Thank you, goodness.

this guy has so many clickbait videos lmao

Thank god

I think he says this at 6:30?

2:51

I am well aware. Thank You for commenting! I do hope you enjoyed the video. :-)

I agree. The title is very different to the video. Bit of a shame. Better title would have been “things to watch out for when using resilient channels”

I completely agreed more with what said, just having my bedroom flat sound proof using this system.

​@@soundproofguide Than why make click bait?

Big time click bait. I'll never watch another of his videos.

Actually the video sucks...very bad advice.

@@21degrees why do you say that? Do you have experience with soundproofing ceilings?

@@MatthewAtkinson I have experience and resilient channel works great for low frequency noise isolation. Low frequency problems are the ones that bother people. High frequencies tend to stay on the same room, sometimes high frequencies leak through windows so know the frequencies of your problem and do research with someone more knowledgeable than "Soundproof guide"...best of luck.

You put your vapour barrier up before your resilient channels. Good luck with your project.

I honestly don't think that would be enough. It would probably be less work to unscrew your resilient channel, then tear down the drywall and reapply the channel. Good luck and let me know how it all works out!

I'm planning on using resilient channel, 5/8", green glue, 5/8 " and the manufacture spec says you'd need to install channel on 16" centers to handle two 5/8" sheets. From what I read a "room in a room" would likely be better in your case if you have the space for it as resilient channel or "res bar" as it's also known is only really good for footsteps and blunt impacts, but not great for music and voices. I just finished installing 1/2", green glue, 1/2" over an existing ceiling *I didn't want to rip down 3/4" of plaster" and it worked good for voices and music. Check out HomeRenoVisionDIY for some good info on soundproofing and renos in general. A new product on the market is SONOpan and I'm looking at that for my future "mancave" library/study project.

@@Poindexters-Obsession a lot of people do as long as it is 30-50 cm from the ac unit

Don’t do that!! Resilient channel always needs to be installed perpendicular to the joists.I use Type X and double drywall. It gives the assembly its strength. If you go parallel you’ll weaken your ceiling.

Another case is that you're trying to have minimal vibrations from the joist. If you install the RC parallel to the joist, you have more of the surface area touching it. Perpendicular it would only be touching where it crosses over thus minimizing any sound vibration transference.

Follow manufactures manual and don't get to Re invent the wheel. Perpendicular is what it's stated. There's many reasons for this which I don't feel like explaining.

Exactly what I'm trying to figure out and that's the option I was thinking about. Did you find any answers?

Best way is probably to leave a 5mm gap and fill with acoustic caulk, something elastic and air tight.

As far as I can tell, it's not bad as it decouples but having more than 3 layers is a waste of material's efficacy. It's not "Best" because you want to have a wall of 3 layers: One mass (drywall, can be double or even tripled but it still counts as one layer cause it's all sandwiched together) on one side; one "air" or insulation in the center (as wide as you reasonably can) and another mass (drywall) on the other side. Rod Gervais calls it M-A-M (mass-air-mass see his book or go to "gearslutz"). Also you only need RC on one side to isolate the rigid mechanical connection. The title of this video should be "read Rods book"

There's two types of sounds, there's the high pitch sounds and deeper vibrations like walking and footsteps. From what I've been researching, you need to have a couple sounds proofing methods to address both types of sounds, hence the insulation and resilient channels.

I got same problem what did you do? then did you leave the the exciting drywall and install resilient bar on top of it and layers of dry wall on top of resilient bar

@@TheAlikesen yes, I just had the resilient channel installed over the existing drywall as a recommendation by a local city engineer as he reasoned that the extra mass would help. After foaming the can lights it did help considerably with talking, voice and even walking noise from the upstairs unit. Running and stopping by kids upstairs is slightly quieter but still loud. We used 5/8" sheet rock over resilient channel and tried using self tapping screws that were "1 so they wouldn't touch the sheet rock, but we ended up having to use 1 1/4" screws as the 1" wouldn't grab, so the screws will end up touching the old drywall layer. We ended up paying approximately $5,000 for the 1,000 sf apartment, so not cheap. Blowing insulation in the 12" joises (already had 3" insulation) was going to cost $4,000 plus repair the holes left behind, so we opted not to add more insulation. On another apartment we ended up doing the same thing except for we added 1/2" fiberboard, then RC channel, and finally 5/8" sheet rock. It performs better; however, hard to compare as this floor has floor trusses, 12" fiberglass plus 4" rock wool in the ceiling. I hope this helps, noise is annoying and a major growing problem that everyone thinks they ignore, but leads to an irritable society.

