Sport Climbing on Dogleg at the Red River Gorge, KY

  Рет қаралды 14,589

FirstPersonBeta

FirstPersonBeta

7 жыл бұрын

Original Attempt(s): • Video
...so 4 years later, I'm at Bob Marley, Dogleg is at Bob Marley,
Oh it's on.
Despite cold temps and logistical issues, shear will (and years of improvement) prevails. Big moves on good holds is a pretty good description, though that's not to say everything is completely there. The crimp rail just after the 3rd draw is a little odd. You could probably clip off it, it's good enough, but depending on which hand you choose to pull off for the next true dyno move may make that a poor choice. The dish at 4:41 isn't huge but enough. The beta I use at that point in the video is not the beta anyone else I saw use. It seemed as if most people need some sort of intermediate for their left hand (I just sucked the gut in and reached through to the good hold). Near miss at 5:57 due to my right foot blowing. I changed up my right toe placement when I pull the move.
It absolutely helps to be tall on this climb. I make no attempts to hide that fact.
I sped up the minute long rest stances so you don't have to listen to me blowing warmth into my hands.

Пікірлер: 19
@PBeetheFox
@PBeetheFox 4 жыл бұрын
8:32 the classic "Why is all this chalk caked on these shitty holds?" experience from the RRG!
@gordonneverdies
@gordonneverdies 7 жыл бұрын
Looking strong Seth!! Thanks for another good one.
@maxmax6100
@maxmax6100 6 жыл бұрын
So easy & so hard at the same time! Great job! :)
@hiker657
@hiker657 7 жыл бұрын
Looks like a super fun route
@TiberiousTheLabrador
@TiberiousTheLabrador 6 жыл бұрын
looks super fun, gives me some hope that I can climb 5.12 outside at some point
@muatazjabri
@muatazjabri 4 жыл бұрын
I climbed this route, very nice & interesting
@badnews9312
@badnews9312 6 жыл бұрын
nice job, good footwork - and no hang dogging after that missed dyno near the top...what happened, not enough slack? some pretty tiny crimpers on that route, well done again
@ChriSchwartz95
@ChriSchwartz95 6 жыл бұрын
Nice climbing! Which shoes are those by the way?
@ToppaliniTube
@ToppaliniTube 3 жыл бұрын
if you're onsighting 12a you could be climbing 14a routes at least if you spent enough time on it, or if you trained hard you could knock out 14s left and right
@SenorTacoClimbing
@SenorTacoClimbing 3 жыл бұрын
It's usually if you onsight 12a you can send 13a, etc
@Aspenflight
@Aspenflight 7 жыл бұрын
way to bleed. good work
@chocolatedumdum2
@chocolatedumdum2 6 жыл бұрын
Maybe 12a for a shorter climber.
@badnews9312
@badnews9312 6 жыл бұрын
- you must be exceptionally tall? It seemed like a series of dynos to big pockets then a couple of crimpers but plenty of foot holds throughout ....no diss on you man - just a lot of new routes I see are graded a tad harder than thirty years ago when climbing in the 12s was really something special.....check out "cobra crack" up at Squamish in Canada...Good job anyway...definitely a hard route to be sure but in the 12s ??? just my opinion
@RideAdventurous
@RideAdventurous 6 жыл бұрын
badnews feel free to jump on it and give it a more accurate assessment.
@spwhitehurst2014
@spwhitehurst2014 6 жыл бұрын
Cobra Crack is a solid 5.14. Comparing any 12 at The Red to a 5.14 finger crack in Squamish is apples and oranges.
@mystyboarder910
@mystyboarder910 6 жыл бұрын
A 12 is a 12. Height, reach, weight and strength affect all climbers differently. He is tall as he states in the description which certainly makes a difference but overall consensus says it is still a 12, it's just a bit easier for him.
@craigsmith4419
@craigsmith4419 6 жыл бұрын
Mike Doyle called it 14.b, so it's not that easy. Doyle is pretty good.
@LongBoy.0
@LongBoy.0 4 жыл бұрын
bitch you can't send it
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