Thanks ! Glad the videos help some with these finicky convertible tops and their issues 👍. All the best ! Steve

Hey again ! Sorry to hear it’s still giving trouble. The no start condition could be quite a few things...some very simple like the switch on the brake pedal going bad and not letting the computer know that you have your foot on the brake to start...you can check that by pressing the pedal when it won’t start and having someone check to be sure the brake lights illuminate. It could also be that the shifter is not registering that it is in park. It could also be something failing with the computer system or the communications network between the various modules getting hot and shutting down and then cooling back down and working again. It’s very hard to tell unless it’s hooked up to a PC to scan for issues as there’s so many things that will not allow it to register everything is ok and then allow the computer to engage the starter. Sorry I couldn’t be much help, but you might start by checking the brake lights when it does it and also move the shifter a little to see if it’s not sending a good park position signal.

Thanks man and glad the video helped some 👍. All the best ! Steve

Hello, sorry for the late reply as I was on vacation. For manually re-locking the soft top to the front window top, there isn’t a hard stop that you can feel when it’s fully locked back again. There are some Hall effect sensors that control the stop position so the car needs to know that the sensor is made before it will indicate that the top is locked. The only way to know would be to either take the whole plastic cover off of the locking section of the soft top (the section above the sun visors when the top is covering the car) or you could buy the OBDii cable from websites like Bimmergeeks.com or bcables.com that come with the INPA software used to diagnose BMWs. There are several videos in the channel under the BMW 650i playlist that show how to correct issues with these soft tops…some also show using the INPA software and how the sensors work to tell the car it is home and locked. Hope this helps a bit and all the best ! Steve

Thanks ! Glad you got yours back to working 👍. All the best ! Steve

Thanks 👍. Yep, if once you get it closed up manually and then if you press the soft top button that would finalize the closing and it won’t complete the sequence and then allow the rear window to close, then there must be a sensor faulting that’s giving an error. If the rear compartment did not latch back due to the fault (you can still lift it up with your fingers at the seam between it and the car body) there’s another video that shows how to access the compartment lid’s latches and push them in to latch with a screwdriver, but it requires that the side carpet be removed from the trunk to access the back of the latching cylinder. It’s not complicated, but quite annoying that BMW didn’t plan for a way to latch the compartment back once the top is moved manually. If, once the latches are pushed back forward, the rear window still will not move by pressing the button on the drivers side door to illuminate the rear window led and then pulling up on the right rear quarter panel window switch, then there must still be a sensor faulted and you may need to purchase the OBDii cable and download the INPA software (usually available on the sites where the cable is purchased) so you can scan the system and determine which sensor is faulting. Hope this helps a bit and if you can’t find the video on the channel for how to push the compartment latches back in the 650i playlist, just let me know and I’ll comment back with the link to it. All the best ! Steve

Mark Curtis , hello...some of the faults (like a segment sensor fault) will allow you to press the close button after you have manually closed the top and it will finish the cycle (the lid will latch and then the side and back windows will go back up), but other faults (like a bad rear window hall sensor) won’t allow anything to move (including the side windows) once you pull the cables so then the windows are stuck down🤯😩...I guess better to just have the windows down than the complete top open, but still a major flaw in BMW’s thinking IMO. You are exactly right that I think at the point you have to manually close the top, BMW was thinking we would just take it to the shop for them to fix as they made no easy way to latch the lid back. There is a way though, but it involves removing the side carpet in the trunk to access a small triangle shaped hole in the body. Then the latch can be pushed and it will pull the cable back in (and allow the side windows to be raised for the faults that disable them). I actually made a video of how to relatch the lid if the car won’t complete the cycle just in case someone has the issue with it disabling the side windows. Here’s the link: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/abelltionsWoe6s.html . The convertible is definitely a fun car to have and drive, but it does come with a whole new set of potential issues vs just a hard top. My wife loves the convertible so much though, I’m willing to keep it working for her 👍. Hope this helps, Steve

Robert Cote , hey man ! So when the four side windows go down partially, does the back window also go completely down? If it isn’t giving an error, but stops in the sequence, it is waiting on the conditions to be met to move to the next step or it is trying the next step, but like you said something like a fuse is preventing it from powering so it can complete the step is doing. There are several other videos out on my channel under the e64 Playlist that show things about the top malfunctions. One video shows the sequence of steps it does while my diagnostic PC is attached that shows the different sensors making so this might be helpful as well. Reply back on if your rear window does go down and that will tell a bit more about what it might be doing. Steve

Hey Steve. Just been looking through your videos. Your knowledge is amazing! I have the same problem as Robert. 2004 645Ci. My roof worked fine until a few weeks ago. Now, I press the open button, status light stays green with no warnings, windows drop halfway and my back window drops all the way. Then nothing. I cannot hear anything, no unlocking, no motor. My roof will not come down. If i release the open switch then repress it, the side windows go down all the way. I tried to open via pressing the unlock button on the key but no joy. Finally have a bit of sun in the UK but I can't enjoy it! Any ideas please? I would be very grateful! Thanks.

