No one on any media I’ve consumed has explained this as well as you have just did! Thank you!

In case nobody said it yet Thank you for helping everybody including myself!

Just went from 340 spine to 250.... Been snorting the fairy dust. They're hitting real hard too.

Great stuff here! I've been shooting bows since the early to mid 80's and had to depend on the archery shops (to a fault). The ability to self tune today is truly amazing- and having guys like you to help people with that process is really cool!

I always enjoy these tongue in cheek 😋 yet highly informative Can of Worms videos. Not only an English teacher, but a history teacher. At least when it comes to Archery 🏹 and the Mystical Flight of the Arrow. Definitely one of my top 3 favorite Archery related channels out there. I know that I have pointed out a similar thing in some of your other videos. Troy does mention even in his arrow tuning videos that one has to start with a well tuned bow, if it's completely out of wack then start there. He just isn't a bow tech and isn't interested in doing videos on that. There are multiple videos including yours that show how to do that. I am sure that my 2006 PSE Fire Flite 33 LH is out of tune and I bet that I am as well. My bow looks similar to the middle one just more modernized. Since I have a kisser button I usually shoot without my nose on the string. I have shot that way since I got it. I have tried to put my nose on the string and the arrow Definitely has a shift in the point of impact. Thanks for sharing your thoughts and experiences. Hopefully in a year or two I will have a bow like your Elite Kure.

This is spot on and several high level target archers would agree. I have heard Tim Gillingham, Greg Poole, David Houser, Levi Morgan all say pick the most favorable projectile and then tune the bow to the arrow. Obviously when you get out to further distance you can mess with different point weights / spines to really fine tune your groups, but that is once the bow is optimized as much as possible. Not only that, but you can get a variety of spines to tune out of today’s bows given the adjustments you can make. The best quote I heard on this topic is you would not let air out of one of your tires if your car alignment is off and it is pulling to one side of the road....

Fantastic buddy ! As a guy that knows very little about this subject... this was sooooooo helpful ! 👍👊🏼

Spot on! Once you get the power stroke of the string behind the arrow you will be able to shoot several different spines with great results.

I had a really rough time getting my bow to shoot a bare shaft. I didn't realize how much my grip put my shot off.. I got a nice wide grip and I love it. My arrows was just all over. I thought it was my strings. We worked on the bow for a good while and now wow is it freaking shooting amazing. My adult broadheads are flying with my field points. I tried knock tuning for th ed first time and now I can't shoot the same target twice.. you know if I want any arrows to go hunting with down in 4D in Blair county pa.

Very well said... though I dont envy your inbox of anger 🤣🤣

Plunger, knock height, Tiller. What do we tune now? Center shot and cam lean? Tune the bow or tune the arrow. Both end up at the same result.

Thank You!!! From ThunderLakes archery!!! I've been telling customers the same thing for years but some fairy gets tons of followers that don't know any better!!!! Tons of headaches trying to show them they are wasting time and tons of $$$ on arrows that is very unnecessary then I show them a $50 set of prefletched can fly just as well!!!

Excellent video! Loved the opening humor. I gotta say, thanks for dropping the commercial look of the bow company shirts and such that give the appearance of pushing brands, etc, and getting back to your great delivery of "average jack" videos. Now, agreed with the content, but it seems everyone just dismisses aluminum arrow shafts today. They are still an excellent choice for arrow shafts. Straightness and weight tolerances, shaft to shaft, are still top of the list. Why does everyone seem to dismiss them? Granted they do not stand up to abuse like a carbon shaft does but that is the ONLY plus to a carbon shaft over an aluminum shaft. No nock tuning, no spine tuning, all that jazz. They are simply superior in all those regards. And they are not as brittle or fragile as most think if you choose your shaft wisely, staying with a 15 or above wall thickness. My 2317's are quite durable. And another huge plus is I dont need to order separate heavy inserts and such to get my arrow weight up to a suitable level that I prefer....the shaft weight is already there. And they rock my target back like they were hit with a mack truck in comparison to average carbons. Thanks for another good video. Do a video on the benefits of aluminum shafts!

Im currently going through the ranch fairy tuning process. I have taken my bow to the shop 3x confirming that the bow is "tuned" to spec. Archers advantage computer program tells me that 340 with 100grains up front is the right spine and 29" is the right length. I get 8 inch horizontal tears with that setup. Spined up to a 300 with 175 grains up front and got bullet holes. The only thing that worked for me. I appreciate your video though. I appreciate the information and different point of view.

