I suggest making a Lego frame to make neat square molds.

50 50 miliput greenstuff mix, and clean the excess off the mould before pressing together. Cast in a small lego box for no mould expansion when casting the original piece.

From what I remember watching tutorials with this stuff, the secret to 2 stuff molds is to use toothpicks to provide channels for the extra material to go out of when you squish the two halves together

What I've done is put down a few layers of watered down liquid green stuff to capture the detail, then put down the solid green stuff to block it out. It's flexible enough, versatile enough, and it captures great detail

I was half expecting a Goobertown Hobbies insert with Brent explaining why the plastics stuck together.

Thank you for including the bit with the plastic bag, it's very useful to know that that isn't an option

I’ve used sculpy to make molds of Gundam parts that I’ve lost, and then sculpy again to cast them. It’s worked alright.

Plasmo has got to be my favourite diorama/ WW2 modeller in existence

Make a small mold case for the blue stuff before pressing the part in. I use plastic card or popsicle sticks. This helps with keeping a consistent thickness beneath the part as well as controlling the amount of blue stuff you use.

Here comes the most powerful unit GW’s ever come up with: Lawyers!

From the small amount I know about UV resin I think your problems with it's curing might have come from the blue stuff mold's blue color. The color and opacity of the mold can affect how evenly and easily the UV light reaches the resin. This can cause some areas to cure unevenly or take forever to cure if the mold is absorbing or blocking a significant amount of UV light.

if you want to cast something like the wings, get some casting silicone. make a 2 piece mold, and measure out how much casting material you'll need. with sufficient pressure on both sides of the mold, you'll only have to do minor cleanup.

Hanging out with Dave is probably my favorite segment

One great medium for making recasts is your old sprues..simply soak in acetone and once soft use them,they take a while to set but once they do they work a treat

Referred to this channel by a friend. I liked your realistic expectations, given recasting would require a lot of trial and error/experience for everyone in the beginning.

I found that type of molding putty is great for 1 sided stuff like shields or duplicating resin bases. Making a good 2 sided mold requires a lot more practice.

I've recently discovered bluestuff & have been making some lounges & bucket seats for boats, trucks & cars in 1/35 using fibreglass resin. They come out with a cloth like texture.

For alignment, have you tried making a few dent in the first mold part, so when you make the second piece it would form some sort of tongue and groove fit

I've dabbled with recasting. I've found success with two part silicon molds. I use a lego box frame and press an even layer of plasticine clay into it. I then press the model on it's sprue or custom venting into the clay up to the part's mold line, and poke keying holes in the corners and voids. I mix up silicon and pour from a height in one corner of the mold box. Once it has set, I disassemble, leaving the model in the silicon, but cleaning all the clay off. Then you just flip it over, rebuild the box, dust the silicon with very small amount of talcum powder, the pour another batch of silicon over it to make the other half.

It's pretty good with a single sided mould, two part moulds are tricky, imho. But it's awesome for recasting small details, imho. Especially handy in kitbashing.