Yeah, he's good!

Yes never want to deform or rip. If you control the amount of solder, it shouldn't get into the body. I have seen regular solder fitting almost closed with solder. Whoever did those solder joints must have been having a hard time.

I never tried partial opening. I always installed open unless holding water back on other side. I figured open the gasket wasn’t against hot metal. Never had problems. Yet could be a reason I run into many failed valves on steam boilers

I would suggest instead going with the manufacturer's recommendation. For example, Apollo recommends open while Nibco recommends closed. Some manufacturers recommend the valve be disassembled. Best source of information would be the company that designed and manufacturers the valve. If it is not possible to contact the manufacturer, I default to fully open. If the ball is full open, 100% of the nylon ring is in contact with the ball's OD. This acts as a heat sink and protects the nylon from being melted - or distorted. Leaving the ball partly open exposes the nylon ring/seal to the air and surrounding brass body temps - with less heat sink than any other position possible in that phase of the ball that is now inside the ball cavity. Therefore, part of the nylon ring is fully exposed without the ball's heat sink aid - while the part that IS in contact will be unevenly heated and induce warping, distortion or a melting condition. Leaving the ball fully closed allows the bore of the ball to trap air inside the valve body chamber and although the nylon seal is in full contact of the balls heat sink (protecting it in the process as before), it subjects the packing box and ball bore to 300°F+ air expansion dynamics - which likely exceed the WOG rating of at least 125# or perhaps 300# and will compromise the packing, the seal or if a drop or two of moisture is present, or even blow out the seal.

I default to fully open for 2 readons: 1. If closed as the air inside the pipe heats, I've seen ball valves move during soldering due to heat induced pressure on one side. 2. The ball will help to retain the shape of the nylon seals during the heating process. It's very easy to cook a ball valve.

I don't apply solder into the fittings to prevent flux from being pushed into piping. Applying to pipe puts flux into the fitting. Too much flux makes solder run, it also spits and splatters. Not fun doing a lot of over head soldering, getting splashed by hot flux. Turbo torch is an air/ acetylene torch. The heat output is adjustable by the regulator, and the valve handle. I use 3 to 5 often. An 11 tip heats quick and good as long as you control the heat. 3/4 pipe i would stay with a 3-7 tip. I do all my low temp soldering with the air acetylene. Propane works and the tanks are lighter. Yet i might have to do low temp soldering, or brazing a refrigerant fitting.

This didn't work for me... The wet rag cooled the solder point way too much to solder normally. Just don't heat the ball, but just the tip of the valve.

Sterling is available at Lowes. The tinning flux is available at both Home Depot and Lowes. I used both these products recently to sweat valves and it worked great.

​@@steveloux4709 Wow. Look at the price. Expensive for doing just a couple of valves. The cheapest sterling at Lowes comes in a kit with regular flux (which I don't need) for $26. It would be awesome if it came with tinning flux. Oh well.

@@rgraz4929 it is expensive! I think the last roll I purchased thru eBay.

Never had any problems since solder hardens quicken. Been doing it for over 20 years without leaks

Also new I’ve worried about that as well but the solder should harden fast 30-40 seconds full cure maybe faster for sterling solder but I wait 40-50 seconds then slowly work my way to they joint with my rag to siphon of the heat but maybe thats neurotic.

Only downfall to using previously soldered connections is getting pipes together. You either need to remove the excess solder or heat the fitting to slide together. Always add flux

Did it come out sloppy and runny? Or neat and sealed?

@@howtohvac3234 it looked ok

look up pencil rhemer

@@ShrimpCracka will do. Thanks.

Technically it is not reaming, it is burnishing. Removing all containment's or oxygenation on the metal to achieve uniform solder flow. Reaming is more about de-burring.

I’m not a plumber, yet deal with water lines for heating systems. I do not like shark bite fittings. I don’t trust them, seen and replaced to many leaking fittings. Propress fitting I do trust

@@howtohvac3234 Do you think compression valves are more trustworthy than sharkbite? Or the same? What about compression valve a main shutoff. I'm just worried when the water co turns my water off at the street so I can replace my house main shutoff, the water will be trickling too fast to solder. Thanks

The newer valves are sometimes a bitch. I learned on the up to 5% lead valves. Big difference. Any valve on potable water after 2014 can have at max 0.25% lead.

@@BB-nn9en ha your right the new lead free valves are different. I just sweated one yesterday. Old head plumber at Lowes told me now you have to heat the pipe 20 seconds first to let it expand..then the brass......so I tried it on a 30 buck valve and it worked like a charm......

Maybe you can make a video on how you did it

​​@@cooldude2245 There is a great video by got2learn on how to solder lead free valves showing why you heat the pipe first, valve after, directing flame away from valve body.

Back in the day they said smoking was good for you Back in the day they didn't install seatbelts. Back in the day they used leaded paint Back in the day...... 😂

You need to get the fitting hot. The lead free ball valves need to be soldered in with low heat, or the seal will melt. The heat pulls the solder into and around the fitting. You can burn the seal easy if applying to much heat. The way I did it helps heat the pipe and fitting, without ruining the seal.

Get over it. Any trade that involves an open flame and a tank of acetylene gas can be chaotic. Life is chaotic and people make mistakes, it's how they react and correct them that counts. And he did great. I commend him for catching his mistake and explaining that he missed a critical step and why it is critical.

don't get you panties twisted, he is a professional second the risk of splatter is only if you overheat it and overload it with flux

Safety goggles...... why not welders gloves, face shield, judo gi , and ear plugs...

Correct Jim Safety First in all cases .. ... otherwise you are Not a professional.. Safety Goggles are Cheap,, Lost Eyes are Not.. Also He did not Seat the Bottom PIPE Tight

And don't forget the N95 mask too, even if the plumber has been vaccinated! :-)

Dont forget your tampon.

I thought you are not suppose to heat the body of valve since it could burn the rubber ring inside?

What problem(s) arise from using a wet rag?

@@JonathanScheelei believe it rushes the curing process and can cause cracks in solder

Go back and watch at 4:40. The pipe instantaneously jumps back into place and becomes rigid. At that point he did stick something underneath the pipe but we didn't see that and he didn't say anything about it.

His work looks great, have you even soldered before? You can tell he's done a lot with how he handles himself. Have you ever done a video before? It's harder to remember things when your focused on a good presentation sometimes, something like he did does not mean he isnt a pro at all.

@@seane6616 Yes and yes. Boo, hoo hoo

@@kathyern861 wtf is wrong with you g.g

@@seane6616 Wrong with me? The wrong is not with me. The fact is a simple one. No one likes what I have pointed out in this instance. KZfaq is an outlet for hacks of every (how-to) stripe who attempt to assert themselves and thus deceive and confound other gullible watchers. If a master plumber watched every plumbing video posted - I guarantee you that greater than 90 percent of the thousands of plumbing videos would be deleted.

@@kathyern861 KZfaq deleted your comment, but I can still see it only as a notification. His joints will hold up, he does a good job, and he clearly knows what he is doing. You're being nothing short of absurd, has your NPD been diagnosed yet?

I thought the same until I rewatched the video closely, and it showed the pipe was re inserted fully and supported. That part was not included in the video.