Wow. What an amazing video. When I saw it was 30min I was apprehensive for a random video, but God damn what a gem. You old codger, you're worth every minute!

I really wish there was more content on your channel David - this is gold

That was an oh so delightful walk down memory lane. Good to see you looking well Dave and hopefully one day I'll get the chance to poke around the workshop again.

Definitely an art. Few understand the process and character of wood in the rough, and the demands of quality luthiers. Great video!

very interesting video.

I built my first guitar 6 years ago, A '59 LP replica, I bought the flamed maple top from Dave. It turned out to be a beautiful book matched top. Very nice video!

Oh wow that ceder split so beautifully . Now i want to make another ceder topped guitar😅

Super interesting video!

Not many of there like you David.

That was fascinating stuff. And now I can be a pretend know-it-all on the subject :)

Really valuable video, thanks. I always split sound board woods and I know how it is critical for achieving true sawn and quality tonewood,

fascinating

Greatly satisfying some of those splits. But Paulownia, never again. 🤣

Very difficult and meticulous processes. Now I love my cedar top classical guitar more ❤

I would be interested in purchasing some tops as well.

just a friendly suggestion...use a large wooden (mallet) kind of like a baseball bat but "weightier" i have had luck and it doesnt misshape the fro.

Hi David, I sent you a request recently looking for a Korina billet to make a one piece 58 gibson V neck.

Sir. In your opinion, how minimum diameter of the trees that good for top guitar? Thank's

Splitting wood might be wastefull for most things, but bracing and soundboards are not those. Id rather waste 5 tops worth of wood to make 1 excellent guitar that will be cherished for decades eather then using wood with runout and making several suboptimal guitars

For a better spliting you need a fresh wood cut with sap inside, a "green" wood. Dry wood always split harder and not even...Always use the method of half 10 cm wide block should be split in 2 block of 5 cm.If you wish 2 blocks of 3 cm wide you should have a block of 12 cm wide, that should be split first in 2 block of 6 cm and each block of 6 cm in blocks of 3 cm wide. If you split one block of 5 cm and the other part is 2 cm wide the block of 5cm will peeling wood from the block of 2 cm because it has more strength inside. I do not remember well but I think (perhaps I am wrong) the block of wood should be put up with top up.Where top represent the part that was to the branches not the part to the root.This detail could be very important to reduce loss.... Straight wood will split nice if the wood is fresh cut, with sap inside.If you have a twist towards to the left up to 5 degrees the wood will split straight. If the twist is more than 2 degrees at the right the wood will split asymetrical.So is beter to sawn wood instead of split. I hope this will help you. Split wood when is fresh in blocks apropiate with you final dimensions, after you can sawn to the final dimensions.You will reduce your loss a lot in this way!