Pp😊p😊ll😮

Hey man ! Yep, out on the channel is a video on how to re-latch the compartment cover manually...here’s a link to it: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/abelltionsWoe6s.html . BMW didn’t really plan to have to do this, but it can be done by removing the carpet in the trunk and then pushing the lift cylinders forward to close the catches. If you open the top’s compartment lid and look to the back where the lift cylinders are, there’s a triangular shaped hole in the metal...when you take out the carpet in the trunk you’ll see these and how to push the cylinders forward to close the latches that are attached to the front of each cylinder. Hope this helps 👍. Steve

Hey man ! Yep, the procedure is basically the opposite of the video on the movement to retract the top. It’s good that the front will release and pop up a bit so you don’t have to deal with manually moving the latching motor. Once you move the top to open the front up a bit, you’ll then have to take your physical key that’s inside your key fob and unlock the trunk under the trunk emblem. Then you just pull the two cables in the truck and it outs into manual mode. You’ll then lift the wings by hand, lift the compartment lid, and then grab the soft top and lift it so that it goes into the compartment.

@@StevesDIYs Steve, Thanks for replying, I am very grateful. Not sure about the bit where I pull the two cables as they are already pulled out which I had to do to do the emergency manual closing of the top. I pulled these and they are rock solid and will not pull out any more and the wings are rock solid on the compartment lid.

@@doncleland no problem 👍. Question…how far up does the front section come up once it unlatches? If it only going up a couple of inches and not fully popping up, then the tension cables that run along inside the soft top have not fully retracted to allow the wings to come up I’d bet. If it’s erroring before the front section fully gets up, you will probably have to manually turn the front latching motor that is above the front window in the center (when the top is closed over the car) to finish the cycle of the motor to allow the cables to retract. There should be a crank handle tool in the trunk in the tool kit that you can use to manually turn the motor to finish the cycle. Once the front part is fully up like normal as it does when retracting, this should allow the wings to be lifted up I believe. Let me know if that doesn’t get you anywhere and I’ll go out and look at my car to see just what would prevent the wings from being able to be lifted.

@@StevesDIYs The front section only comes up a few inches before heavy resistance is felt. I did manually turn the latching motor fully tight to close and when I tried to lower top I did slacken it off so that the jaws no longer engaged. Do you mean that I have manually turn the latching motor fully the other way to release the tension cables, to allow the wings to lift?. Thanks, Don

@@doncleland hey again, yes, the front latching motor is also what pulls the mechanism that puts (or takes away) tension on the complete soft top. When you turn the motor to unlatch the catches and it starts to rise, the normal action is that the motor keeps turning to lift the front as well as take the tension off of the side cables. In order to simulate the full movement of the top, you’ll need to continue to manually rotate the motor until the catches fully retract and the top has lifted up something like ten inches or so from the top of the window. You can help it some with your hand by pushing up on the front part of the soft top as you turn the motor manually (my motor is getting weak over the years so o even help it by pushing up as it’s lifting the front part of the soft top). If, by turning the motor even after the latches unlatch until the front parts lifts up to the normal height doesn’t allow the wings to be lifted, then there maybe something wrong with the pivots or arms in the compartment that is putting it into a bind possibly.

Glad to hear the video helped 👍. Yep, when the top gives an error, it disables the boot and the roof movement...I’ve never checked to see if it disables the horn, but that one seems odd. If you pulled the manual pulls in the trunk to be able to close it and it still has an error, it will also disable the side windows too unfortunately. There’s a video on the channel for how to push the manual cable latches back to kick the compartment lid that will allow the side windows to function again. For the issue, it could be the segment sensor causing the issues (there’s a video on the channel for that as well as it is a very common problem). I’d probably start there and see as it sounds like your pump is still working if it lifted at least half way. If the segment sensor reads an incorrect segment, the motion will just stop and give an error as the car doesn’t think the wings are in the right spot and won’t risk crashing into them with the top movement. Hope this helps a bit and all the best ! Steve

@@StevesDIYs Thanks Steve, you have been more helpful than BMW!

