly) containing a polyethene sheet vapour barrier and some glass wool insulation. The cavity is open at the top. Can you say whether it should be closed? The house was built by a policeman who had lots of friends in various trades (as policemen do) and I've found over the years that some of them were not entirely skilful at their chosen profession!

Great video and content as always. I bought an endoscope camera on ebay for around £10 and connects to Android phone/tablet and brilliant for this type of investigation.

Great video! I am planning to have cavity walls insulation and you gave me some great tips!

I remember when we had subsidies for solar panels on roofs in the UK, lots of companies with no electrical knowledge appeared and tried to convince people to install them. They've mostly disappeared now.

been doing the camera thing for years. we found loads of times in my town south shields that cavities were blocked with crap from when the house or whatever was built. sure the camera is an aldi special we got about 15 years back. 9 times out of 10 clearing that out cures damp problems.

Regarding gaps, to explain to clients if the gap could be seen like a material rolled up, the gap becomes clearly a bigger hole. With that in mind, a vally in a roof may look like a 'good job' but during a downpour, the vally is overwhelmed and water spills over onto the sarking... the membraine (if present) then encourages the tracking towards the wall headers. Industry tends to not 'read' the building (one size fits all), which Im glad to witness You do. Ace work fella!

Interesting video. Some people I knew bought a 500 year old plus cottage in the west country that had thick "cob" walls. It was cool in the summer and warm in the winter ....... gotta love "progress".

I have cavity wall insulation for 3 years now and no damp problems whatsoever. The house feels much more comfortable though. I agree with your arguments in the vid, but there are people who have CWI without problems

A "plumbing company" used a government grant to give me an energy efficient boiler. After years of cracked combustion chambers and CO leaks it turned out that they'd fitted a natural gas boiler to my lpg tank.

Hi Roger, I bought a 1960's detached house in 1987. It had Formaldehyde CWI. I was concerned about this but your Flog has put my mind to rest. I have asked my neighbours and my bills (gas) appear to be much less than theirs (45/50% lower). However, electrical cables react badly to the Formaldehyde (black, bitumen like coating). I really liked the video and have subscribed to your chanel.

Thanks a lot Roger, you're the Martin Lewis of the building industry!

We had those blue, plastic beads blown in about nine years back. Made a real difference and no damp at all so far.

We had cavity wall insulation in two houses with no problems - both “wet foam” Current house has blown fibre and is much warmer than adjacent properties. Could you please have a look at improving insulation in the walls of timber frame house?

Very passionate guy, clearly cares about the industry!

We had cavity wall insulation a few years ago, no dampness on the walls but, the loft was a different matter. After going up there for something I honestly thought that the roof had holes in it, it wasn’t until I checked more closely that I realised it was the cavity wall insulation had stopped the circulation of air into the loft. I researched and found that installing roof tile vents solved the problem and it’s been fine since.

Our house was built in the early 1960's. We moved in 35 years ago and I found that we had foam-filled wall cavities. We have had no problems with this at all and I would say the house benefits in terms of its thermal efficiency.

I’m a builder in New Zealand and we often build using a cavity, in my experience it’s extremely important that the cavity is NOT blocked or filled. air flow is vital to allow any damp that enters the cavity to dry out again. New Zealand learnt the hard way in the 90s what happens when you try to make the walls air tight along with other factors. As a result thousands of homes needed massive repair to rotten walls and framing

Very useful video. I have the small beads blown into my cavity walls and when I had a car crash into my wall, the repair resulted in all the beads falling out. What a mess

Oh Roger Roger Roger…I need you to come to Glasgow and fix our little 200 yr old cottage. Thanks for the brilliant info as always. I’m slowly working through your videos.

Never put insulation into the cavity of a timber-framed house. Their cavities must be ventilated.

I had my cavity insulated by a firm from Doncaster (who I won’t name for now). A couple of years later because of building work several holes were made in the brickwork guess what no insulation could be seen. Beware when having work done like this because you can’t see what’s been done unless like me you realise later it was a bodge and scarper outfit needless to say when I tried to call them the number didn’t exist 🤬🤬🤬

I love your rants Rodger. Sound a lot like mine. The wife doesn’t appreciate them but what does she know. She knows how to turn the thermostat up just before going out to garden and leaving the bleeding door open. I was out only there for five minutes cause it’s bleeding freezing she says. Stupid mare. Give us strength Rodger and keep up the good work. Top bloke.

My mate bought a semi detatched house that had cavity wall insulation and when it rained heavily the inside of the pine end got soaking wet. Being a hands on guy he took bricks out on the inside of the pine end every few feet and removed all the cavity insulation. There hasn't been any problems since. Personally I wouldn't fill a cavity on a house.

