Nice video, it’s a stratifying feeling to solve a problem 🎉

thanks bro your video help me too much my smart is ready again

Thanks for this video, my 2005 450 went out.

I love it. Way to be thinking.

Good Job!!

nice work!

So the actuator has two bolts that lets you push the whole assembly forward and back i did not know this could that be similiar to adjust a clutch pedal as its wearing down? By chance what size were the two bolts?

When I bought mine it’s an 06 Cabrio. It never shifted quite right, and it was always a hard shift and finally one of my buddy was parting out one of the smart cars he had like four of them he gave me one of the shift actuators to try, and that was the problem the shift actuator shifts like butter now the car shift, so smooth and I had my old one apart and greased it and tried everything but nope just wouldn’t work, right

i have 3 lines on dash and glow plug light on, happened to come on at same time… I am going wait for the car to dry out with battery disconnected as it was soaking wet from hitting big puddle. i know clutch actuator and glow plug are different problems but have the p0380 error code and won’t clear with my computer

I got the 3 dashes too but my actuator i hear and see it move what could it be?

Got the same issue, had to tow it home. Has your fixe lasted - has the rod punched thru once more? So, a 12 mm flange nut. But I have no welder. I was thinking of epoxying the nut to the shaft, since it’s only pushing. Any thoughts if this could work? Many thanks.

Bonjours super vidéo la mienne a 3 barre au tableau de bord elle demare pas et quand elle et sûr neutre impossible de la pousser elle et bloquer sur place

Thank you for your efforts. Good Video. I have 3 bars on my display and nothing works (neither shifting gears, nor starting car). I checked the arm on my clutch and it seem to be ok (not worn). I removed the actuator and tried to clean and regrease it (in closed condition). But now when I try to install it, the long actuation-bolt is too far out. I am wondering because in your video, you have no issues to re-install it. I can't install it back because it dosn't fit in that condition. Is there a reason, why my Car has driven the actuation-bolt that far out? Any idea? Or was it the same with yours and you pushed it back in (however).

can you help my smart 2008 wont go on park and back wheel is wont turn Jammed

Whhen I start my Smart, sometimes it has difficulty engaging drive, and I feel the actuator banging several times but without successfully engaging the gear. Many times, I have to turn off the Smart and turn it back on to finally succeed in engaging the gear. Is there any solution to this?"

Had my clutch acctuator replaced apparently. Had it back 2 weeks still got the same problem jerky trans wont find reverse. Must be the clutch right? Is it worth it getting it done or scrapping it ?

Hopefully you can help me. I went to a gas station. They put gas instead of diesel. I never started the car. Sent it to Mercedes. They said they fixed it. Was able to drive home. Went to start the next day and wont start. Now on dash is one bar.not 3. Any suggestions? Thanks

