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"Then the internet will be happy and we'll only have polite, reasonable conversations about important topics." Best punchline ever in a woodworking video.

Wow. I didn’t think that previous video was all that controversial. Seemed pretty informative.

The only noteworthy injury I've ever had working in my shop or in the field was tablesaw kickback. I had an aproximately 1'x1' piece of half inch plywood come spinning back into my stomach. The force of the blow was what I imagine getting hit with a golf club would feel like. The blunt edge of the plywood hit me hard enough to draw blood through my shirt. This was after it lost some momentum bouncing off the tablesaw fence and crushing the corner of the plywood. I'm so glad you are talking about this topic.

I thought I had the fence parallel to the blade on my Delta. My back porch is my ‘shop’, and after a kickback shattered a window 20’ away, I unplugged the saw and decided to mow the yard instead. Thanks for your sound advice 👍

You’re one of the best content creators in the woodworking community. The other day I was cutting some plywood strips and stopped and thought “why am I not using the blade guard for this cut?” These gentle reminders are very useful.

I’m outraged that the clamps in the background are at an angle. It’s an affront to straight clamp organizing everywhere. I can’t believe you want me to organize my life so that all 10 fingers stay on my hands, but you don’t do the same with your clamps. Im going to go out and buy a domino and then return it immediately.

My shop teacher taught us how to use the saw without the blade guard and riving knife. I honestly didn't realize it was a problem until I started watching your videos, which was a real eye opener. You are a big proponent of safety, and I've learned so much from the channel. Thank you!

My grandfather worked in a sawmill about 1963. A 2x4 kicked back and went through his chest. He turned to the guy beside him, his best friend, and said goodbye then fell down dead. I used to stand at the door of his little workshop and watch him. He wouldn't let me go inside. He said it was to dangerous.

I thought your "mandatory blade break" video was a well-rounded, reasoned presentation. And, as owner of a used, guardless table saw, I look forward to your aftermarket blade guard information. Thanks for sharing.

Sir, the comment, "the Internet will be happy and we'll only have polite, reasonable conversations about important topics" is just another shining example of why I follow you on KZfaq. Your humor, directness, and open honest way of sharing information is refreshing and needed in this current environment. I applaud you for doing the follow up, even though my personal views are not wanted or needed here. Please continue the great work and sharing the great wealth of information you have. Thank you!

The blade guard/riving knife discussion never fails to amaze. It’s a standard safety device on any table saw here in Europe.

I had a wood work teacher at Grammar School who used to take chances whilst lecturing. After I left school, he cut his thumb right to the hand on the table saw. Amazingly, his predecessor did the same thing. Both died from long term effects of the injury.

I learned a valuable lesson about blade guards about a year ago. I'm a very occasional woodworker, using a DeWalt jobsite as my table saw. I was ripping a board while building a desk for my granddaugher- no blade guard and my push block laying on the workbench behind me, when my thumb made just the slightest contact with the blade, giving it a relatively minor cut- it frightened me like few other things. I shut down my saw, went over to my shop seat, sat down and regained my composure enough to tell my wife what I had just done, clean and bandaged the wound. After I gathered enough courage, I went back to my saw, installed the blade guard- pretty easy to do- and have used it ever since. Something I thought was a hindrance to using the saw is not- period. I'd love to have a SawStop saw, but I don't see myself spending that much money for one when other tools in my shop need upgrading (Porter-Cable tabletop jointer and planer, I'm looking at you!) Thanks for being an advocate for responsible power tool usage Stumpy, I should have listened to you before I tried to shorten my right thumb. Thank God I was unsuccesful.

Haters will hate, this is one of best channels on KZfaq useful info without fluff, no buy from online store ect... And you remind me of my shop teacher, from fifty years ago, he was a great teacher as well.

I used my table saw twice, and now it sits in my garage holding up a box of cleaning supplies because that tool terrifies the hell out of me.

