I wholeheartedly agree ! As a retired sheet metal worker a 90deg elbow just chokes the draw of the fire

Another thing if you have an open fireplace and you have a chimney fire sprinkle salt across the top of the fire and it will slow it down

with that those angles, the smoke will cool and leave more creosote from the 1st angle and up. also, large part of the stack is outdoors and subject to the temp outside which will cool the smoke. if the fire chokes out when starting, that is a good sign the airflow is being restricted and time for cleaning. clean that stack every 2-4 weeks, he will have no problem. add a battery operated smoke alarm above the stove, if he does have chimney fire, the smoke alarm will save his ass. the alarm won't go off upon starting unless the fire is being choked out, which means clean the stove and stack.

That is great advice..thanks.

Henry Zabel, As a mason for almost 40 years I find that fire fighters give some of the worst advice to home owners when it comes to chimneys. Id encourage people not to take your advice and think logically about a cup of water being able to do anything but maybe put out the fire in the fireplace or woodstove, and also think about what will happen if you get cold water on the glass doors or window of your wood stove. So not only would the chimney still be a roaring fire you'll have broken glass and even more oxygen rich air feeding the fire because you've lost your door. A fire suppression stick, such as the one made by Rutland, would put the fire out almost certainly and if not add another stick. Secondly always burn seasoned firewood. If you don't know what seasoned firewood looks like or you buy your firewood from someone I would recommend buying it a year in advance. Store it outside with the top covered and keep it off the ground, pallets work good for keeping airflow circulating through the stack and keeping it off the ground. A few months prior to using your now seasoned firewood cover entirely to keep the sides from getting wet. Have a your chimney cleaned and inspected yearly. Add a creosote fighter to your arsenal. I have seen it come in a powder form and liquid. I have personally seen that this stuff works if used accordingly. But the chimney will still need to be properly sweped to clean out the loose creosote. As far as the elbows on this gentleman's woodstove he is more than fine as far as draw goes. Having the pipe that runs horizontal coming out of the stove pitched up hill is more important than a couple of 90's restricting airflow. Look up what a masonry heater is. By some of the comments I've seen they shouldn't be able to even burn properly with all of the 90 degree turns they make. Yet a properly built masonry heater is 80- 90% efficient. Which rivals most natural gas furnace. I tell people if you burn properly seasoned firewood and have your chimney looked at by a professional the chances of a chimney fire in nearly zero.

Lol, thank you for some common sense

Right!!! I was thinkin he woulda ran the moment the bush moved lol

I was literally just thinking this! Mine would have been in another county as soon as that rope was tight!

Cat ain't skeered!

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Yeah code is different here. That is a ceramic tile that looks like wood. And those are 15 degree bends not 30. I could have done 45's on the inside instead if the 90 but most stoves here use a 90. Just looks nicer

Yea it also costs $6k 😂

I would say that really depends on wood. If I put in a nice big piece of hardwood I wake up at 630am and there are still embers. Also, leaving 2 inches of ash in the bottom helps, I always have a bed of hot embers in the stove and can just through in some wood in the morning a d it gets going again.

lol and there it is

It's in the basement

That's what I was thinking!

This dood does this for a living, I think he knows what he's doing

This is a common misconception. Chimney should be the opposite of air ductwork. You want the crimps pointing down. When creosote gets hot it will run down the insides of the flu and you want it to stay inside the pipe and get back down to the wood stove, if you put the crimps the other way it will leak out all along the sides of the flue. Also, the flu has a draft that pulls the air up, it is not being forced up by the stove but rather pulled up from the top, this means it will try to pull air from outside the flu through any cracks at joints to the inside. Meaning, you should never ever have smoke leaking through the joints. if you do you have a draft issue. Hope that helps explain why I choose to install it in that manner.

Simply peel them off slowly.