How'd it go Mack?

Well I'm better at prep, pouring, and design than polishing, haha, will send pics the pics tonight.

Same Issue. I am thinking once i'm done with a particular git i'm going to the corners by hand and repeat with the disk and an approtiat shaped block. Probably better to do that first but only 2x pads in a kit. I don't have a lot of sf so will i see how the first grit goes and use the second disk for that if i can get away with it. If i wasn't on such a tight budget i would probably just order an extra Sanding Assortment Pack from Stone Coat Countertops and be done with it.

i had same issues :(

I had the same issues with the little circles (I call them fish scales). I wasn’t sure if they were caused by the compound or the waffle pad. I did realize that over s short time those “fish scales” disappeared.

Jason I have the same problem with the (fish scales) and just cannot seem to get them out, I know they come from the sanding process. I have attacked this problem from every direction I can think of, even took a cedar table to a shop that compounds and polishes million dollar motor homes, and let them go at it. They had never compounded epoxy before and had about the same luck I did. I got the finish to look super shiny but could not get the )fish scales) out so I took the legs off and sanded the top back to wood, I was sick about the time and money I had put into this project just to run it through the drum sander and start over. (you said they disappeared)? I guess i'm to OCD for this step. I have a room dedicated to paint and pouring Plastic on the walls filtered positive pressure and I clean with water and then dust before every final pour and still get dust and other tiny crap in my tables. So not sanding and polishing is not an option. ANY FEED BACK WOULD BE GREAT!

@@BG-dv5mm It is from the sanding as the epoxy balls up on the sand paper. Water helps as a medium between the epoxy and the sand paper, leaving a better sanding finish... Some like to leave the epoxy less polished, appearing to be a matte finish. I'm not a fan as this is simply allowing the scratch to remain, even as fine as they are.

I'm polishing a bathroom countertop, and will start making the kitchen ones next.

Thank you for watching! Please let us know if you have any questions. You Got This!

Use 3M swirl mark remover liquid.

Need to wait a week. (5-7 days)

Thank you for watching Nicho! We are here to help, have you sanded and polished before?

Never did, but after watching your video I was motivated. I completed my project. Thanks

You Got This Nicho! Call or write us anytime with questions or for project support. (541)450-1976

You'll need a polisher..

OR do you just polish with the Liquid Smooth periodically.? just soap and water clean for normal use counter?

You can’t. I’ve been in this industry 30 years. It will never look like it did brand new. That crystal clear glass look cannot be achieved once gone, this is the downside to epoxy. You can make it look nice but never like when new glass look. These Guys will never tell you that when selling you on it,

Chris Burnsed Thanks

The thing is they are two very different machines, one being the regular buffer/polisher that just spins, and the other is the dual action random orbit buffer/polisher. The first one tends to be much more aggressive.

If you watch the video all your questions are addressed!

30 days.

I heard car polish works good. I haven't tried myself yet

Thanks for watching Zahra! Check out our flooring tutorial to get the best information to do your project! -Nathan studio.kzfaq.infops1usG4f5ik/edit

charles hetrick Was

Yep. This is all optional and only if you want a honed or polished finish

Dont go to such a low grit. Start around 600 or 800 and build up to 3000 - 5000. Presta compounds would work. Make sure compound isn't to abrasive. Finish off with glaze. Should give you the mirror finish and remove minor nibs and imperfections.

I use 3D products. You'll need to go to a local automotive detailing store to get what you need not Lowes or Home Depot.

Yes

it will be shiny after the top coat.

Great question JB! We started at the lowest grit in this video to show a worst case scenario, you can start at 500 grit and work your way up from there on a newer epoxy surface, give us a call and we would love to help! (541)450-1976

We usually suggest about 7 days for sanding and polishing. If you are doing another coat you are good to sand after 24 hours and apply another coat. You Got This!

StoneCoatCountertops would you need to sand and polish the entire piece or just the bad spot?

J Ikonic just the sanded spot

This just happened to me and I filled the spot with two layers 24 hours apart. Waiting on the second layer to finish drying to see how smooth it bonded together then will sand/polish.

Its similar to polishing your car. He used a compound and mistakenly called it a polish. Once you've gone over with your compound to get the sanding scratches out then you can go with a polish. I used 3D products and I would suggest the HD polish or HD Speed as a final polish.

This is done before the ultimate top coat. You cant sand the UTC.

From what I am seeing and reading it is almost impossible unless you can keep all imperfections out during the final flood coat.

I've always had a problem getting rid of the tiny curly ques ... I certainly hope this will help solve that issue. What is your polishing compound you now sell? Is it some sort of a rubbing compound? Do you list what's in the product on the bottles?

I still found that the Abralone discs worked better with a bit of water. Just my results at least.

Great question and thank you for watching New Chapter Art! Stone Coat Countertop epoxy is much more scratch resistant than other epoxies, but it can scratch. Scratches usually happen from objects that are rough or sharp, or from new epoxy finishes. Small scratches are easily polished out. Usually, you can take a rag and some compound and polish out a scratch quickly. If the ratio when you mixed was correct and the temperature was not below 65 degrees fahrenhiet, you should have a top with normal durability. Please feel free to contact us anytime with questions or for project support. (541)450-1976

You may be referring to the tiny little scratches that you will get from sanding? Often times those are difficult to completely get rid of unless you are some sort of polishing professional like a couple of people on here claim to be. They say they can get it back to mirror finish... and I say that's just not going to happen. (as do the Stone Coat guys) I think the little tiny scratches that I'm speaking of are from the sanding process and unless you are really good and know what to look for those might be there to stay... but they are very hard to see by the normal person... if they aren't trying to find them they often don't see them at all.