The best investment for quality cuts and safety at the table saw is a power feeder. You don't put your fingers at risk, kickback won't happen and your cuts on long boards will be better because you don't need to stop feeding the piece to reposition your hands, which can cause a nick that needs sanding out or worse if you slip. A riving knife is not needed but if the tension of a board prevents advancement by the wheels, just stick a shim in the board kerf after the blade. The best for making pieces for glue ups is a power feeder, where you need perfectly straight edges. When cutting plywood, the feeder puts downward pressure near the blade, which really helps for cutting 1/4" that isn't always flat. My 1/4HP feeder is mounted with Mag Switch magnets made for power feeders but that only works on cast iron table tops. Rips less than 1/1/2" can still work but the feeder needs to be behind the blade or the wheels will get destroyed. Better to make thin rips from wider boards with a thin rip guide. The only times I don't use my feeder is on less than 2' boards with rips less than about 4".

Found it! You put the paper on without showing the paddle trigger sander wasn't unplugged. Now the internet can remain the angry place we all know and love! ;)

Wow, people are so full of themselves. There will always be keyboard warriors that will comment on something they should be quiet about. Keep doing what you're doing sir.

My come to Jesus moment was on my router table rather than my table saw. I set up the cut ack-bass-wards. I won't bore you with the details. The first kick back snatched the timber out lf my hand and sent it across the shop. Hmm I thought. I need to hold it tighter. Second kick back. Damm I thought. I need to force the timber into the spinning bitt. Skip the rest. The middle finger of my right hand is now about about an eighth of an inch shorter than it use to be. My doctor, a fellow wood worker, said 'Table saw?' No I said, router table. THANK YOU FOR THE OUTSTANDING CONTRIBUTION TO US ALL. TELL THE NAY SAYERS TO GO JUMP.

Previous video was 100% analytical, sensible, open to conversation. One of the best videos on this channel. Very surprised that people found it controversial, it was by far the direct opposite.

50 year retired millwork professional. The only time we had the guards on was if the OSHA inspector was coming. Stumpy is correct when he says that "kickback" is the most recurring injury accident. All the really bad finger cutting injuries I saw were on the band saws because the guard was too high. The table saw injuries occurred because of "chatter" as the work was not held down properly. This also applies to the shapers. After a few years I could hear a "kickback" about to happen. When I saw Stumpy push that board thru, I see no hold down at all. I preached this my whole career. Hold that work DOWN !!! And wax your saw !

"Who gets to decide what those times are? The user." EXACTLY. Thank you. Amen brother

Fantastic content! Keep up the good work! You're the reason I re-installed my splitter on my saw. It's a low-end saw which it came with a "blade guard shaped device" (great description) that I threw away on day one, it was that pathetic. Big fan of push sticks and push shoes. I also approach every cut with the assumption that a kickback is always possible, so I plan for many "what if" situations to keep me safe around the most dangerous tool a typical homeowner might own.

I have an old Craftsman table saw, circa 1975, that came with a blade guard. In two moves with the saw and the rest of my tools I have misplaced or forgotten what I did with said blade guard. I have never been hurt by the blade and once with a minor kickback that hit my hand was more surprised than hurt. After watching your recent video, I plan to try and find my original blade guard or see if I can purchase one, new or second-hand, to stop tempting fate. 50 years of relative safety may just mean my turn is due. Thanks for restating the obvious for us woodworkers, both high grade and weekenders (like me).

Thanks Stumpy for keeping us abreast of regulatory issues we aren’t paying attention to!

I never appreciated how important ease of removal/installation of the blade guard is until I recently got a new saw. With my new saw, I can very quickly pop out the blade guard/riving knife (as a single assembly) and pop it back in without even removing the throat plate (it's a Harvey saw, like yours, so it has that little riving knife locking pin you can pull back with a finger through the hole in the throat plate). Now that I have that simple, little feature, I find myself more often putting the blade guard back in after taking it out for specific cuts, instead of like I used to do with my old saw where I would remove it never really put it back on for long periods of time. My old saw had the more typical process of removing the blade guard from the riving knife, removing the throat plate, unlocking the riving knife with a cam lever, repositioning the riving knife to the lower position (so that it would allow non-through cuts), relocking it, and putting the plate back in. With the new saw, I just pull back and turn the locking pin to the side (through the hole in the throat plate), pull out the blade guard/riving knife assembly, push in the new non-blade-guard riving knife, and turn back the locking pin so that it springs back into the lock position. That's it. It makes the transition noticeably easier.

That's funny that people didn't understand why the blade guard would be taken off for an ad about the blade.

