That's great news. Glad it helped.

Hello, where is the NH35A TMI machine made?

Very glad I could help. I was surprised there weren't other videos on this when I filmed it with it being such a popular movement for the homage market as well as Seikos own.

You're welcome. That's ludicrous though. Seiko have used plastic parts in the calendar works of their mechanical watches since the mid seventies at least.

Thank you. In reality the difference would be so minimal that you'd be unlikely to notice. The system is very efficient and will wind fully in 4 to 5 hours from empty on regular non energetic wear.

I normally use the 1A auto for these but thought I'd try this out as an alternative and was pretty pleased at how it worked. It's pretty much the same as the old method for pulling old non shock balance jewels where you'd oil and then then poke a fine piece of wire through to carry the oil to the cap jewel and of course it's a much cheaper alternative to folks who can't justify shelling out £70+ on an auto oiler

@@spidiq8 I've seen some bergeon A1 oiler clones on aliexpress heard lots of good thinks about them... Maybe I should try one

Thank you. Tips and suggestions are always appreciated.

Thank you, very kind of you.

Glad you enjoyed it and yes, for the cost of a replacement it's probably the best value mechanical movement to date. It's incredible that they can make them so cheaply and do have a go, servicing is as straightforward as any Seiko 3 hand model, cheap movements and watches on eBay are great sources of practice movements, also come on over to watch repair lessons on Facebook if you're not a member.

Thanks. Last replacement I was pondering HP1300 but I tend to find D5 doesn't creep much and I'm so used to it. I will have to try some when I need to renew again. I'm always wary of changing things that work well for me.

Hi, yes it is possible that it's a copy, however the NH35 is so cheap it's rare to see them and they're normally very obvious and poor in finish. It's possible that you got one which has a detective part, these are mass manufactured movements and errors can creep in. If it's a fairly new watch you should be able to have it exchanged.

I don't show the oiling fully in all the videos but for almost everything I use the Bergeon black oiler which is the smallest. For some applications you need to apply twice, I find it better for myself to do this and guage as you go as it's easier to apply more if needed but not to remove if you add too much in one application.

The 3 essentials are 9010, D5 (or HP1300) and a grease for metal to metal parts like the keyless works. 8200 is a good general purpose grease. For an automatic watch you also need a braking grease for the barrel walls of the mainspring. Moebius 8217 is a good 'general purpose' one. There are other greases and oils with specific purposes but you can cover most movements with those mentioned. Seiko has its own specific lubricants but I haven't used any so can't say how they are. D5 is used for the barrel arbors. 2nd wheel arbor jewels and the 2nd reduction wheel teeth which the pawl levers (magic fingers) bear on. 9010 for the 3rd, 4th, escape pivots and the balance jewels. (9010 can also be used for the pallets where they bear on the teeth of the escape wheel but the specified recommended is 9415 which is a semi liquid grease)

@@spidiq8 thank you so much for the detailed reply, I greatly appreciate it.

should initially turn slowly but then snap over at or near midnight, if it doesn't it has become disengaged from the calendar wheel jumper spring or the spring is broken, to rectify you'll need to strip, dial, hands and calendar work cover plate. If it's a new watch, send it back for replacement.

Thank you Paul. It's certainly something you or anyone with patience and a passion for watches can do, these movements are great for practice as, with many things it's better to start with something you know is good and working so you know what you're aiming for in the finished item. If you're on Facebook I highly recommend you join watch repair lessons group of which I'm an admin, there are lots of helpful folks on there with a huge variation in skill and experience levels, several who have more skill than myself and also people who've never so much as opened a case back. Mark Lovick who the group belongs to has a fantastic channel called watch repair lessons and also does a distance learning course which is highly lauded, you can find details of that here. www.watchfix.com/

Thanks for tip on the course I am seriously considering doing it.

It's a special tool for that , saw in a video , or with wood special form after it

or can see a vide by My Retro watches has an video just fot this

There are specific Kif tools or you can make one simply, see here. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/pLV3e9xytcnPcnk.html

@@spidiq8 thank you!

They are OK, and like the swiss movements vary in quality. There are plenty of 70's poor quality Swiss movements and there are a mixed bag of excellent and poor japanese movements. The Seiko mainstream movements and current NH ones are very good for mass produced machine assembled movements.

If it cost you nothing you've nothing to lose and they're a good movement to practice on.

@@spidiq8 one day maybe 🤣

@@marclafferty6416 Go for it. A set of screwdrivers and a pair of tweezers and see how it goes. A new NH35 is about £30 so it's the best deal for practice movements you'll find.