@@functionalvanconversion4284 you should've asked a carpenter or a contractor instead of your local city engineer. The reason why the running noise is still loud is because you are not supposed to have the resilient channel mounted directly to the ceiling drywall because since the entire resilient channel is in contact with a hard surface(ceiling), it will vibrate along with it.

@@wiiiz3 I tried, I know several, but they don't know much about noise transmission around where I live. I tried contacting the supplier of the RC channel locally and he referred me to the drywall installer. I have spent the last 8 years calling noise solution suppliers (I spoke with their engineers, I also spoke with drywall engineers) back east on the west coast and or locations that are densely populated. Everyone I talked to used the same general information regarding STC ratings, IIC ratings, and installation methods. So when the engineer (which was really helpful) confirmed my previous information, it seemed ok. I am glad we spent the funds to test the scenario as it works well, but I think people need to be realistic about expectations as a 12" adjacent TGI us going to transmit noise to a lower unit short of adding a decoupled wall. The other unit we did with the floor trusses and the soundboard I discuss above also went over existing drywall, but it's 24" floor trusses with more insulation (including mineral wool) then you add soundboard that provides some absorption, possibly decoupling, and you get a better solution. Removing the existing drywall in both units would have been another $2,000 per unit , and both projects were already out of budget including the repairs we had to undertake. It's really difficult to make a margin as a landlord with all appliances, maintenance, and repairs involved. The only margin really is what you save with your grind off your body:). On the next remodel, I will be installing mass loaded vinyl on an upper floor and comparing the results. Thanks for your input as I am always in the middle of something, just finished a foamboard/mineral wool/blow insulation project last week which was done for noise and ice damming.

​@@functionalvanconversion4284 Demo is easy. Why not have just done it by yourself??

Stagger studs on 2 by 6 plates, use resilient sound isolation clips and a hat channel, then ass loaded vinyl, then 5/8 drywall with green glue and another layer of drywall perhaps a different type or thickness.

This would not be advised.

Haha Thanks!

the whole point of using hat channel is reduce impact noise. If you don't use sound isolation clips, there is no point.

Not really, especially if there’s a window. Most noise will come through the window. The RC will work its best on a ceiling to prevent footstep noise.

Resilient channel has to be added on the studs for it to work best.

Not on any meds*

Hi Crystal, The MLV and Green Glue and added drywall will certainly help! It would be a bonus however to add the resilient channel on the ceiling to reduce the vibration sound coming down but if that is not possible the added drywall will certainly help in noise reduction if installed correctly.

Resilient channel, Hat channel on clips are all bad news over existing drywall. It essentially makes a drum and "can" amplify sound (triple leaf effect), however there are rumors that cutting air holes on the top and bottom of each bay would mitigate the triple leaf effect . Better to take off drywall ad mineral wool in the cavities and do clips with 25 Gauge hat channel; for example RSIC-1, Whisper clips, or the one I use quite a bit is RSIC-1 Low profile because you only lose 1/2" before drywall versus 2" or so. The for the low profile hat channel runs parallel to the studs or joists. A 7/8 peanut screw through the hemmed edge of the channel just above the clip prevents slipping down. Then do one or two layers of 5/8 type X non lightweight drywall on to the channels. I might add the sound will cruise around the wall and get through the ceiling to some degree, especially if there is no fiber insulation in the ceiling.

