Love it. So glad it's gets a place on the shelf

Hey Phil, really nice job. I love the lighting, the interior, pretty much everything you did. You overcame some serious problems with the kit. Well done, sir! I love your excitement and passion for scale models. Can't wait to see what you have coming next. Keep em coming. I really enjoy your builds.

Hi Phil - loving this build. If you trawl through the Spindrift miniature pages of the Irwin Allen News Network site, you read from someone who, long ago, saw an original Spindrift prop and chip matched its colour to the nearest Testors paint. He said "Model Master International Orange" (which I believe is no longer available) which makes me so glad that, as soon as I read that 8 years ago I ordered four bottles from the States. They are indeed very like to the SW "Hearty Orange" from what I see and in the bottle the paint changes intensity from red to yellowy orange quite beautifully. I have the lower and aft hull of one of my three 1/64s - two Polar Lights and a Doll & Hobby - built and primed. I screwed up about 5 of the Aurora originals as a kid in the 1970s (I'm exactly your vintage) because I couldn't do the stripe neatly (I melted the kits using turps to remove the paint to try again) so that I live in terror, still, of finishing that first Polar lights job. It's been sitting in a box awaiting the top coat for six years.... I now stand in awe of your work and wish I knew to strip model paint with bleach not turps back in 75!

very cool..love the overhead shot with the foliage.

Great build Phil! Turned out amazingly!

Beautiful build, think it's my favourite so far. Also I'm so gutted I can't go to Telford this year, would love to meet you guys, hopefully another time.

The kit looks great finished. It seemed like that it had some issues, but you got it done.

That looks awesome Phill! I'd love to get one of Randy's kits someday.

Will be at Telford hope to see you there at Keiths pitch

Another idea for the spray can. Spray the model with the can, and try a bit of say Tamiya transparent red over that coat?

You noted that in the show "Manhunt" the Spindrift the actors ran around with seemed very light. In the revelatory "paint chip" email that you showcased, it was mentioned that good Mr. Jein also had a "lightweight" version of the ship. So there were several types out there. I would like to see you do the occassional putty and foolin' around-- misery does enjoy company and we, out here, can comiserate! The lighting looks pretty durn good in the dome-- but the dome itself looks small to me. Either it's off or perhaps it should sit on the top (somehow) or needs to be redone altogether. Still... satisfies the look either way. In my loudmouthed but always humble opinion, I say you need twice as many plants for your diorama. Certainly for the background. But I also see that you have not put the ground work in yet, so there's plenty of time. I am very surprised that the various parts of the hull put up such a fight. But they don't call you Two-Fisted Segal for nuthin' A technical word: your LED work is very good. The bread-n-butter hanging of lights is easy but doing it right is time-consuming. But that shows better grades than you give yourself. The acronym "SMD" is for an entire class of electronics, not just LEDs. Surface Mount Device is what's inside your phone, computers, radios-- etc. These are things meant to be handled by assembly robots not people. Thus we struggle. The descriptive numbers are in pairs and decimal millimeters-- so an "0805" is 0.8mm x 0.5mm, pretty durn small. They have mysterious markings and I try never to separate my SMD things from their packaging whenever possible. Something to watch out for when using a coin cell to test polarity of LEDs-- the red LED was the first color to be developed. It is also among the lowest voltages of the whole family of LEDs. As low as 1.25V, or 1.5V. Your coin cell puts out 2.8V to 3V-- so you're baking that red guy for a second. What I mean to say is, just check your polarity and get off that thing. When I was crawling up through the tubes, I read that LEDs wanted 20mAmps of current. That only becomes an issue when you're using different colors of LED-- they can have some very different Voltages. The world of whites generally runs 2.8V to 3.2V, yellow 2.8V, blue 3V to 3.2V-- and so on. One needs a resistor calculator to figure it all out. (They're out there!) Much to my surprise, the SMD versions also run the same currents as their more handy sized counterparts. But! I've seen some projects call for 30mAmps... don't know what to make of that, so I shy away... All looking rather good-- safe travels off in old Blitey! Cheers

Very nice.

Well, Phil, this has been a bit of a marathon. All credit to you for sticking with it and ploughing on. The end result looks absolutely lovely. The cockpit looks amazing! ❤ I really like these long videos as they keep me company in the hobby shed or man cave while I am working on projects so I am happy for more "in the weeds" content 👍

magnifico!

Hi Phil, you’ve done a great job. The lighting looks fab. Enjoyed the build journey.

Looks incredible for a resin kit! Tough when it gets warped, you handled all the problems like a pro. The diorama looks good with the ship!

Are you sure you didn't put the front bit on too far forward Phil.

You want to meet up for a cup of tea tomorrow Phil

And how much do we have to pay for that piece of crap that has all the gaps?.. Sorry but I gotta call it as I see it.