The 7S26 it's based on did the same. It's baffling.

@@spidiq8 Time to watch another of your videos as I’ve got an AS2066 sitting here that needs stripping down and a service.

@@thegrumpymuso5418 Have fun with it. Take your time and plenty of pictures of the calendar mechanism

Yes you'll need to remove the stem and the crown and stem screw together.

Thank you. I was fortunate enough to have a mentor when I was in my early teens who guided me through the basics, an old guy who lived up the road and repaired clocks and watches for people and was well known. It began by me asking if I could watch him, when he realised I was genuinely interested in how they worked he said if I'm going to explain I might as well teach you. That's how it began. There was a period where it all went to the background as I got a bit older and interested in other things but I returned to it in my mid twenties buying old mechanical watches from car boot sales which could be had very very cheaply then as everyone wanted quartz and I'd work on them and sell them. I got interested in filming them after discover the watch repair channel and discovering that people seemingly liked seeing it.

@@spidiq8 Wow, what a great story :), I'm happy and glad I found your channel, looking forward for more videos from you in the future. :)

There is no fixed position for them they need to be set using a timegrapher (timing machine) with the balance in place.

@@spidiq8 Thanks, my question is out of intrigue. I was just wondering if after you serviced the watch, would you need to regulate it on a timegrapher as well? Provided that it needed it? I'm sure after service you always put it on the timegrapher. My initial question was, if someone messed with those levers. Let's say they moved them both to one side, would you just leave them in the position that person put them in after service? Thanks for the response. I've asked others, and they think I'm trying to regulate my watch. I was only wondering if a watchmaker would need to do any adjustments to the balance levers after, or during service.

@@1988banker Absolutely yes they'd need to be adjusted after service. While I say there's no default position what I mean is that they have to be roughly placed then adjusted on the timegrapher. I simply mean there's no preset mark on the balance that they'd be correct in. If moved it would throw the timing of the watch completely out.

@@spidiq8 Thanks for the answer! So you would roughly place them. With the beat lever and other one in the middle of the +-. Then adjust the beat, and after that the one to slow down or speed up? If the levers were never moved, and it was great on the timegrapher, I imagine nothing would need to be done. If the beat was good and it was like +1 a day you would be done. I imagine it depends on the situation. I do appreciate the response!

@@1988banker Essentially yes but some adjustment would always be required after service once the oils had settled after a few hours of running. On the timegrapher you actually need to take positional readings and adjust accordingly. Unfortunately many watch reviewers on KZfaq get one of these and don't really understand how to use one and just check the watch in one position and call it good. I really should do a video on using a timegrapher as I've had a few people ask about them. In short dial up and down should be very close then 6 high and 9 high are the next two most important positions as these are the most common in use. Provided they're within 10 seconds between these positions with something like a modern NH you're good.

The NH series of movements hasn't been or that long but considering it's based on gradual improvements to seikos base calibres 7009 to 7S26 and 7S36 and there are watches from the 70's still running well. I'd say so.

Like any movement, it's really a matter of practice on them, these are so similar to the 7s26 you'd manage fine, also close enough to the Orient.

There could be so many reasons why. It's impossible to say without knowing more about your movement. Is it freshly rebuilt, is it an old one you're replacing the balance on, if so are you replacing the balance because you think the old was defective or damaged, does the wheel train run with the pallets removed and so on.

Hey friend. I know its been a while but did you ever figure this out? Having the same issue…

Cost and ease of manufacture. Injection moulding once you have the dies is fast cheap and they can make hundreds at a time. Metal would need stamping and possible finishing of rough edges.

Ah okay. No bother if not. A couple of the watch groups are good if you do. I don't bother with Instagram myself. I did set up an account but I don't really 'get it'

You might as well just move along then as I guarantee that won't fix it.

@@spidiq8 You're right. My comment was made with tongue in cheek. One of my automatics with NH35a took in pool water. Somehow crown was unscrewed. It started to slow down. I opened it up, removed to movement and soaked in WD40 and it died. So, I moved along... 🙂

@@tech29X I see. I was replying in case anyone thought that was a legitimate thing to try. Thanks for clarifying.

@@spidiq8 Well, I can only attest that I tried and it did not work 😃However, I'm not certain as to why and I might buy a brand new NH35 movement just to test with WD40 to verify. I can't say for certain if the pool water already damaged it or if I somehow hurt it after removing the movement out of the case (my first time). Water Displacement formula#40 seemed like just the right thing for the job (light lubrication, clean spray).