Looking forward to the video on aftermarket/diy blade guards and riving knives. I've got an old Delta 36-640 that has sentimental value. Replacing that missing part would be half the cost of a new table saw.

I recently disposed of my 15 year old Ryobi table saw from Bunnings (Australia). I couldn't find any aftermarket riving knives that would fit and the one that came with it was wider than any blade I could seem to buy. I had to struggle to force timber past it, which would also push the incredibly bad fence away from the back of the blade. The fence was also that bad that it would flex from side to side, giving an inaccurate cut. I never really did feel safe with it out of the box, but the added issues after replacing the blade was the final straw. I bit the bullet and ripped it to bits and threw it in the bin. When I told my father-in-law that I threw it because of safety issues, he sneered at me. One of those "old timers" with the "it'll never happen to me" attitudes. But it wasn't his fingers on the line...

Blade guards were not common decades ago when I learned to use a table saw. To this day I feel uneasy when I can't see the blade. Cutting very small pieces on an overpowered saw scares me the most.

Your humility & honesty make you all the more a woodworker to appreciate. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

James, I appreciated your coverage. I don't know why people would get upset with you. Thank you for your channel. So much valuable content! ❤

When steering wheel airbags were first introduced as standard fittings for new cars, someone from a road safety lobby suggested that what was needed on all steering wheels was not an airbag ready to inflate, but a 6" steel spike pointing directly at the driver's chest. The point being that the more safety measures provided, the greater risk of complacency or sheer recklessness. I've still got five digits on each hand, but since acquiring a sizeable scar on my right-hand third finger (still visible 37 years down the line) I'm far more focused when using any power tool, not just a bench saw.

The most important safety appliance is that one that is supposed to be located between one’s ears. Either you are properly taught how to “work safe”, and then responsibly proceed to do so, or you are/do not. I’m 74 and have been using table saws and radial arm saws (up to 20” diameter) for 60 years (after I was first taught the responsible and careful use thereof by my father). I’ve been using worm-drive skilsaws for 58 years (once again, after I was taught the responsible and careful use thereof by my father). Similarly, my younger brother was taught in the same manner when he reached the ages of 14 years and 16 years, respectively. We were taught to always remain “scared and respectful” of what those tools are capable of whenever one’s attention to safe operation is allowed to wander and those tools then used in a negligent manner. At the same time, we were also taught how to cross-cut, rip, dado, rabbet, and bevel in a cost-competitive, high-production mode. To this day, none of us nor anyone who ever worked for/under us has ever suffered an injury while using those pieces of equipment in either shop or field job site working environments. The SawStop technology is really pretty remarkable. My objection is not toward the technology which I applaud, but rather towards the mindless government bureaucrats who really have no idea of the manner in which inherently unsafe jobs are actually made safe and productive (and thus cost-competitive and hence economically valuable) by those who perform them on a daily basis. Nor are those same mindless bureaucrats capable of working a blue collar job where earning a living is dependent upon the individual taking self-responsibility for workplace safety for one’s self and those around him. I would like to see the SawStop technology adopted by the private sector and then allow private industry to competitively work to lower the cost to the consumer. At the same time, one other “safety” power appliance that I would really like to see more widely-adapted/used on lower-end table saws, is the powered stock feeder. Granted, those of us who are mechanically inclined can presently purchase a lower-end power feeder for about the same cost as a lower-end table saw, and then rig-up a suitable mounting, but not everyone is thus capable or inclined. What I really want is for the “marketplace” comprised of private enterprise and the consumer to develop and adopt the best equipment and not some mindless bureaucrat attempting to shove his/her personal misconceptions and agenda up our posteriors.

50+ years as a professional and hobbyist woodworker (using a 1940s Delta Unisaw almost exclusively the entire time), and I support most everything said here. About 5 years ago, I cut myself on the tablesaw a couple of weeks after the worst (of less than a handful in 50 years) kickback I had ever experienced. As they were sewing up the tip of my thumb at urgent care, they discovered the multi-hued 6 in dia bruise on my stomach. Suddenly, my thumb wasn't so bad. My point is this: both incidents occurred within weeks of each other after a lifetime of experience. Both were serious, but I still have all of my thumb and didn't damage any internal organs. Along with PPE, which guards and stops effectively are, users need experience and education in using the equipment. Convincing people of this is the hardest thing to do, and videos like this are great for spreading tthe word. What's most important is to realize there's no "one size fits all" solution that *must* be used *all the time *. There's a lot to be said for good sense, experience, and education. One more thing and I'll get off the soapbox: if I'm going to do something and it occurs to me that it could be risky, I stop and think it through. I've found that if I ignore that thought, more often than not, something undesired happens.