I shot competitively in the 1980s and ALWAYS tuned my bow to the arrows. Of course I picked the straightest arrows and ones close to perfect spline as I could get not because I couldn't tune my bow to other arrows but because it made tuning easier. Ps whats the point of taking arrows that are full length shooting until you get one that flies straight then cutting it to length. Cutting it to length changes the spline so now it won't fly straight again. The only time I had someone behind me when tuning was shooting long bows. the arrow had to bend around the riser called archers paradox. The arrow would always wag side to side. Arrows would often penetrate better at 20 yards than they would at 10. Makes you appreciate the old archers. In the 1922 movie Robinhood that wasn't trick photography. Howard Hill was really splitting the arrow in the center of the target with another arrow.

This was needed! I have seen so many guys lately and even some you tube videos "snorting the fairy dust" They all seem to miss Troy saying the bow should be tuned. FOC/weight is great but if these guys would only realize when the bow and arrow are both perfectly tuned then the performance is so much greater. Just playin with spine and weight when you have a crazy tear is just masking issues with the bow and limiting your equipments potential.

Good video. I still use my PSE Nova from 1984. No deer lost.

That's a great lecture on the 3 types of bows. I like to shoot all 3 styles. Even with Trads and old compounds they keep the human element as a key function. I also shave with a straight razor and wear a mechanical watch. There is a certain glory to doing things the old fashion way. I really appreciate your videos and knowledge of archery and its mechanics.

Hey! I can move my nock point too!! 🤣 As a trad archer, I feel as if I must take anything a compound archer says with a grain of salt. I will continue to tune my arrows (wood, aluminum, or carbon) because of the bows I use. And constantly work on my form, also. Great content, great topic. Hopefully you've saved a lot of Ibuprofen and headaches, as long as this video didn't cause any aneurysms!

Well said! I picked my current hunting arrows by buying a few different shafts and played with the point weight. Was it perfect in the beginning? No I still needed to take it to the shop. But it did help in the decision making process. Now I haven't had a more accurate set-up. A well tuned bow AND arrow combo will yield the best accuracy possible.

Soo many memories of my early years of archery in the first half of your video. I actually have a original bear whitetale hunter ( my first compound). One topic I was considering on our podcast was the evolution of archery. And looks like I might be getting a ELITE next weekend 🙏🏼. Good can of worms look forward for the next one

That is one outstanding explanation. You have a wonderful and unique perspective with the combination of hunting and the technical side of archery. Keep em coming i learn every time I watch. God bless

Been saying this for awhile...well, since I learned how to tune a bow... TUNE THE BOW TO THE ARROW! That’s some of my biggest beef with The Ranch Fairy...I WILL say that he has generally achieved “good” because it was people learning about good arrow flight, but I wish he would show people how to tune bows, because it would certainly shorten the learning curve to achieving good arrow flight which is PARAMOUNT when it comes to penetration and achieving two holes in animals...you can have 40% FOC but if you’re not getting the nock flying right behind the point, penetration will suffer... so anyway, thanks for this! Hopefully people hear this and learn at least the basics of how to tune, so even if they can’t do it themselves, they’ll know enough to be active participants in conversation with their bow techs at their respective bow shops

I've been very impressed with my spine aligned Victory arrows. My first compound bow was a used Martin Cougar Magnum. Most everyone I knew shot Martin bows in the mid-1980's. It was the only brand our local archery shop carried in those days.

Tuning a bow and tuning the arrow go hand in hand. I believe in both. If a man wants to tune his arrow, let him tune his arrows. Sometimes just trimming a 1/4" off of an arrow shaft just may stiffen up that bareshaft arrow fly perfectly with a 200+ grain point on the front, saying that you have the correct spine for the application. Be prepared for whatever situation, deer are made up of soft tissue and hard bone. I dont see anything wrong with going the extra step to ensure a straight flying bone breaking pass throughs with a well tuned "bow" and "arrow" combination 😀.

Excellent video! I will say though, tuning arrows is part of the equation, but a properly tuned bow is absolutely paramount. Much like sighting in a rifle, once you're set up, there really isn't a round of ammo on the shelf, that will fail you... sure some are more accurate for a specific rifle, but we're talking fractions of an inch at 100 yards. Same goes for arrow tuning... no amount of arrow tuning will fix a badly tuned bow, or bad form.

