Darkipod couldn't agree more. An exemplar to other KZfaq authors.

I'm pretty sure it's an advert. You have no idea how much effort goes into making such a good quality video.

I agree with the colour being questionable but also that this was a really nicely paced and produced video.

@@_Rich_. I would use this more if you cannot get a replacement. It is a bit time consuming but you don't have to use their products, they're probably not globally available anyway.

Rich T If the part doesn’t exist, then its not a 5 dollar part.

+Alex Swavely thanks for watching!

have you checked ebay?

Smooth-On do guys sell a small starter kit ?

Thanks ElderlyIron, this is a great idea, and we will forward this to management!

Could you do that with a 3D printer?

Its easy to do. I make glow in the dark accessories. Was thinking about making some how to videos without using high tech or costly items that the average person doesnt have.

if the handle is in 1 piece but pitted with holes try this mix some bondo to fill crack and holes let it dry about 1 hr then sand to the original shape should mold like new

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Thank you!

Glad it was helpful!

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Thanks Brad, thank you for watching!

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Thanks Linktw0, this is a great idea, and we will forward this to management! Thanks for watching and don't forget to subscribe!

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Thank you for watching!

I bet if you had done it for five at ten years you’d get pretty good at it too.

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You're welcome!

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Depends on the print quality I suppose. I'm not sure the screw grooves' fit would be to your satisfaction.

if its resin 3d printed yes, if its fdm typical 3d printing, you would notice the lines inherent to the process

@@86Spain you can sand those out resin print also has lines there just finer

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I thought DeLoreans were made in Ireland?

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Glad it was helpful!

Thanks Matt!

هل لكم وكيل مبيعات في لبنان

www.cermat.co.il/

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And if the patent has expired, you can sell them

If you have the ability to do both, you should. If not, the pressure pot is a good choice. www.smooth-on.com/support/faq/131/

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+Pushyhog thanks for watching!

coddas87 bust a tail light then cast a tail light

Rc Awesome i died

dildos is a safe bet

Carpathian I was just gonna say that

Thank you!!

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It’s the company that sells the molding equipment. It’s just one big commercial lol

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probably have to cut the clear area out of the red. then make a clear to glue in that hole. that's how my taillights where made clearly because they broke in a wreck. was pretty obvious. I'm not an expert like that guy though.

I also need to know how to set up a multi colored lens.

Pour it clear and then tape off the section needed to be red. Spray it with a can of red tint spray. You can get it from the parts house for about $12. I’ve don’t it many times and it works perfectly.

Thanks for watching William, and let us know if you have any questions here: www.smooth-on.com/support/ticket/add/agree/

CC202 is a UV resistant resin, suitable for outdoor use. The effects of UV are dependent on exposure.

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Pressure

So it's always pressure for bubbles to shrink during the cure and not for bobbles to pop like degassing process?

+Inspire To Make correct

Smooth-On thanks

@@smoothon Why pressure vs. vacuum?

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Thanks for watching! 😃

+djtren63 you could, if you need help, send us a tech support ticket via smooth-on.com

ok thanks

Thanks for watching Kamon.

Thanks for watching - Our full distributor list can be found here: www.smooth-on.com/distributors/

@Stinky Cheese same here, stop-n-go traffic in Los Angeles will crack even original brake light lenses, will this material take the heat?

I use a food dehydrator at 145F to post cure my lenses, left on one half of the mold. This increases the strength of the resin a lot, strength it would normally only reach in 2+ weeks. I've used some of my failed castings at shows to do drop demos onto concrete and asphalt to show how tough and scratch resistant they are. Another reason for post curing Crystal Clear 202 is to increase its heat resistance. The lens cast in this video, if put in water the temp that comes from a typical kitchen hot water faucet, would soften and be easy to distort. Heat it up in a dehydrator for a few hours and it won't ever soften at any temperature lower than that. Even after this curing I can still use a dip in 200F water to bend castings for doing modifications to make another mold to replicate the new shape. But you cannot do this post curing so soon after casting. I wait a minimum of 24 hours before post curing and I leave the castings in the pressure pot that long. Why? Because leaving a 'green' 202 casting in contact with the mold *without* being under pressure tends to cause 'suck back' markings, areas where the resin shrinks away from the mold. Using convection heat, flowing hot air, is important! When I first started resin casting with Smooth-On products 16 years ago I tried to use a normal oven but the radiant heat ruined the castings (massive suck back) no matter how old they were. An old food dehydrator or countertop convection oven is ideal for post curing. Since the dehydrators I have only go up to 145F I bought a small convection oven which only goes down to 200F, for resins (like some epoxies) that need higher temperatures to reach their ultimate strength.