Thanks Stumpy for all the great content!! Just have to add one comment... I found the 3M Cubitron Ad to be very abrasive! 😁

My main critique of Sawstop from the beginning is that it may create a false sense of security from all table saw dangers, most of all kickback. And that's why I really feel safer using my Gripper to be able to apply a good amount of pressure to the workpiece for a good clean cut while protecting my hands by putting space and a big chunky push block between me and the blade. Even if I had a Sawstop I would still want to use blade guards and nice push blocks like the gripper, which is why I feel it would really be a waste of money. The main danger left that I have to deal with is keeping away from the blade as it spins down after use. It would be nice if manufacturers would add a brake to the saws to stop the blade much faster after shutting off, and maybe some do already.

After 40 years of experience using a table saw, I had my first kickback event last year. It was a narrow rip that required a zero-clearance insert and no blade guard. But It's an old saw with no riving knife. It turned a piece of oak molding into a spear, which literally impaled itself into the door behind me. In fact, it is only because of my experience about where to stand when using a table saw that I still have a liver. So now let's compare all the devices that could have prevented this accident: 1) Saw stop. Would not have helped. 2) Blade guard. Could not be used during this particular cut. A common situation in the woodworking that I do. 3) Riving knife. Would have prevented this particular accident. So you do the math. Since learning (on this channel!) about the wider availability of riving knives today, I am shopping for a new TS that has one. This is not something I would have said before putting a hole in my door. A relatively inexpensive lesson I think.

We had OSHA inspector coming to a woodshop, saw the woodworker without hearing protection, pulled the main switch and started shouting. The woodworker looked up, looked at the inspector and pulled out a pad "Hi, I'm Henrik. I wad born deaf" He got a bad report "Woodworker, although deaf, not wearing hearing protection "

I've only had 1 kickback during my years of woodworking on my old 10" table saw. No harm was done but the way that piece of wood whizzed past me and up against the wall behind put the fear into me. I looked for a retro curf splitter but couldn't find anything that was workable so I fabricated my own. It works well (tilts with the blade) and I feel more confident when ripping. Thanks for posting you video. ps the splitter was fashioned with portions of a framing square.

James - keep up the good content and remember, you can’t fix stupid. Honestly, in my opinion, the most unsafe thing you can do with a table saw is to use it when you are tired. Making that “one last cut” was how I had my first/only kickback accident. I’m lucky I didn’t lose fingers and only ended up with a nice bruise on my abdomen.

The problem is with the american judicial system, when if i cut myself on a saw that i bought, that i bought without "sawstop" because it was cheaper, i can sue the manufactuer for damages. And i bought the saw before the new safety norms, so I can sue them retroactively. The retroactivity of the sueing is that for me that is mindbogling. That is something like if i take my vintage car for a ride and have an accident, because it does not have an ABS (in europe it is mandatory on new cars) i can sue the manufacturer, because the old car does not have this safety feature.

I'm new to woodworking, about a year. I was working on a project the other day and when I turned on my table saw it threw the blade guard so hard that it went through the drywall 15 feet away. Although it wasn't a kick back per se it could have caused me serious damage if I had of been standing directly behind the blade. As you said we all make mistakes and this would have been a serious one. It was a simple mistake of not having the blade guard locked in correctly. DO NOT STAND BEHIND THE BLADE! EVER!

I was shouting at the TV "where is his push stick!!!!!!!!!", but missed the missing blade guard. 🤣

You’re a professional and I don’t question anything you do. I figure out my own level of safety. That video made me rethink the way I was holding a chisel the other day. Thanks.

When I first started in woodworking almost 30 years ago I was taught to use feather boards and side hold arms which were pieces of hardwood that we would attach to our table to hold our pieces against the fence. We could run the blade into the feather board to keep the blade hidden. This all required making fences for the saws, but it did stop or a least slow the piece from shooting out of the saw.

Excellent video made by someone that understands saw safety as opposed to idiots that have never had any wood machinery education.

