Nice video Jeff. I work in aerospace and every multi-bearing joint, doesn't matter what its for (a control surface, a cargo door, landing gear, etc.), has one bearing location that acts as the anchor point. The other joints float to account for tolerances. On big assemblies, with lots of bearings (attach points), the tolerance stackup can be significant and cause binding as the mechanism travels through it's range. Exactly the same as the front forks/wheel. Two attach points, one is the anchor (the bake side because it's close to the rotor) the other is the floating to account for assembly buildup. Of course the "floating" side here gets clamped up after the free state position is determined but it's exactly the same concept.

I read that same article recently and the fact the he put a wrench on the axle cap left me scratching my head. Thanks for addressing this 👍

I saw that video too! It really surprised me, coming from a factory mechanic. I agree, so many people don't understand the why, and then we get myths and dogma.

Thanks Jeff. Great tip for the right side alignment with the cap. That will save me the cumbersome task of using the motion pro fork alignment tool. I have been guilty of using a wrench to hold the right side and I even know that could spin because I swap it out for an axle pull on every bike. Sometimes the obvious needs to be said for us amateurs.

If people would just read the manual it explains how to do this in very simple, straight forward steps.

Jesus Jeff, thank you so much, how obscure a problem (the gap fear), and I found your video in like 3 minutes to address this. Thank you so much, your content is amazing.

Yeah I replaced my front wheel bearings then still had play and wondered why I finally figured it out by looking at the design of it like you said the axle needs to be tightened correctly then centre the fork legs sinch down the pinch bolts on fork legs. I came from owning Japanese mx bikes so I had to learn this for my ktm 250sx was interesting. Always checking for loose bolts too so I don't have issues at the track when im away from the workshop

Thanks for the video. I was almost doing it right as I tapped the axle in place with a rubber mallet, always set the left fork leg "gap" as described, snugged the two left side bolts down to hold the axle, then snugged the right side cap and right side bolts, bike elevated on a stand. Will make this small change and do it right from now on 😆

After you tighten the axel bolt bouncing the front a couple times while holding the front brake tighten the right fork leg axel pinch bolts that's the bikes way of centering forks

Jeff I saw that video also... couldnt belive this guy is a PRO ??? dont belive much u see on -line Jim two stroke

Clear and concise. Thank you 👍

people might miss the point here: your forks are two parallel lines that have parts moving inside in accordance with those lines; if over tight the axle using wrench on both sides, you mess the geometry that screws up the performance of your suspension.

Another great video. Thanks Jeff

Great video, had an issue with my fe350…..no more issue 👍🏻

Simple and to the point

Damn thats a pretty machine. Gettin goose bumps!

Hey Jeff, love your videos.

simple and best explanation!.Thanks!!

Hello, I just need to install a front rotor guard. Says to remove caliper bolt and axel nut. Must I loosed the pinch bolts first? Must bike be lifted or can I just instal

Thanks for the video Jeff. Just curious about the size of your front tire. Looks large? What size and wod love to know why. Thanks

I can't tell you how many times the pinch bolts are cranked down a crazy amount.

In the front axle there is a 10bolt inside on a sxf 250 2017 If we don’t put it back there is a problem ?

What is the Measurement of the 300d Ktm & Husky? I want to order off the Sight and it gives 2 options. 22 and 26mm. My Bike is 2023 TE300i HE.

👍👍

What keeps the wheel from sliding back and forth on the axle with the small gap there in the right ?

Do the ktm axles need to be greased when reinstalling?

If its only a cap, why do they machine it with a hex head? Maybe just design - but then its not good, as it is misleading the (totally correct) intuition. Anyways - I always did it as you described since 20 years. It would be good, if the hex head was glued or pressed in with enough rigidity, as the method is just faster than ours, if a secound 17mm wrench is at hand ;-)

What does the internal bolt in the axle do?

the lesson we learned today ladies and gentlemen, is that the Kool Kids don't need to use torque wrenches.Their hands are calibrated and re-calibrated regularly. So next time you see someone assemble brakes, axles, triples, MOTORS...if you see them NOT using a torque wrench, well then you know this guy's customer is gonna be A-OK