@@StevesDIYs Your vids on 6 series compliment Timm's, I've told him about your site kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qtiirLp30tWwdI0.html

@@jonathanevans9257 thanks man 👍. Yep, BMW doesn’t want to deal with these anymore in my opinion...they had never been much help on anything I’d called them for in the past before I started working on them my self.

@@jonathanevans9257 , thanks 👍. Yep, the more info folks can find in these the better so links to other good KZfaq sites are always a good thing as folks sometimes scroll through the comments 👍. All the best ! Steve

Hey again ! It’s been a bit since I had to hook up my INPA to the car as it hasn’t been grumpy or doing anything wrong in quite a while lol ! It seems like on the software version I have, you have to hold the Alt or Cntl key to get it to select the e64 series (or it might even say just e60 on the selection menu as BMW used that designation it denote all of the e6X series vehicles). I do need to check for a faulty tire pressure monitor that’s periodically faulting once I’m back at the shop so I’ll look to see what menu I have to select to get to the convertible top section on mine. I downloaded the software from both Bimmergeeks.com as well as have a different version that came with another cable I bought from bcables.com. I tend to use the Bimmergeeks version most of the time for the 650i though (I sometimes have to use ISTA on my M6 as it lets me see more info and that was part of the bcables download).

Steve, Thanks for the response, I am very gratefulI and will try that solution and see where it gets me. I am getting quite frustrated with the convertible top and INPA problems.@@StevesDIYs

@@StevesDIYs Steve, Its been a year since I asked for your advice on the convertible top and I am still in the same position.I have a 2007 BMW 650i I have ran INPA and Foxwell and have no fault codes. I have checked all hall sensors, altered angle of rotation sensors, checked relays (as per your video), ran the hydraulic pump on on electrical bypass, checked the trunk bottom switch, removed rear window and serviced all components including new Hall sensor etc. all without getting convertible top to work. I have the red light flashing and my trunk opening button will not work either. Any ideas? Thanks, Don

Hello, yes, if either (or both) cables are pulled, it puts the top in service mode and disables the movement of the soft top and windows except for just one allowable motion…If there are no errors, the only movement the top will do is to re-latch the latch that was pulled open by the cable. If your soft top is covering the car, press the button in the center console that would be held to complete the covering of the car motion. If the top is currently stored in the compartment, press the button that normally retracts the soft top and puts it into the compartment. If there are no errors, you should hear the latch re-latch and the car should then make the soft top completed “Gong” sound and then the windows and soft top will function again. Just a note, if the soft top is currently covering the car and someone raised the tray that the soft top goes into when retracted that is above the trunk area and did not lower it back down (like when cleaning the trunk or something) the top will not move as it knows the compartment area is blocked. Hope this helps a bit and all the best ! Steve

@@StevesDIYs the top is stuck up. If we take the carpet back off and find the cord and perhaps the black tab and put it back, will this fix it? Or, do we need to figure out how to manually lower the rear window and the convertible top to fix this issue? The light is green if you push to lower top and all windows but the rear begin to lower down to let the top down but nothing else happens. All windows but the rear window are working. Water is still getting into my trunk when it rains into the liner that holds the convertible top. I don't have a garage. I keep stuff in my trunk to try to keep carpet dry. One of the seals on the right wing is coming off but can't get the top partially down to have wings up to fix it without doing this manually. I want to try to fix the pulled cord and put it back. I am hoping this fixes the issue. A mobile mechanic thought the window might have gone bad but it all worked before that cord on the left drivers side in trunk was apparently pulled. I am so grateful for your response and for your channel. This means so much to me!

@plott9653280 hey again, there’s actually another video out on the channel for how to push the latch back if the cable was pulled and it won’t automatically latch it back by pressing the buttons…here’s the link to it that should help: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/abelltionsWoe6s.htmlsi=bELMrQxsPPvCCidX . Once you push the latch back, if there are no faults on the soft top, it should go back to working again. If it still doesn’t want to put the rear window down automatically, it could be that the water finally got into the bottom of the rear window module and corroded the sensor that detects if the window is all the way down. There is also a video for removing the rear window module I did where the car I was working on had gotten water into the rear window and ruined the rear window sensor. It’s under the e64 / 650i playlist on the channel as well. Hope this helps and let me know how it goes and if you get it fixed 👍.

