Perfect. Thank you for making this more in depth video.

G'day John . 65 and just getting into it . I've been looking for Aussie luthiers looks like you're it mate . Just subbed . Steaming eh ? That should get the die hards talking hehe . Cheers , happy New Year .

Thank you very much for sharing this knowledge! I've just bought used guitar, and later realized that it needs a neck reset. Your method can save me a lot!

I just did this, not like you but similar. I do belly down. I steam the entire neck for hours. And, after I find your video. Crazy. Google is watching me.

You, sir, are a legend for taking the time to show this amazing new technique to the world, I had nearly given up after watching how hard other methods are. assuming I can get this to work for me. which I'm sure it will after watching your two videos, ill have my old guitar back.

I have actually used a similar technique using heat and NO steam on two Spanish necks that had imploded into the sound hole with great success. I did have to reglue a brace and cleat the break. These guitars have subsequently been appraised at over 8K each. I have also used a steel bar that is also heated and clamped to straighten a bowed neck. I had not seen these videos. My only alternative would have been to change the guitars to bolt on necks by sawing them off, which would have greatly impacted their value. If they has had dovetail neck joints I would have gone the traditional route, but the next time I get a beater in with the problem I might try the steam solution.

Well after 3 full weeks of clamping and steaming (3 to 5 times, roughly 1 to 3 days apart) and then removing all clamps and towels and allowing it to dry out for a full week before stringing, this seems to be a big success on my first victim (a high-grade Japanese solid spruce-top classical guitar from the mid 70s). I play bossa nova and jazz, and I like my action quite low, around 2 mm instead of the usual 3 to 4 mm that classical players like. Without changing the bridge saddle at all, this guitar went from about 3 1/2 mm string height at the 12th fret to about 1.5 mm. Plays like a dream without buzzing. I’ve only had it strung up for a few days, and won’t mind a bit if it raises up another half millimeter or so. A couple of tips from my experience so far: be careful about what material you are clamping the back of the guitar down onto for that Well after 3 full weeks of clamping and steaming (3 to 5 times, roughly 1 to 3 days apart) and then removing all clamps and towels and allowing it to dry out for a full week before stringing, this seems to be a big success on my first victim (a high-grade Japanese solid spruce-top classical guitar from the mid 70s). I play bossa nova and jazz, and I like my action quite low, around 2 mm instead of the usual 3 to 4 mm that classical players like. Without changing the bridge saddle at all, this guitar went from about 3.5mm string height at the 12th fret to about 1.5 mm. Plays like a dream without buzzing. I’ve only had it strung up for a few days, and won’t mind a bit if it raises up a bit. A couple of tips from my experience so far: be careful about what material you are clamping the back of the guitar down onto for that long period, so as to protect the finish. Also I noticed a slight warping on the back of the guitar a few inches down from the heel of the neck (where presumably steaming and clamping has forced it in that direction). I would advise releasing the front and back of the guitar from traction every week or so look at the back, to make sure that you’re not inducing too much warping on the back of the guitar. I wonder if reinforcing that area would help or hurt. I didn’t chintz out on the steaming/clamping/drying time. Straight edge on the fretboard hit roughly halfway down the bridge on these guitars before this process, and without measuring I just gradually clamped down the neck until the straight edge was roughly 3 or 4 mm above the top of the bridge, knowing that there would be some springback. This approach seems to have hit a sweet spot for this guitar. I’ve got another old Japanese classical laminate top which is drying out, and two more Vintage Japanese solid top classicals in traction now, and I’m excited about making all of them easily playable once again. Thank you John Miner!

You helped me a lot. Thank you very much!!

