What worked for me, put two lug nuts on loose. Start it up, run it up to about 60mph and slam on the breaks, repeat until the rotor is loose. Took about 6 times before both of mine were loose.

I used the bolt method last weekend on my wife's minivan. It spent almost it's entire life in Minnesota winters and were really rusted on. Heat, freeze-off and whacking with a hammer did nothing . I have to replace the rotors on my 2001 Firebird next month and will keep this in mind if the bolt method doesn't work. Great idea and thanks for sharing the video!

I once backed off all the lug nuts on my brother-in-laws Geo Metro and drove tight alternating donut like circles in my driveway for 20 minutes before the first wheel broke free. Sometimes when they are stuck they are truly STUCK. That is when I started using anti seize on axle and rotor faces.

Did the same thing for a rear rotor on a mustang. After being there for 16 years in New England, it wasn't budging, no matter how much I soaked it. The 10 ton puller from HF shot that thing about 3 feet across the shop. Wasn't going to come off any other way for sure.

Very lucky that the weak, chinesium links that attach the jaws to the hub of the puller didn't fail. I bit of fool's advice, have those remade of high strength steel, and use grade 8 bolts and nuts hardware.

Use anti seize on the axle face and around the pilot hub and you'll never have this problem again. And the wheel will never freeze onto the pilot hub either so no more kicking the tire or sledgehammering the tire to get it off. The standard silver works as does copper kote spray. And you won't get the corrosion build up to the axle face and back of rotor. And I've never had the anti seize migrate to the braking surfaces. I've been doing it for 20 years in the Pennsylvania salt belt with 100% success.

That rotor is probably bent now

TWO THINGS....YOU NEED TO BACK OFF THE EMERGENCY BRAKE SHOES...THEN HIT IT LIKE A MAN.. NO NEED TO BUY MOST TOOLS, AUTO PARTS STORE RENT TOOLS FOR FREE....