Hi Eva, it is wonderful to read such feedback and it kicks my ass to keep sharing the knowledge that i've collected over the years. Thank you :-)

Thanks so much for this amazing feedback - it is much appreciated and motivates me to keep producing informative videos :-)

Enjoy the journey of learning this new skill! And thanks for your words that are motivating to create more good content.

First big difference is the breaking strength. Even though the weight is similar, the KingPin is 2-3x stronger compared to a carabiner. Also: Carabiners are really prone to cycling loading whereas the KingPin is much more resistent with it. Then a screw gate carabiner can unscrew with vibrations. In climbing this is mostly less of an issue, but in highlining much more so. Once the KingPin is properly locked it is a an extremely strong, safe and light weight option.

Thank you :)

Hi Mat, good input. I've used that method too, specially when there are small trees closer to the gap. Definitely a great method. With well-rooted trees I also meant that the ground is good and not much erosion going on. Even taking into account that for example after heavy rainfall the situation looks different. At one spot we once decided not to rig because the ground was simply too soaked with water and we were scared of erosion on that particular day.

Thank you. It is on purpose that we did not give an exact recommendation on that. If there is one party that could come with official recommendations it should be the ISA. But at the same time, the diameter depends on the sort of tree, health, etc. And very importantly on the height of the anchor point. We've had a perma rig anchored in 14m height. At the height of the anchor, the tree still has a diamter of almost 1m. At the same time we've used trees with a diameter of 20cm, but anchored it on 5cm height. We definitely do not recommend to use a tree with 20cm diameter. I think, if you want to go into discussion about it, slackchat could be a good place as long as the comments keep a certain level... Having a tree expert giving insights on the types of trees would be much more valuable than my limited knowledge on trees. Also the direction in which the tree is loaded can be of importance. There are for example pull roots that are much better in stabilizing the tree in that specific direction... You can see, the matter is complex and giving a simple number would just not do the job.

A slightly loose backup with strong tapes will break the osciallations better. However, in a really heavy storm there is always a chance of untaping. Last time it happened to us, there were wind gusts of around 100km/h.

A frost knot can be stronger in certain webbings, but not always. Here you can find a list of webbings tested in different knots: slacktivity.com/webbing-knots/ In avarage the figure-8 had a strength reduction of around 70% - however, there are big differences between webbings! Do not use a figure-8 in a pure Dyneema webbing for example.

The best anchors to reduce surfs are bolted anchors. 2 bolts, placed perfectly horizontal and in a rock face 90° to the line. On trees, using spansets in a basket configuration will be the best to have less surf. Using a perfectly round and vertical tree will also be helpful. Upon that, you can have the line on surf- or bounce tension. Surf tension is pretty loose, bounce tenstion a bit tighter and if you go even tighter you'll end up in circle surf tension which will make the line feel more surfy again...

Never use an aluminium carabiner in cyclic loading. A carabiner slightly bends under load - the side of the gate engages after 1-2mm. This repetitive bending will kill the carabiner at one point. The kingPin does not bend to engage. And therefore it is fine to use it in the main line. Furthermore, the MBS of the KingPin is 60kN which is also way higher than the MBS of a carabiner.