I'll attest to the soundness of this approach, at least regarding Ovation guitars. 30 years ago (about 1993), early on a hot summer day, I left my Ovation guitar in the trunk of my car. Stupid, stupid, stupid. Late in the afternoon, I realized what I'd done, opened the trunk, and was hit with the unique smell of reheated fiberglass resin. I opened the case to discover that the guitar had bowed up almost comically - the strings were maybe a full inch off the fretboard at the neck-body joint! (The neck remained pretty straight and, amazingly, the wood tongue of the fretboard didn't crack.) I figured the best way to repair the instrument was to do the same thing again - heat it up - and guide it back to where it needed to be. I built a jig with clamps much like the one John Miner uses, and I heated the body through the soundhole with an industrial heat gun. I directed the heat at the neck-body joint and s-l-o-w-l-y brought the neck back into alignment with the body. It worked beautifully. I still have the guitar, and it plays like a dream. Now, 30 years on, I'm about to do it again on a Wechter Pathmaker. Maybe I'll report back here when I'm done.

Thank you so much! I will be trying it on a Yamaha fg160. You’re the best!

I have a martin 000-28 damn things only 18 months old and i need to fo this Ive had 3 000-28s and they all had very little room to adjust the saddle from new Great solution thank you 👍

Thanks John, this was a great demo and very enlightening. I’m going to give it a try. I have several old guitars that are unplayable.

Thanks John, from a Kiwi, part time hobby luthier. That, really makes sense. I've also noticed, that guitars which are in that pre reset condition. Often the area beside the sound hole has sunken, just a fraction. I've had success, making a plate from scrap back and sides material. Forning it so it fits that area between the braces. Then gluing and clamping it to the inside of that area. It flattens the dip and raises the neck. Sometimes I also create an additional cross brace for inside the neck end of the sound hole. I create it. with a curve on the gluing edge. . I clamp, glue and Siamese it to, the existing cross brace. Fixing the problem, not the symptoms of the problem. I hope what I've posted, makes sense?

Hi, Im giving it a try on a Yamaha 440 12 string, got it set up now and have just finished its first hit with steam. I will give it another steam tomorrow and then wait a week for the next steam and wait another week for final steaming. Im going to let it sit in the jig for another week then remove it and let it sit for a few days before stringing it up. Hopefully it will work as I have another WAshburn 12 string that needs the bridge lifted up.

I wish all DIY videos were as striaght forward as this one and I also wish i hadve seen this video years ago before damaging a few guitars and having to refinish touch up or admit defeat on a few choice and regrettable neck resets ive done in the past including a 1946 Banner head Gibson where the original finish peeled off the shoulders of the guitar slashing its value by may thousands of dollars you prove the the simplest way is usually illusive yet when discovered the best way. Next please explain the building of the great pyramid of Egypt and the world will be able to finally live harmoniously and with much better playing guitars!!! haha Thank you good sir hat is off to you

Thank you for this John, this is going to be a life saver I suspect. If you were doing this to a classical guitar would you allow the upper harmonic bar to also get steamed with the idea that it's a big part of the structural equation for that area? Thanks!

Hello just tried this method on a yamaha FG 75 Nippon Gakki great result put in a new bone saddle did not even have to trim the saddle, actio at the 12th fret 2mm on big E. 3 weeks, 4 steamings till really warm around heal and fretboard and 4 dats to dry out works great!!! THANK YOU JOHN

Thankyou for your simple commonsense approach. I have had success on 3 guitars. I have been putting the end clamp over the metal tube rather than on the end of the headstock. Just a bit wary about too much downward pressure on the neck. As I recall, that's where the clamp was in your earlier video.

Hello John, this video is brilliant I am going to try this on an old Yamaha Fg 160 I have it sounds great but action is way too high. Good stuff from Ireland.

awesome thankz for the tip!

Hi John, made my jig a month ago, have a fender cutaway in now for a month. Looking good so far, will remove from jig this coming week, really hope for good results as I have several in need. Thanks for tips. Ps: I’ve removed the electronic components as to prevent corrosion Cheers. Andy , Alberta Canada

Nice video. Wise problem solving. Thanks John! For me, because I'm a little afraid to rem0ve the nut, I would be making a slot in the neck brace that would accommodate the nut, so that the nut wouldn't need to be removed.