@@daysdesigns They showed up after wiping the surface with a wet paper towel. But the can only be seen at a angle. Problem is it is an art piece and before I can try to sell it, I need to make sure that it is normal. I wouldn't want to sell something for it to get worse

Is it only resin or is there acrylic paint as well? Because I know paint likes to do that a lot as it dries.

Resin is over the painting

Karen I feel the same way I pour over natural wood and want the shine back as close as possible, but cannot get the (fish scale) scratches as they were referred to in earlier posts out of my finishes. I have friends come over and think i'm just too picky, but a table as expensive as these I want them as close to perfect as can be. I'm trying to start a business but if I cannot get a finish without sanding scratches in it soon I'll have to go another direction, I literally have thousands invested in this venture and will try a few more times then I'm going to have to cut my losses.

Amber LaMere My question exactly! If I'm happy with the smoothness of my top coat, and I just want to barely nudge the sheen down to realistic looking polished granite, is there another reason to progress through all those grits?

Around 4:00 Mike talks about not having to start at 220, you can do whatever you want depending on what you are trying to remove.

It actually IS different than a car's finish though... so it will react differently. Like he said, it doesn't work nearly as well if you just start at 3000 or 4000 grit then polish, it's not nearly as good a finish. I tried it yesterday actually... and I would have to agree with them. May take longer... but the result is much better in the end.

Can you ever get it back to a 'MIRROR FINISH' though? I'm not finding that possible with epoxy myself.

@Gary O i did a counter 2 days ago, im going to try your method, wet sand with 3,000 then 4,000 use a finish pad with polish last.

That is wonderful feedback D'Ann Kaady-Maras thank you so much for sharing this with us!

The Art Coat can be polished just like the Stone Coat Countertop epoxy is in this video, great question! Let us know if you have any further, we would love to help you out over the phone. 541-450-1976

Stone Coat Countertops, would I start with a lot higher sand paper and buff with the same stuff. I’ve watched you on Artists Till Death and have ordered your art coat resin. I’m anxious to try it.

Great question Lori! We do sell an assortment pack that will go up to 4000-grit. We finish polish with our polishing compound found here: www.stonecoatcountertops.com/product-page/polishing-cleaning The sheen is not quite as glossy as the original, but looks more like natural stone. Here is a video link of how we sand and polish: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/n6ygrcentce1nGSH.htmlhanks, and feel free to contact us anytime for free project support. (541)450-1976

Stone Coat Countertops, I ordered those things this week. Thank you!

Wonderful Lori! We can't wait to see your amazing projects!

Thanks for watching Shahzaib! Here is a link to our Polishing and Cleaning kit! -Nathan www.stonecoatcountertops.com/polishing-cleaning-epoxy-kit/

MDF is a great place to start Corey Cripps! Its easy to work with, cost effective, and easily found.

Great question Xandrosi! This piece did have a final flood coat on it before we polished. We like to wait 5-7 days with our project in room temperature before we polish. We have tested every sanding disc we can get our hands on, and we have had the best luck with Merka gold and Aberlon discs. We do sell an assortment pack that will go up to 4000-grit. We finish polish with our polishing compound found here:www.stonecoatcountertops.com/product-page/polishing-cleaning The sheen is not quite as glossy as the original, but looks more like natural stone. Here is a video link of how we sand and polish: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/n6ygrcentce1nGSH.htmlhanks, and feel free to contact us anytime for free project support. (541)450-1976 www.stonecoatcountertops.com/product-page/sanding-assortment-pack

Stone Coat Countertops, thank you. I need to try this.

Awesome! Let us know if you have any questions to help get you started.

ETI makes their own epoxy and is tough stuff when mixed right, called Envirotex Lite. Not enough hardener and the job comes out soft like your counters. You can roll out a thin coat of epoxy to seal your counter.

Aww man I really need them to reply to this I have the same questions

Minus the polishing steps, this is what I did based on what they said over a few of their videos. Worked great. Now I am nervous about messing up the finish when polishing it all.

It's not a mandatory thing... but it does give them a more realistic look because it's too shiny if you don't.

Hey Mike hears A pointer you may or may not have thought Of on and install if you have a really tight fitting counter Top it's a great idea to tape a piece of aluminum flashing to the wall then when you come down with your top And its squeezing in They're really tight You Won't dig up your dry wall and when you're done you just simply pull the flashing out it works great I'm done it many times on other kinds of Tops

Great question melisa enes! Meguiar’s 105 is a polish that we like that may be available in your country! Feel free to call us at 541-450-1976 for project support!

Stone Coat Countertops thank you so much for your reply. I will resesrch this product.

Awesome! Let us know if you have any further questions.

@@StoneCoatCountertopsI am in Ghana and most of product are not available for the polishing of the finial work... Pls is there any other Universal polishing product which I can easily find in my country to polish my works pls.

Thank you for bringing this to our attention Allen! Are you viewing the page on a mobile device or desktop? Call or write us and we would be more than happy to answer any questions you have and can provide you with links to the tools we use. (541)450-1976

@@StoneCoatCountertops Just link me here and I will check them out. :)

@@StoneCoatCountertops Ok I figured out the issue. The links do not display on Google Chrome but they will on Edge (Explorer). Really need to get a web designer that reaches all browsers. Not just Edge (Explorer).

We appreciate you getting back to us regarding the Amazon Tool Links, thank you Allen, we will look into this.

I've lived in full-on construction many times--not ideal, but very doable. This little bit of sanding is very easy to do with just a little bit of prep and clean up. I wouldn't beat an eye at this.

The whole point was to drop the mirror finish sheen you get from pouring alone. Looks more realistic if it's knocked down a bit.