@@jonwikan3986 Why can't I just use RC1-Pro Resilient Channell mounted to the steel studs? Much cheaper than the clips

@@nomad33138 you absolutely can use resilient channel on steel studs. Your stc rating will be much lower and there is no room for error if you hit a stud it's really bad news. Also the resilient channel will not stop lower frequency nearly as well. Low frequency is really challenging to stop and will be more expensive.

i think the walls are already decoupled because this is a newer condo and i know there is 7 inches space between the two walls indicating that they decoupled. Maybe, i just need to add more mass and layer of quiet rock with green glue and forget about the resilient channel or clips. Maybe, layer of MLV

Oh gosh, I started writing and got carried away. Hopefully this is helpful to you. Summary- Eliminate all recessed lights. Seal any penetrations, including gaps behind crown molding. Wrap boxes in acoustical putty from attic side; acoustical sealant caulk around box edges from room side. Add a layer of 5/8” drywall-channel, green glue type product, or sound rated drywall. Caulk that layer’s seams with acoustical sealant and allow appropriate time for curing before mudding and taping. Stop to re-evaluate between each step. Reinstall your ceiling lights and fans once you’ve hit the point that you’re satisfied.- Resilient channel when done right is very effective. Doing it right involves properly sealing all joints with acoustical sealant, and not mechanically coupling by missing the correct part of the channel with the screws. Ideally, you don’t want a “triple-leaf” system, which means three leaves of drywall. It allows resonances of specific frequencies to pass through. If your attic does not have a floor, then adding a channel with drywall below the existing drywall will make it a double leaf system. So this is fine. (More over-if there’s insulation laid atop the drywall, I doubt you want to drop it into your living space with the drywall!) Just make sure you locate your studs accurately, lay out everything accurately with chalk lines before and as you install, and rent or buy a hand-operated drywall lift to preserve your shoulders. However, once you’ve improved the ceiling you are very likely to note the next weak link. Soundproofing is a total-system affair. So windows, doors and walls will all become noticeable weak links. So your expectations may be too high for the ceiling alone. To do it right, keep reading. I think your best bet is to first seal any ceiling penetrations. Remove any can-lights, patch the drywall, and install receptacle boxes with acoustical putty pads. The putty pad needs to seal tightly, so take care to vacuum/wipe up loose insulation dust around it. (Do not putty pad recessed light boxes, as this is a potential fire hazard! Just change to a receptacle box with flush mounted ceiling lights.) You should caulk with acoustical sealant around the perimeter of the receptacle box from he underside before installing or replacing the new lights or ceiling fans. Next level is to seal all air gaps from the top. This can be as extreme as vacuuming out all the loose fill insulation, or as easy as pulling up the fiberglass batts, depending on the insulation type. With loose fill types, you could probably get away with sweeping it into piles that are out of the way of where you’re sealing with foam. You need to see all the joints between walls and ceilings. There is an ~$200 2-component closed cell foam kit that’s great for this purpose. But it’s something you need to fully understand proper safety practices to use, so likely best left to a pro. Everything has to be prepared as you only get about 5 seconds or something grace period between shots before the nozzle starts to dry up and need replacement. If doing yourself, you need a disposable full-body suit, safety goggles, and an organic vapor respirator that seals properly to your face. Beards need to be shaved. Lots of guys don’t care, but brain and lung damage from fumes is otherwise certainly possible. Same for permanent itchiness of skin or permanently ruined clothes. Scary stuff aside, Matt Risinger has a good video or two on this. Without sealing air gaps, you’ll never realize the potential of the existing drywall. It’s likely 4x-20x the sound coming through as what it could be. Replace the insulation after. But if you had to vac out old stuff, the cost could be too prohibitive for this step. The good part is that it goes quick once you’ve done all the prep and identified all the places you need to seal. If you have attic-routed air vents, either HVAC or exhaust fans for kitchen/bath, I’m afraid I don’t have great suggestions. These could be insurmountable issues. For HVAC, you could eliminate an attic-mounted furnace and install ductless mini-split systems. For kitchen/bath exhaust, maybe you could use PVC pipes instead of metal ones. It’s not a point of sound entry that’s easily addressed, so far as I know. Alright, so this “solution” is getting stupidly complex and difficult, and attics are among the most miserable places on earth. But sealing all air gaps up there WILL give the best results, as it blocks direct sound paths through the drywall, and also blocks direct flanking paths down into the walls. All that said, I’d definitely still add drywall. I would just use Green Glue or a similar product unless you have uneven plaster or popcorn ceilings, and skip the resilient/hat channel. Either is fine, honestly, but the channel requires a much higher level of measuring precision. Use a drywall lift. Cut the panels so that there is a 1/4” seam around each one, and fill those 1/4” seams with a fillet of acoustical sealant before mudding and taping. (1/4” is minimum necessary for long-term performance of most any sealant.) Use 5/8” drywall. Or skip the green glue and use 5/8” acoustically rated drywall, which has that type of technology integrated. Whatever you do, first address penetrations and eliminate or minimize them wherever possible first. Seal anything with an appropriate acoustical sealant. (Suitability specs vary widely on these products, so I’m afraid you might need to do some digging. Ones for seams between panels is rarely suitable for penetrations, and vice versa. Some like USG’s is broadly applicable, but can never be allowed to get colder than like 50degF.) Then re-evaluate. You’ll probably be very happy that you started there. Best of luck! Planes are very noisy! Lots of low frequencies that are difficult to absorb. And sound comes through far more than the ceiling alone. So temper your expectations before committing to a difficult and somewhat expensive project. And be absolutely methodical about sealing all air gaps as that’s the low hanging fruit. -added thought: the most effective systems are multiple layers of heavy mass with an air gap in-between that is loosely-but-fully filled with a porous absorber like acoustical fiberglass. If you lowered the ceiling by adding a second frame below the first and filled the voids of the studs with insulation, it’s probably going to get much better results. But we all know lowering ceiling height, even just 4”, is probably a total non-starter. Figured I’d mention it though. Unfortunately there’s not much depth for absorption materials using RC, but you could probably add 1” Owens Corning 705 compressed fiberglass board in that space and have a significant increase in effectiveness.

