I'm very disappointed. Current code requires the use of a GFCI breaker for all outlets in a garage, including 240v. Yes you're using it as a shop, but the space would still be defined as a garage for code purposes. You also made no mention of using a torque wrench/driver for the terminal screws. Neither of these would've made an appreciable difference in the video length.

@@thomasbonse its very unlikely anyone is going to install a gfci for a welding outlet including myself. They only way would be if its new construction and its getting inspected. It never used to be that way and is totally unnecessary. And ive never used a torque wrench on a residential breaker. In a commercial MDP, yes definitely . I also mentioned to follow all local code requirements. Get real with what your nitpicking my video about. Its residential and you know it was a clean install.

@@SpicerDesignsLLC You are the one presenting yourself as a master electrician on an otherwise instructional video for DIYers. I pointed these specific issues out because there's good safety reasons for both and was part of the reason they made it into recent editions of NFPA 70. Too many DIYers don't know the relevant codes or even how to find the right information, so end up doing their project unsafely. I'm not pointing these issues out to nitpick, but rather because some of your audience may have only seen this video before they go off and try it themselves.

@@thomasbonse a “master electrician” is a non union foreman. I would never call myself a “master electrician”. I have been a union electrician for 20 years and been exposed to every aspect of electrical work. The arc fault breakers were a joke and the gfi on a welding outlet is a joke. Its just insurance companies trying to cover there ass. Nothing i presented in this video was unsafe. Are they making people go back and install gfci’s on welding outlets when it wasnt code just a short time ago? Whos enforcing that? If you dont agree with my install you are welcome to make your own video.

@@thomasbonse to be clear, i live in Indiana which has not adopted the new code requirements. Were still operating from the 2008 code. So nothing i did in my video was a code violation. Thats why i said follow your local code requirements If you want to get technical about it. Even if we were i still wouldn’t put it on a gfi.

@@bobbyblair6862 good luck with your project Bobby!

Hah! I guess thats one way to look at it.

My native brother that was funny.... the deeper the box ... lol ... 😂😅

But not wetter "according to electricians"

Thank you!

It's a banger. I'm ready to go touch my buss bar just for funzies.

Thank you! Glad you liked it.

Love the video! Little bit of humor but full mention of safety which is always required!

Thank you! Glad it was helpful. Thanks for the comment Chris

Thats great! Glad it was helpful and good luck with your project.

@@SpicerDesignsLLC Thanks for doing what you do! I have one question I can’t find not related to this exactly but maybe you know. The info on my welder says “Insurge amps”: 31A. Is that how many amps it takes before damaging the welder? And will a 30A breaker still be good? Operating amps is 25A.

@@NomadSaga thats just the inrush current when you start welding. It will spike momentarily and then settle to the operating current. Rule of thumb is to size you overcurrent protection/ breaker at 125% of the full load amps. Id recommend a 40 amp breaker. The manual should spec out the breaker sizing too.

Ok thank you very much I’ll be hooking it up this weekend 👍🏻. I’m really enjoying your content.

Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it.

Thanks! I appreciate that. I tried to break it down the best i could. Thanks for the comment.

killed it!@@SpicerDesignsLLC

Thank you!

Thanks! I appreciate that. Hope it was helpful for you

Hah! Glad it was helpful and good luck with your project.

Thank you! I appreciate the feedback

Perfect! Congrats on the new shop

Hah. Thats great! Glad you think im funny, my wife doesnt.

Good luck with your project. I say machine a lot and it just became a thing. I now have a brand called machine with a cool logo. Youll see that in some of my newer videos.

@@SpicerDesignsLLC I kinda figured that’s what it was 😂😂😂… thanks… I’ll reply once it’s done … just so you know I didn’t shock myself 😂😂😂😂

Good eye. But i do keep things clean. My first boss was a real stickler for cleaning up.

Thanks for the nice comment. I like to have fun on the channel. Some of those DIY videos can be pretty boring. Glad you got a laugh out of it.

Thank you! Glad it was helpful

Thank you!

Thank you! Hope it was helpful

I always clock the screws when I rebuild a car carburetor....just for fun, might make the car go faster.

Whats your question Doug?

@@SpicerDesignsLLC is that only for 240v panels? Because a panel with 120v mixed in will screw that up???

Im not following. You might have to call me on this one. Ill have to unblock you.

I didnt do all that but it looks nice.

Thanks Nathan!

I’m a new electrical DIY… Home Remodel. I’m just doing all the cold work. Electrician friend doing all the hot stuff. At this point my palms sweat when I take the panel cover off! Haha.

