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Dude, your a genius. I have a 2009 R56 with 251000 miles and had the same problem crop up. So glad I found your video. You saved the car from the scrap heap. And saved me a ton of money. Just amazing. THANK YOU!

If you were ever interested in Learning Mechanical or Electrical Engineering, Buying a Mini Cooper Might just be for You!

Thanks for doing this video! All of the comments with others having the same issue, then resolving it after watching this gave me hope that my stalled-then-no-start situation related to this. So I followed your guidance, took out the fuse box, de-soldered *most* of the pins with a solder sucker (snipping the remaining 6 I couldn't fully de-solder) and sure enough that one solder joint looked just like yours. Added a bit of flux and re-flowed while adding a tad more solder. I wasn't sure if the relay was OK still so took a chance on it. Re-installed in the Mini and as soon as I reconnected the battery I heard the fuel pump prime. Good sign! It started right up. Not super familiar with auto mechanic stuff, so this was a huge win. Can't imagine what a dealer or other mechanic would've charged to resolve this!

IT WORKS for Works. I knew I had the right video when you talked about both hating and loving the car. I have a 2010 JCW and it would randomly stall, then start after a few minutes. Random as in not every day or several times per day regardless of speed, weather or terrain. No check engine light, no clear repair path to follow. I was thinking along the lines of electrical issue and thankfully I found your video and it made perfect sense as I've encountered bad solder joints on other vehicles. After removing the fuse panel I tried to unsolder the pins that join the boards together but abandoned that ideas as the boards are soldered on both sides and the pin solder joints are covered with a waterproof coating. So I clipped them as you did. I found that pin 8 of the EP2F-B3G1 fuel pump relay - the switch contact that turns off/on power to the pump looked exactly like your video. A small crack in the solder around the pin with some bubbled solder. I took the relay out and checked its performance and reinstalled it. I resoldered the relay to the board and the board to board pins with silver solder which has a higher heat and vibration tolerance. I also went over a couple of suspect solder joints on the boards. Two months later and many thousands of miles later, no stalling - FIXED! I got lucky, I tried your cure first before replacing fuel pumps and throttle bodies and the like. Many thanks.

So often I find and fix faults with various things but then wish I had taken the time to video the procedure as I went through the stages. This is often not bothered with at the time as you go through so many ideas on how to fix the issues but some don’t remedy the issue so you tend to just get on with it. My point is, love how well you have managed to still compile a great tutorial on how to fix this issue without the original step by step video. Well done and great outcome 👏

Thanks a lot. I was have a random stalling out issue on my '09 R55 Clubman. I found your video while searching for fixes. My problem turned out to look exactly like your bad solder joint shown at 8:30. It has been running great for two months now.

We have had this random engine cutting out in our MY11 Cooper S for some time now & it got to the point where we weren't driving the car after it stopped in the middle of a major intersection. The engine always restarted after a few minutes & then drove home like nothing was wrong & I have been searching for this one for a while. Like you, I also replaced the fuel filter & was trying not to just throw parts at it until it was fixed as it gets way too expensive. So happy I found your video today as there was a dry solder joint at the low volume fuel pump relay pin exactly as you showed. It really is a love-hate relationship with a Mini. So good to drive & so annoying when it breaks. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

I am so happy to see this video. I have been having the same issue and haven't been able to track it down. Replaced fuel pump and filter already. Will check this weekend.

First, thank you for do this valuable video and thank you for the explanation that is narrated in it in my case I am the owner of an R56 S n18, the first diagnosis at the workshop after the engine that sounded like a potato, was to replace the high pressure fuel pump, (1.4K€) not seeing it clearly on my own, I ended up here and the problem was solved in less than 4 hours and at the same time I changed the fuel pump and the high pressure pump (€40 amazon, €600 ebay) The Car is running better than ever and I am happy to saved myself a repair that would have left the car stopped for months in a workshop due to bad diagnoses and spending thousands of euros, obviously the solder on the fuse was damaged and thoroughly re-soldering the relay was more than enough thanks for the video again, and to those who have this problem in the future, without fear and with a little patience it can be achieved without problem greetings from barcelona r4ulfpv

Well it worked for me... After a new HPFP was installed the car died again so I found your vídeo... Got the Fuse Box out and there it was the relay connection was broken and toasted... Replaced the welding and after 2500km the car is working like a charm no more problems with the stalling! Thanks!