Thank You for that reply it helps a lot . I need to read it carefully and spend some time with it.

My thought was to integrate one perhaps 2 layers of mass loaded vinyl in addition to the fiberglass bats into the system. Any experience with that combination?

@@Malibucompany MLV will be tricky to glue up. It is usually placed over joists sort of floppy and then isolation clips and 25 G hat channels. Then two layers 5/8 type X. A drywall lift and helper makes it an easy job on your body. That said MLV or lead sheeting is often sandwiches into soundproof doors. You could also add a few layers of 5/8 drywall directly over existing drywall. Then you have walls, the sound will go around the ceiling. And yes recessed lights are bad for sound and insulation. The new flat LEDs that look like recessed lights work. Putty the electrical boxes with fire putty or use the kind that have the transformer that can go above the drywall then just seal the wire hole. I wonder if one might put the MLV in the attic, stopping some sound before it is even reaches the ceiling.

Hows your access in the attic above?

Just make sure you install it correctly. Watch the entire video and you should be fine. 😉

I’ll tell you why that way doesn’t work. If the first panel vibrates from the joists the channel then transfers that vibration to the other because it is touching both layers along the entire surface of the channel. It is acting like one joined material. With the channel directly against the joist the vibration is mitigated at that plane. It barely transfers to the first layer of board then onto the other materials.

You can disagree all you want but the triple leaf effect is real and not everyone gets away with it, especially if there are speakers or instruments involved. It's a big no no in the industry to put decoupling technology over an existing wall because of the risks of turning your wall into a giant drum/amplifier. So in testing putting isolation channels over an existing wall loses you 13 db versus removing the drywall. A triple leaf is good if the air gap is large, think 3 1/2".

Precisely.

5/8" drywall is stiffer and usually has glass fiber in it so for only one layer you can do 24" centers on the resbar. If you want to do *resilient channel, 5/8" drywall, green glue, 5/8" drywall* you'd need to install the resbar on 16" centers as per manufactures guidelines.

because if you put the resilient channel directly onto the existing drywall, it will vibrate with the drywall because the entire length of the resilient channel is in contact with a hard surface.

Nope. You need to decouple AT the stud surface. If you add a channel on top of existing drywall all you’re doing is joining the new layer of drywall to the old.

I was trying something different. Thanks for the feedback.

Also don't understand why you can't put over 1st drywall, if it is already existing. I get how the first layer of drywall is not decoupled, but the second layer would be decoupled, right? There might be situations where someone didn't want to rip out existing drywall. If you were starting from scratch and doing 2 layers of course it would be better to decouple both layers.