it's coming! and it will be an SA example

You seem to either have both an incompetent installer and a typo or an even more incompetent installer. Any electrician worth their tea knows: -The difference between energy (kWh) and power (kW) -The difference between maximum and sustained power (both W) -The difference between heating power(W), cooling power(W), and electrical power(W). These are usually all in the same tag of the appliance.

Also should know the difference between an inverter driven motor and a non inverter driven one: the non inverter driven one always has a peak on startup of multiple times the sustained power. This could trip your system's overload protection if it wasn't designed to withstand it. Oh, what's this? Solar inverters and AC coupled batteries have a sustained and a peak rating too? Ah, figures.

@@lua-nya on perhaps the installer should check the contract and/or speak to their sales people and they would find out this had already been covered. I think the reason this company did a good job for him was because of the publicity on this channel.

Please share your contact and our team will get back to you on this

😗😃😄😁😆😅🎃👽💦🙀

Which system you installed

I have a friend who is an expert on this.

Take a bigger battery

Glad it was helpful!

First, consider lowering your sink and shower Flow to 1.4Lpm, 2Lpm respectively. Minimal water flow translates to energy savings and lower watt water heaters. Tank heaters turn on-off many times daily.-- a big waste of energy. Use Point of Use(POU) water heaters. Heat water when needed. 1. For sink hot water, ask yourself, what temperature do I consider hot? 37°c, or (43°c), or 50°c? Definitely not 100°c. The least you heat water, the smaller the Point of Use(POU)instant heater, the lower watts needed, the less solar panels needed to heat your water. 2. Become familiar with the ground water temperature in your vicinity. For example, 22°c ground water temperature needs an increase of 21°c(differential) to 43°c to give you hot water. Note: increasing water temperature, minimally, You will be able to use a: 1400watt, 1800watt, or 2400 watt heater, depending on your ground water temperature you started with. Again, this will reduce your solar panel watt demand. Simple rule, if you are heating water, and opening the cold water to cool it down, you are heating too much and wasting energy. 3. Water heater manufacturers will provide the specs on their heater, to what temperature differential a certain heater will increase. Select your heater that is good for you and family. This is the recommendation for Sink's hot water. 4. Install a POU heater under each sink. This way you will have instant water at the turn of the tap. Avoid propagation delay by installing heaters in the garage, or outside. Large homes can waste up-to 8 liters of water waiting for the water to arrive from garage to sink or shower. Note: Select a water heater that activates at minimal flow( 1.0--1.4 liter per minute flow. Heater mfgs. are redesigning their POU heaters to activate at lower flows. Some customers have complained that after they lowered to sink flow to 1.4Lpm, the heater doesn't work. Do your research before buying a POU. More info on Shower water heater, if you ask!

We'll definitely take more care with the audio going forward. Thanks for the feedback!

I didn’t hear any problems with the audio! I just appreciate the great information

Sorry about that! It stops lots of Americans asking for quotes for Aussie systems! If you shoot an email to jonathon@solarquotes.com.au , Jono will look after you.

yes

your best bet is to work with a good local installer that knows how to deal with WP

@@SolarQuotes thanks for the reply. Tried that first, they said they have never been successful in these negotiations with WP. It’s a $40k system with battery, which will be worth less in the end to them if it’s limited to only 15kW. Also asked my sparky who deals with them all the time, but he didn’t have any good human contacts either to try. Government quangos…..

yes - as long as your battery inverter has the comms to do it

Yes

No. If you don't have batteries and the grid goes out - everything loses power - just like a non-solar house. If you have a battery backup system, the batteries kick in, and your essential loads keep going (some systems do this immediately, some take a few seconds).

​@@SolarQuotes, In "Mode 2" at 10:31 where the grid tops up the output of the solar panels, if the grid goes out at that point, are you saying home appliances don't get any electricity at all? Same question for Mode 1 where solar produces more power than the home consumes; if the grid goes out, does the home get no power at all? Seems to me that if the grid goes offline, home appliances should just continue to receive power from solar - indeed that should be one of the benefits of solar power? But it should never draw more than what the panels can produce.

Lot's of reasons why this logic is flawed. The main one being that there are no proposals for a 'solar tax' that charges you for exports. That's the media going for clicks and outrage. Current proposals will reduce your FiT by 1-2c at certain times of day and increase it at other times. Second reason is 'Curtailment is Cool'. A smart solar system can simply go into zero export if there was ever a fee to export. So you need never be penalised for a large system.

less then $1 AUS /w in Australia ,, i run my own small business,

Does this mean if my system makes more energy that I use and the excess goes into the grid I get money back ?

Yes but they buy it off you at about 6c per and sell it to you at 31c per so it’s better to have a battery but they’re not cheap atm

www.solarquotes.com.au/blog/are-growatt-inverters-any-good-heres-an-installers-opinion/

​@@SolarQuotesthank you, I ended going with sungrow 10kw inverter and 10.2kw jinko 440w panels 😊 your website guided me immensely, thank you

Sun Tax is the media's inflammatory name for a 1-2 c per kWh reduction in Feed In Tariff from about 10am-2pm that you can opt into if you also want a bigger increase in FiT outside those times. The details will vary depending on which DNSP (local electricity network you have) but it's no big deal. Gets lots of clicks for the media though.

Growatt inverters are at the very cheapest end of the market here in Australia. Personally, I'd pay a few hundred dollars more for a Goodwe or Sungrow if I wanted a budget inverter.

@@SolarQuotes Thanks for your info

If you want to do the maths quickly and impartially - www.solarquotes.com.au/solar-calculator/ (Australia only)

We have never recommended buying the cheapest solar. I’m glad your super cheap system is working. Will be interesting to circle back in 10 years. To claim no one has ever claimed a warranty is just silly.

Loads of people need warranty claims regularly. And if you purchased a 3000$ system from Arise you will need one, one day. And no one will do it lol.

@@jimmysmithjrjr Bullshit, you see yobbo TV (Current Affair) all the time chasing warranty issues with customers be it cars houses A/Cs etc. Regardless mate the cash saving is in the bank. I get only .7c feed in also.

@@SolarQuotes You gutless wonder, did you erase my rebuttal?

@@hmasyarra I am on the cheapest plan with AGL in Adelaide and I get .5c a kW hr for my exports but I also get the lowest overall tarrifs. Some of these solar plans jack up daily connection costs and peak tariffs as well as limiting the **big tariff** to only the first 14 kW in the case of AGL Woohoo! a whole $1.40 to offset all the other raised costs. I still think you are off beam with warranty etc. being irrelevant. IF you have a problem, who you gonna call?