You probably won't be able to afford it.

Trust in Jesus Christ our Lord And Savior who forgives everything and heeds those who call upon Him, AMEN

And wicked expensive.

Mark Palmer, But you might have to think if you have a grand piano and point loading on the legs.

Trust in Jesus Christ

Ain't he great?

What?!?!?! Sounds like a dream! What is the channel?

Actually they call it a "barndo" short for barndominium. I'm planning on building one when I retire to TX eventually.

can this method be used with radiant heating or would the insulation make it useless. can subfloor be put over radiant heated slab with a vapor barrier?

@@gm08351 in-slab radiant wouldn't be effective if you're insulating over top of slab as shown here. You could run radiant piping on top of the new subfloor assembly and it would be more effective than in-slab, since you're not wasting heat on the mass of the concrete... you could also obviously use the electric radiant grid floors that are becoming common.

Done often in the radiant heating world on existing slabs.

@@takehikes it's nice to see different materials living in Long Island New York I do 99 percent residential I seen people do heated floors in there kitchens, bathrooms but I've never used or seen the tape before. 👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸

We have those here too in the us.

@@mitchdenner9743 Any product names or links you could share? Certainly sounds like an interesting option.

I've even seen a job done with the following layers in Toronto canada- 10 ml poly, then a dimple foundation wrap layer, then 2" soprema SOPRA-XPS 30, then 3/4" plywood, then flooring. I thought this was overkill.

Those are no good. They are a little expensive, provide very little insulation, and provide very little structural rigidity.

Are you talking the dimple layer or the rigid XPS foam board at 2 inches thickness.

philip dias, How thick is the concrete over the foam? But then you still have a concrete floor that's hard on your knees?

@@tomruth9487 usually one or two inches over . You basically create a new floor that is thermally broken from the foundation. You build your internal qalls on the newslab.

@@Phil-D83 Interesting, thanks for the reply.

reclaimed polyiso is widely available and fairly inexpensive for its r value. Craigslist is where these companies advertise and many ship nationwide.

You bring up a good point.

@@tomruth9487 just think about how much extra material is wasted too.

I think you are smart to use the DMX or you can use Delta FL. I used the Delta and then 2 sheets of 1/2" osb with wood glue and stapled together. Plywood of course would be better. I glued my flooring down so osb seems to be working ok.

Check out this video kzfaq.info/get/bejne/j7iKoLp23Zm6nqM.html

@@saralola3171 Very good video, thanks. With laminating ( I used glue and staples) 2 sheets of 1/2" plywood or osb instead of one layer of t &g material, you can cut down or eliminate entirely having to screw the subfloor down or messing with tongue and groove problems. This is depending on how flat your concrete floor is. The whole new subfloor and new flooring can float and only be held down on the edges by the baseboard. Again this is if your concrete floor is flat enough to start with. A floor leveling material can be used over the concrete if necessary. The whole theory with a dimpled vapor barrier is to let the moisture coming through the concrete evaporate. It does make you wonder how well this actually works? It seems to be working on my floor after 3 years, but only time will tell. My old concrete floor had tile pavers on it and when I pulled up the tiles, there was an odor and a very small amount of mold, so I knew I had a least a slight water problem. So far, the odor has not returned with my new sub floor and engineered wood flooring. There are ways to test a concrete floor for moisture. My floor passed the simple plastic sheet test, but I would encourage anyone thinking about putting wood over an old concrete slab on grade to test before spending all the money and labor involved. Here is a good article on the subject. www.sspc.org/learning_center/concrete-moisture-testing-why-it-matters/#:~:text=ASTM%20D4263%20%E2%80%93%20Indicating%20Moisture%20in,the%20concrete%20indicates%20excessive%20moisture.

I had to google "hot tar screed" Don't think we do that out here in California. Sounds like a good way to go.

Hi Lee we're building in Houston too. Can I DM you for more details on your approach?

@@utubesj, Yup that's fine.

So your garage is an energy pig with a unforgiving floor?

@@njsification the floors are warm now. so you are a clueless keyboard warrior?

And who said anything about plywood. Advantec is 3/4 OSB. Talk about clueless keyboard warriors

It’s not meant to replace your main heating system it’s meant to better insulate the slab or floor.

Its the Austin loophole. There used to be many teardowns which caused older residents to complain that the neighborhoods were being replaced

It's usually done to grandfather in older houses that don't meet current zoning requirements for lot line setbacks or max square footage as a percentage of overall lot size. Sometimes in a renovation, it's cheaper to tear it down and rebuild than it is to try and fix existing problems.

legally a remodel. pretty common rule that as long as you leave the foundation, and lots of times a single original wall frame, no matter what else you do it's a remodel for legal/permitting purposes.

Just need 3 "standing walls" in most of Texas I believe.

@@bwillan Where I live you have to rebuild 1 wall at a time. If you tear down all the structure you have to rebuild to new code

Floating substrate ? Dont sound like a good idea if you want the slab insulated put down a membrane and maybe a heated flooring element they got the netting ones now adays easy and price ain't so bad

The payback must be wayyy down the line. This is why "comfort" is the only sales pitch.

Yah lets hope Matt doesn't have any moisture wicking up to the insulation.

Comfort in therms, yes, concrete is unforgiving. I put 4" blue board under concrete, and have on occasion run two layers of floating 5/8" U.L. on sill seal( 16"o.c.) to then add hardwood

You could have in-screed radiant heating in that screed and the insulation means it'd be heating the house and not the slab!

@@calmeilles True, but there is also alot of cases where in floor heating is not used.