Thank you!

Thanks.

A lot of fab…..and most wouldn’t even realize it or see it, if it wasn’t pointed out. Haha

@@MiniBikeMikeAll that fab work translates into another word for it…”fabulous”!!

I’ll keep this one, it’s the last one I have. I used to have a bunch of them and sold 8 to one guy in South Bend, a few years ago.

😁

We are tripping over them, in my area. Our Honda dealer is the oldest dealer east of the Mississippi River. Same location since 1958. They must have sold a bunch of little bikes, back in the day, because they are everywhere.

Having worked 40 years in the steel/fab business, I kinda enjoy it. I’m over doing it every day, but every once in a while is fun.

Thanks.

Agreed. Doesn’t really look useful to me.

Thanks Jeff!

Thanks!

Thanks. Someone ask me how I go about determining how I’m going to fix or fab something. I really don’t have a good answer. I visualize how I think it should look and just start building. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn’t. Haha

They’re everywhere. 10 new ones pop up for sale on FB every day. Pull the trigger and get one. Or….a brand new Icebear Champion CT70 clone. For $1500, they’re hard to beat.

The avg low is 45° and the avg high is 67° for 4/27. Temps should be good, hopefully rain will stay away. But, we’ll ride in the rain, as long as there isn’t lightning. The temps for the fall ride were really nice.

Seems like it would be a lot harder to move and handle with the bars turned. I think it’s one of those ideas that sounded better than it actually worked.

It was for storage up against a wall or mounted on a camper turn handle bars sideways to get bike closer without cramming bars into stuff.

Thanks. I’m willing to plasma cut the left and right bracket. They would be $35 plus shipping. I am not interested in welding or fabricating the extra pieces needed in the left bracket. That sounds too much like a job…….and I don’t want or need a job.

K4 Mighty Green. I’ve got a Lifan 110cc in this one. Fun little scoot.

@@MiniBikeMike Yes the MIGHTY GREEN! I think it was a 74 or 75 model. I was lucky to have it as a kid.

@deepthinker1918 It’s called a K4. Last model produced before Honda assigned model years to these bikes.

Yes, in the K1 model. For the K0’s, they were red or green.

Ok don’t worry about the 190/212 part of the question, I found it in the other comments

⁠@@joharbSounds like you want to do more than, “… keep up with (the) wife’s 2022 Monkey”. A 140cc will do that, consume less fuel than a 190/212, and not cost an “arm and a leg”, or need you to apply for a mortgage. 💸🤣

@@donsoule6411ok you got me

Thanks!

Thanks. I think I show the key switch wiring in a build video on the yellow SL70, from last fall. I have the switch linked in the description. It’s a standard CT70 K0 switch. I cut the round plug off of it and use 4 of the wires. The green ground wire and the black wire have continuity ONLY in the off position. These two wires get connected to the green wire and black/white wire in the TB harness. The red wire and brown wire of the switch ONLY have continuity in the 2nd on position. They get connected to the red wire and black wire of the TB harness.

@@MiniBikeMike Gotcha. I gathered that it was a CT70 switch. Was curious about how you worked out the round connector. Thanks for the explanation and I'll go back and check out your SL70 video.

In the SL70 video, I kept the round plug and made a jumper. I’m over that now. I just cut the plug off now and add a 4 pin connector. Haha

@@MiniBikeMike That's EXACTLY what I'm going to do.

I use the 22mm. It works fantastic for the 125cc’s, straight out of the box. The 24 will work, but you have to play with the jets and needle height.

When I want signals, I normally use Trail Buddy harness TB422. But, I didn’t have one and had plenty of the TB515. I had to add all the wires needed for signals. I had a flasher plug, from an old harness. I tied one terminal into the harness, for power. The other terminal got a gray wire that ran all the way to headlight. This wire plugs into the turn signal switch. Then I added orange and blue wires that ran the length of the harness for front and rear signals.

As I’ve told other, I’m willing to cut out the two flat plates for $35 plus shipping. I have no interest in welding up the tab needed for the left bracket. That sounds too much like a job and I don’t want or need a job.

@@MiniBikeMike that will work for me. Shipping to peter lynch. 90 glebe road. Spofford Nh. 03462.

👍🏻

Ok I'll bite, what is "bad" about the 190/212cc engines out there?

Probably nothing, with todays engines. Like most, at one point, I felt the need to build a “fast” bike. Well, 15 years ago, the biggest around was a 190. But, it was meant for race applications only, it didn’t even come with a lighting/charging coil. I bite the bullet and picked one up, but the damn thing ran hot, no matter what I tried. It vibrated and ultimately, I just wasn’t a fan of how it looked. Even though I want something slightly bigger than 70cc, I still want it to look stock. I’m not a fan of oil coolers or not being able to bolt on the engine guard. I’m sure the current engines are fine, just not for me……and I’m past needing to go fast.

@@garyhumphreys5742I’ve done a Zongshen 190 and a Piranha 140. The 190 is obviously fast, a good cruiser at 45-mph without high “screaming” revs, however they are very “thirsty” especially when “gulping” from a 0.7 gallon gas tank. I think the 140 is the better power upgrade and are known to be “bullet-proof”. With the 140, the displacement and power are basically doubled, that is when swopping out a CT-70’s engine. And, on a final note, the investment in a 140 doesn’t require as much of a deep-breath, nor taking out a mortgage.

@donsoule6411 Piranha 140’s must be better built than they were 10+ years ago. I’ve built over 60 bikes with Lifan engines…..never once an issue. I used three Piranha 140’s, years ago……1 was ok, 1 randomly bent a valve, 1 had the flywheel break off at the crank.