Do you happen to still repair 2008 BMW 650i convertibles? I bet the hall sensor did get corroded but I can't figure out how the cable goes back in either once pulled in the trunk. It looks latched but I could be wrong. I am not getting any warning about my top not being latched. I live in St. Johns County, FL. I would def. be willing to bring her to you if you still do these repairs. I am unsure where you are located if you still repair these vehicles. I love my car so much and I am so sad that I can't lower my top. I need to do something to stop the water coming in. A rear seal on the wing on the passenger side is kicked out. I am thinking maybe this is how the water gets into the top liner in the trunk but it doesn't drain away, it goes into my trunk :(

@plott9653280 hey again, I’m actually up in Tennessee so it would be quite a ways to go have it worked on…the visiting cars to the home shop have been local ones or very close by. Usually what folks do is to send their local shop a link to the video (for example…how to remove the rear window module in your case) so they can get an idea of the work to be done as well as how to fix the issue. This way they give better quotes and have a better feel for how long the job will take.

Hello, thanks so much for the compliment...I really appreciate it 👍. I haven’t made a video of removing the valve covers that shows the sensor, but I did take a picture of where it is on the motor for you. Here’s a link to the picture that’s on my Steves DIYs Facebook page that shows it as well as a motor schematic of it (item #5). facebook.com/109400450606405/posts/402548124624968/?d=n . There are two of them on the motor (one for each cylinder bank) and they are very easy to break the connector when the valve cover is removed if yours has had any engine work and the valve covers were removed sometime in the past. In the picture, you can see a thin metal bracket I made for mine to hold the connector to the sensor as mine was broken and would not stay connected. If you wiggle the wire connector it could be that it is not making contact as was the case with mine, but it might also be that the sensor is bad as well. The one for the other cylinder bank is in the same location, but is on the opposite valve cover. Hope this helps and all the best ! Steve

Thanks Mr.Steve any idea where's the oil low pressure sensor? Thanks again

@@WORLD-gq1je , hey again. I’ve not had to change the oil pressure sensor, but I believe I saw it near the alternator when I was working below the car 👍. A good reference for parts and some basic schematics is a web site called RealOEM.com. They have quite a few schematics and the OEM part numbers for many of the car’s components. Hope this helps and all the best ! Steve

Michael Knox , hello...yep seems issues with the back window not going down occur often as well. A friend brought his same car by for me to look at and for his it was the back window hall sensor was corroded and would not give a signal to lower the rear window. Other issues can be with one of the segment sensors for the wings or back cover out of position or not sending a signal so the window and top won’t move because the program has to have all of the conditions right (and be able to read all of the sensors). These are its safety features to avoid damaging the mechanism. There are several videos on my channel that cover these issues (bad rear window hall sensor and also diagnosing the sensors), but for the sensor diagnosis you would need the INPA software. It’s free off the web now though...you just have to buy the interface cable. Have a look at the other videos (you may have to subscribe to the channel to find them, but not sure)...they are under the playlist for the 650i DIY’s. Hope they help and you can get it going again, Steve

Hello, the convertible top control module is located behind the left side trim panel that is beside the rear seat. It is above the speaker towards the top of the panel (like just below the small side window. I believe it is referred to as the CVM module by BMW. Hope this helps and all the best ! Steve

Michael Thibodeaux , hey again...I did a little looking around on the M5board (they have a forum for e64 M6’s as well that share the same convertible top as the e64 650i like ours...I have an e63 M6 as well). I found another owner’s post that sounds like they had a similar issue to yours and it looks like water getting into the electrical was the issue. You mentioned that your MCM was also corroded so it does sound water has gotten in the trunk sometime in the past. Here’s a link to the Thread on the forum that you can read through...based on what they ended up replacing, I would say it was their compartment latch hall sensor that was shorting and drawing the power down in the CVM and making things not function because the module was getting low control power due to the short and not letting the other sensors power either. The one hall sensor was probably dragging the whole system down. Although theirs was the latch hall sensor, it could be any of the hall sensors connected to the CVM that could do this though (the one in the rear window module, the one on the compartment lid latch, even the ones above the windshield for that matter). I’d have a close look at all it f the hall sensors to see if any look corroded or have puffed up first. If the problem isn’t easy to find, I always suggest getting the INPA software and the OBDii cable (like I show on the PC in several of the videos) vs a hand scanner as you can see the status of the hall sensors and segment sensors to see if they change state when you manually move the top. Here’s the link to the other conversation if you want to have a look: www.m5board.com/threads/e64-water-in-boot-electrical-issues.603064/. Hope this helps 👍, Steve

@@StevesDIYs Hey Steve thank you for all your wonderful information I'm going to try to fix this I am going to work on in some more and I will let you know what happened thanks again and you are absolutely great.

