Spacing, Coils, and Brake Knots to Determine Glacier Travel Climbing Rope Length

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Spacing, Coils, and Brake Knots to Determine Glacier Travel Climbing Rope Length

Рет қаралды 800

Short Guys Beta Works

Күн бұрын

Пікірлер: 7

@kfcthanksgiving 3 ай бұрын

How this doesn’t have more views, I have no idea. This is expertly made with master level understanding of the concepts. Thank you

@ShortGuysBetaWorks 3 ай бұрын

Appreciate that! 🙏 It's a pretty new release, so we'll see how it does over the long haul.

@kfcthanksgiving 3 ай бұрын

@@ShortGuysBetaWorks oh true, I didn’t even realize this just dropped. Hell yeah, keep it up!

@jessemartens8568 2 ай бұрын

just wanted to say thank you for your videos, been watching the glacier travel series to refresh my memory and to learn some new stuff too. im sure a lot of work went into all these and i really appreciate you taking the time to make them

@ShortGuysBetaWorks 2 ай бұрын

Glad you are finding them useful! Thanks for taking the time to make a kind comment. It's the little moments (like this) that keep me motivated. 🙏

@mountainwise2811 Ай бұрын

Lots of good information here and I like the references to the many sources out there. Another disadvantage I would add to tying knots into the rope is that the rope can't be used for running belays. If travel involves steep terrain or exposed sections, it's beneficial to have this option. A team would have to assess what the greater hazard is: crevasse falls or steep terrain. (Or stop and take out the knots.) I like that you point out the amount of extra rope needed for being ready to set up a drop loop 6:1. I think a lot of people do not take this into account. Because of this, I personally prefer a 3:1 Z-drag (that can be converted to a 5:1 or 6:1) that requires less rope. If using a 3:1 system, I find a 50m rope very versatile and will work for teams of 2 - 5 people.

@ShortGuysBetaWorks Ай бұрын

@@mountainwise2811 yeah, that's a good couple of points. We cover the running belay issue in a video in the glacier travel series on running belays: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qqicYJSZm8zUo3U.html I used to use a 3:1 that converts to a 5:1, but as I started to go to places where my team was the only team out there, I found rope cut to be a major issue, hence my conversion to the 6:1 with knots. Tradeoffs in all things, as you point out.