Thank you for sharing what you found! So many videos are just left with searching for problems!

Your video was terrific. I fixed my 2014 Mini Cooper S Convertible. I bought a JBE module from the junkyard to practice on. I would recommend. Get the junction box open can cause some board damage. Thank you for the video.

You’re an absolute legend! Had the same issue. Followed your instructions and now all fixed and working. Thank you 🙏

Thank you !!. About to take my ute and trailer to town to collect my wife's R56 Cooper S. I diagnose fuel pressure or crank angle sensor by how it behaves in the carpark. Based on internet research, I'm very confident this will be it. Great video. Thanks

Hi there and great, great thanks for the video. I own R56 2009 Mini Cooper and had this issue for years. Mine was stalling after first start in the morning once the engine was cold. This happened mostly during cold season, very rarely during the summer. No dealer could help as there were no codes. I removed the board as per your video (no easy it was though) but was not brave enough to split the sandwich. I took magnifying glass and examined pins of the low pressure fuel pump relay. Guess what - a middle pin in a first row had no solder at all! I need to look for some electronic workshop now with precise soldering expert to fix it. Btw. This issue should be a recall. Hundreds of users if no thousands report it and the BMW seats quiet. Anyone who experienced the Mini stalling at the middle of a intersection or in a heavy traffic knows that this is a life threatening issue. BMW - shame on you!

Thank you very much for this video. Crazy how I went through exactly what you went through. Car would randomly die and I couldn't figure it out. I replaced the fuel filter and put a new fuel pump and still wouldn't start. Now doing research and came across this video. SURE ENOUGH I took apart the junction box and that relay had a broken solder weld. Crazy. Thank you again! 13 mini JCW.

I think ever used Mini owner, or mini owner in general can agree with how you feel in the beginning of the video. Got my 09 a year ago and the first year was rough. We are going through another rough patch right now, but there is light at the end of the tunnel. 🤣

Just fixed this very issue after finding your video... A cracked solder joint, exactly the same as yours. Managed to get the whole thing done in an evening (was a bit harder to access being RHD!). Not a big job as you say, managed to get it out, apart, fixed and back in, all within a few hours. Fix wise, only did it at the weekend, but so far so good 👍 Thanks for taking the time to make the video, you are an absolute hero my man!

Thank you so much for this, only did this repair yesterday (still undergoing testing on the road) but definitely had a crack on the solder at the relay part of the board. Will update when more testing done but all symptoms pointer to this anyway, cheers

Well after fighting this issue for about 6 months and calling my mini all sorts of bad names. I replaced the Hi-Pressure fuel pump, the low-pressure fuel pump and both relays on the JBE board. I also has some defective coil issues (after market - supposed to be high end units, I guess not). I also had an alternator fail during this time! I finally saw your you tube and gave it a try! I tested the theory before I tried the board... I bypassed the connector on the low pressure pump and inserted 12V from the rear power (powers off with the ignition) socket and it ran flawlessly for over a week. oh and the solder joint on mine made yours look good. 😀

Great video. fortifies my research on the issue as i has similar sypmtoms. most forums revealed it was the relay as per your video. i will be working on mine next week hopefully.

Thank you soooooooooooo much. I was about to remove the fuel pump. Then I saw your video and it was exactly the right diagnosis. It took less than 2 hours and the mini is running well again. Thank you very much.

Thank you so much for such a brilliant solution! That's exactly what it was. Will keep you posted once is all back together.🤗

Glad I ran across this video shipmate, been troubleshooting this problem for a day and a half and now this makes perfect sense.

