Wow great job! I’m sorry you had the cable stretch too but that happens sometimes it seems. It’s stretched over time and a new handle sometimes makes it stretch more then it’s used to in a while. Nicely done I’m sure your husband is impressed. 😁

Thank you so much I appreciate you letting me know! Good luck with everything!!

I’m pulling my cable but it won’t open. Is there another way I can open the trunk?

Thank you I appreciate you letting me know!

Awesome I’m glad you got it! Nice job.

Thanks I appreciate you letting me know!

You’re welcome thanks for letting me know. good luck with everything!

Awesome go for it!

Thank you! Yes I’m sure he would be proud. Great job!!

Thanks. I’ve tried that and it didn’t help me. Maybe it will someone else tho 👍

Thank you!! I’ve never done the passenger door sorry. I appreciate the feedback!

Awesome thank you! Nice job.

Thank you I’m glad it was helpful!!

Ok great!

That is awesome! Proud of you! Great job!!

Thank you for letting me know I’m glad if it was helpful! Good luck.

@@SmartEasyDIYer I think that the non OEM handle may be slightly different shaped than the original because my cable broke as well when I just replaced the latch. I went and got a replacement cable as well but the latch is not able to pull the cable far enough to unclick the door. There seems to be about a cm of dead space on the wire before tension starts. I'm going to try adding a fishing lead weight behind the end ball to start tension sooner...now I just see the post above me from Devin.

You’re welcome!

Thanks I’m glad!!

Thank you! 😁

Thanks for letting me know!

Awesome! Thanks

Thanks I’m glad!

You’re welcome I’m glad if it was helpful!

Thank you! Wow that’s awesome you had it for so long and put so many miles on it! Sounds like you’re good to go for a long time yet. So since the latch handle is tight like you said I would think that it would not be the handle or the cable that’s the problem. I would suspect the lock actuator and or the actual latch.

Thanks. So is the cable attached correctly in all spots? Cuz it seems like it should work if it’s same length and connected in all locations.

Thank you! I appreciate it. 👍😁

Thank you for letting me know!

Thanks for sharing your experience

Thank you!

Awesome! I hope it goes well.

Wow! Thank you so much!

That I’ve never done but I think you can just take that nut off the backside. Not sure you would get it keyed the same though if you changed it. Maybe a locksmith?

Thanks. I think maybe I’ve heard of that before. I can’t remember for sure but it’s jogging my memory. I think it was something like disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes and the reconnecting and trying again. If all your connections look good I’d try that next I think. Otherwise I’m not sure.

If your Cable is secured properly on both ends, it sounds like maybe your cable is too long?

The metal on the handle end can get bent and then the cable doesn't pull as much as it should anymore from my experience. alternatively, you may want to check out this other video... kzfaq.info/get/bejne/Y5iom7FymK_SioU.html&lc=Ugwvh-4s_Yx4qt4Cx7p4AaABAg.9KTuJnallzY9KU8RKMZ6dm

Sorry I don’t know exactly what it’s called I did some research and can’t come up with an exact name or part number. Maybe if you talk to a local Toyota dealer you could at least see if they can find out

It sounds like you might need to get the bag apart inside and access it that way to get it open. It’s kind of a pain because you have to crawl in from the front over the seat.

It sounds like maybe the cable end came off of the latch inside after pulling on it?

I answered my own question. Spray wd40 into the whole latch assembly. Push hard on the trunk lid from the outside, while hitting the unlock button on your remote. Hopefully your trunk latch and lock with still have enough ability to free themselves. It took a lot of coaxing to get mine unlocked as the lock mechanism was pretty rusted.

Good for you I’m glad you got it! Thanks for sharing with others.

@@absolute7181 I have the same problem as you. I disassembled the interior parts and I’m pulling on the cable (from inside the trunk) but it still won’t open the latch. Can you clarify where did you spray the WD-40?

Thanks. I don’t have any experience with fords so I don’t know for sure what’s going on with it but if it doesn’t open at all is sounds like it could be a handle or cable issue inside the door.

@@SmartEasyDIYer I figure the same. But I’ll get it done. Thank you your amazing

Thanks. Wish I could be more help.

