I doubt u can find a Bismarck-marked such little Solingen razor coffin new for sale w/o a Bismarck razor also inside, I don't think they were ever sold that way.

hello, what do you mean by you've been sharpening 'steeper' angle, is that an angle that is more obtuse (a # more above 0) or more acute (a # that is closer to zero)? Have you kept your razor flush at spine and edge to a verified as flat field reference of abrasive, or did you have tape upon its spine? How did you verify the geometric field of the hone? When you were already sharpening your razor, are you seeing different scratches from your work only at the front of the razor bevel, or your work's scratches started there and you overcame all that was there prior? You need to understand that the razor (if made by Europeans of today or Victorian era razor grinders) was designed for its bevel to be inward shaped not wholly flat, so I recommend a three-step procedure. If it is a quality razor it will perform best with a bevel concaved to the limits of what is practical, and those limits are nowhere near "a perfectly flat bevel". Three hones will suffice; a 1000 type waterstone shaped as a 2m wheel, a 5000 grit type hone of some sort shaped as 5-7m wheel, and the best hard/flat/fine finisher you can get with your budget (and unfortunately this last step is most costly part). You shape the 1000 the most, the 5000 less, the finisher you keep dead flat. You can't use tape and the work you do on your first step starts at the spine side of your bevel and works toward the edge.

@@thesuperiorshave @The Superior Shave @The Superior Shave @The Superior Shave I've been sharpening using a more obtuse angle so as to not scratch the spine because I didn't use tape to cover the spine, my stones are all level using a flattening stone. I've gotten pretty consistent at holding an angle so I remove all the material at the bevel without removing any more than that, I verify this by coloring in the bevel with a marker when I feel like my angle is off. I will try to hone my razor with the spine making the correct angle on my stones, but what do you recommend to protect the spine from damage when honing? Thanks a lot for your help, I haven't talked to anybody experienced in straight razors before

@@thesuperiorshave also I have a 5000/8000 grit stone for the final touches, would a 12k grit stone make more of a refined edge?

There isn't anything that can be had to 'protect the spine from damage when honing' when we are honing with a wheel-shaped form of these sizes (starting at just 6', not 6"). Pity that there is no longer a Pike Hard Arkansas wheel 8" at your local city cutler's, where the knife sharpener could hold freehand off of a tiny-by-comparison wheel to still get an even thinner and finer edge. Whether you have gotten good at removing steel from the apex is not the issue. The issue is the angle at which you are approaching your apex with your abrasive work (and by extension, and by inverse, the opposite angle of which your work approaches is what is left behind to form the bevel on the razor).

Yes, it will make a difference in my opinion, also that it is flat and the 5000 is not. Or you could just try shaping the 5000 and keeping flat the 8000, that will still be pretty damn solid.

There's lots of them. www.calculator.net/triangle-calculator.html And didn't want to cloud this basic issue for vid but due to the convex stone used by the grinders the actual cutting angle is ~0.2-deg less than the spine-to-edge geometry.