You're one of the best Woodworking teachers of this generation… I wish KZfaqrs were able to ignore the haters

The internet will never be happy, polite, or reasonable.

I love that you are taking such a strong and fact based position on this topic. I have been woodworking (strictly amateur) for 40+ years. My table saw is a Craftsman, also 40+ years. While I have not been a fanatic about it, I almost always use the blade guard. One reason is that the splitter is part of the blade guard. So no guard, no splitter. I learned early on that it is wise to have a splitter. No doubt more modern saws have better guards that are easier to attach & remove, but it only takes a few moments to do so. I don’t really see why most woodworkers don’t use them. Maybe if more people watch your videos…

Nothing but respect for this articulate informative wood working enthusiast. I am just a guy who uses a table saw occasionally for construction work. The saw is terrifying and I do not use a guard, but I always stand to the side. With any luck I won't need to use a table saw much at all in the future. I use a plunge cut track saw a lot more than the table saw nowadays, a wonderful invention that has become commonly available and solves the problems of both circular saw inaccuracy and table saw danger.

“Then the internet will be happy!”😂😂😂😂 Man! James, that was the best. Great content as per usual.

Hey Stumpy, I have been watching your videos for several years now and I do not have an expensive table saw. Mine is the Skil spt 99. If you do make a video or videos about after market or diy blade guards I would certainly appreciate it. My table saw has a very weak blade guard with a riving knife that is easily misaligned. I did watch the video about saw stop and the future of table saws and I am glad that I did. I have learned so much from your videos and I thank you for what you do. I am a disabled Viet Nam veteran who picked up woodworking to help me with my combat related PTSD. Keep up the good work you do!

Back in Jr High we got a new wood shop teacher. The old wood shop teacher was also the metal shop teacher and since there was such a large demand for these 2 classes they hired a new guy. Day 1 second hour was my class. We went through the standard greetings and he was going over the safety of each machine. We were at the band saw and he told us not to force a piece of wood through the blade, especially with the grain, as some types of wood can split and your fingers may be in jeopardy. He was also saying to not put your fingers inline with the blade. Well he was demonstrating the saw and as a demonstration he forced the block through too fast, it split and he lost 3 fingers at the first knuckle. He balled his hand up in a fist, hid it behind his back and shut the saw off, told us to go back to our benches and he would be back soon. Well one kid seen the fingers on the saw, and we seen what he had for breakfast. A few minutes later the math teacher (ironically named Mr. Wood) came down to take over the class. We never did see that other teacher again, and I can’t even remember his name.

Advertising a saw blade with said saw blade covered would be akin to advertising a car with a car cover over it.

I'd love a D.I.Y guard video, I bought an ancient Rockwell Table saw that doesn't have a guard or riving knife :)

Aftermarket options will be much appreciated! I have an early 2000’s model Craftsman and the guard / splitter is not great. I’ve mostly used it with guard removed. Lately, I’ve been making cuts for projects that require more accuracy and precision and the lack of a good splitter/riving knife is creating a lot of post-cut work to clean up.

As a 30 teacher of woodworking, my rule has been "always use A guard", which does not always mean the standard, OEM guard that comes with the saw, but usually it does. A push stick or block is also a "guard" in this context because it keeps fingers and hands out of the line of cut. The best OEM guard ever provided was the Delta Unisaw basket guard and "disappearing splitter". Your "floating "guard is similar. As you point out, kickback is by far more common than fingers touching the blade. Proper blade and fence alignment, blade height adjustment and the riving knife/splitter in place are the solution for this. You previous video was clear and concise. My problem is with the politicians and bureaucrats who think that requiring SawStop tech for everyone is going to "protect" all of us foolish woodworkers.

If Big Table Saw thinks they are going to intrude in my workshop they have another thing coming. They can’t have my worksite saw until they pry it from my cold dead fingers, if I still have them.

You're one of my fav presenters! Cheers, Mark

Bada Bing Bada Boom. Kickbacks often send people’s digits zinging off the blade as well. I’m a 68 year old ten fingered Woodworker who just YESTERDAY upgraded the on/off switch on my ancient Dewalt Rockwell #10. The second upgrade of the switch in the 30 years I’ve owned it. And I did it WITHOUT a mandate. I live in Californistan and I Vehemently oppose just about anything the Government tries to Mandate under the Guise of “it’s for your own good”. Because it practically never is anymore. It ALWAYS has $$$$$ attached. Money that costs US and enriches THEM. Cheers. Keep up the great content. I truly enjoy it. We’re never too old to learn.