Thank you for sharing, I have a r57 with the same issue. I was about to start changing all kinds of parts, I’ll give this a go. Also, as a dealer technician, I know this would cost a client well over $1,500 +! You’re the man!!!! I’ll let you know how it went. Thanks again:)

Hey Thanks. Glad you are immersed in Mini fun. Bad fun cars. I have a lot of Mini customers in the shop frustrating way to make a living.

Started to have the same issue this month on a 2010 R57 with 250k km , dying silently (not the usual stall you can feel) at stops/roundabouts when it's rather hot outside, and at least after 30min driving on a cold start. Works really well otherwise. Started with a timing chain rattle at 180k km, and that's where i'm at now with -4000$ in my wallet after all i've done on it. Can't wait to fix this and have a head gasket to do in a couple 10k's, or what else. Still gonna check around for other things that could cause this, but i guess this is it sadly. Thanks a lot for the video.

Amazing! My R56 started stalling with no CEL's this summer. Mine was frustrating as it was only driven for short trips and therefore might go hundreds of miles in between episodes. But they were always the same. Engine just lost power and stalled when it had just been running great. I pulled the JBE out last night and sure enough one solder joint was broken and the trace was starting to get dark from the heat. Thanks to you I was able to complete the repair in under an hour. The nearest dealer for me is 300 miles so this really was a miracle. In hindsight I think I would have changed the repair a little. Once the pins are cut the sections would be easy to heat up and pull out. I think I would have just replaced them with some solid core wire. They moved around on me alot and it was hard to tell when I had good contact between them. Time will tell if this fixes my issue but I was thrilled to see that solder joint after cutting the board apart. I can't thank you enough for taking the time to post this. One other point. Pull the large black relay before trying to remove the plastic casing.

I literally just bought a new (used) Mini and this happened. I thought I had a lemon and now I have hope! Thank you!

Hello again. So the Mini ran great for three months, then died on my son again. Decided I better go through with looking at that relay after all. Sure enough, the pin on the relay looked like crap. Touched up the solder, then everything went to hell. Had a terrible time with putting those cut pins back together, and ended up messing up one of the solder traces in the process. Did find another used assembly on eBay and got it installed. So far, so good. Hope it doesn't have the same issue, but next time I will try to cut the pins more in the middle, and be more careful. It definitely isn't easy, but I believe it would have taken care of the random dying problem. Thanks for your help.

Man you saved my car. Three days ago the engine stalled 3 times, random speeds,.... so I did remove the box, cut the 30 pins, and same thing, relay pin was not ok.... Now two days on and it runs ok :) Thanks

This fixed it on my 2010 r56 thank you so much sir for your video

Had a similar problem on a Mercedes 2002 SLK 320 left taillight assembly. Many solutions listed on UTube but none fixed the problem permanently. Save yourself time and money by replacing the fuse assembly. I did the same thing with the taillight. You will find out this fuse assembly is used on other minis' that did not have an issue like the individual in this video has. it is all about the production run of the vendor of this assembly. In the case of my SLK 320 I replaced the original taillight assembly with one made in 2001. That was three years ago and it is still working. I got my taillight off of EBay and you can do the same with the fuse assembly. Just get the part number and match it to a used one. I paid $53 USD when an OEM was $259 dollars.

I like the introduction spot on ....

Thank you so much my guy getting my coop back on the road

I love this.... my wife's car did the same exact thing.... I will no doubt follow your technique... Thx Bro

Thanks for the video. 2006 cooper S, sounds like the same problem. Already replaced the fuel pump and filter. Any idea if I should be able to hear a click or something from the RELAY when it's working properly? I bought a new one. After going through all that trouble I will just replace it.

Yes!!! My fuse box gets hot and it starts “clicking” when turn the air conditioner, barely any clicking. So after a couple days I found a couple sites to purchase a reconditioned fuse box that’s compatible. So I will replace it, and look at the board, repair with a soldering iron and keep as a backup.

My Mini died in a similar manner today as I was pulling out of the kids school 😰. Imagine the mayhem that would have ensued had the car not rolled off safely across the road to the right. Gave me a big scare. Will keep a watch for the next few days.

