Struggling to Sew an 18th Century Corset (1780s stays) - mostly hand-sewn with LEATHER binding

  Рет қаралды 15,087

Dixie DIY

Dixie DIY

4 жыл бұрын

More corset-making adventures - or stay-making in this case. Follow along as I try to sew a pair of half-boned, front-lacing 1780s stays from a Redthreaded pattern (while having a rather hard time getting them to fit). Plus, a mini-lesson on types of silk, as well as tons and tons of hand sewing eyelets, leather binding, and linen lining. This may be my most painful make to date, and also the make I’m most glad to have finished!
**SUPPLIES**
Stays Pattern: www.etsy.com/listing/70512933...
Leather: www.etsy.com/listing/72887255...
Synthetic whalebone: corsetmaking.com
**REFERENCES**
My most recent corset video: • Comparing my FIRST cor...
My 18th Century stays: dixiediy.com/2015/04/venturin...
My Regency Stays: dixiediy.com/2014/08/regency-...
My 1780s chemise dress: dixiediy.com/2015/12/late-178...
**CREDITS**
Music from EpidemicSound.com
** CONNECT **
Find me on Instagram @dixiediy: / dixiediy
I blog at dixiediy.com
Comments are welcome, please be kind!

Пікірлер: 63
@jennieeveleighlamond
@jennieeveleighlamond 4 жыл бұрын
"Two and a half nap's worth of time", "Three days worth of naps" - oh the napping days when it's possible to actually get things done while baby sleeps! You are so much more productive than I ever was during nap time - I think I managed the dishes and was proud of myself. I certainly didn't make a beautiful pair of stays. Thank you for sharing this!
@DixieDIY
@DixieDIY 4 жыл бұрын
Thank you! I'm dreading the day when she goes from two naps to one per day. But the sewing productivity comes at the expense of dishes (and laundry and exercise and cooking real meals). It's probably not a sustainable lifestyle long term but the sewing makes me feel like I'm doing something worthwhile with the little extra time that I have.
@sarabowmer1329
@sarabowmer1329 3 жыл бұрын
@@DixieDIY Trus me, that day ALWAYS arrives sooner than you want it to.
@nicolawebb6025
@nicolawebb6025 Жыл бұрын
I love that you measure time in naps
@susanhillis5952
@susanhillis5952 3 жыл бұрын
I have no trouble believing that a thrifty woman would use the “lower quality” silk on an interior garment and saving the money for nicer exterior fabric
@DixieDIY
@DixieDIY 3 жыл бұрын
exactly, I think that's the idea I'd like to believe, too
@woodenkat8971
@woodenkat8971 4 жыл бұрын
Counting life by naps. Yep, you are definitely a mom! It looks so good!
@DixieDIY
@DixieDIY 4 жыл бұрын
Thanks!
@lyndabird9401
@lyndabird9401 3 жыл бұрын
I’m still giggling about time in “naps” It is soooo true.
@camilledvorak7151
@camilledvorak7151 3 жыл бұрын
I'm in awe of your ambition. I remember being exhausted all.the.time when my kids took naps.
@LinnMaren
@LinnMaren 3 жыл бұрын
Not only am I impressed with your garment, but so very impressed with your perseverance! My goodness, I am jealous of your brain! Also, as a “questioning/beginner” costumer I love that you are demonstrating a combination of traditional and modern techniques. Personally I can get a little bogged down by all the percieved historical requirements, and thus get demotivated, so this is really encouraging to see! Thank you for sharing, know that you have made the path to my next project a little easier!😊👏🏼
@WARPAINTandUnicorns
@WARPAINTandUnicorns 3 жыл бұрын
I'm thankful I saw this before buying their patterns. Everyone that does print should have registration marks for merging. it's not the hard and you don't need to get fancy just have them in the 1" bleed area along the edges of the pages and repeat the pattern for alignment for the easy. I need to make a stay front but victorian side hip-hugging and back corset for a costume I'm making. It has been hard to find the best of both worlds to merge with half boning.
@thespaceshuttlechallenger7882
@thespaceshuttlechallenger7882 3 жыл бұрын
I have had good success by soaking my leather bindings in water for an hour or so (until there are no longer air bubbles escaping from them) and then sewing them on while they were wet. This makes the leather more malleable and easier to sew in the short term, and it also helps 'train' the leather to hold the shape it was in when it dries. So, put your freshly-bound stays up on a mannequin, wrapped around a pillow, or anywhere else where they'll be in an approximate 'on a person' shape while they dry, and when you come back, the leather both holds its bend *and* helps hold the shape of the stays. I also stretched the strips in my hands a little before I sewed them on, so that they'd go on in that stretched state and be able to 'relax' back into the shape of the curve as they dries, which helped keep the binding from bunching. If your leather really doesn't want to behave, beating it into submission is also an option, if done carefully with a smooth but heavy object while the leather is still wet. I also worked both the front and the back of the binding at the same time (placing one stitch on one side, passing the needle completely through the stays, placing one stitch on the other side, rinse and repeat), so that the leather can adapt to the shape it will actually be in when the stays are complete (rather than being sewn onto one side, adapting to that shape, only to be bent over and sewn into a completely different shape when the other side is secured.) It was fiddly and tedious to do it that way, but at least it was done once it was done.