Hi, you just popped up on my for you page for the first time and I must say I laughed. Why? My father, grandfather, and father-in-law ALL lost fingers on their table saws. In the case of my dad, the doctors managed to sew them back on. Today, when I use any type of saw, I am extra careful! I do not want to keep this "family tradition" going! (I should add, my great-grandfather lost his leg to a sawmill accident!!!) People who think table saws are safe enough have never seen what they can actually do to flesh.

I didn't take kickback seriously until a narrow board caught the blade wrong and shot like an arrow across the garage, out the garage door, and half way across the yard. Luckily, it missed my dog.

Thank you for the Saw Stop video and for this follow up too. I see you as being totally trustworthy and I greatly appreciate your dedication to helping the woodworking community. I'm sure that the silent majority on here feel exactly the same.

Please stop pointing out all the hazards of woodworking, I am an anesthetist and need all those Darwin award winners to stay in business over at the trauma center! Keep up the awesome job, Love this channel!

As an occasional risk taker who has the drill holes in his hands to prove it... accidents are almost always from unexpected moves from your equipment either from when you are applying unreasonable force and you slip onto the spinning/oscillating blade, or from when something catches and either throws debris at you or yanks you into the machine. Every time i injured myself, in the seconds before i have thought: "this action could hurt me badly... ow!" So yeah. Every precaution possible and extreme caution when guard not available

Loyal SawStop user here: I would argue that the most common table saw injury is respiratory, it's just impossible to quantify. Your blade guard, especially that big honker, helps prevent that too. I enjoy your well reasoned content, now Straighten those clamps!

James. Their are who enjoy criticizing everything. Please ignore them. I have learned so much from your educational videos and have become a better woodworker because of them. Keep the humor and continue what you are doing and don’t bend to the idiots of the world.

Appreciate the follow up, but just want to point out that flesh sensing tech would be an AND safety, not an OR. Really looking forward to the follow up with aftermarket options!

One fact to consider is that various manufacturers have thought about adding a blade break/disengage feature to their products but found that their portion of the market just wasn't interested. This whole thing truly is politicians trying to justify themselves for the election.

First, thanks for all the useful information you have provided over the years. I would be very interested in a video, or videos, on aftermarket blade guards, and DIY blade guards, as I have one of those less expensive TS's that had a cheap blade guard the was impossible to put back on the saw. At least the riving knife was not integral to the blade guard. Having the blade guard on your table saw in your videos, is a good idea. You can still show the blade,fence and show how to set the cut up, and then put the blade guard on when you actually make the cuts. One thing you might want to consider is showing the situations where you don't use the blade guard and why you chose to remove it. While people will differ on when they use and not use a guard, I would find it useful to hear your reasoning for not using one and, of course, the precautions you take in those situations. It will at least give us a process to use when deciding to not use a guard. Even though we may differ on when to use a guard, or not, the method of deciding may be the same regardless of the actual decision.

JAMES!!!! You are one of the best at what you do. And have been nothing but one of the most inspiring woodworkers on KZfaq. I find you to be informative and trustworthy. Keep up the great content.

I agreed with your comments completely.

as a lifelong woodworker and Carpenter, you've done the best job explaining the balance between engineering and personal responsibility and part of that responsibility is training. Great job! keep it up.

I'm going to start being safer when using my table saw by being a little less drunk when I use it!

Again, I commend you for being one of - if not the only - voice of reason in regards to blade guards. Despite the faux pas of the particular footage used at the end of that video, you have long advocated for guard and riving knife use whenever possible. I also agree that the user decides when, where, and if to use a blade guard. Unfortunately, KZfaq content creators are also called "influencers" for a reason. There are so many videos of unprotected cuts on KZfaq that I have no doubt that many users have had their decisions adversely "infuenced." Even worse are videos dedicated to rationalizing not using blade guards. Thanks for being the one to swim against the tide!