Michael Thibodeaux , thanks man 👍. No problem, hope you get it figured out and can enjoy the car again vs having to deal with the issues. Yep, let me know what you find out...I always like to hear what the final fix was. All the best ! Steve

BMW fan3000 , hello. When you press the button to lower (or raise) the window can you hear the motor in the door turning? Also, does it still lower the glass slightly when you open the door to clear the seals? If you can hear the motor running when you hit the button, it may have stripped the drive mechanism in the window regulator (I had the same thing happen on my 740il one winter when I tried to lower it but it was frozen). But, if it will still lower the window slightly when you open the door (or raise it back up slightly when you close it, maybe it just needs to be recalibrated to make the anti-trap function work again...I’ve never encountered an issue with the anti-trap function so I’m not real sure. Sorry I couldn’t be of much help, Steve

Hello, it sounds like there is still a fault in the convertible top that’s preventing it from finishing the cycle so it won’t complete and allow the windows to go back up. BMW didn’t do a good job of planning out the fault scenario for these, so once the latches pulled by the knobs in the trunk to put it back over the car in an emergency, if it has a fault still present it disables the side windows ☹️. Were your windows working before you pulled the latches in the trunk compartment? If so, it will take a little work, but the carpet can be removed in the trunk and you can access the back of the latching cylinders and push them (both the driver and passenger side) back forward to close the compartment latches and it should then allow you to put the windows up again. Here’s a link to another video on the channel that shows how to latch the compartment cover back. The car in the video (Black with cream interior) was in the same situation where the top wasn’t working and he pulled the trunk latches and it disabled the side windows. His issue turned out to be a corroded hall effect sensor on the rear window faulting the top, but that’s not the only fault that will prevent the top from working. There are several other videos on the channel that go through common issues I had with mine that may help to sort out your’s issue once you get the windows back working and can research the fault a bit more. Here’s the link: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/abelltionsWoe6s.html . Hope this helps and you can get it going again 👍. All the best ! Steve

Basketball junky Game , hello. Yes, you can manually open the top the rest of the way and put it into the compartment if it will only go part way for sure, but please read all of the next steps first. What you would need to do it let the car open the top as far as it will go (preferably with the car running to save the battery from the extra load), then turn the car off and remove the key. Then place the key back in the ignition and press the start button without your foot on the brake. This will release any pump pressure on the hydraulics....then remove the key. After that you can open the trunk with your physical key that is inside the key fob (the trunk unlock will no longer work since the top is partially open) and then pull the black tabs in the trunk to release the rear lid cover. Assuming your soft top wings are still raised up, you would then do like the video and manually raise the rear deck lid with a helper, and then grab the soft top up by where it connects to the front window glass and collapse the top into the compartment. Be sure to hold up on the wing tips as you lower the collapsed top into the compartment...as the upper top collapses into the compartment, it will close onto these wings right at the last. To be able to drive it though (and have the car think it has completed the opening cycle), you will need to re-latch the rear deck lid which involves removing the carpet in the trunk and pushing the deck lift cylinders forward to make the latches close and secure the deck lid. There is another video on how to do this on the channel as well and you can see how the deck lid latch works by pulling the deck lid cylinder forward when you first open the deck lid (without the top in the compartment yet). Just be sure to go back and pull the tabs in the trunk again if you move the deck lid lift cylinder when seeing how the latch works to be sure it is in the correct position before lowering the soft top into the compartment and closing the deck lid. Hope this helps...just let me know if you have any questions, Steve

Thank you so much I appreciate you love your videos

👍, yep…these have so many sensors on them it’s no wonder that they have issues from time to time. I guess they are necessary to keep things from crashing together, but it makes for some complicated diagnosing sometimes for sure.

Hello, yes, for sure you can also open it manually for maintenance, but unless you can get the back compartment cover latched back, I would not drive it since there’s a risk that the compartment lid would get blown open from the wind. There is also a video on the channel under the 650i playlist that shows how to latch the compartment lid back manually, but it involves removing the trunk side carpet pieces to access the latching cylinders.

the groupies , yep...BMW didn’t think the whole emergency top closing process through very well for sure. Depending on the malfunction though, once you manually close the top, if you press the close top button, it will sometimes go ahead and complete the cycle (latch the back lid) and then the windows will go up. For things like a failed hydraulic pump or a failed sensor, you have to get the latches to lock back on the back lid manually. This is where BMW missed it for sure as you have to either remove the carpet in the trunk and push the latches closed or figure out a way to pull the latches closed. I did a video as well on how to remove the trunk carpet and push the latches in my channel, but you are right that it’s not something your gonna be able to do easily on the side of the road in a rain storm.

