At this point you would be plain stupid to not be subscribed to SouthMainAutoRepair. This guy is the best. He shows us how to avoid trouble down the road.

You really go the extra mile on all of your jobs. I have never seen a more through brake job. Granted I do 99% of my repair work, you're the kind of mechanic I would trust my cars to. I have yet to find a mechanic like you in ohio.

I hadn't done a disk brake job in 25 years; just did my 2008 GMC Sierra brakes using your video. I found a number of good videos for this brake job, but I like yours best. Your camera is in the right place, there's plenty of light and your explanations are right on. Thanks for helping me save $500.

29 November 1019 - At 72 years, I’m teaching myself automotive mechanics after finally giving up on trusting anyone else ever again to do an honest, affordable, workmanlike job on my vehicles. I very much appreciate this video quality - lighting, volume, closeups, no crap background music, no wasted time, etc. I also, just as much, appreciate Eric’s work ethic, something obviously sorely missing from a good part of the industry. One small detail at which I was surprised - Eric sandblasted and lubed UNDER the pad mounting hardware (to prevent rusting - a good thing) but did not lube on the reverse - where the pads actually ride as they slide in and out. Evidence how he had to bang the inside pad at 2:56 to free it because it was seized in place. Every other video I’ve seen on pad replacement stresses this detail as important to ensure pads move freely. A detail I found interesting - Eric lubed the actual contact points of the caliper rather than the entire backs of the pads. I’ve never seen this in the dozens of videos I’ve watched on the subject. 6 of one, half a dozen of other, I suppose, although it seems simpler to just lube the entire back surface of the pads as I’ve seen every other KZfaqr do. Maybe Eric’s method makes more sense, now that I think about it, because then you’re not taking a chance on mishandling the pads and getting grease on the faces as you insert them into the caliper. I’m a huge fan as of today!

I really admire how much time and effort Eric O. is willing to go in every car that rolls into his shop, he treats every car, truck like is his car. A + Rating and two thumbs way up

Watched some other videos before watching yours and yours was by far the most informative. I really appreciate all the tips and tricks on how to do it right.

thank you sir. I changed my pads and rotors on my sierra all by myself. I appreciate this video. Thanks again

Great video as always Eric. Always explaining things well and showing all the little details love it!!!!!

That was an excellent demonstration! Very good explanations and camera work. I'll be using this as a guide for my Silverado. Thank you.

Excellent video, you will be my first place to check for GM how to vids.

Thank You for this video. I had to help my son-in-law's friend replace rotors and front brakes, this was very helpful

Thanks for your videos. I appreciate the time you spend on these.

You broke out the BRAKE CLEAN with no intro music! I'm shocked! You let your YT fans down. LOL! ;)

Thanks for the video! I had the same problem on my 2014, inner shoes toast at 24K miles. I appreciate all of the tips you shared.

Thank you brother I'm 58 really appreciate your video 🙏✊🍻

It's people like you that help us dummies thanks

OK so whenever I need something done I always come back to you, that should tell you something you are the best around

thank you so much dude. this video helped me change out my pads and rotors for the first time. job went smooth. Thanks again.

Thanks for your easy to understand video. You saved me from being robbed from the dealer

Thanks for the video! Just finished replacing my pads and rotors. Your video was a huge help.

Great video with top tips! I like to crack the bleeders when pushing the pads back. It gets the dirty fluid out of the calipers. I also buy new bleeders(replace them every brake job) and replace the slider pin boots. The lower slider pins have a habit of seizing up in the brackets, even with lots of grease. Have same rust issues living here at the NJ shore.

Excellent detail. More than I've seen done.

Thank you for this video its very detailed your a great instructor. I know have complete confidence in doing the brake job on my truck ....thank you again for saving me a bunch of money ..mm

One video and you have a new Sub. Thank you for sharing a detailed and informative video

Thanks for taking your time to do your videos.

