Did you get it this last weekend? I was also in Timonium for the train show

As long as the switch is thrown to the desired controller and the power is off that wont happen, but yes if the power is on you are correct.

Rat tail switch. Chamber DC to DCC.

I'm looking forward to that video

Also, if you're wiring mil-spec or NASA spec, you need to suck the old solder out of the terminals on the switch - or better yet get a new switch. Tin the wires, add a short piece of heat shrink tubing, and then form a 'J' on the end of the wire. Put the 'J' into the hole on the switch, crimp it closed and solder that connection. Slide the heat shrink tubing over the connection and heat it with the soldering iron to shrink it. Do this on all six connections to the switch. On the other hand, if you couldn't care less about mil-spec or NASA specs, then the hell with all of that.

Would be easier to read with periods. Please

@@stevefranklin2769 I'm sorry your Illiterate

Brilliant, so you can change the direction on any given section?

​@@SMTMainline It should be able to do so in theory, but I haven't wired it up yet. It might work, then again it might not. It would be useful if it does work as the speed could also be fine-tuned as well as direction, although troubles could be encountered with trains crossing in and out of a block depending on the polarity. Here's a "diagram". Block A Block B _________________ ____________________ l l l l l l l l RVRS RVRS II ll RSTT RSTT II ll DPDT DPDT ll ll // // ll ll // // ll ll // // ll ll // // ll ll // // ll ll // // \\ \\ // // \\ \\ // ll ll \\ // ll ll \\ // ll ll DCC ll \\ // \\ // \\ // \\ // \\ // \\// DC Key RVRS = DPDT with reverser circuit wiring RSTT = rheostat, adjustable resistor, potentiometer, etc DCC = DCC control system DC = DC control system While it is not the best representation of it, this is as close as I could get to a wiring diagram with the symbols on my keyboard. There would be an additional branch with the switches for each block.

Look into remotoring them, both Athearn and Kato make replacement motors that will pretty much drop into most blue box locos be and run in the $40-60 (US) range.

I use a DCS51 but its getting old, my friends DCS52 was pretty nice.

Most DCC locomotives work on Dc but it isn't good for their decoders.

I'm probably going to use this way to put dcc to my dc layout because if I have both then I can use all my dc locos with dcc ones that I buy because dcc locos are usually alot more detailed than dc

You can run bus wires but make sure they feed from the switch's output and not one of the controllers directly. Keep an eye on which wire goes to which rail as not to short them. As for the DC gs4, it's totoally fine to run it on DC. DCC ready locomotives have a circuit board which directs all the locomotives power to an 8 pin socket. Before you install a decoder they simply put a bypass in the socket to allow the power to flow through.

I was very happy with mine and it was a good introduction into dcc, having said that. They're quite outdated at this point (they we're released in 2004) and have limited capabilities. You might be better off going straight to a higher end Dcc system like a Digitrax or NCE system. I personally have a Digitrax system and am quite happy with it, some people prefer NCE though and I couldn't tell you which is better since I have only used Digitax. Hope this helps -Harrison.

I have the dinamis Bachmann it has all the bells and whistles

Nope, the power cuts out between switching them.

I haven't made one yet. The controller is an MRC Tech iii 9500 series.

I'm not sure I understand but you can't hook up two controllers to the same track without a switch between them otherwise power may flow backwards to the other (even if one is off).

@@SMTMainline Bachmanns 9inch straight terminal rerailer track. It has the power prongs on both sides of the track.

@@GeneralLee0178 That's just so you can place the controller on different sides of the track, if you hook up two controllers that way it could cause issues.

@@SMTMainline yeah true you would actually have to unplug the controller that you are not using from the track. I like the toggle switch better.

If your talking about O scale I couldn't help you.

@@SMTMainline do you think I could

@@Tyc11114 Well most ho trains operate on 2 rail DC and O scale trains operate on 3 rail AC. I don't know what the situation is with DCC on O scale nor do I know if the age of the loco makes a difference. It's probably not impossible though.

@@SMTMainline I was thinking of putting a decoder in my lionel line's 1130 postwar loco that I had to remove the e unit

One wire to each rail

@@SMTMainline alright thank you so mich!

Are you talking about the + and - wires?

@@SMTMainline THE POWER SUPPLY to the track in dcc is universal .in dc each section of track is controlled by the regulator the points - in dcc the frogs are changing from posotive to negative via a switch so if you run dc on a dcc wired point will it not short out

It could probably be done if you wired it differently. I'm not sure how though.

You cannot directly connect them to the track without a switch. The bachmann EZ command controller has the ability to connect a DC controller to the DCC controller though.

@@SMTMainline like Switch the Cables?

It's a double pole double throw switch.