Un Chang , hello, there’s actually a small access hole where you can put the crank tool that’s in the trunk into. It is in between the back seats in the center of the car just below the glass and is under the rectangular cover that is in between the two small air vents. This rectangular plastic pops off and then you can put the crank tool into the hole and manually turn the motor to raise the glass up. If you look at the 8:49 minute mark of the “bmw e64 Rear Window Module Removal and Diagnosis - bad motor and hall sensor” video it shows the small hole with the rectangular plastic cover removed. No need to do remove anything but the small cover that is between the two vents to access it. If you are like me and don’t have the crank tool that came with the car, you can use a metric Allen wrench and a pair of pliers, but go easy when cranking to be sure you turn it the right direction until you determine which way to turn... If the top is not faulted (top up/down buttons not blinking), you might try just swapping the position of the two relays that are in the trunk...these are actually the window lift relays (you may have tried this though). If the top is currently faulted, the window won’t move though and will have to be raised manually with the crank tool. Hope this helps 👍 and I hope the storm passes you by with no damage.

@@StevesDIYs WOW, thanks dude you Rock! we never would have figured that out...Mike out of LA California, suggested a scan tool or applying pos & neg direct too motor to bypass everything, but ofcourse all that required a total dismantle as your video described...FYI and to all your subscribers LEAR JET Aero technology Industries has played a huge part in the wiring and manufacturer of this $89,000 09 BMW 650i and our is fully loaded..in saying that quietly, the unit is beyond SENSITIVE, totally insane, and extremely expensive at any labor cost for any repairs... basically our separation from owners manual and hands on know how to lower or raise that window had us in panic..at 2am last nite another utube video demonstrated this option and Amazingly its only a button on drivers door you engage and when lit power any rear window switch...that's it... Easily, any tech could have taken us for a service fee ride of several hundred bucks just for our total ignorance. Your option surly must make a separate video production, that and that alone, and please include what to do at drivets door switches...if you ever remove your driver's or passenger seat.. directly under it you will see Lear Jet Aero trademark lable... Robert Bosch and MUCH more has further there finger print on this Amazing Unit...Why they don't hold there value is beyond me...my best guess is the Mitchell data labor rate that's extremely expensive as well the parts..none the less anyone whom owns one truly enjoy the attention when it's all functional..I once meet a owner of a Lear Jet in 2000 who advised his Lear was a 1976 make and WOW, it was scary how brand new it looked...before that in 1994, I had the unique pleasure of a private charter of one directly Ft.Lauderdale FL to Nassau Bahamas..the flight took 15min in air..and DVD surround sound was just hitting cars..suggesting how far in advance aero space technology is...Bill whom owned that Lear told me personally how often it stayed grounded and all the service repairs and diagnostics it required from a travelling crew In a Mobil van that had no company logo on it ...extremely secret as it housed extreme softwear..thanks for your fast reply, and the hurricane at this second is heading just above Palm Beach FL..sorry for legth of response, but it's all in hopes to save many out there cash from all the fraud surly can come just by being totally unbeknownst the simple..your videos help and are amazing! AGAIN, info what we truly need came from a video totally unexpected to contain troubleshooting., suggesting one must be skilled in marketing to properly title there video to route directions from Google search engine to get hits they truly seek..just the language E64 offset things. Please let us know your takes on decaying this unit, were in a non smog state and desire such piping, but struggle with not wanting the code surly that would pop up on dash and or trigger other codes

Un Chang , great ! Glad you got it figured out in time and it was just something simple for sure. Yes, the computers and controls on these is very complicated and interlinked so troubleshooting is hard to do without the softwares like INPA and ISTA. Would probably be a good idea for me to make a back window trouble shooting video and show how to do the door buttons and them manually raising it...might help someone indeed. I fixed one Subscribers convertible top that happened to live close enough he could bring it by (the video of removing the rear window module was actually his car). The problem was the window hall sensor, but the shops he had taken it to prior to bringing it by had ruined the window motor and the front latching motor gears in the process of looking at it. Not sure what they charged him for unsuccessfully trying to fix it, but definitely cost him several hundred as I had to replace both motors. Anyway....thanks for the positive feedback and glad you got it sorted out 👍