Yes it's a love-hate relationship sometimes minis really suck especially the brittle plastic parts after they get 10 years old but there are a lot of fun cheers from Atlantic Canada👍😎🇨🇦

Great video! I feel like if i ever have this issue your video will get me through it 👍

Hi vetonvettes757, Thanks for this video! Our R56 2013 cooper s had the same problems - cutting out when hot then restarting after 10 minutes or so gradually getting more frequent over a period of time. I followed your instructions and found the issue you described - cracked/dry soldered joint on the relay terminal. I resolded the relay terminal to the pcb board but also followed the pcb track with a high temperature insulated link wire as the track looked as if it had been getting hot from the bad joint, anyways were now six months on and the car is still trouble free!! Thanks again 👍👍

Thanks for the video, I hope you may help me with my problem, I have a f56 1.5turbo 2017, I'm having intermittent problems with my low pressure fuel pump, sometimes it delivers, mostly it doesn't. Do you think I could have the same problem? Thanks in advance

Dude your video was awesome on the low pressure fuel pump relay... the presentation was superb if you was a woman I could give you a 10, thank you for the help.. Another mini hater I mean lover...

Good video. So i have a 2010 that was running great. One day it died out like you have said but it will not start back up. It just cranks and cranks. I want to fix the JBE but its weird because it wont start at all like yours would. I put power to the LPFP and it runs. So pump is good. Weird thing is when i put a power probe to the fuel pump and turn it on it still wont start.

Had a similar issue on the same fuse panel. Lost power to the cabin blower motor and turned out to be an over heated spade terminal. The cause of the over heat was a low resistance circuit within the blower fan itself because over time the carbon dust from the motor brushes had completely coated the insulating material holding the brushes allowing a low resistance path to the motor metalwork. Cleaned the insulator up, cleaned the spade terminal on the fuse board up and blower now works fine again.

Does this affect newer models too?? I have a 2015 paceman and it shut down a couple of days ago... no warning lights or anything. Could it be the same issue?

I have an R60 and I’ve been having issues with the front wipers not working at all. Everything has been checked wiring, relays, connectors, column switch and everything seems fine but still the junction fuse box is not sending ground to the wipers relays. Could this be a similar issue? Or related to the JBE at all?

I don’t believe I’m watching again your brave& u giggling dont be scared! Lol I really hope this doesn’t happen!

Hey man! Just found your video! I am going to check this out on my mothers car. Its a MINT 2004. She has been through hell with this car. I did all the "dealer" recommended fixes...new fuel pump and filter...new gas cap...new computer...new head valves and rockers....i found a ring etched in the cylinder wall on cylinder 2...so used lower end installed....after 6 months off the road....IT STILL WOULD JUST DIE!!!! took to mini dealer an hour away....they diagnosed new pugs and new coil(it had a new Mopar coil since it's a damn dodge neon engine!) they said mini coils are better...lol!! STILL DIES!!! if I try your fix and it works.....I OWE YOU ONE!! FINGERS CROSSED!!

Man I think you just fixed my dad's mini lol he's been at wit's end with this thing for over a year

Dam crazy had the same symptoms and didt want to challenge my self to opening this box and putting it back together so I went to a pic a part and found mini with the same box and swaped it and boom it worked thanks man this video saved me money fersure

Thank you for the information. Is "ep2f b3g1s" engine N18 compatible?

Hi buddy's I'm in deep trouble. One mini cooper starting trouble but cranking ok. Fault code is High pressure fuel plausibility pressure too low. What is the complaints ?. Any realy or high pressure pumb. High pressure pumb is very expensive. We don't have spare pumb. Please give me some suggestion

Other people are saying the fuel pump relay could be the problem. But only a dealer can program this. Would changing the whole JBE take care of this? And would this be something I can do myself or am I going to be forced to total the car as the labor on this, I understand, will be almost more than the value of the car.

Hi I have an R52 2005 Mini Cooper with a similar problem. Should I look into doing this board repair?

