Good luck!

I've dug down 5-6 feet and found the valve! I am now ready to replace it. Thank you SO MUCH for this video! Is there anything you would do different 10 years later now?

jehzeel wences Thanks Jehzeel.

Thanks Michael, I appreciate the feedback.

Thanks for watching.

Thanks, I appreciate the feedback.

Your probably okay not digging up the valve unless you want the peace of mind that it's done right. The stand pipe should be some protection for the valve unless it threads onto the top of the valve. It's a problem if you get a small rock in the waste port and the valve won't shut off.

+lmstech Thanks.

Thanks Luis for watching.

Can you make a other video later how install the t plz love al your videos man

Thanks!

+Jamie Fair I bought my Mueller HD stop & waste valve at Peterson Plumbing supply here in Salt Lake City. Most bigger plumbing supply stores should carry them.

Thanks Bill for watching.

Here in SLC usually 3.5' - 5'.

No videos yet on installing a filter after the sprinkler valve. I do have one installing a filter/pressure reducer on a drip circuit: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jduFqtGAqZrTk6s.html

@@Iscaper Thanks, that link was educational. I think the hard part for me in trying to install the filter/regulator upstream before the zone branches, is just finding where the heck the pipe is. There is no room in the valve box for the new piece. Maybe just outside the valve box.

@@johnkenney7217 Yeah, you'll probably have to cut in the filter/regulator outside the valve box then install another box so you have access to the filter/regulator.

@@Iscaper I dug down there just outside the valve box where each of the 3 zones has a 90 going off to do their thing. The two zones I want to convert, the pipes are right next to each other. I think to give myself room to work and put in a union arrangement instead of glued connections, for each zone, I could cut out a section, put 2 45-deg elbows on each side (assuming there's enough room to get that elbow on there, which I think there is), then install the filter/regulator in that elevated space before it drops back down. Seems to me I need a union on each side of the filter/regulator, unless I want to, and have room to, tighten the filter/regulator by turning its whole body? Nice to have an expert advising; I wish you were around here so I could hire you to do it.

@@johnkenney7217 Unions are a good idea on each side of the filter in case you ever need to replace it.

The tee looked to be in good shape so I didn't replace it. There's also an argument to be made for replacing all the old parts. This time I went with if it's not broke don't fix it.

+bep2001 kumar The notches in the stand pipe keep dirt from getting to the valve, and the fabric keeps dirt out of the drain port. Adding rock underneath for clay soil isn't a bad idea.

lot of ways to do it. could just run copper up closer to grade, convert to pvc there with an isolation valve in a bucket

i worked for a company that went to pvc out of the tee on the service line. i found this out by letting the tee head key slipping out of my hand and bust ing it 6 feet deep

Some stop & waste valves corrode and get to the point where you can't turn them off or on, then replacement is necessary. That's why I like the Mueller Oriseal valve, I've never had a sticking problem due to corrosion. I've had valves in for over 20 years that are still working fine.

My installation was in sandy soil so a gravel sump wasn't necessary. In clay soil it's a good idea.

Mueller

iScaper1 Thanks Kerry. I appreciate it.

Yeah, water in the stand pipe means the valve isn't completely off.

Do a Google search for "sprinkler repair salt lake city".

S. Faber Enterprises 801-699-8051

Christina A I just gave S. Faber Enterprise a call this week. The gentlemen was very professional and responded quickly, however, he is located in Sandy UT. I think he prefers to work closer to that area. Regardless, he did not complain and did an awesome job at a fair price. I would highly recommend him if you live near him!

Materials and labor on this repair was around $400.

Just had to have mine redone. A little over $400 but I'm not sure if that's standard pricing or discounted because of a work connection. If you are in SLC, I used S. Faber Enterprises to replace mine.

3/4" CTS (copper tube size) brass dresser tee with a 3/4" FIPT outlet.

iScaper1 thanks so much!

+bep2001 kumar It was sandy soil so it only took a couple of hours. I did encounter tree roots though.

Sorry, no longer doing my landscaping business.

Bummer! I was wondering the same thing! But thank you so very much for the wealth of information you now share with all of us. I was able to install my own system this summer thanks to you and these helpful videos and I'm just a stay at home mom with no experience in sprinkler systems! Again, THANK YOU!!!

I paid under $100 for the valve in the video.