@@StevesDIYs Hi Steve, we made it Thur the storm it changed directions and missed ft.lauderdale ALL but reports coming out the Bahamas will get more and MORE sad as 2,500 missing.. The right passenger door 3as damaged,airbag deployed, we totally replaced the door and struggled with airbag light ...and changed airbag modgle in center console and had it programed ..ISSUE: our original door panel that match our interior it's ripped from the explosion of the air bag...the exposure is at center where stiching is shown..the door we used was from I believe 05-06, as it was extremely next door as to out if state order..the harness was issue, and all airbag codes cleared ..we wish to deal with this original door panel..Question: can we simply swap the air bag and reattach (glued) flapping cloth closures? We're thinking this is the method as to buying the entire matching panel with factory installed airbag? NO where on line we have found any editorial videos of THIS specific issue..what's special about THIS 05-06 passenger door we discovered ...at nite if you open door it would project a BMW log on the ground..a huge logo as sized of a 5 gal bucket pail top..amazing!! also what grade oil you recommend for 09 650i? , we see a Castro synthetic logo but it states no grade..thanks again for your kind attention to our msg..we would consider shipping this panel out to any source you advise if it's not truly DIY..our intentions is to NEVER used a color dye cheap way out..thanks again.

Un Chang , hey again, glad all is well. For the door interior, I’m not really sure what damage the air bag does when it activates, but if the panel was not damaged, it could be glued back in place I would imagine. It is difficult to have the color dyed to match for sure for a new panel...I’ve never tried to have someone color match an interior part. For the oil question, I had used Castrol 10-30 for several years in my ‘08 650i when the mileage was less than 100k miles, but changed to Valvoline 10w-40 at 100k miles...I now have about 135k miles on it with no issues. You might look up the fluid specs to see on the web to see what BMW recommends, but after 100k Miles I usually just switch to 10-40 since the engine is worn some by then.

And do you have a email or a contact number?

MARK LONG SELF MADE , hello, yep it sure sounds like an issue with the KBM (Basic Body Module), as these all relate to it. Here’s a link to the KBM that describes the connections that it controls: www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e63-m6-cou/repair-manuals/61-general-vehicle-electrical-system/26DMS7w This web site is really handy for seeing how all of the systems work on the car (but it is really hard to navigate through to find info sometimes as the info for one car only shows up in the section of a similar car of the same group (the KBM info shows up under the E63 M6 Coupe since it is the same as the other E6x models). If it was me, If it’s acting erratic on the functions of the module, I’d pull it and check to be sure all of the connections are clean and not corroded or something from moisture, and also check the wires that connect to the module that are listed as grounds to be sure the grounds are good. If that doesn’t help, it could be the KBM is going bad, but it can also be something like one of the hall sensors in the doors for the windows or even a sensor for the convertible top that connects through the KBM is shorted and not allowing the KBM to get a proper signal for the other sensors while it’s shorted. If it then dries out or you hit a bump or something and un-shorts other things might start working again. Could be other things too though like the K CAN bus that communicates to the modules loosing signal, but since the issues you mention seems to all relate to the KBM it would for sure be a good place to start. Not 100% sure, but I think a replacement KBM might have to be coded to get it to talk to the car if it did turnout to be the problem. Hope this all helps, Steve

MARK LONG SELF MADE , hey again, my email is stevesdiys@gmail.com

Steve’s DIYs thank you so much for your help I will relay the message to my mechanic . Again thanks for your time.

Steve’s DIYs Hi Steve I just wanted to ask you some other questions I had about my 2004 BMW 645 I replace the body module and in order to do that you know I had to pull down the fuse panel I replaced it I had it programmed and when I went to put the fuse panel back up for some reason the car stopped running now and there is no fuel getting to the injectors I checked everything I checked The fuel pump relays and also I check the fuse for the fuel I thought once I was able to get fuel to the fuel world then it will start today I have my mechanic bypassed the fuel pump to make it manually pump fuel and the vehicle still would not start so I’m a little at a loss I don’t know maybe you came across something or may have some knowledge of what should I do next thanks and Advance for any information you may have.

Skhosana Mathiyane , hello, if it happened suddenly and the led indicators are still working on the buttons that raise and lower the other windows (plus you said the other windows are still working), I would first try wiggling the wings in the back to see if the sensor is out of position and also thump on the compartment lid on the rubber part that is shaped like the wings (the rubber that the wings sit down on). It could be that these segment sensors did not make it to the correct segment and are faulting the top. You can see some other videos on my channel for a bad hall sensor on the back window that can cause this too and also how to check the sensors on another video with INPA. I would start with the wing sensors to see if that’s the problem first before taking the back window module out as removing the back window module is a bit complicated. Hope you get it working !