If anyone has a damp wall, it’s probably caused by something else, however when moisture seeps in and gets the insulation wet it stays wet for a long time, then the wall gets sopping, I’ve just hand removed all mine it took me weeks, but the wall is now dry 👍

One of the first things we learnt on a pre apprentice course at technical college ,was there is a reason for a cavity & you don’t fill it . The old brick ties were wire dickie bows that were set with the screw joint pointing down so any moisture could drip down to bottom & drain away . My walls have been filled with crap fibre wool type crap ,that ants just love building nests in .& soaks damp like a sponge causing damp . That together with plastic windows & plastic soffits & facias ,causes the house to sweat . Buildings need to breathe natural materials are best like timber ,bricks ,stone & slate . Time we got rid of this plastic crap & insulation & got back to proper traditional builds . The plastic windows & doors don’t last they become obsolete , timber is better they can be repaired & keep the old skills honed & the lads in work .

A splendid mini-lecture. Thank you.

Very useful information, thanks. When my property was "surveyed" the guy didn't even get out of his car, just filled in the documents on my car park !

Great video Roger. The only thing I disagree with and it's with the Government and that is trickle vents on windows. It never made sense to make a draught proof window with insulated double glazed sealed units which allow the heat from the sun in during the Summer whilst keeping out the cold and then stick a whole through the window and fit a bit of plastic. Never made sense 25yrs ago and still doesn't. Exactly why Building regs no longer make Trickle vents compulsory on new builds or replacing existing windows where TV have not been fitted. For hundreds of years we have "vented/aired" our houses by opening the bloody windows..........It's always worked but some smart arse decided a trickle vent was a great idea... :-)

In the case that the combination of humid air inside the house, insulation and heat bridges causes condensation, active ventilation with heat recovery can be a good solution. This is cheaper than removing the insulation and it improves the air quality in the house considerably.

In the early 80's my house had fibreglass insulation had a problem with damp, but a year or so ago I got it replaced with polyester beads insulation. The house hasn't had problem since.

We have a 1950's build with SW facing gable end. When it rained hard, we had waterfalls inside our windows and doors, then the paint peeled off the wall. Properla the wall, had what was left of old yellow insulation removed and now dry inside!

I had blown fibre cavity wall insulation injected into our cavity wall in 2009, and to be honest, I noticed little difference. The rear wall, in the kitchen, faces the prevailing wind, and was particularly cold, and stayed that way, so I hacked off the plaster, fixed 25mm kingspan onto the brickwork with the odd 65mm galvanised clout nail, then direct fixed 12.5mm plasterboard on top of that, with red plugs and again 65mm clouts. It's far warmer than before. The wall in the bedroom above that was done 15 years ago with Gyproc Thermaline, which is also quite warm. The very last wall in the house - just about to be done - is going to be with Celotex PL 4025, which was delivered Thursday. I must say, of all of them, this seems the most rigid. We'll see ...

I've lived in victorian, 1930 and a modern 1983 build and the 1983 build was by far the warmest and cheapest to heat.... it didn't have double glazing either, just the original timber framed windows. Both victorian and 30's build had very large rooms with high ceilings, the 80's build didn't Would you agree that ceiling height is one of THE most important factors in why some older properties are more expensive to heat? For older buildings do you think underfloor heating rising up through the occupants is better than trying to convect the heat around such a large space overhead with a radiator?

Used to see a lot of the injected stuff when I worked in the UK. Since I moved to Aus I've only come across it a couple of times, worked in with the guys when I've done the odd residential re-roof. I strip and let them get at the cavity from the top, the cavity feeds into the eave and the ceiling is insulated to this junction. Works well by all accounts..

Good to hear how done, I been thinking if get rockwool slabs and slide between the walls to sort most of it

Are there any good methods of insulating a house that has Concrete Cavity Blocks, but not a cavity wall? Some of the surrounding houses had the external insulation, and I think some are regretting it (not sure why, as my query is related to a family members house).

When we bought our house I was told by the surveyor there was cavity wall insulation fitted, I was opposed to it because I believed the hype about the problems and the surveyor even said if it was incorrectly fitted it would be a problem so we got quotes to have it removed. They were around 3k to 4lk - we drove down the asking price by a couple thousand to help toward paying for its removal. That was 7 years ago, we did not get it removed and it has kept this house lovely and warm, and on reading more about it I found this house was perfect for the insulation. I am sure there have been some badly fitted insulation that caused problems but a professional opinion should be found before you get it fitted anyway. This house is twice the size of our old house and the heating bills are cheaper. That's my experience.

Thanks for the video. People like you need to be the ones advising the government.

Very well explained and very actual words even so far away from here, from Poland. Same problems we have here with sellers.

I have a similar aged property to yours, in an exposed position, so have driving rain which comes through our sandstone so cavity unfortunately isnt for me. Would be interested to see how you capped your cavity. What did you use, and did you do a video on it? Thanks in advance

My parents got cavity wall insulation and the inside walls became sodden, they had to get it taken out. Wall ties to blame.

One very honest man... Well done.

Great video, straight forward info & helpful information. Thanks