What size kitty is required for this adjustment?

I love the shop help you keep around. It makes a word of a difference to have a meowing good apprentice lol

Glad I don't need to rent a cat for this job... Excellent video! Many thanks! I believe this is causing a loud CLUMP noise when I turn my wheels to far right... It looks like two metal pieces jumping or clashing... I might be a pinion tooth sliding and jumping over the rack teeth... It would sound EXACTLY like what I am having on my Jeep Grand Cherokee 2006. Thanks a lot!

if anyone cant find the tool he used for adjustment just go to hardware store and get a nut that fit inside then use channel locks on half the exposed nut

good thing you got yourself an inspector🐈‍⬛

Honestly good video got a cat that likes to help to. Video makes sense

This actually makes a difference ... Thanks

straight to the point! thanks

thank you sir its help a lot God bless po.

Thanks Alot

White cat needs gloves or a different job. Good to count the turns on the nut when removing so to know where point "a" was. Thanks for the vid.

To make sure job is well done. Cats are absolully necessary..😅

Cat is very important for this procedure

I had a serious bad klunk in a new rebuilt R&P. with 500 miles on it. The installer gave up on this noise. Sounded like the wheel was gonna break off on a turn. So I got the front wheels off the ground, turned that nut in about a 2/3 turn and backed off. Most of that klunking was gone now and the steering was nice and tight. But the damage was done from all the klunking done by loose gears skipping from a loose setting. And so had to replace the R&P again. This time I got a Toyota factory rebuilt one. And this time I knew what to do if there was anymore Klunks. Sure enough even with a Toyota factory rebuild R&P there was that klunk. The same shop gave up again. I was like whatever. I got home...jacked up the Truck right away, before the R&P gears got damaged again. Sure enough the setting was way too loose. I turned that nut in 2/3 turn, backed off slightly and waalaaa !! Nice' n Tight... Rack and Pinion and No...more... gear klunks !! Funny and crazy thing was how the shop would laugh about KZfaqr fix it videos that people watch !!! Well this Vid. done what bench shops and shops wouldn't do...set them gears firm and snug. Loose settings is not good at all. They just replace the racks. Thanks again.

This bolt fixed click in the low speed ?I replace tie end but not noise stay

I dont know man, but most of the the mechanic asked me to change the rack, it is like they dont even know or at least try to adjust this

What is the tool you are using to remove the adjustment screw?

What is the tool you are using to tighten the rack and pinion? Thanks

I'm trying to pull out that crescent piece that pushes against the rack and it won't budge. Any suggestions?

Boss anu twag jn mag order po Sana Ako pang hi ace cumuter

My steering is tight. Should I loosen the adjustment a bit?

Manual steering rack is the same for all ef models?

What kind of grease do you use and what is the tool to remove the screw?

Ilang mm po yung hex po? Salamat

What kind of grease should we need?

Mechanic cat

What type of grease did you use ? Thanks

Us just regular lubricant or special one?

The cat. Came to inspect

Pwede po ba 'to sa hydraulic power steering? Salamat po in advance

cat inspector : )

sir ung sakin tumatabingi po sa ang manibela, pinatuwid qna po pero bumabalik parin tabingi. yan po ba ung inaadjust?

What car?

Do not do this. If your rack has a dead zone, and you increase preload, you increase the chance of binding up the rack once outside of your “dead zone” You only do this on new racks, that come out of adjustment. You only do this if you have a “constant” tightness or looseness from lock to lock that isn’t variable. Basically, you should never do this. That’s not there for you to take up the slack from wearing your rack down. Thats there because of how a rack and pinion works. KZfaq is the perfect example of “Just because you can, doesn’t mean you should”