Best break job video on KZfaq 👍🏻

Always ready to learn with you sir thanks again for your videos

Great job, video & knowledge was great, might help if we had the Torque Specs too, but great tips & tricks shared along the way, keep up the great work!

GREAT VIDEO! Thanks for all your help!

Thanks man! Got a 2011 I’m going to work on! Appreciate you!

Like a BOSS. Good details and well done. I'm a fairy so I paint my calipers and often replace the bleeders to 1 way valves.

Excellent Video. Very helpful. Thank you so much!

nice video about to do my 2014 thanks for the video saved me a lot of change .

finally a guy with good info.

Nice work....the owner got a quality job.

Tip.. put the rotor on the studs inside out, clean the surface then flip it over an clean the other side.. Great video Eric...

As always, a great explanation! I just subscribed! Thanks!!

Great job, showed how easy it was.

Excellent video. Thank you!

You do excellent work, very rare sir........

Fantastic Video!!!! Thank you very much for the help!

Great video. I like how you go over the chemicals that you use. My boss doesn't provide any chemicals at my shop, Only hand soap and toilet paper. Like you said, there are a lot of different ways to do brake jobs. The best way is the one that doesn't come back,lol. Thanks for your time and effort.

Good video brotha, I gotta find that muscle grease now...thanks and good job!

Good heads up on the scope of work!

that's EXACTLY why I watch! well that and the level of levity................... :)

Great vid. I just use a c clamp to push the pistons back in. No bleeder. Never had a problem

thanks for the vid man!!! It sure helped me out.

good job Eric that's what I do with any breaks when I tackle them I use copper lbe for sliders anything that does the job is fine

An old one with details I've missed 👍

Very, very good video , informative and good description of the procedure. I wish I had the sandblasting cabinet to touch up the caliper hardware surfaces , ha. I do have a suggestion on the rust build up and prevention , MOVE TO SOUTH TEXAS , ha. I know that is not always possible but I don't see that chevy issue with the inboard pads. I get 80- 100 miles out of my Tahoe brakes and no rust issues.. Oh well someone has to shovel snow, just glad I don't. ha. Oh, don't forget to give Cheech back his cap.

Nice video, very informative.

Nice job!!! Thanks for the video

Got this and still have it in 2016 done this many times .

Great video, great tips, neat tools and well explained. I'm surprised at the mileage at when the brakes are in need of replacement however. I went 77,000 miles before changing brakes on my 2005 Silverado 3500 diesel, and I tow a trailer. Of course, I life in a mostly rust free State and drive conservatively.

Awesome video! Thankyou!

I took mine apart on my 18 Sierra and seen that the pads and rotors were in really good condition but my inside pad was seized in the hardware. So I bought a new hardware kit, changed the boots, wire wheeled the spot that Mr O sand blasted greased it up, installed new hardware and cleaned up ends of old pads and installed them. Back working perfect until next year. My truck only has 47,000 kms which is only 30,000 miles. $12.00 Cdn and a bit of time.

thnks man great vid

you the best man ,thank you

changed the pads on my '06 Rav4 and cleaned the caliper housing like you recommend. Then I backed it out of the garage and over the retaining wall because I forgot to pump the brakes to run the juice back in the recessed caliper before I backed out...ie. no brakes duh! Luckily no damage except my pride...

Oh man, I hit videos that are pre fluid film on the hub face, maybe I should stop this binge hahaha

AJ thanks for the video

Great job explaining how to do this job correctly. Only question I have what is the part number of the 3M tool for cleaning around the studs? I am a tool freak and I want one of those tools.

Thanks for the video.

Great video. I’ve never cleaned the rust off the caliper parts ever. I’m going to start doing that now. I’m looking at a 2013 Sierra 2500HD. 6.0 gas. What are some of the common usual problems with this generation truck? Thanks !