@@StevesDIYs ,,,,thank you,,,,,,i will check it when i am off weekend in two weeks to come,as i am a truck driver,,,,,,,I saw one of the videos when you were removing regulater of rear trunk window shuuuuuuuu it's bit complicated ,nevertheless thank you

@@StevesDIYs ,,,,,,good evening, i went home this weekend i did what u told me to do, unfortunately it didn't work, however i watched one of your videos where by you removing the rear window regulator Un Chang asked you how to get rear window up as the hurricane is coming, i managed to get that rear window down manually on 849 minutes,after that i opened the top manually, then i pressed open and closed button,all of a sudden the top close and open self and all windows are working,,i don't know what to say,,,,,thank you,thank you, thank you Mr Steve, you saved me couple of thousands cos i know BMW was going to charge me more or less 10 000 rand or more = $ 800 ,,,,,,,is now summer in South Africa i am so happy,,,,,,,,,,thank you my brother,,,,,enjoy life.....God bless you.

Skhosana Mathiyane , that’s great !!! I’m glad you got it working again without having to take it all apart to find the issue....it sounds like a sensor was not making if it began working again after manually moving the top. One of the best tools to have is the INPA software as it will let you see what the sensors and movement is doing if it starts acting up again. Without the software I would have never figured it all out. If your like me and plan to keep the car for a few years (my wife absolutely loves the car), I would highly recommend down loading the software from the web and purchasing the OBD 2 cable...since I don’t really trust “free” downloads, I also bought a cheap laptop (the blue one in my videos) that is only for the car software and I don’t hook it up to the web. Only have a couple hundred in the laptop and cable, but it has saved me thousands for sure. Best wishes, Steve

@@StevesDIYs ,,,,,good afternoon, i guess is early morning in USA,time is now 12h40 pm in South Africa,,,,,,,,,nevertheless i love this car,the name of this car is,all eyes on me,lol lol lol,,,,,,,,,,,,so Steve i will love to have that app,can you please tell me or guide me how to download it,i will really appreciate it my brother, take care.

Hello, the software I use in the videos to diagnose the issues is called INPA. It is available on the internet as a download, but the OBDii communications cable has to be purchased. It is the Silver cable (not the blue one) for the 6 Series BMWs

Hey man ! It’s Stevesdiys@gmail.com

Frank Incandella , hello, is it making a clicking noise as you turn the hex key? (I’m assuming you are referring to the front latches that lock the top to the upper frame above the front window). If it is clicking like the gears are jumping in the motor that normally drives the latches to lock them, then you’ll have to take the plastic cover off and you’ll have to rotate the flexible drive shafts for each lock till each closes and locks till you can get the motor gears repaired. If it’s not clicking and feels smooth when using the hex key, it may actually be moving the latches, but it does take many many turns to get the latches to move and then finally lock. The first turns of the motor are moving the slides that tighten the little end section of the top so it will get the latches into the latch pockets, then it starts moving the actual latches. There’s another video on my channel called “BMW e64 Convertible Top Not Locking Part 1 - checking mechanism and adjusting the stop position” where I have the latching mechanism cover off showing the drive motor and how the latches work that might be helpful. Around the 4:00 minute mark of the video the mechanism is shown and then at the 11:55 mark you can see the mechanism moving when looking up from the drivers seat. Hope this helps...if you weren’t referring to the latches as the top closes above the window, just let me know. Here’s a link to the other video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/pciJkrVovc7Hpnk.html

Steve’s DIYs yes, more like a grinding sound with the button... I'm using a star key that I have... The one that come with the car is gone... It's the small right in the middle or just do spins... Thank you for responding

Steve’s DIYs I'll try taking that cover off and see what's going on....like I said thank you so much

Frank Incandella , no problem 👍. If it’s grinding when you try with the button, I would says it’s the gears in the motor ( when using the star key tool, it’s actually just turning the gears, but if they are stripped the star key won’t move it either unfortunately). It seems to be a fairly common problem since original the gears are plastic (I think BMW used plastic to reduce the noise they make) so fortunately companies sell just the replacement gear sets. The good news is that it sounds like at least the motor is working as they are pretty expensive compared to the gears...and it sounds like your top is open and not latched onto the front window frame so getting the plastic cover off is so much easier. Here’s a link to another video where I took the drive motor apart to replace the gears on a friends car that had all kinds of convertible problems. His was doing the same thing that all it would do is grind the gears but wouldn’t latch or unlatch...maybe this will help as well on diagnosing 👍. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/Z9ajlKhkutCRcoE.html . If you do go for it, be sure you gap the sliders the same on the drive screws on both sides like in the other video link so one latch doesn’t travel too far and mess up the new gears. All the best, Steve

Steve’s DIYs thank you Steve you are the man and I really appreciate your knowledge