THANK YOU - gonna apply to my daughter's Mini - old git, UK

Godbless and thank you for this 🙏

Thanks for making this video! It solved my problem! BUT now one my rear windows does not roll down.. I have an R57. Any idea how to resolve? It must be something with the JBE right? Thank you!

I have no code and it dies on me and it also has no strength while pushing pedal. I am still trying to find what is the real deal, due that they are charging me for a transmission issues. So I am doing my research better. I am thankful for this videos, hoping to find it.

I have a question when your car would stall. Did the rpms drop very low and then struggle and then shut off? Because this is what I’m experiencing I wonder if this could fix my mini finally!!!

I am having same problem, I replaced the fuse panel with a used one, still no luck, and it won’t let me connect to ews module for some reaso.

Did you say you replaced the fuel pump? Can't hear it well in that part of the video. Having issues with my 2011 R56 S. Turning off after engine low power light. Car shop says its the JBE Module.

Is it possible to desolder the pins between the boards rather than cut them?

Hey man, I don't know where to ask, but you seem to be an r56 expert. My fan doesn't come on. I replaced the fan with a new one. New coolant temp sensor. Seems to be working and reading the right temps. Hard starting stopped. Issue is when the temp sensor is plugged in, the fans do not come on at all. With the sensor unplugged the fan comes on full blast and stays on. So, the circuit works, the fan works and the sensor works. Could it be the AUX waterpump? For now, unplugging the temp sensor means it won't overheat, but it will run in limp, poorly. Thoughts?

So far the repair is holding up. No longers stalls. But we are gonna drive it at least 150 miles before we put the covers back on. However we have another issue that you may be able to shed some light. I dont know how to contact you other than you tube so I'll post it here. The rear lights are not coming on when turning the headlights at night. They only come on when applying the breaks. Signal lights OK. Fog lights OK. Two of the parking lights are also not comning on and one license plate light is also not coming on. I tested the lights bulbs and sockets. They are all fine. After doing some research it looks like the FRM foot module is the issue. As the baterry dies once and we had to jump it once which may have cause the issue. The closest cooper dealership is 6 hrs away and no one close will touch it. Mini suggested taking it to a BMW dealer 45 mins away. They will harge 200 just to troubleshoot and God knows how much for programming it. There are places that will program it for you on the web assuming the unit is not damaged. Is sending the module out a good idea or should I spend some needed cash at the dealership? Comments welcome!!😉

2013 R60, the sound JUST went. Number 5 wire.... what do i do with it? Is it the connector, if so which end?

Hey man i really need your help. After changing fuel filter and new oem pump the problem was the same with yours...but mine was a little black on the solder point not just cracked. I took it apart and i resoldered it and then i did all the connections between the relay board and the other piece. But once i put it back in the car i get all kind of service notifications on the board like steering wheel, abs, power windows etc the car cranks but does not start....its like no power going to the pump. Do you think i should change the relay of the pump as well ?

Is there a fuse location for the low pressure pump?

Is there a way to confirm it's the low pressure fuel pump that is causing the problem, before pulling the card and soldering?

VetOnVettes757, have you had this problem? I am working on a neighbor's 2009 Mini Cooper. It sat and the battery died otherwise it started normally before. I installed a new battery. The car will not start. The start button will not depress. Is there any reason other than a bad start button that will not let the button depress? My tools are being shipped so I have a few screwdrivers and a pair of pliers.

Having the same issue with my 2015 R60, do you think this would correct the problem?

I have 2003 cooper 1.4d, I have random stall problems, sometimes 5 times in only few miles, could this also be the issue on mine?

Hey what kind of error codes did you have when you got this issue?? i have the same issue car just dies and after about 30 minutes to an hour it works again. the erros i got was: 2BE9, Cylinder injection shutdown: Low pressure in the high pressure system. 2C57, low charging pressure and/or not plausible Mine is a 2013 R57 with a N18

Having the same problem with my son's 09 S-model. I am going to do your procedure, but am a little confused about what you did when you cut the pins and seperated the boards. Do they get resoldered together where you cut them when putting it back together, or what? Maybe it will be clear when I pull it out, but I wanted to get a better idea beforehand. Thanks for the vid, it gives me a starting point to fix this problem child.

