That was a great tip!!!

also I finally find a solution; I put an iron rod inside a zinc channel by staming the front iron tif and passing to the a touch all is shedding together and here is a very strong montage for a ceiling light like pyramid hole and inquired

I finally find a solution I put an iron rod inside a zinc rod by staming the front iron tif and passing by to the touch all is shedding together and here is a very strong montage for a ceiling light like pyramid hole and inquired

The difference between lead and solder is .... solder is a little stronger (it's a tin/lead alloy) and melts at much lower temperature. The completed profile of the lead came is mimicked in the use of copper foiling techniques. The solder is flowed in between the glass parts (center of a lead came) and beaded over the copper foil on the face and reverse of the panel (the rounded parts of a lead came profile)

Gregory Halye how long is the longevity of the glue copper foil to the cement used in lead came window. and the weathering.

calvinfbrown The longevity of the glue is of no consequence. It has served it's purpose in merely holding the copper foil in place so that the solder bonds to the foil and forms the shape that would have been provided by the lead came in the first place. Quite literally, if the glue lasts longer than 24 hours, it's over-performing by a long shot ... it only needs to last long enough to solder your project together and that's it. After that point, the solder or the lead is all that is needed to hold the glass in place. As for the "cement" you are talking about ... is this for actual installation into a window frame? If you are referring to putting the pieces of lead came together, they are soldered with (usually) 60/40 tin/lead solder. If you are talking about installing the completed window pane, any kind of traditional or modern cement or sealer can be used to weatherproof the edges and usually you would use a reinforced backing around the edging to keep the pane from being pushed out of place by children or curious pets (and people). As for weathering ... lead is lead. It does corrode, but at a fairly slow pace. You still want to apply some sort of patina to it to provide a form of "artificial weathering" effect to make it look old, or to provide a separate metallic finish that will withstand the weathering better than plain lead (for lead came). Another reason for applying the patina to the lead came style is that the pure lead lines and the soldered joints will weather differently, as tin does not corrode as easily as lead. For other types of patina as well as for the copper foil method, patinas provide different contrasting colors for the borders and inner outlines of your work to the colors of glass used. If properly maintained, the patina will outlast plain solder by many years and can still look beautiful long after the original artist is dead and buried ... for many examples, walk around an old church in England.

Gregory Halye the window will let water through then. there isn't weather proofing then.

calvinfbrown Using the proper method of copper foiling or lead came and soldering will result in a weatherproof pane of glass. Sealing around the exterior during installation will make the window frame weatherproof as normal. It would take several hundred years for solder or lead to corrode to the point of losing it's weather resistance and allowing water through without actual tampering to the seal created with the copper foiling method, and while you would need a MUCH better fit with the lead came method, it should be just as durable over time.

An Hoa Tran hummm person has NO presense on KZfaq 0 videos 0 help and complains ..... wow good luck

+An Hoa Tran well, you do one better!!!!

Some folks need to hear something more than once to seal it into their minds.....

An Hoa Tran then I suggest you use common sense and do not watch...go somewhere else and watch someone who does not know what they are doing...and learn the wrong way!!!!