Sounds like alcohol poisoning 🤣

John Barduhn within the first 2 minutes of watching 😂

His systems making him efficient reminds me of on of the greatest books ever written. No matter how many times I read it, the turtle always wins.

Purchased and also picked up a metric tape, just to make things easier. (Didn't realize you were practically a neighbor.)

Have fun!

Thanks made a start on it today

Got my Parf guide about a month ago. Did a little test bench top. Busy with work, but will build some smart benches soon.

Ron, I totally agree with BR. I long ago learned to cope with attention deficit disorder and can now easily tolerate most anything. In your case, I've never seen any video of yours I found to be tedious or boring, or even just "TMI." On the contrary, it's a pleasure and feels like time well spent with a friend. Longer videos are fine -- indeed, a pure delight.

@@WelshRabbit Haha! A fellow ADD sufferer! See my comment above/below which I posted today... I think you’ll know exactly what I’m talking about!! Best wishes to you oh Rabbit from Wales!

Greatly appreciated David. 😎🤙

Unless you have access to a CNC, the parf guide is hard to beat.

I'm using a shelf pin jig for mine

At 09:28 in the video he said he’s using a 45 degrees chamfer bit. He’s just kissing the top of the edge with it.

@@guyjackson864 Hey, Guy - thanks. Yeah, I caught that about the chamfer bit for the edges. I was mainly looking to determine what diameter forstner bit (or whatever other bit he may have used) to punch out the corners of the side and stretcher templates before connecting them on his table saw.

The Top has 20mm holes with a Forster bit. One version of this he used a flute bit for a plunge router. With a track saw track that would be easy to keep the rows straight. Also 3/4” is 19mm I’m sure that’s fine also I think that bit is more of a common size and could be a lot less……… the pattern cut out is a 1/4”top bearing patterning (laminate trimming) bit. Could also use a 3/8” or 1/2” those are a bit more rugged and only matters for the radius in the corners. Whichever one you want something decent to cut that much not a no name Amazon bit or the bearing is going to be gone after about 3 feet of cutting….. as the guys said in the other comments a 45deg chamfer bit to knock that edge off. Diablo, amana or whiteside spiral flute are the patterning bits I’ve always had luck with. The rest the bearing loosens up and flys across the room no matter what I’ve tried. Hope that helps I think he doesn’t explain every bit etc because in the description the plans are for sale for $10. Seems worth the 10 bucks if you’re looking to build one. He’s a very smart guy

I noticed this too. Perhaps pg3 is a typo and should read 25mm?

I grind the bushings down to work with 12mm. It is quick and easy with a cordless grinder or a belt sander.

@@TheSmartWoodshop got it - thanks for sharing that tip!

Hey Patrick, take a look at more recent videos to see lots of info and demonstrations router use and tools. You will also see my use of Parf Guide MK II as the only accurate way to make the benches.😎🤙

Couple videos back he mentioned it was to see how much material he could save and use for future parts

I have a whole section of dust & vac tools that I use at Ron's Store on our website. Here is a link from our store to the hose I have. I have two of them and planning on adding a 3rd. www.amazon.com/dp/B0000223X5/ref=as_sl_pc_tf_til?tag=ronp07-20&linkCode=w00&linkId=7f9057cfa86692f6d4ed14b7682553f9&creativeASIN=B0000223X5

you can do everything with a large one. just makes life easier to keep say a roundover on the small one and a straight cut on big one.

The PSB (Paulk Smart Bench) is the same size as the older PCB (Paulk Compact Bench) the bench you want is the PSB as it is the current version. stores.modularmarket.com/paulk_homes/the-paulk-smart-bench-psb-p21.php

What you need to look for is Baltic Birch [ 18 ] mm as the individual ply are actual Birch accumulative to 13 plies. In a nutshell, Baltic Birch plywood is made entirely from birch plies, with no softwood or filler plies in the center.

He is using a spiral upcut bit with a router BUSHING not a bearing which accounts for the difference in the pattern sizes to cutout pieces.

It works, but only runs a ¼" bit. I make multiple passes for a clean cut which I do with a bigger bit and heavy duty router as well.

As I noted in some of the other posts replies:: is to look for Baltic Birch [ 18 ] mm as the individual ply are actual Birch accumulative to 13 plies. In a nutshell, Baltic Birch plywood is made entirely from birch plies, with no softwood or filler plies in the center. The Baltic Birch will be a quality upgrade an enhance the longevity of the Saw Horse in general

I suspect that the answer is that they don't need to be perfectly perpendicular. The pinhole grid on the bottom won't be exact, but it's only used to drill shallow larger holes to prevent tearout when the accurate holes are drilled from the top side with the jig.

The first set of holes is not perpendicular but parallel. Which is done by measuring an exact distance from the edge - which is straight because cut with a straight edge (a Festool rail in this case). Then the second set is perpendicular because the rulers used are 8 x 96mm and 10 x 96mm long, and set at the 6th hole, which makes a 3-4-5 perfect square triangle. This is middle school geometry - applied in real life, pretty cool. It's the Pythagorean theorem. And the person who had the idea to package that into a system and sell it is Mr. Peter Parfitt, an English carpenter, it's called Parf system, and if you are in the US, you can indeed buy it at TSO, the importer of the system in the US. Search for Peter Parfitt and Parf system for more info, he has a couple videos in which he explains it all.

The holes are optional. You could only add the holes necessary for you. Ive seen other people expanding on the fixed shop version of this design with built in extraction

Same for me. Can't quite wrap my head around it

Same! It's at 14:51 in the video but there no freeze frame.

I’ve just ran into the same problem. Did you figure it out?

Been there done that even made a video. Maybe when I am old and tired and bored with woodworking I will turn it over to the robots😎

@@TheSmartWoodshop Fantastic! Thanks for all the content you provide. I love your channel and the designs. I'll be off to purchase some plans!

@@TheSmartWoodshop I hope you never get old and tired and bored with woodworking.

BTW purchase yourself a set of Ron's plans also. Worth the money.😁

David Viger I bought 3 each 3/4” drill guides to press into a piece of hardwood. Using the my drill press to drill 90° holes to assure straight true guide holes.

Not hard at all, I'm about done with the router and ready to assemble next weekend