Absolutely Thank You

I sold my table saw fifteen years ago and haven't looked back. It wasn't only a safety issue but also a space issue in my small shop. The TS needed a ton of space. It dominated my shop to the point that the entire shop was built around the TS and its attendant dust collector. Dust collection wasn't great on the contractor version that I owned, another safety issue, despite my shop made improvements. In my opinion, tool manufacturers have convinced beginning woodworkers that a TS is a requisite tool to work wood. My experience building furniture over the past fifteen years tells me otherwise. But a trip to the museum or the antique store is enough to prove that a TS is not necessary to build furniture. If every project involves buying a sheet or two of plywood, a TS or a track saw is probably the best way to go. But if you like to work with nice hardwood and you enjoy listening to music while working, I suggest picking up a couple of handsaws, a hand plane or two, and learning to sharpen and work with these extensions of your hands. If I need to rip 8/4 hard maple, I'll use my bandsaw to get close to the line and clean up with the jack plane. No blade guards or flesh-sensing technology needed. And I have room to move around in my shop.

The most simple means to keep you safe is by not letting you get distracted from the job at hand. As soon as anyone is entering my hobby shop, I'll stop everything I do and switch of the machine I'm using. I'm looking at all my machines as if they want to kill me and use them with much respect and thinking about what they could do to me. Woodworking is like working with electricity, you don't always see the danger, but it is always present. In my opinion this video and the previous are spot on, but keep in mind, no matter how many safety options we think of, there is alway a better idiot. 👍👍👍

I've been hurt by kick back twice. Only nicked my finger once. I almost lost an eye with kick back, never even needed stitched for my nick

I have an older Craftsman table saw. The blade guard is a pain to put on, have to have a square handy to line up and takes a couple cuts to turn in. Looking forward to your video on this.

My grand father was a woodworker, he lost a finger from a kick back, his finger did not touch the blade, the wood piece projection was so powerful that his finger simply got totally destroyed. He could have lost so much more.

Hand tool woodworking is the other option, at least for hobbyists. No table saw in my shop and never will be.

I am a novice woodworker and I choose to not use my blade guard/splitter. My tablesaw is a ridgid ts3650. A full cast iron contractor style saw with the motor outside the frame. For anyone not familiar with that saw, the guard and splitter attach to the motor mount outside the saw. It's not part of the bearing block, it's externally mounted. That makes it extremely difficult for even some through cuts as it needs to be aligned to the blade and the way its mounted means it can be tilted. I also use many styles of blades including dado, I do a ton of non-through cuts and use my sled for many operations. 90% of the cuts I make the guard and splitter are just completely incompatible with. I understand and respect that safety limitation. My solution is to always have the blade set st an appropriate height. Use push sticks whenever possible. I use long reach ones. And a featherboard for dado cuts or certain rip cuts. Also I never stand directly behind the blade. I always avoid putting myself and the saw in a position where I make a dangerous cut that results in a injury. I think another huge safety thats overlooked is the throat plate. I have a factory zero clearance that was available for my saw. Zero clearance plates are more safe when doing thin rips or thin crosscuts. The piece cant fall in the blade and potentially get kicked back. And you wont be tempted to fish a piece out if its running. Making them for bevel cuts is the same reasons. My worst kickback was from a jobsite saw that didnt have a plate. I tried to move a small piece away from the blade before it could fall in and cause a kickback and thats exactly what happened

Stop government overreach!! Government’s role in our life is to advise NOT to force nor to micromanage our choices. I don’t want an authoritarian dictator telling me how to live my life. Okay I get everyone’s point. Stick to saw stops. An unnecessary, expensive over reach. Why are we so afraid of making our own choices!!! Are we infants who need constant protection from everything??

I saw the ad in the previous video and I was more concerned about the lack of a riving knife. That said, it didn't change my view that you are a great asset to the woodworking community.