Use an LED bulb

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@@smoothon I love your products. the main problem is choosing which one's best for a particular application.

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Pressure casting a resin is more suitable for a 2-piece mold such as this.

Awesome! Thanks for watching.

- BATER- I just bought then sold a 1985 LT 185 in mint shape... Then bought a z50 for my girls son, wish I never sold the LT. Thing was awesome and a great starter quad.

The only thing is it would pop out of reverse sometimes but the rest of the quad was the best and cleanest one I seen to date.

Just do it.

Great idea! Thank you for watching!

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not just high value, but re-use the mold to pop out a dozen or so and sell them on ebay for some profit :D

Value is in the eye of the beholder

@@VitaliyKhomich exactly if ya need it ya need it

Great idea! We will let the video team know.

@@maxanderson755 Casting rubber: ~$35. Casting resin: ~$42. Pressure pot: $100 from Harbor Freight if needed. Total would be under $200 with the pressure pot. Access to an air compressor is assumed, but if you're doing a project like this you'd likely already have one anyway. No, it isn't a cheap way to get a lens, but if the lens isn't otherwise available it beats not having it. I need to replace the tail light lenses on a 50-year-old car, and I haven't yet been able to find anything other than the complete light assemblies for $250 each--and even if they're in perfect condition, the lenses are still 50-year-old plastic and not likely to last.

@@danbrown586 and what if the lenses or mirrored? and the other 1 is broken? how can you create a mould then? (im just curious)

@@dcpred3889 I haven't yet used this technique. If one lens is broken and you have all the parts, I'd expect you could glue them back together (maybe with CA glue) to make the mold. If not, I'm not sure what would be the best way to proceed.

@@dcpred3889 First off, I've never done what is being shown here. with that said, to make a mirrored part, would take an extra step or two, but basically not hard to do at all. In the example of this video, the mold he made is the negative, the part he created is the positive. It would just take some playing with positive he made (Maybe cutting in half, to reverse the locations of screw holes, as an example.) I'm gonna say it takes some creative thinking, that's about it. Another thing that may come into play, when trying to make a mirrored part, is not letting a "POSITIVE" part dry completely. If it is possible to take a part out of the mold when only 50 - 75% cured, then do what ever slice & dice, and than let the part fully cure. The quality of the part {Finish} may look bad, but what your after is: Can you now use that low / bad part to cast a part with a great finish. Or maybe simple as making a mold (Positive, put another way, this would be your 2nd mold) from the first (Negative) mold created.Just an old autobody (25 yr's) 15 yr's welder, metal CAD-Designer/Fabricator., offering my two cent's. Remember, you get what you pay for, you paid nothing for this advice. LOL!!!

@@dcpred3889 To my knowledge there's no reasonable way to accurately reproduce something so detailed in a mirrored form, using hand-working techniques. Ideally you'd borrow a good pair of lenses and make a mold from them, then give them back. Otherwise, unless you're proficient at Solidworks, Alias, or a similar program, and have access to a very high quality 3D printer or 3 to 5 axis mill, it's going to be worth your money to literally buy a parts car just for the other lens.

Pressure casting a resin is more suitable for a 2-piece mold such as this.

Why is it more suitable?

+Larry Hutcherson Sr because vacuuming happens before pouring, bubbles can be entrained in the process of pouring the resin. These bubbles could get caught in the resin.

But if there bubbles , in pressure they will be smaller and pressurized, am I right? They do not pop out , right? One thing its better, its cheaper to pressurize.I will try. By the way thanks for good video.Good job.

Thank you for watching!

Material is cheap, 100%. I can find like $5 or so Tools? A standard 2hp compressor here can cost $300, small chamber pot (5liter) cost me $200 But then, i realized its worth every penny, i can make money from it

that is pressure cooker not vacuum.

A vacuum chamber helps suck out the bubbles before pouring. A pressure chamber helps squeeze the tiny bubbles after pouring. They do different jobs, and you can use both. At 60PSI any entrapped bubbles will be shrunk to (I think) 1/4th their original size.

@@ElizabethGreene Well 1atm is like 14psi, so yeah, 60psi is around 4 atm.

I am amazed at the production of this lens, and astounded by the number of popcorn buckets in the shop.

bullshitennogveel meer, well duh! Congrats on having zero sense of humour.

I love Popcorn!

Thanks for watching and we are glad that this helped you.