You didn’t clean the actuator which is the real solution besides buying a new actuator. It’s not the handle or the cable it’s the ACTUATOR

My cable actually broke but when I checked it it was stretched out. That’s good info about the actuator being problematic too but this video was to address how to change the cable if it indeed does need to be replaced.

@@SmartEasyDIYer it broke cuz of the actuator. The handle breaks because of the actuator

Never mind I got it to open

Ok great

Thank you for making this video.

You’re welcome!

The whole latch assembly that I’m removing at 5:40 I would try to get to that if you can reach in there and get it to open where the other end of the cable is attached. I would try that method before bashing your way to glory.

@@SmartEasyDIYer oh yes thats what i did before, had the cable just sitting there, roll down the window reach in and pull and pop open the hatch. shouldve fixed it when it would open! too many things to do i guess. but i saw a video where a guy uses some 'L' shaped tool to reach in there and open it, from the outside, hope to try this afternoon I may just leave it like that if it works. he took a coping saw and cut the top so he can use the handle to twist the other side up in there. wish i had my old shop... my nickname was Blackie because i could do anything with metal like a blacksmith, lots of tools. 90% stolen by a "friend" roomate when i had to move. about $20,000 in shop tools or more, lots of specialty tools. gone. now I have a bag with a few misc tools in there. makes me sick

@@bradleyr4451can you update us… were you successful in getting it open , and how?

@@waterdd1 no. i sprayed it with silicone grease, hammered it , jammed a screwdriver in there and hammered every way and that thing would not open. I was so determined i didnt stop and that was june of last year 2022. the morning? I couldnt go. I ended up in the ER having to get a catheter shoved into the place it doesnt belong. 6 times they had to try and it did damage. I didnt know I could scream that loud. asked the nurse is it painful? no she says, but Im told its just uncomfortable. Ive had broken bones, got hit by a car on the freeway on my bicycle, knocked out, skull fracture that was nothing. Its my fault for not getting this checked sooner, have to get up every hour? all night? thinking it will go away on its own? no, I couldve avoided the damage it did. had to get another surgery for a SPC and it flows but im so messed up now. never forget the day fighting this latch thing. June of this year 2023? some vagrant stole and crashed my Sequoia into a phone pole, gone, no ins coverage

The the dealer is very overpriced. I have a link in the video description below the video where I got mine. Thanks

You’re welcome!

Off the end of the cable? If so you need to replace the cable too.

@@SmartEasyDIYeryes, but how do you open the hatch to begin with? If the cable is detached from the lower mechanism, then I don’t see how to open the hatch.

Hi Beyanka. I think unfortunately you’ll have to replace the cable too. Here’s the video on that. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/q9mCoq5939Kzmmg.html

@@SmartEasyDIYer That link doesn’t work. Can you check again and repost?

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/q9mCoq5939Kzmmg.htmlsi=pW5L9HR8GAne797n

Wow I’m glad you got it!! 👍👍

Thank you!

I’m not sure. Probably depends on your local area. I’d guess 400 at least probably.

That sounds a great plan! We love it. Overall a very solid reliable vehicle. We bought it in 2018 for 10k had 113k miles on it which is super low for these with the age. It was in Portland which was 12 hrs away but worth it cuz it was nice clean and rust free. Haven’t done a thing to it besides normal oil changes, timing belt which is very important to do on time, and this back latch and cable thing which is super common with these. Otherwise they just run. I think this 4.7 v8 is one of the most reliable Toyota engines made as long as you service it on time. Never uses or leaks a drop of oil. Oil is always amber colored on the stick never even dark brown. The only other vehicle I’ve seen similar was a Tacoma I had with the 2.7 4 cyl which is also a amazing engine they made for many years in smaller vehicles. I also like the first Gen tundra from what I’ve seen and would’ve purchased one as well but I inherited my dads 07 when he passed so that’s what I use. That has the 5.7 which is also a very good engine. Not quite as good on fuel. Either one of those you’re not doing it for the fuel mileage lol. But yes, I would totally recommend either one of those for a safe, reliable vehicle for many years. Try to find lower miles if you can in a rust free area of the country if that’s a concern for you like it was for me then you should have them for many years to come. Best of luck on your building journey too!

Nice. Thanks for sharing with others.

I thought I showed popping that last piece on.