I have used the entry level Craftsman saw for over 20 years and had no issues with it because I used the splitter. The blade guard has been removed for various projects, breaking down sheet goods was the big one. Due to some brain surgeries for one little ruptured aneurysm and a promise, I am the happy owner of a not yet used SawStop. We purchased the slider so I can stand to the left of the blade thus hopefully avoiding kickback. The first time I saw SawStop the gentleman who was showing off the brake used a cheap blade. That blade lost several teeth when the brake worked. I grabbed the tall guy next to me when I heard it and pulled him down. He gave me quite the cussing until his friend showed three of the teeth embedded into the steel where his head would have been. We were not behind the saw, but to the left of it. I couldn’t believe the jury would award the guy that sued the table saw manufacturer any money for his actions. His attorneys must have been very good at not having woodworkers on the jury. We must take responsibility for our own choices. Does anyone know if the Rigid blades compatible with Saw Stop saws? The sandpaper from 3m looks nice, but Klingspor is just down the road from me…I think of them as my Cheers place since they all know my name🤣

Hi Stumpy - I agree - For info, In the UK, whatever you do in your own workshop is ultimately down to the person, but commercially there always has to to be a blade guard for this very reason. Dado cuts are legal here as long as you have a 'floating guard' We certainly can't sell any saws without a guard. I would never use a TS without a guard or riving knife. When I was involved with CE on USA Saws to Europe - your standard USA blade guards also didn't qualify as the plastic moulding wall thickness was too thin to meet the exact specs. needed. New 'heavier duty' guards were introduced for CE.

When i was in 12th grade, the class i was in had windows looking into the woodshop. Teacher teaching a freshman class about safety. Turned on tablesaw to run his hand across the table, knowing he lowers the blade all the way down. But someone used it and the blade tip was up. We heard screaming, looked over, teacher holding his hand up with blood running down arm. He didn't lose any fingers, just shallow cuts

My old Delta Unisaw (like many of us are using) came with a blade guard that was so much work to take on and off that I never put it on. I finally discovered Sharkguard who make aftermarket solutions. Most important to me is the riving knife. (Though it has to be manually adjusted because it is an add on device.) The Sharkguard setup also has a fantastic easy to remove blade guard with dust collection as well. I have all my fingers, but I know from over 25 years of woodworking just how much safer a saw with a riving knife is. The blade guard and dust collection are great added bonuses for me.

I am relatively new to serious woodworking, I've used saws and tools for years though. My neighbor who is a REAL woodworker introduced me to wood working again. This friend was making a cut for a project I was working on, and after 50 years of woodworking without a serious mishap, sliced through his thumb.(no blade guard). My wife put on a tourniquet and I drove him to the emergency room. Thank goodness he didn't lose his thumb, the doc fixed him up, but even a 50 year vet can make a mistake too. I am adding my blade guard today.

just so you know Nubs, most of the people that leave you negative comments(versus constructive criticism) are not career or lifelong woodworkers or carpenters. Just a bunch of people looking for a soapbox. I appreciate just the fact that you're willing to share the news and your views on it. I personally am someone who would be impacted with the changes this new law would propose. I'm not for it in the slightest. Thank you for the insights and your willingness to share.

I have a (self)important buddy that uses the old, “if it’s a hassle sometimes I might as well never use it.” No finger protection and no kick-back protection. Makes me a little sad.

Thank you for another informative video. As someone who junk picked his 3.5 hp table saw with No Riving Knife, I’d appreciate information about retrofitting one to an older saw. 😉

I’ve learned a great deal from you, so your advice always is taken … I use a riving knife (thinned by a machinist to be 1/8”), a feather board, and micro - jig/push handles for every single cut I have ever made… I don’t use the provided saw shield because I can’t tolerate the lack of visibility. I will look into aftermarket options though, as I see the safety in it!!

when I was in middle school shop class, I was cutting a piece of wood and the saw blade suddenly caught on a hidden knot and jumped back towards me. the teacher was thankfully near my station and immediately jumped over to hit the emergency stop. I was terrified to use the saws after that, but I did eventually finish my wall shelf 😂

My dad was a professional full time cabinet maker and woodworker, and he lost half a finger to his table saw, so... be careful out there. I myself went blind almost immediately from spray back from a pressurized can of carb cleaner.... so if you have that stuff in your shop, throw it away. It took me 5 years to get surgery to fix it. Also, watch out for power tools that have a lot of torque when you start them up... rotozips, angle grinders, and hand routers... very dangerous and can get away from you almost immediately if you don't have a firm grip on them. Welding fumes and the UV light from it on your exposed skin and eyes can be dangeorus.

It's actually both impressive and terrifying the sheer amount of incredibly dangerous equipment I've been allowed to operate over the years with zero training.

The only group more at risk than those just starting out using dangerous gear is the people who have used it for years and years.