Excellent explanation. With a lot of this tuning stuff I feel like a lot of it is to generate video content for some of the channels that push it heavily. Same goes for a lot of hunting topics that are beat to death. When your income depends on putting out content you get people digging way farther down the rabbit hole than the average person needs to dig plus they are usually selling their products to go with their "system".

First 5 seconds of this video had me laughing. My attention is yours.

Very good video with lots of good info. I fully agree with everything you said. I do think the RF method still has merit. See what shoots best and fine tune from there. The way he talks about it you won't have to tune your rest to get perfection. What you will find is what the bow wants to shoot best. This is where his method is brilliant. Take what shoots best and fine tune your rest until you're getting perfect bullet holes with a bare shaft and I don't see how you can fail.

Why not do both? Tune the bow to "spec". Find the arrow that shoots well and is "almost there" with a bare shaft, paper tune, then do fine adjustments on the bow and nock and insert tune the arrow and now you have a set-up that shoots field points and fixed blade broadheads well. That is what works for me.

Great serving of Archers ED!! Thx bro! Keep it up please, I'm learning way faster with AJA channel!!

For 400s I tune my bow to D#. When I feel strong I tune my bow to C Natural and shoot 300s. It helps to have perfect pitch.

80s and 90s the olden days! At 73 that was yesterday ! Super helpful video By the way

Very good job making it all make sense. I agree, when I first started in archery some 20 years ago it was mind numbing trying to get the right arrow or in my case as a target archer - arrows. That said it is still a bit of a challenge. I am shooting a 32" Gold Tip 30X Pro in my Mathews Conquest 2 at about 52 lbs, mainly for indoor at 20 yards and tuning the bow to get the best flight I can. While I might be able to use the same arrows for say a 900 round they would be way to heavy for a 1440 round where I need to hit center at 90 meters. In that case I would need a different arrow and I would want to come as close to matching it with the bow to avoid having to make any major adjustments outside of adjusting the rest. At least that is the plan. Nicely done...again.

Nice job on this video.

Love my Martin bows!

I’m just getting into bow hunting and trying to figure out my setup. This was really helpful.

So glad I sold all my compound stuff and shoot trad now. Yeah, tuning can be a challenge with a trad bow, but I don’t have to fiddle with cams, yolks, rests, centershot, etc. I don’t have to let some guy tune my bow for me (I can’t believe that’s a thing). I sold my bow, press, and tool. I couldn’t be happier

Just set up a new bow and dozen Easton axis ST 340 with 50gr insert and 145gr point arrows. The bow came with the cams set so far left I had a 6 inch right tear, couldn’t get even close to a bullet hole even when torquing the bow so hard I copped a string slap. After all the fiddling and shimming by the time I got to bare shaft tuning I completely sidestepped the knock tuning step. Guess what happened? Nothing, no difference at all with my grouping or Broadhead flight. I have only fletched three as I practice bare shaft out to 40 and all are hitting on point, my Broadheads are hitting the same spot and my fletched arrows are about 1/2 inch high at 20, but I’ll tune that out if I get around to it. Either I got the luckiest set of perfect arrows ever or knock/arrow tuning is overrated. Guess I’ll find out on the next set I buy 😂😂😂

Always superior explanations of difficult concepts. Very helpful. I agree with you!

You can adjust not travel, you can adjust the rest left right up and down you can tweak the timing, Axel Axel, there was tons of different adjustments to do on a compound 20 years ago, and there’s adjustments you can do on a recurve by packing out the rest as well

Wow great video. But what I am learning is I need to retire my old dalton yukon bow now lol.

great video, appreciate your passion

Oh man, listening to you shows me how much I don't know haha.

Good stuff. Thanks for sharing.

Another great video man! Thanks

As a trad shooter I learned to tune arrows because no shop around would look at a trad setup. Now to get my compound tuned and restrung, it has to go to the shop for god knows how long and how much money. Am I cheap, ignorant or both?