Labor depends on how deep a hole needs to be dug and how nasty the digging is .Then,what you run into when you get down there, Then,how neatly you want it buried. 273 sounds very fair, but who is doing the work is important. They have to (usually) turn the water off to the house. If they screw it up, no water til they got it. Or they just bury a leak.

It's a brass 3/4" CTS dresser tee with a 3/4" FIPT outlet.

@@Iscaper Thank you for your time and knowledge

When in the ON position the valve shouldn't leak, if it does you have a problem. In the OFF position the valve will drain everything upstream to the port on the right side of the valve.

A brass nipple doesn't have a "nut" on it that can be tightened with your typical wrench, that's why pipe wrenches and pliers with adjustable jaws are needed. They also let you quickly transition to different pipe sizes. Try a pair of Knipex pliers, you would love them.

Good point but THEY could have fittings that fit standard wrenches (and some plumbing does). I can work on my car, motorcycle and airplane with pliers and channel locks for "fast transition" but that would just be wrong. Ha ha. Thanks for posting this good video. Cheers..

Thanks!

+George Siatos Under a $100 if you're buying the 3/4" stop & waste.

thanks alot!!!!!keep good work!!!

+George Siatos Thanks George.

If I understand the law correctly and you're the homeowner, you don't need a license to do a project like this yourself. But if you hire someone else to do the project they would need to be licensed. I would advise checking the local codes where you live for what is required/allowed.

@@Iscaper thanks

I like very much how explain your jobs. I really appreciate

I wrap the valve at 17:45 in the video.

Plumber or a landscape contractor. Landscape contractor is probably cheaper.

Good tips, thanks for posting.

The stop & waste tees into the water supply running to the house. It is used to supply the sprinkler system. When shut off in the fall it drains water from the supply pipe to the sprinkler system to a port in the side of the valve. This helps prevent sprinkler systems from freeze damage.

I disagree buddy. I would rather use a female PVC on male metal rather than female metal on male PVC. The reason being that should the connection become stressed for any reason and a crack develop then it is much easier to repair. It is much easier to remove the remnants of female PVC a from the metal male without damaging the threads than it is to remove the remnants of male PVC from female metal. I see this issue quite often when repairing the connection between a customer's service line and a Ford style meter box.

Alright, fair enough. I suppose if your talking about stuff being buried in the ground; I can see where you're coming from. In a perfect world, you wouldn't have a transition like this underground at all. I very seldom do underground piping and when I do; it's usually brazed type L or K copper so this doesn't apply. A question if I may; would you agree the method I described is correct for an exposed, above ground application? Surely it would be better to have the softer material tightened into the harder material. That way, the plastic threads would tend expand into the metal rather than the metal tending to split the softer plastic. I'm still going to do it the way I was taught but, I'm interested to know your take on this.

I am the opposite. I deal with almost exclusively underground. For an above ground application I see no reason why it wouldn't be acceptable so long as it is not under a bending stress or in a place where it has the potential to be accidentally whacked by someone. To be fair if its under stress it will break in either configuration, it is simply easier in my opinion to get a female PVC fitting removed. In my area we are seeing more and more homeowners opting for PEX and some HDPE plumbing over PVC because of little issues such as this. A few of the older houses still use copper but it is almost unheard of here on a new construction because of the expense and the potential leeching of copper into drinking water.

But you are correct. A female PVC fitting does have a tendency to split if it is over tightened onto a brass or steel male fitting. I do like how this gentleman in the video uses the coupling and slip adapter to mitigate some of that cracking potential vs a straight FNPT x Slip adapter. I believe I will start using that method when making these transitions. Although on a side note, Stop and Waste valves are illegal here due to contamination concerns.

JayC I know of at least a few instances where a male metal adapter (usually copper) has been tightened into a female pvc fitting and cracked open and split a period of time after the installation, causing major damage. If it simply didn't work at all, it would leak during a pressure test and you'd do something else. The problem is it can work for a while and then fail. Once again, most of the plumbing I do is for heating/cooling systems and the rapid and frequent temperature changes probably makes this method a lot more likely to fail. Where are you from? I do not see stop and waste valves where I'm from and that is probably mostly because it very rarely freezes anywhere around here. In southern CA, we're still using copper for most new commercial constuction. I see pex on some of the smaller/cheaper stuff. Most new houses have it as well. Higher end houses still usually have copper. Over 4 story structures still require metallic drain lines (cast, copper, or galv) and I will always pick copper if I have to do a drain or vent in that situation. As far as copper leeching into drinking water; I'd still build my house with copper and have a good water filter :)