@mioutx
@mioutx 3 жыл бұрын
I saw on the Tudor Tailor where they hammered down a leather binding with a mallet to flatten it. .
@mindofmarissa9399
@mindofmarissa9399 3 жыл бұрын
The making process can be so frustrating sometimes. I relate to you on that. Being a mom and having limited time to do things is another relation point. They turned out great!
@iraisrose
@iraisrose 3 жыл бұрын
I’ve decided to make me some stays and purchased this pattern. I saw your video had a similar look and decided to watch. Turned out to be the same pattern. I actually ordered the printed pattern not the PDF and had it mailed (it was shipped the same day and tquick to arrive) also purchased their fabric kit. I’m hoping to get started on it soon and to not run into issues like you, but if so, I’m glad I saw your video with troubleshooting to help me resolve what I might encounter. Some other videos only show everything going smoothly. Wish me luck and I’m definitely doing a Muslin or linen mock up.
@DixieDIY
@DixieDIY 3 жыл бұрын
Glad the video was helpful. Good luck on your stays! I bet they'll turn out great!
@iraisrose
@iraisrose 3 жыл бұрын
@@DixieDIY thanks 🙏🏼
@Lara-hb1yn
@Lara-hb1yn 3 жыл бұрын
I had similar issues with this same pattern, I spent months on it and remaking the pattern
@tammymasson2343
@tammymasson2343 4 жыл бұрын
Very incredible results and super fun to watch! Ironically I got the most sewing accomplished when my children were small. True, much of it was done after they went to bed, at least the cutting out was. It's a joy to watch you!
@DixieDIY
@DixieDIY 4 жыл бұрын
Thank you! I think having a kid has made me appreciate the little free time I have so to have to use it well
@TimesmithDressHistory
@TimesmithDressHistory 4 жыл бұрын
Wow, you triumphed in coming up with solutions in the face of obstacles, right from that first mock-up! When you get your hands on a copy of 'Patterns of Fashion 5' one day, prepare to have your mind blown!
@DixieDIY
@DixieDIY 3 жыл бұрын
That's on my list of books-to-buy!
@SabinaTak
@SabinaTak 3 жыл бұрын
I had the exact same issue! It was my first set of stays so I didn't really know what I was doing in the mockup stage. I never made the stomacher, but it closes completely and I could easily close it more if I needed to. Now that I know more about stays I may remake them, I found them reasonably comfortable even given that they were far too large for me. I also went with my measurements, and I was *spot* on for an XL, my bust/waist/hips are exactly what they say it is.
@2020Dumpsterfire
@2020Dumpsterfire 3 жыл бұрын
if you make again a leather chamois would be thinner leather and ive seen other costumers use it, plus its cheaper than most other leathers
@LadyRebeccaFashions
@LadyRebeccaFashions 4 жыл бұрын
They might have been tedious, but they look really great!
@DixieDIY
@DixieDIY 4 жыл бұрын
Lol thank you!
@frilindsay
@frilindsay 3 жыл бұрын
I had the same same same problem. Way too big. The next time I make these I’m tweaking the measurements just like you did.
@JohnPorsbjerg
@JohnPorsbjerg 3 жыл бұрын
it looks gorgeous!!!
@lifestylecurves685
@lifestylecurves685 4 жыл бұрын
Awesome!
@sunndoyouknow25
@sunndoyouknow25 4 жыл бұрын
Looks awesome!!! ❤️
@DixieDIY
@DixieDIY 4 жыл бұрын
Thanks lady!
@debbiefalconer2756
@debbiefalconer2756 3 жыл бұрын
Beautiful garment!
@laurenragle5228
@laurenragle5228 3 жыл бұрын
They also have paper patterns on their website, I think I'm going to try that option instead of printing it myself. I was actually thinking about doing this particular pattern! I think yours turned out awesome!
@DixieDIY
@DixieDIY 3 жыл бұрын
Even though I struggle with PDF patterns sometimes, I'm usually to impatient to wait for patterns to come in the mail, lol! Especially if I want to sew the thing * right now*. Thanks and if you do try the pattern I hope it works well for you!
@alexismontez4230
@alexismontez4230 3 жыл бұрын
If you have a bernina, the machine eyelet kit is incredibly useful for doing "hand bound" eyelets
@DixieDIY
@DixieDIY 3 жыл бұрын
unfortunately I don't have a bernina but this eyelet kit thing sounds magical!
@alexismontez4230
@alexismontez4230 3 жыл бұрын