@@NathanHarrison7 sounds like you have a smart plan. I have a couple other electrical diy videos with some good tips. Good luck with your project!

It works really well. Never had it break down over time. Stays nice and solid.

What is a pint of sandels?

Best Beer you can find here in Finland.

@@aatossalmu1655 hopefully that means i did good. Ill have to try to find some of this Sandels.

Awesome! Glad it was helpful for you. Ya anytime you measure between two hots and you get 0 volts, it means they are the same potential or the same phase. Good on you for getting it figured out and fixed. Thanks for the sub!

Thanks buddy! Cool name btw

No problem! Hope it was helpful to you. Thanks for watching!

Damn straight! Hope it was helpful.

Thanks for the sub! Ya just depends what you want to have in your shed. If its just lights and some outlets, all you really need is a 15 or 20 amp circuit with some 12/2 or 14/2. Hopefully the video was helpful. If you have any questions let me know.

@@SpicerDesignsLLC Be putting a millermatic 250 vintage in there along with a 5+ or better hp 80gal compressor for the sandblaster other than that just a small bench drill press and lights, chances are I would only be running these items separately

@@diggindiggenit6540 ahh ok. Ya youll want at least a 60 amp panel in there. You will need a 3 conductor with ground. Two hots, neutral, and ground.

@@SpicerDesignsLLC Okay thanks so much for the info, I have several panels and I found one a subpanel that has two 60amp breakers inside one with a test button on it, I was thinking I would use that in the shop so I could run another 30 amp breaker just for the lights and drill press etc. what I really need is a 200amp service that is for next spring the house is 100 amp and I have 2224 aluminum going 90 foot to my garage and I have one lincoln presision 275 tig that requires 115 amps per manual I have yet to use because lack of amps so I set aside some 1/0 copper for spring but the electric company suggested Not to have the run from the house to garage and just have them run a line to the garage 200amp and have a meter on that, problem is i am against those smart meters and that's all they use these days, I mean if they could keep the meter at the pole and not near the garage I would do it. One of those dang things for me is enough man, when they first put that thing in ringing ears constantly and other issues, i just don't like them. but 200amp service that would really be the ticket for the garage so I could power up it along with the two other work sheds I built around the garage, I will take your advise and go with a subpanel in the shed and just use the 6/4 I have and cap one of the extra lines like you did in this video, thanks for the advice.

Thanks. It is a temp setup right now. Its a little different set up than a typical studded structure being its a pole barn. Yes you are correct, it would require nail guards.

I appreciate that! Glad it was helpful for you. If you have any questions feel free to ask in the comments or email me.

That's not necessarily true. If you are using NM-B, yes due to the 60C derate 25A requires 10ga wire. But if you use individual THHN in a conduit then 12ga is OK. Per Table 310.15(B)(16).

@@mbrick i would still use 10 awg

​@@mbrickhowever code states max of 20A breaker on #12 wire

@@nooneyouknowhere6148 is that only for NM-B or all wire types? could you cite the section so I could read up and learn?

The white wire was just a spare conductor. Just had that cable laying around. I did land the bare conductor on the green ground screw on the device in the video. Maybe it was hard to see. I cant remember. Not sure why people are landing the white wire on the ground screw. Thats not typically done.

THANKS! @@SpicerDesignsLLC

It can be confusing to understand the concept. Its a split phase system. The neutral allows you to use half the potential of the voltage available which is the 240 volt. If you hooking up a welder, youll just need two conductors that will land on a two pole breaker and the bare ground will connect to the outlet as well. You only see a 240 volt circuit with a neutral on something like an oven or a dryer. Usually it’s something with some kind of display or control thats operating off 120 volt and doesnt have an internal control power xfmr.

thank you@@SpicerDesignsLLC

Hah. Thanks. Hope it was helpful

Glad you enjoyed it. Shes been running around with the girls. Sometimes its hard to get her in all the videos. She should be in the next one.

General rule of thumb is to size the breaker at 125% of the full load amps. At a minimum. 14awg wire is only good for a 15 amp breaker. Not sure if that was a typo or not. Usually would have #8 awg for a 50 amp.

@@SpicerDesignsLLC I agree cover your ass. but the astrix at the bottom of table 310.16 refers to a list of exceptions in table 240.4. Welders can ignore prior ampacity requirements and refers you to 630.12 for sizing conductors. Thwn 14's has 20a rating but the ocp can be no more than 200%. 14's on a 40 I couldn't believe it either.