I can hear my 20 year old Jennings yell in protest from the basement. "get off my damn lawn". My old easton 2314 xx75s: "shhhhh it's ok no one loves you like I do, we will be together forever"

Am I wrong to think that a mixture of the two types of tuning should be used? I think spine charts are a good starting point; but one should then take their bow that is in spec; cams timed; centre shot set to 3/16”; and then go through the process of shooting different point weights on the end of those certain spined arrow shafts to see which spectrum of point weights bare shaft best out of your bow. Essentially you are finding the range of spines that your bow likes best. I find that this process doesn’t limit you to one arrow setup but shows you a range of different arrow combinations that your bow likes and the extreme ends of that range (overspined or underspined) that your bow doesn’t like. If you choose an arrow that is out of that range that your bow doesn’t bareshaft well; you may be able to tune that arrow to your bow.. but it could take a lot of time yoke tuning/shimming cams to achieve perfect arrow flight. If you start out by finding an arrow in the range that your bow bare shafts well while in spec; you will find you will spend a lot less time tweaking the bow to the arrow you choose.

For not shooting in the 80's you were pretty close although most shops would just cut some 2018s or 2117s and send you on your way and you never knew any better.

Excellent video!

Well said! I can shoot any spine through my well tuned bow. Within some reason that is. Tune the bow to the the arrow. I'll even creep tune my hunting bow. Makes up for my average shooting ability lol. You can change the nock height on a recurve I suppose. People getting confused over ranch fairy methods. He clearly states all the time his method is good for the average hunter that cant tune a bow and is a old school method

You had me nervous for a while. When you said that bareshaft, nock tuning and all that stuff was still important, I heaved a sigh of relief. I had a new string put on my bow last week, and had the tech put it back to "square." Had to move the rest a good bit off of centershot for my "mucking around" arrows. Took a picture of the positions for the sight and rest so that when my hunting shafts come in next week, I can set those up. $160/doz arrows are too pricey to throw into the bush. $80/doz are a little more bearable, especially when you have 4 dozen of them!

I am a trad archer, but I shoot a ILF so I have some tuning ability with the bow as well so I get an arrow recipe and then I change the center shot a bit or change field point weight all while bare shafting. But what I got from this video is: GET ALUMINUMS. Lol great vid I agree with most of what you say but I think it applies to mostly compound guys, not completely of course.

There’s a small amount of arrow tuning that still goes into it. Depending on the way you prefer to shoot. I personally hunt but also set my hunting bows up to group well out to 100+ yards, you won’t get that by JUST tuning the bow. Even close up hunting shots need a proper arrow spine in order to fling fixed heads efficiently(so you don’t need to sight the bow in to field points differently than your broadheads). But for your everyday shooter, you’re correct to an extent, but a lot hinges on the people in the shop knowing what they’re doing, which isn’t easy to find these days.

Good lesson teacher.

You can change draw weight in ILF style hunting recurve bows and long bows. Upto 10%. Btw, how is MD phantom going? Have you hunt any deer with it?

Great perspective and thanks for sharing!

You are 100% right another great video

Lol, he called the 80s and 90s the olden days. I feel old.

I'll counter by saying that tuning the arrow to the bow allows you to have multiple different arrows for the same bow, all you have to do is a quick sight swap if you have a dovetail sight. You can go from a 450 grain to 650 or higher within seconds and not have to go tune the bow again to make it work

O the can you opened! Good job Nate people just don’t understand how lucky the bows of today are.

Troy get you to shoot with the easy V. Bow sight LOL. Man you just preached a mouthful brother we have come so far from the stone age.Now you need to distinguish between high foc build and tuning arrows because it is comming troys buddy is gonna come out of the woods and say your still tuning arrows, not dealing with penetration.anyway Jack that was one of the best rundown on the old to new yet keep it up brother I'm listening, great video.

The point of "tuning arrows" today is to confirm you have an arrow spine and heavy broadhead/insert combination AFTER you already have the bow tuned for an industry standard 100 grain point and 15 grain insert.

Well done brother !! Good luck with all the haters.