If I may share my experience I had today: For about the past one month, I have had the same problem of "three lines of death" on my 2011 Smart 451. Last week (six days ago), I had replaced the battery with a brand-new AGM battery but still could not get the three lines disappear in order to start the car on my own. Well, take note that the old battery was the traditional (ordinary) type of batteries with capacity 48Ah and the new one is an AGM battery with capacity 60Ah. That makes a big difference: a traditional (regular) battery versus an AGM battery. According to the mechanic, I should have never used an ordinary battery of capacity 48Ah on a Smart Car. Yes, Smart Cars as start-stop-start-stop cars actually do need only AGM batteries, of capacity of about 60-65Ah! Now, let me tell you what my mechanic did today to get the car started just within 15mins of his arrival (for the first time called up by me after my several self attempts). In steps...: (i) he detached the newly-installed AGM battery entirely... (ii) he detached the neutral grounding of the battery which is attached to the car [on the passenger floor]... (iii) he started scratching around the grounding area of that car (i.e. on the passenger floor of the car where the battery neutral do get grounded to the car... he scratched to remove any rust & dirt from the surface)... (iv) thereafter, with the car key fully on [with all the dashboard lights on] and telling me to keep on pressing the brake pedal, he started re-attaching the battery to the car... (v) continued re-connecting the battery [starting with the main power connection]... (vi) while he was busy re-connecting the battery [specifically after the neutral grounding connection], we heard some sound from the back of the car (possibly from the shifting ACTUATOR underneath the car)... and whola! After those sounds and within less than ten seconds, the car got into the neutral gear on the dashboard and was ready to start. He charged me about U$25 [including call-out fees], with final verbal advice from him being: (a) the "three lines of death" mainly signifies a problem of a weakened battery... yes, your battery was weakened! The new battery could still not be identified as new by the car [hence the complete disconnection and cleaning of grounding surface]. (b) when replacing the old battery with a new, do so only with an AGM battery. Do not use ordinary batteries on Smart cars... (c) make sure that the new AGM battery is of capacity not less than 60Ah. The capacity of the battery indicated as "Ah" on the battery does matter a lot about the power and "counts of starts" a battery can maintain on a car. Make sure that you install only 60Ah or 65Ah batteries on your Smart Car, which must also only be AGM (sealed lead acid battery). Do not use ordinary batteries on Smart Cars. (d) make sure that all battery connections are not corrosive (including the car floor area to which the neutral of the battery gets grounded to the car). Summary/Conclusion: the "three lines of death" on a Smart Car is mainly a battery capacity problem. Before you replace your old battery with an AGM-only new battery which must be of capacity between 60Ah-65Ah, also make sure that the neutral grounding area on the car passenger floor area is clean (non-corrosive) to make proper conduct to the battery. After cleaning the battery connection points (including & essentially the neutral battery ground connection to the passenger seat floor of the car), start connecting your "12V, 60Ah" AGM battery back with the car key fully on and while someone else assists by keeping on pressing on the brake pedal. While doing so, you must hear a sound from the shifting ACTUATOR underneath at the back resetting (reprogramming) itself --- after which the dashboard should display "N" or "R" gear [whichever the car is in at the time, mine was in "N"]. Only use AGM batteries of greater capacity than 60Ah [of about 60-65Ah capacity]. Despite the indication in the manual for a 48Ah battery as standard, a traditional battery of that capacity is just a sham for a start-stop-start Smart Car. From my experience over the past five years, Smart Cars do actually need strong batteries of capacity not lesser than about 60 to 65 Ah! The capacity of the battery matters (indicated as "Ah" on the battery) for powering the alternator's starts of the car! However, do not overdo with that capacity to start blowing your fuses --- a 60Ah capacity battery should be fine for most hybrid-drive Smart models [450/451, etc]. Final warning: do not waste your money on traditional batteries -- go for only 12V, 60-65Ah, AGM Batteries. The 3 bars/lines on the dashboard do mainly point to a flattened battery weakness. For further information about 12V, 60-65Ah, AGM batteries for Smart Cars, check and do get knowledge-empowered via: www.blackridgeresearch.com/blog/what-is-an-agm-battery-meaning-advantages-disadvantages-uses-vs-standard-gel-lead-acid-lithium-flooded-battery and… batteryguy.com/kb/knowledge-base/sealed-lead-acid-sla-absorbent-glass-mat-agm-vs-gel/

20:15 is that roaming sound of not accepting gears i have that on my smart and cant accept first gear it accepts in 3k rmps and bau cars off like on manual car when you disangage clutch fast and dont add gas and its turn off car? Is it bcs of actuator cant accept gear??

I’m thinking, actually threading that shaft and then screwing a nut on with a locknut might’ve been a better solution that way it’s adjustable

p2402 c est le code de la diagnostic ? svp je un souci

Guess you figured out by now that the whip has to be fairly straight for a mig welder because the wire doesn’t wanna push through if the whip is kinked and if you tighten the feed wheels too much, you’re gonna wind up with bird nest inside the welder so that’s not the answer either so Gonna treat a welder, a small one, with TLC

Had this pop up on my smart today car starts but won't engage gears thre lines on dash board

Smart car is stuck in auto

is that a automatic car please i would never buy another f money pit crappest car i ever owned

Very annoying music to begin with !!!!