Well aware this is a year+ late comment but hey, it's still useful! Things learned experimenting with sprue-goo & blue stuff / Oyu Maru thermoplastic clay - sprue-goo behaves more like molasses/honey at between 50-65c. When pressed into ice-cold & dry blue stuff / oyu maru it's heat doesn't add deformities & hotter sprue-goo is less likely to have air-bubbles. ventilation - the acetone content in sprue-goo it requires air flow to evaporate/dry out. Using paperclips to create off-gassing ports helps make sure things dry in a more timely fashion. Still to test - desiccant boxes - same idea as above, creating an low-to-no humidity environment (>5% or lower) for the acetone to evaporate faster. Seem to remember acetone reacting with a lot of the acidic desiccants so this one will be done in a glass box outside. - vacuum chamber - acetone under a 0.05 atmosphere boils at -7c. I also want to see what it does to the thermoplastic.

One downer about sprue goo is the bubbles that are ever present. I believe it's a reaction with the melting process. Still, if not too catastrophic these can be filled with more S.G. later ☺

Very good vid. I used Blue Stuff, it seemed to be the more easily obtained in the UK at the time. Yes the sprue goo does seem to take an age to set/cure, but it's worth the wait. Sprue goo is better for smaller items, I've succeeded in repairing/replacing broken VERY OLD GW ork archers by making a cast of the part on a complete figure, then put in the damaged figure and filling the gap with S.G. which melds to the original. Give it plenty of time to set and there will be quite a bit of flash to clean up but what the heck, you have a now usable model ☺ I've also replaced a 40K terminator sword this way too.

You need to let the acetone evaporate, so once you have tightened the mold to press the shape in, you should loosen it, so the acetone can get away,

Thanks for the recasting of the original tip, it does work pretty well.

Blue stuff is pretty much the same as Oyumaru... I've been wating to see someone do this as I did not want to risk damaging my blue stuff. But now I see it works. Thanks

About to try this with some gindam parts i hope it can get into the connecting piecse cause my sazabi really needs another axe and im not about to pay $20 for 3 pieces of plastic when i can make whatever i want with what i already have

Sprue glue is for filling in gaps on kits you add little bits of sprue into a half full bottle of tamiya extra thin glue you don’t need any thing else as when it’s used as a filler the air drys it

Lego blocks and blue stuff I use sometimes I use a stemmed to sand down the bumps to flat sand it a little then I can build up around and fit a mould . Or you can press for them depends on your task really . Then fill with Milliput and or green stuff I use for adding details to my 40k army .

😄 The sprue goo proliferation is nuts.

very interesting, i may give this a try sometime. Thank you for sharing

You could try rinsing the acetone w/ isopropyl to accelerate drying

I'm going to experiment with casting mediums, like plaster of Paris, or sculpey. I'll try to let you know how I go.

actually thinking of doing this since a model kit lost a part (fell off somewhere) and the other option was to get another one

I love Oyu maru, but I fucking HATE how its caught on so much here in North America. You can get it at a dollar store in Japan, but here the average price is 5$ for a stick on the low end.

We are on the same acetone journey. Finding good mold material in Puerto Rico is a pain so im sculping the stuff by hand. On my channel theres a playlist called The Road to Nurgle, its all the models ive made. Stop on by and roast my work lol

Use Milliput.

You'll get better results with a form for you mold, as to apply equal pressure on all surfaces. You should also use green stuff, miliput, or a 50/50 mix of the two. I've used it to copy Krieger heads and Tempestus Scion bodies and they all turn out awesome.