I ALWAYS disagree with absolute statements lol. I think theyre was a lot of great information in this, that being said i disagree that you should absolutely ignore the arrow to bow relationship. By your logic I should just get the stiffest arrow I can, leave it full length, run a ton of weight in the front, and just tune my bow to make that work. I think that you need to have a good relationship between what arrow you want to run and how you want to run your bow. To only look at one side of this equation really sells your potential options short

There are some things you need to consider when talking about spine. Only a few pounds different can change everything. I built a bunch of gt hunter xts at 65lbs. Tried cranking it up to 72, max poundage. No bueno, i can only shoot 67 lbs before my arrows won't tune. 😒

This is so helpful. Thanks!

awesome info this channel is great thank u

This needed to be said. Before you try any tuning at all you should be a Solid consistent shooter. Most gear is better then most shooters. What's the next controversial subject? Cut on contacts Vs fixed blades would be a hoot. Spoiler alert, I'm a fixed blade guy. In fact couple places I shoot in Europe don't even allow flappers any more.

I just subscribed based on this one video!! I have had the same exact questions and responded the same! Also… I was just with the @budgetsportman and he said you were from PA so here some support! Great vid!

The only way I tuned bow was to move rest all the way left which caused other problems until I started tuning arrow now I can shoot bare shaft darts from 13/16 centre shot 🤔

Very good information.

Just think of the time and money the ranch fairy would save if he thought this way. Build your adult arrow however you like then tune the bow to shoot it. A FEILD POINT TEST KIT. COME ON MAN.

The jagger bush shirt 😂😂😂

Do you find it better to have spine side up, out, or down?

I see that old bow has an overdraw that was the thing back then.When I started bow hunting I bought a Browning I new nothing about bows the archery shop said you need an overdraw when you were at full draw the broad head was behind my hand (shorter arrows were thought to fly faster)!!!.Yes we have come a long way since the 80's and 90's

I’m too dumb to do all this. I just take it to the shop and say get it shooting.

I only shoot recurve forfunbut found that the alum. arrows of Easton 1618's or 7075 shoot fabulous on each recurve. Strang enough I cannot find more of them.😔

traditional bow to compound bow is like apples to oranges both are fruits but have much different tastes

I thought it was calmon knowladge that your tune your bow to the archer and the bow, and what ever release that is used.

Great video

I tune my arrows during build...as in if theres a .006" wobble they get fletched with the bow up, weight matched and indexed blades to fletchings...how ever they end up beyond that is how they shoot...

Nock height on the recurve is another point of adjustment.

So, why is it that arrow companies don't make stiffer spined smaller diameter aluminum arrows? It would seem to me that the thicker walls of a stiffer spined small diameter aluminum would be just as tough as carbon, cheaper to produce and more consistent....with just as much or more penetration capability.

Cool discussion. Ranch Fairy taught me the other way and my bullet holes appeared and arrows shoot like darts. So that works too. Is there a problem with going that way?

Ya Cuz arrows are made perfect. All the time.

Clarity.... it's a great thing.

Hang on, hang on.. I 100% agree with what your saying, but are U talking about taking a rest or can lean out of spec to shoot a certain arrow? I put my bow in spec, rest, cams timing ECT.. grab a full length shaft with a point weight I want to shoot, which I know will give a weak reaction and then shoot paper BS, cutting down arrow , until I get a bullet hole.. At this stage I have not touched the bow.. I will then shoot BS on the range at 30 and play with yokes if I have to... I won't touch the rest until I shoot broadheads at distance.. then it's only a micro adjust. Now I see this as tuning arrow to bow in spec, then micro adjusting bow to fine tune at distance.. Thoughts on this..

if i’m shouting a recurve setup as a compound you know D lupe , site and thumb trigger should i be should i be trying to toon my arrows?

I'm not quite clear on if you're referring specifically to compounds, or to all bows. Clarification would be appreciated.

I have a quick question and thought it would be better for all to see. Between this and the high foc and all that, it seems like I should just pick an arrow weight (foc) and then tune my bow to match that weight right? Also, are things different if my bow is 15 years old?

Completely off topic but what are you using to hand your bows on I'm trying a mobile treestand set up and I need a bow hook like you have

Well now your going against what the Ranch Fairy says to do!

I just got into this archery stuff. I think I'll just stop at the point where it's still fun and give the rest of this a miss.

Was wondering if a 26" 400, is the same stiffness as a 27 or 28" 340. All things being equal

We didn't have derailment in the 80 90 we did tune the bow

i got an old 2002-2004 Bowtech Pro 38...

I can mess with an arrow. I don’t have a press or work in a shop.....

The problem with your idea of tuning the bow and not the arrow is....my bow is not what is killing the animal, the arrow is. So that is the part of my weapon I will make sure is built to be bone proof and tuned to fly perfectly.