I just did my first shot of steam tonight! I used a 2 x 12 piece of pine ,cut to the length of the guitar, and it served as a really nice jig board …easy to clamp and simply put it on sawhorses. Fun times. I hope it works. Thank you, John!!!

Great video John and excellent walkthrough of the technique! I'm excited to give this a try. Have you or anyone here in the comments done this on a Harmony guitar with a non adjustable steel rod in the neck? I'm wondering if that would make a difference. I have a 67 Stella that I'm hoping to bring back to life.

Trying it on an old "Odell" guitar, just did a second steam. May take a few more I'm guessing. Thanks John.

John, this is absolutely wonderful! Do you have any ideas on how we might use this technique with f hole guitars?

John, this is amazing. I am seriously considering this method. Are there any precautions or advice about avoiding possible damage to the urethane finish on top? Just trying to think things through here. Thank you very much.

Will the steam weaken and soften the glue in the body joints?

I saw some luthier vlogger who done it for yamaha fg 160 did not succeed. in minutes went back to original position.

I would love to do this on my Guild D25M but might have to give it a look on the Yamaha first. Mind blown. I was waiting for the neck to come off .. wow.

Thank you Mr. Miner!! Do you loosen the truss rod nut before you do this??

Why can't you just lift the fretboard extension and put a wedge underneath it can you do that if the action is good up top but then falls away on the fretboard extension can you just put a wedge underneath it

I tried it and warped the back pretty good 🤦‍♂️😅. Did I just go to aggressive too fast?

I got dimpling on the side and top. Is that too much heat?

Love your Video: Is it possible to do this neck re-set with out removing the original 1971 FG 170 bone nut? Which has a small crack & I hate to lose it. So the bar would got right up to the nut? PS: Some of the FG 170 were made at the Nippo Gakki LTD !D-1 Nakazawacho Hamamsu Japan factory for Japan market only. Tan label with hand written K,. No serial # WOOD: Back: Mahogany, Sides Mahogany, Neck: African mahogany, Fingerboard: Rosewood Bridge: Rosewood, Solid Sitka Spruce Top

Ever done a 12 string?

What size are the clamps?

Did the steaming and neck came up a bit above bridge but now when strung frets out at 13 th fret. The intonation was terrible before steaming, now is spot on. But what to do about fretting out on 13th fret and above?

You say steam till warm to very warm. You apply 20:to 30 seconds and say "might go for another minute". Using identical steamer for around 15 seconds I get heat damage to top surface ... No way I could steam for a full minute.

I haven’t seen a mention of the truss rod. Is that adjusted or loosened at all with this method?

I have a guitar with a reglued headstock. Can I clamp to the aluminum bar to pull the neck down instead?

Hi John, thanks for sharing your insights. Please can you update with the belly bulge resolution.

My guitar has a small gap at the base of the heel. I’m guessing that if the heel has pulled out that this technique will not fix the problem. Any thoughts?

Thanks John, Do you adjust the relief with the truss rod before the reset?

Hi. Is it possoble damage the internal of the guitar witj the steam?

Are you clapping to the brace underneath the neck ? or to the body with the clamp on the sound hole ?

Hi John, have you used this method with success on a classical guitar?

what brand of steam machine do you have

Hey John. What are the dimensions of the square tubing you're using?

I would suggest not doing this. All this did to my $2500 guitar is bubble up the finish up by the neck joint back and sides about 6 inch spots where I was spraying the steam. I did this method about 6 times throughout 2 months. And then the last time I did it, I figured I must not be doing it for long enough, so steamed the neck joint for about 1 minute each side which just bubbled up the finish and now it's a junk guitar. And worst of all it didn't work

100% success rate? I am 100% skeptical. I am however glad to see that you are not doing this on a more valuable instrument. I certainly try repair techniques on beginner guitars that I would never use on a fine guitar

His accented speech is barely understandable to a USA English speaker.

Don't trust him 😡