Good video thanks

You should drink a cold beer before and after each side to help protect your esophagus against dust just saying you can do what you want

If you ever get tired of doing you could become an instructor you give great directions

GOOD DETAILED Video Question do the POLICE TAHOE PPV fit ????? any difference is Diameter , Thickness

I've noticed that cars with dust shields (or whatever you call that backing plate of the rotor) have the insides of rotors completely rotted out. While cars without those dust shields almost never have rotted out rotors. As for the opening of the bleeding valve before pushing the piston back in... well I don't think it's necessary. Never had a single issue with that and I've always done it that way.

Great video,,,,

thanks for the video. have you had any issues with the purple brake grease messing with the rubber boots on the caliper slide pins...lots of controversy on only using silicon paste on those etc...just wondering if you have ever had any issues with the purple permatex stuff?

good one Eric...

Great video and good explanation! Can you do video on drum brakes replacement? I been having hard time to get off return spring on drum brakes 2004 Honda accord.

your the man

Awesome video! I live in South Florida, not too concerned about the rust but I do have a couple of question. I recently painted the calipers and brackets. I don't think it was a smart idea, but I painted over the part where the shims go, same place that was sand blasted in this video & behind the ears. I've only done the rear so far, I'm doing the front part in a couple of days. Should I go back & remove the paint from those surfaces? I didn't grease under the shim either, just on top of it. Did I do that backwards or could I grease both sides? I also cleaned up and painted the hubs, was that ok or was that a mistake; should I leave it as is or remove it? If I leave it on, could I apply copper anti seize over the painted hub surface or would you think the spray one you had in this video would fare out better, wasn't aware that was available. Definitely learned from this video, thanks.

Thanks for the video. I always have a problem getting the new clips In . So much build up of rust under the clips. Question. Does the cheap sandblaster work from princess auto? Do you recommend taking bracket to a booth and having them sand blasted?

Eric, a couple of thoughts: What do think about phenolic caliper pistons? Is it worth getting cast pistons if you were already planning on replacing them? Second, it kind of surprised me that the rotor hold down screw just came out. I'm in Texas where we don't worry too much about anything other than surface rust, and I don't think I've ever seen a rotor screw come out. And then you put it back in with an impact and no anti-seize. (your comment about the proper torque spec was funny though) Third, would it be worth painting the problem areas for rust? I understand that $10 a can of caliper/high temp paint plus paint dry time might not go along with quick service, but it seems with as many problems as rust gives you, especially after sandblasting the bracket and grinding the hub etc.

I just did my brother in law's Silverado. The pad shifted out of the bracket and the caliper piston was actually wearing on the rotor on the left side. The end of the piston was being curled off. 122K but they were done before.

Question? Do you hve to be careful not to push in the brake pede lin too far when pumping up the brakes? I was told to put a block of wood under the pedal when bleeding the brakes else you rip the cup on the rough part of the mater cylinder? Does this apply to a break job?

Do you have to open the brake fluid cap before pushing the pistons back in?

Thanks for the in-depth detail, I will be doing my 2014 next year

Do you have the torque specs handy for the caliper? Also, not familiar with "shimmy", how should we go about breaking in the new pads/rotor? Thanks in advance!

Omg, I have been paying to have my trucks done all along and for now on I am doing it myself. I can take my time and do a nice job like Eric also. I purchased that tool for pushing the pistons in that Eric has for $24.00 cdn on Amazon. My truck has 48000kms (almost 30,000 miles) in Ontario so I guess after 2 winters they are likely getting close.

What's your thoughts on using Glyptal paint in the caliper bracket. I know it was developed for electrical motor windings, but I have used it on my race car axles. It seems to hold up to the abrasion of the dirt tracks.

