I love your videos bro I got a lumix G7 cuz you have one same with my 60D can you make a video on what settings you use on the Lumix G7

@@BadKarma714 Check out DSLR Video Shooter. Caleb makes great guides on individual cameras, and they are pretty cheap as well. Worth the price if you ask me, you'll learn everything that there is to know about the G7.

Lool again you basically nailed the Beta testing of DR by accident! xD 18 videos later, maybe their soft will end up being perfect, once you'll have missed the color grading after hitting the ND filter with your arm, & once you'll have sneezed while holding the tripod, & we'll discover some new quirks of DR Digital IS ... :D can't wait ^^ → DR brand new *Sneeze Shot Stabilization*

You stay classy, Gerald Undone

Thanks, Jesse! That means a lot. Appreciate your continued support and viewership. Cheers! 😃🙏💜

@@kezzatube45 Cheers

Yeah man, same. Although the contact on the Viltrox went out after 6 months. Optical quality is legit tho.

I've heard you are not able to use manual focus lenses on the viltrox, is that accurate for the ef-m2?

@@chiokehart-kelly3481 Not true. I'm using the Rokinon Cine DS lens set with my Viltrox. Works just fine.

Is that lens normally soft or does it only get soft on the speedbooster? If so then what's the point of getting the extra stop of light if you can't even use it?

Is anybody faced blurred image problem when using Viltrox and Rokinon? I changed 2 wide angle lenses because of this problem and still didn’t get rid off!

like it's 1999

Thomas Donalek like it’s 2009

Even the Mark II viltrox? Does this happen on the Mark II viltrox too?

Thanks for sharing this. I have had the same experience. When backlighting a subject (for instance at sunset) washes out the image and essentially flares the entire image loosing some sharpness but mostly destroys the contrast. Tested without the Viltrox efm2 mkii with my Sigma 18-35 and the flare went away. It's almost now worth it to me to shoot with a straight adapter now or upgrade to metabones.

@@NolanGunn What if you put black tape around the connection so the light doesn't leak in? I know it's not a professional solution, but considering Viltrox's price this shouldn't be a reason to pay 4 times more for the Metabones.

Thanks so much! 😃🙏

It's ironic how the only people that really care about ultra sharpness and clarity are reviewers. 99% of real world photographers and videographers use mist filters/diffusers, ND filters, post production softening techniques to emulate older technology that all affect the image to a great degree because that's what people actually gravitate towards and what is more appealing to the eye. One look at any social media site and the look that people want isn't necessarily the sharpest possible image. Unless it's sports or animal documentaries, sharpness is absolutely important but shouldn't be the top priority for most people looking for new gear; when, much like in this case it's literally splitting hairs.

The Portraitist Do you have any video with the Pixco speedbooster and Canon Fd lenses with thr bmpcc 4k ?

@@SiloneulaFishingProductions H. No, I use it with a Lumix G85.

What if you put black tape around the connection so the light doesn't leak in? I know it's not a professional solution, but considering Viltrox's price this shouldn't be a reason to pay 4 times more for the Metabones

@@mogyesz225 I'll try it! Have you heard of that being the issue?

Hi, which metabones version ar you talking about? is it the one exclusive to BMPCC 4k or the one for all MFT cameras? I'm debating whether I should get the "generic" one(about $400 on eBay) or the specifically designed one($600+) for my BMPCC 4k. Thank you in advance!

Did the auto focus worked for you? thanks

does it work with cannon lense?

Super keen to hear your experience

THANK you. i have all 3 in my cart between amazon and ebay and i'm anxiously trying to figure out wtf speedbooster of the 1 million in existence to use for the sigma 18-35mm and my BMPCC4K!!! I NEED TO SEE THIS SET UP )also if anyone can use them on the DJI RONIN S and how it handles all the weight! and i'll be set!

@@LinusKnight Replying to all a bit delayed, no the one-touch AF did not work for me. I ended up getting the follow focus unit for the ronin. Ive had no problems balancing the bmpcc+viltrox+sigma in its cage with the follow focus unit. The ronin-s is a beast, though you might need a cheese plate to offset the balance without a cage. Make Art Now has a video on that.

Really? I thought that viltrox is only 0.71x Thanks for the info!

@@aeroxtreme15 There are a couple of videos comparing different speedboosters. You can see that the Viltrox is wider than Metabones, Pixco, Zhingyi Turbo (or whatever it's called) etc. In one of the videos, the reviewer says explicitly that the Viltrox is 0.68x...so I assume he has measured it somehow. I'm fairly confident prime lenses were used in the videos, so there's no chance it was a mistake

@@Albanez39 I see, thanks for info. I'm planning to but this speed booster when I get the Panasonic G9 in January. I'm still confused on finding the the right equation for using crop sensor lenses for mft. I know when using ff lenses you times it to 1.9 or 2 then times it again with the focal reducer. How about using crop lenses.