@@DixieDIY some other brands do have something similar, but I've only researched pfaff (my machine brand).
@lisahodges8299
@lisahodges8299 3 жыл бұрын
Please wear a thimble when sewing for your own safety. Gorgeous stays, they are a lovely fit, well worth the mock ups. Birdy
@maryroyal5138
@maryroyal5138 4 жыл бұрын
You did a great job and honestly at 10 places no one will see the mistakes
@DixieDIY
@DixieDIY 4 жыл бұрын
Thanks! Since few people will ever see me in just the stays ( they'll be under other clothes), I guess the mistakes don't really matter 😆
@jomercer21113
@jomercer21113 6 ай бұрын
I refuse to buy e-patterns that don't include the large format printing option, where you can take it to Staples, UPS Store or other copy shop and it runs on 36" wide paper--no taping! Having no registration marks at all is inexcusable, considering the prices they want for these patterns. Ladies of modest means would definitely have had to resort to lower quality fabrics; therefore, a slubbier fabric is historically accurate! Dremel FTW (with proper PPE). A good way to finfish the ends of steel bones is to use a couple of layers of heat shrink insulation that electricians use. I've never found chalk to be a useful marking method. Very nice outcome!
@1775LostOne
@1775LostOne 3 жыл бұрын
I'm a leather worker and leather doesn't do well with curves as you've seen. I make a few cuts on curves to form the leather on curves to prevent bunching
@sophiebird7459
@sophiebird7459 2 жыл бұрын
For anyone considering using this pattern, I am currently making a pair and it seams the issues she had have been solved! (although I admit I don't totally understand the issue she had aligning the pattern, is there an issue with just lining up the edges, boning channels or whatever?)
@DixieDIY
@DixieDIY 2 жыл бұрын
That’s great! The issue with aligning the pages was just me - I have a crummy printer that won’t print the full-size pages
@NoviceStitcher
@NoviceStitcher 4 жыл бұрын
do you like the way the shoulder straps work?
@DixieDIY
@DixieDIY 4 жыл бұрын
Yes, compared to my regency stays (which use the same style of straps as this 1780s pattern originally includes) these stay on my shoulders much better, are easier to adjust and are narrower. I have really sloped shoulders but these don't seem to slide down at all.
@TealCheetah
@TealCheetah 4 жыл бұрын
Im curious to see if the modpodge works. Its just watered down pva glue.
@DixieDIY
@DixieDIY 4 жыл бұрын
I've used that technique before for other corsets (I had a bunch of extra long straight steels leftover from another project) and it's worked well for me if I dip the ends twice and let them fully dry in between dips.
@Exactpie1
@Exactpie1 3 жыл бұрын
It's actually not just pva glue. Modge Podge is also a sealant, which glue is not.
@yasminhexe
@yasminhexe 3 жыл бұрын
I have the opposite problem: my pattern is too small, which is annoying because I specifically used their measurements to decide which size to get (got a Medium and I REFUSE to think that I'm a large with a 29" waist). Any tips of how to up-size the pattern? I'm afraid the bones will be in the wrong place if I just add at the seams
@DixieDIY
@DixieDIY 3 жыл бұрын
You can probably print the pattern again at 104%, or if you bought the printed version you could do the slash-and-spread method to add an inch or so all the way around. Good luck!
@polkadot8788
@polkadot8788 3 жыл бұрын
Where did you find the instructions for the twill tape straps?
@DixieDIY
@DixieDIY 3 жыл бұрын
I learned about it from this American duchess video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rZlxhtJklpbQkZ8.html
@hazeluzzell
@hazeluzzell 3 жыл бұрын
Has anyone contacted the makers of the pattern?
@TealCheetah
@TealCheetah 4 жыл бұрын
Have you checked your printing/printer settings?
@DixieDIY
@DixieDIY 4 жыл бұрын
Do you mean checking if the pattern is printing at the correct scale? Yes, my test square was accurate so that wasn't the problem.
@sycamorevalley8580
@sycamorevalley8580 3 жыл бұрын
@@DixieDIY It isn't your printer, it's the print settings. I'm on a chromebook now and it sucks. I have to print from the Adobe app (which is a mobile app). On my last computer, I could print from the Adobe program and choose 100% "auto/center" and it would cut off one part, or "portrait" and it' would cut off another. If I print from the chrome pdf viewer, I get the problem you have - it cuts off part of the pattern with no indicator where. You need a different pdf program with more printing options and play around with that. The printer is "dumb" - it just does what the computer tells it to do. It doesn't determine the margins, your pdf viewer sets that.
@penelope-oe2vr
@penelope-oe2vr 2 жыл бұрын
I had the same issue so bad with one of her patterns after 2 months of anger I asked for a refund.
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