Thanks for your post and support!

Thanks for your critique and good luck with the repair!

Hi buddy ! Could you tell me the cylinder 1 position. Passenger or driver side. Thanks a lot

Good for you!

Thanks and good for you!

Glad you found the video useful!

Great ... shouldn't be to difficult and time consuming!

You bet!

You bet!

You're welcome!

You bet!

Glad it was helpful!

Thanks! If the valve cover gasket is not leaking, I'd leave it alone. Also, if there's no misfire error code, I'd leave the coil packs alone.

You bet!

I could but the customer just wanted the plugs changed. Besides, the intercooler fins don't get dirty like radiator and condenser fins.

Not difficult.

You're welcome!

Been looking forward to doing that video when a repair opportunity comes my way!

Start the engine and spray brake keen on all hose connections. If the rpm's go up, you've found your leak.

Thanks for your post. Dropping in the plug will not harm the center electrode since it's landing into a hole

It's a pick tool to lift the tab to separate the electrical connection.

@@hardlymovingpro Thank you, sir.

Like in the video, I used 1/4" extensions, sockets and ratchet

Most plugs are corrosion coated and generally don't need anti seize. Although on some GM cars I worked on with AC Delco plugs, I broke them in half because they were rust stuck in place. Buy Denso or NGK if you don't want any future problems. Use this video as a general guide to replace a valve cover gasket: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qZ-ClbSQv6-3Z4E.html

You bet!

With those items, I'd advise the old adage, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it!".

Not necessary unless you had a cylinder misfire error code. Could be both bad plugs and/or coil packs.

Believe I used a 3/8 or 14 mm socket 6 point.

Not too difficult of a job.

Not that hard of a job.

I'd go a little higher. Have dealt with loose plugs in aluminum heads. Somewhere between 15 to 18 lbs.

@@hardlymovingpro Thanks for the tip! I think 18 lbs if using anti-seize on the threads, 13-15 lbs if not. Cheers!

@@mattylevo You got it backwards actually, but I see your reasoning. The reason is that the anti-seize will lubricate the threads so any torque reading will be achieved at easier with lubricated threads. In other words, in a dry thread spark plug install, the clamping force will be less at '13-lb/ft' compared to a lubricated thread at '13-lb/ft' which will screw down harder due to decreased resistance to turn on the threading. If anything, a lubricated threading should have the same or slightly less torque wrench final tightening because the torque wrench reads only threaded resistance to turn, and a dry thread will offer more resistance naturally.

You're 100% correct!

Suggest you start off with a metric 3/8" metric socket wrench set with screw drivers and pliers.

Set the crankshaft timing mark to the top-dead-center mark to get the #1 cylinder to the top.

Thank you, Buddy

You bet!

If you follow the video, it's not a difficult job.

Yes.

With all those codes, I recommend you bring it to a reputable full service repair shop.

@@hardlymovingpro I haven't bought it yet, is staying in a dealer store. I would like to know before what should it need

@@redihoxha2940 address each error code one at a time.

@@hardlymovingpro yeah but I think need to see them one by one, maybe it's out of timing or need only the camshaft sensor...I'm not sure 🤔

@@redihoxha2940 a dealer dumping a car with a lot of codes isn't a good sign

Unless you have cylinder misfire error codes (OBDII Code P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303 and P0304), there's no reason to replace any of your coil packs. If you do get any of these codes, the first step is to remove, inspect and perhaps replace the spark plugs...then clear the codes, start the engine and see if that fixed the problem(s). The replacement interval with these NGK Long Life Iridium plugs is over 100k miles; so for now, I see no reason to replace these plugs. The intercooler is not a typical wear-out item. It acts like a radiator but cools in coming hot, compressed air. If anything, consider replacing the rubber air hoses leading in to and out of the intercooler. If you do want to replace a faulty coil pack, do one coil pack at a time based on the error code. No reason to replace all four. Stick with a quality coil pack replacement. Japanese coil packs are made by NGK, Denso and Hitachi. Other choices are Dephi, Standard Motor Products and Beck/Arnley. You can keep you RDX running strong and long by using quality synthetic oils both in your engine and transmission. For your transmission, you can do a "drain and fill" with Valvoline's Synthetic ATF which is Honda/Acura compatible.

@@hardlymovingpro Is it possible to have misfires with no error codes? My rdx seems to skip or hesitate sometimes under hard acceleration. It feels a lot like the traction control kicking in, but I get no light like I normally do when the traction control kicks in.

Everyone is making iridium plugs these days and their prices have been dropping.

Thanks!

Right on!

Good for you!

From my perspective, it's not very difficult compared to working on German cars.

He did the very minimal needed to get to them, what are you talking about?

The intercooler is mounted on top on this model, so it must be removed to change the plugs

Removing plugs is too much work for replacing plugs? 🤔

​@@dancarlton7712😂fr