@@aeroxtreme15 Okay, so...Lenses are always advertised in 35mm/FF focal length standard. That's why the classic zoom lens for FF is 24-70mm, while the Micro4/3 lens is 12-35mm. You always have to calculate the actual focal length yourself. If you used the 12-35mm lens on a FF camera, that would be the actual focal length, but on the Panasonic G9, the actual FL of that lens will be 24-70mm. So, if you compared a photo taken with a Canon FF camera on a 24mm focal length, with a photo taken with the G9 on a 12mm focal length, it would be the same... For every lens you'll have, be it a native Panasonic lens, or a Canon EF lens, or a vintage Russian lens, you'll have to multiply it's Focal Length by 2 to know the actual FL you're shooting on. This is for Panasonic Micro4/3 cameras; If you're using a Sony a6500 or a Canon 7D, you'll be dealing with an APS sensor, which is between 1.4 to 1.6 times (depending on brand) smaller than FF. Crop sensor lenses are built the same way as FF lenses, they just have lower diameter glass since they have a smaller sensor to cover. That's one reason why you can't adapt crop lenses on an FF camera, but you can adapt FF lenses on a crop camera. The other reason is Focal Flange Distance (FFD), which is often shorter on crop sensors and mirrorless cameras. This is the distance between the sensor/film and the rear element of the lens. Since Canon EF has a longer FFD than Micro4/3, you can adapt EF lenses on a Panasonic G9...but you can't do the opposite. FFD has nothing to do with sensor and lens dimension, it's just that newer mirrorless cameras have chosen to use a shorter FFD to allow you to use older lenses. e.g. You can't adapt Canon, M42, M39, OM lenses on a Nikon F camera, because Nikon F has one of the largest FFDs. But you can adapt all of the lenses I mentioned on a Panasonic G9. If you mount a smaller FFD lens on a bigger FFD camera, the rear element might end up touching the sensor and damaging it. This is something to be careful about! As long as the lens you want to adapt has a Larger/Longer FDD and was made for a Bigger sensor than your Panasonic G9, you can adapt it! Just make sure to find the right adapter, and that its quality is good enough. Most adapters will account for FFD and they'll have a specific length/depth to allow you to reach infinity focus...but some of the cheaper ones have an incorrect length/depth and you won't be able to focus to infinity. Good adapters (no element or electrical contacts) cost between $5 and $25. If they cost more, they have some additional feature (macro extension, electric contacts, shift capabilities, built in ND filters etc.) or are simply overpriced. Speedboosters are basically adapters which contain an element inside. This element takes the light rays coming through the lens, and concentrates them on the sensor. Since the lens is made for a bigger sensor, some of the light going through the lens would end up outside the sensor if a cheap adapter were to be used. With a speedbooster you gain more light and the focal length gets reduced a bit. I personally recommend the Viltrox. It's AS GOOD AS the overpriced Metabones speedboosters, while being more efficient (x0.68 instead of x0.71) and having a tighter fit. Metabones is often loose on the camera from what I read... As for the lenses, you'll save a great deal of money if you already own SLR lenses (Canon, Nikon, etc.)...you won't need to buy expensive Micro4/3 glass...but I suggest you get the Lumix 12-35mm f2.8 if you'll be using your camera for video. You'll get Dual Stabilization (body and lens) and you'll have a great little lens for the streets, while traveling and so on; Micro4/3 lenses are incredibly small compared to those massive FF lenses, perhaps that's why they cost a lot. Probably the best tip I'll be giving you today: Find and buy vintage lenses!!! The Soviet M42 and M39 lenses are incredibly unique, mainly because of their swirly bokeh and creamy look. Japanese and German lenses are incredibly sharp, and you'll be baffled to find out that you can buy a great Canon FD prime for $30, while a modern Panasonic prime will cost you hundreds or thousands of Dollars/Euros. Check antique shops, garage sales, open air bazaars and what not. If you live in the US or a big European country, you'll find lots of vintage lenses in such places, and they're usually sold by people that have no idea of their value. If you're like me and don't have a lot of access to such lenses, ebay might be a great solutions. They are a bit more expensive online, but they're worth it if you can afford them. My end goal in regards to lenses is to own as many different Helios, Industar, Mir, Vega (Soviet) lenses, while also owning a complete set of Canon FD or Carl Zeiss primes for shooting video. Plus the Lumix 12-35mm f2.8 for the stabilization, accurate colour rendition and other features that only modern (and native) lenses have.

But lower is better in this case anyway.

Dustin Gillum can you elaborate please? Thank You.

What do you mean?

For those wondering…. Focus like once. I find on a far away object like a chain link fence though a focus card like his works better…. Then zoom out wide.. no tin focus? Rarely is.. and start adjusting rear rear optic…. (Back focus) is the term. Then zoom back in…. Looks good? Zoom back out…. Final adjustment.. then for laughs check mid distance. When I used broadcast cameras I would do it every week…. Temperature changes metal swelling in multiple pieces of different types and sizes of metal. That’s why broadcast has a thumb screw and a full sized ring (think of a 2nd aperture ring at the back of a broadcast lens). Backfocus becomes easy and quick.

What is the opinion on the szcam?

Thanks, Philip! And yeah, I agree. I think it was able to keep better focus because of the constant pulsing. But I agree on the usage.

@@geraldundone BMPCC seems do not have continue AF, what camera are you using for this test?

And turn it all the way in the opposite way and you will make any lense a macro lense ;)

What about image stabilization? Will it work with viltrox II?

@@imiy Sensor image stabilization works with any lens, but you won't have Dual IS since you are not using native Panasonic lenses. Panasonic's internal stabilization is better than in every other DSLM, but you won't get that impeccable stabilization the GH5 is known for. IBIS is so good just because the sensor and lens work together.

@@Albanez39 I actually own pocket 4k and being interested in whether the lens stabilization will work when using Metabones or Viltrox adapter.

@@imiy Not very familiar with the Blackmagic 4K. Are you talking about Electronic IS inside the camera, or lens stabilization (Vibration Control etc.)? EIS should work if the Blackmagic has that feature. As for lens stabilization I have no idea...it should work as long as the speedbooster has electrical contacts. I have never been satisfied with Vibration Control in EF lenses though...seems like placebo more than actual stabilization.

@@imiy IS works with the Pocket 4K and the Viltrox (at least with my Canon 55-250mm)

Thanks so much, Gabe!

He is teaching! I come to class quite often!

Yeah, I also like marrying them to the lens. But for those on a budget, the next best thing is putting little marks on the reducer so you can switch back and forth.

I approve of your avatar! Haha. Thanks, Peter!