I think I've seen most of your brake videos and I am starting to wonder at what point I should replace my brake pads. I have a 2018 Escalade, low mileage and brake pads are still good. So I was thinking that maybe I should 1. put some Akebono high performance pads on there. 2. Do it way before the pads wear down so I don't have to replace the rotors too. Is there any logic to my thinking?

do you not open the brake fluid filler cap? just wondering as in the UK we are told YOU MUST haha thanks all the way from Northern Ireland United Kingdom!

another Question ? these Trucks come in 3 Different CONTROL ARM Cast Iron Forged Aluminum STAMPED Steel ? Any Interchange Ability ?

I just did some brake work on my buddies 2008 GMC Sierra 1500 4.8L Base truck and I cannot get a solid brake pedal. He had let it sit for a year and the front calipers seize up and I couldn't even compress them. Also the rear drum brake shoes where down to the metal. I went a head and replaced the drums, shoes and had to replace the rear drive side wheel cylinder because it had a casualty when trying to remove the stuck on drums. I adjusted them properly and the the self adjusted is working freely. I then moved on and replaced the front calipers and pads. I then bleed the brakes/ I wasn't getting good pedal and it keeps traveling strait to the floor. I used my Autel scanner to run through the ABS bleed procedure on each wheel and still not any peddle. I am getting a ton of air and the fluid coming thought my one man bleeder tool hose is all foamy and filled with air on the front calipers. The rear wheel cylinders the fluid looks good with no air on both sides when bleeding them. After a couple bottles of new brake fluid being run though the system in the attempt to get the air out out of the front calipers it has gotten a little better but still very low peddle feel. When driving the vehicle it stops, but the peddle is almost to the floor. If you double pump the brake peddle when coming to a stop it has brake feel like it should at the top of the peddle, but returns to the floor on the next stop. I've checked for leaks everywhere and I am not losing fluid level in the reservoir. The truck has 103,000 miles on it currently. No codes in any of the systems. I have done tons of brakes in my life and bled many brakes systems with all the lines that rot out where I live and have never had this much problems getting brake peddle to build of pressure. At this point I am thinking bad master cylinder or maybe one of the calipers I got from Advance Auto is bad?

Good video; very thorough! A question: Do you get the Castle Muscle Grease at one of your local parts stores or do you have to order it directly from Castle?

Can you recommend a good OEM quality or better replacement brand for rotors/pads on a '16 Sierra 1500 Denali? Mild towing. Sub'ed

Great work! Do you use any caliper grease on the pad to hardware contact points?

Thanks again !! :-)

Thank you. 😎

Looks like you do it just the way I do. As for rotors and pads I use the white box one hung low rotors and Wagner perfect stop pads. What pads did you use ? Oh yeah I do do something a little different , not sure it's to code but I've been doing this for 20 years or more,holly crap that sounds old :). Ok long time ago I had to listen to a presentation from a supplier at work from Loctite , well it seems its use on the fasteners was not just to be used as a threadlocker its also a rust preventer on the threads that form a polymeric seal and prevent the intrusion of moisture that causes rust. In the salt belt I use it on every threaded fastener required or not. Kinda expensive for a shop - for me it's one bottle a year and I think it works great. 👍

great videos learn so much from them. question for you my sons car 2002 dodge stratus changed the brakes and rotors still get what feels like a wobble or pulsing before i go any further like to know what you think people tell ball joints or tie rods i know hard to answer with out seeing it but anyway you point me in a direction much thanks tony

Great vid again, have you ever had problems with the level in the master cylinder when pushing the pads back?

I have a 2014 Silverado and the original front brakes lasted 123,000 miles. That included towing off-roading hauling gravel and ATVs!!! And yes, the inner pads in the front were worn more than the outer but pad left.. They were simple to change.. The rears lasted 103,000 miles.

I use a large bench C-clamp to retract the pistons. Great job on the rust clean up. What kind of grease do you use I haven't seen purple before. Oh detents on clips to keep the pads in. Why the hell can't Ford do that it's so simple. I hate having my pads fly out if I don't hold them right.

So you have worked on so many vehicles which one is the best?

I have always put anti-seize on brake bolts and never had a problem.