So, I just followed the EXCELLENT directions in the video and replaced the low pressure fuel pump relay and it drives much better, no stalling, problem fixed! However, after reinstalling the unit the and then the battery after days of being disconnected, the turn signals do not work and the car tells me doors are ajar when they are closed. Anyone know what to do next?

this part number does not look like the one in your video . I am looking it up wrong?

My 2011 ran great for first 2 weeks... LOL. I can fix most anything on now.. Hang in there!

I have a 2009 MINI Cooper convertible with about 59K miles and a mobile mechanic changed the fuel filter and now the MINI will not start. Initially, I was having no trouble. I just was trying to be a good MINI owner and get the fuel filter changed since I do not believe that it had been done before. Any ideas what happened and how this can be fixed? I believe that the fuel pump is fine. There were never any symptoms of it failing. I think that something happened with the filter change.

LOL. the opening quote is the best! so true. Im going to copy and share it on Facebook.. LOL.

When your car died did it throw a half power engine light because mine is driving fine when it wants then randomly will die then starts right back up

Thank you

Got a 07 mini s turns over just won’t start done added gas need help or advise

I'm having a problem with my Mini Cooper the key broke awhile back and I duct-tape the little sensor on to it at work fine for about a year I got into start at 1 morning it wouldn't start went to the dealership bought a $200 key finally started up it run good for 3 days and then it just act like it won't start and like it's you can smell a little gas just barely faint and I don't know if it's flooding or what but they told me all it needed was a key and I still haven't got it running help help help

My 2012 R58 JCW with a N-14 engine starts when cold or warm but not when hot. It never cuts out when driving. When hot it does not crank at all. Is that the problem you had?

Good find vet on vettes

Just curious... Was there a reason you didn't just remove the solder from the posts and then resolder them back on the board? As opposed to cutting all the posts and then soldering the halves back together?

Hi thanks for the great video, I know it’s now a year old and probably won’t get replied to but I’ve been having issues with my r56. I recently had a stall issue where my car randomly died and refused to start up for 10 mins. But what’s different is my Engine light came on in limp mode and I got a “low fuel pressure code” so I’m guessing my problems different. I’m gonna replace the HPFP this week then test the In fuel pump but if not I’ll be looking to do this. Would this issue with the JME cause my issues or is it more likely my HPFP than the relay? Thanks

Can you share me some photos of the card, I need to know what kind of transistor use de card.

We have exactly the same issue, done what you’ve suggested and still the same 😫 any other ideas? We’ve changed every sensor we can think of on the engine 🤦‍♂️

That relay is for low pressure or hight pressure fuel pump? I wonder why no code. Usually it should give some low pressure codes.

Foot Well Module Recall on 2010 to 2013. I just got the letter. My 2010 stalls. I did everything Utube said to do, including cut open the junction box!

I have a 2011 mini Cooper sport did the whole engine timing chain injectors. Also high-pressure fuel pump not just one but three and turbo mechanic still says it’s the high-pressure fuel pump car turn on maybe five minutes later turns off give it a few minutes maybe 30 minutes comes on, but it will only last 5 to 10 minutes . I spent over $6000 this past month on it and I’m tired. It’s a great car but I can’t find anybody to fix it. Is there a way that I can email you some videos so you can take a look at the videos

I have a 2009 mini clubman s turbo and I tried the fuse and the relay

what if you just replace the whole module ?

You should name it Phoenix!

Same issue here. I'll be tackling this fix this weekend. Do you know the part number or link to the relay to purchase in case I need it? Oh nevermind: NEC PHILIPPINES EP2F-B3G1S

Oh my God totally scary but I’m gonna watch his whole video and share no way I would do this but you are funny

What about the black connector in bottom corner is hard