@@joeaubert7224 ya you cant have 14’s on a 40 amp circuit. Ive never seen anything like that. If theres a chance of anything else being used on that circuit its a fire hazard. Thats what starts fires is undersized conductors. Something doesnt seem right with that exception. Ill have to look into that.

@@SpicerDesignsLLC agreed, size for a welder next thing you know the owner has an RV plugged into it. 😬

@SpicerDesignsLLC Good video. I appreciate all the work that went into it! A good general rule of thumb is to follow the welder manufacturer's installation instructions. For example, on a Lincoln AC225 arc welder, instructions say 10AWG up to 100 feet, with a 50 Amp fuse. Yeah, they actually say fuse. I understand why you're questioning it, but per NEC, you can factor the duty cycle of the welder into the calculations. I copied this - "Welding duty cycles are expressed in percentages of each 10 minutes that a welding machine can run before it automatically shuts down. For example, a 60% welding duty cycle means you can use the welding machine for 6 minutes out of every ten and rest for 4 minutes." A simple way of understanding it is that a welder with a 20% duty cycle can only run 2 minutes out of every 10. If you push that and overheat the unit, it will shut down. That also limits conductor heating. It's both code compliant and manufacturer suggested. What if something else gets plugged in there? 1.What else uses the same plug with only 3 prongs? 2.We can label the outlet for "Welder Only". There's no risk of anything else being plugged into my home shop welder receptacle. EVs, ranges, dryers, RVs, all use 4 prongs per code. It's smart to think of the what ifs, but I'm not responsible if some hillbilly violates code. On the other hand, if you're not comfortable with that, there's nothing wrong with pairing the conductor with the breaker ampacity, like you did. But 100 feet of 10AWG is cheaper than 100 feet of 6AWG!

The main panel is typically your first means of disconnect which is where your neutral and ground are bonded. You can do the same install for the outlet in your main or a sub.

Thank you so much. Happy Easter.

Just depends on your set up. Should take anyone longer than A day to do it. Id say somewhere between $500-$1000

Ya sounds good. Shoot me an email

I understand what your saying but im not a big fan of that. It puts extra stress on the cord and it will eventually fail. Those larger amperage plugs are typically pretty stiff and hold well. If its working for you thats great. Thanks for sharing

If you have multiple pieces of equipment your going to want separate circuits. If you want to spread out some welding outlets in different areas of the shop then you can use the same circuit. If you run two at the same time it will just trip the circuit.

Hell ya it hurts.

Its likely you can. Dryers are typically 40-50 amp circuits. You can always downsize the breaker on a larger conductor. Then just replace the receptacle to match the welder.

Thank you! Much appreciated

I hear ya. Its temporary in my case and ill be the only one doing any work in there. But yes, nail guards are a must with romex

Because its conductive metal. If something were to short against that metal box it could become energized. Thats why it needs to be grounded so it would short against the metal box and trip the breaker. If your using metal boxes with romex they have to be grounded.

My welding plug has a metal finger going to the ground terminal which is connected to metal face plate , however , under your advice I grounded the metal box with the grounding wire .@@SpicerDesignsLLC

@@SpicerDesignsLLC appreciate the explanation on grounding the metal box. So I am assuming this is only because you have attached the metal box to a wooden stud right? If mounting the metal box to a metal building that is already grounded then this would not be required right? Thank you! ~Ron

@@ron.bennett you would still need to ground it through the electrical panel even though the building steel is grounded. If your using conduit instead of romex then you wont need the grounding conductor.

​@@SpicerDesignsLLC correct sorry I should have been more clear on this. Yes the bare ground wire coming from the plug is ran back through metal conduit to the sub-panel and is grounded there. (ground and neutral are separated in the panel) The sub-panel itself is grounded to the metal building and to two grounding rods outside that are at least 6' apart and 8' deep. With all this, then there is no need to ground the wire inside the metal box correct? I mean it wouldn't hurt to go ahead and ground it there, but it would not be required right? Again thank you for your time. ~Ron

Thanks. I did attach it to the device. May be hard to see but you can see me do it in the video.

Is there something specific you asking about the faceplate? Im not sure what your asking.

@@SpicerDesignsLLC oh the sticker that shows on the thumbnails.. I think i refers to the panel box ( cir 13...)

@@dcgo44r ohh. Thats just the circuit number of that welding outlet. I always label them in addition to the panel schedule. I like to do that when i do service work too. Most of the time the panels arent labeled well so it makes it easy for someone to find that circuit.