It's ridiculous how easy people make it look. Pulled my 07 impreza engine it took 2 an half hours with a few people. And broke a couple bolts 😅

You know itll be a nasty little revver eh? Id love to do this to my V7 swap

They are the machine shop

😂

sounds like the case bolt holes weren't cleaned it should never sound like that

Sorta.. this isn’t how a professionally built motor is put together. But this shows how the block goes together

@@Jonny_trans^^ so many things wrong with this video

@@rlew12 man this was two years ago, but what are some things wrong with this video?

I was thinking the same thing but im not a qualified mechanic nor have I put a EJ together but common sense will tell you them sounds are not the beat sounds you want to be hearing when building an engine but then again them bolts are the stretch bolts and im not sure if that has anything to do with it 🤔 but anyway im sure they got it done and I would love to know if this engine is still going strong or has it been out of the car already im guessing the crank got scratched when he dropped it in on an angle and the it fell on its on weight right on the corner of that crankcase which had to of took material off the crank and not stretching them bolts properly in my opinion that is

Probably the sleeved motor, but it depends on the thickness of the sleeves. A sleeved ej20 would be stronger than either. As long as you're not running an open deck block (not recommended for anything other than stock rebuild). Stroke doesn't have anything to do with strength, it just gives you more low end torque for high stroke and lets you rev the engine higher/moves the power band right for less stroke

@@rlew12 Wait. So the stock STI motor comes with an open deck? And, if so, then to rebuild with not open block, then what block do I need and where to buy it?

@@RobHTech STi (USDM) comes semi-closed deck. Check outfront motorsports if you’re looking to rebuild an engine, or maybe IAG for an all new short/long block

sleeved is stronger, but sleeves are quite a pain to deal with. The main reason they’re using this engine over an ej25 is the heads. they flow very well and can rev to 8k (8.5 possibly im not fully sure) from the factory

I realized about 2 minutes in when I was like," he sounds like one of the trailer park boys"

My experience is that Subaru blocks being so compact, don't deform as much as larger and longer blocks. It isn't a crucial procedure on a build of their power levels.

I’ve heard the torque plate is more commonly used in high hp builds. My EJ was honed 20 over, 5000 miles and no problems yes.

Might have been used during bore but not needed for the honed part

smaller engine, less prone to deformation, plus quality metal and casting, I wouldn't worry about it like an LS.

I didnt think it made a difference but the fact it's small makes sense. I've never built an EJ, but my sr and jz both were torque plated. I just thought it was common practice.

Torque plate isn't needed for a hone and cross hatch. OS bore only. They said they did the +.020 bore the night before, willing to bet torque plate on that op

@LAD Teknologies I have 4 EJ's I machined and built myself that ran over 170k each, two of them are sitting in my garage and make just under 400hp, 31 years as a class A machinist and I believe the final honing process doesn't need a torque plate (especially when using a flex hone) because in the case of an EJ motor it has nothing to do with aluminum on aluminum but to simulate the bore distortion caused by a torqued head which can be up to .0016" to .0020"... pretty significant. I've found a torque plate is ultra valuable for grinding ring gaps as well

@@irontiger0462 yeah. I was going to start disagreeing with everyone but then I realized its not even a closed deck build.

It's nowhere near the bearings. Even torqued properly. Have you rebuilt any ej207's? Can you link the video? Also you're not supposed to put oil on any engine or case bolts. OEM doesn't call for that. Usually there is a specific lube that is specifically named in engine rebuilds :)

They must have ment boring the cylinders, if done with cylinder head simulator torque plates and engine block case half torque plates i dont see a problem if block is checked and clearance properly for a stock or slightly modified build,but in all honesty if your goin to spend big money on internals why not just start with new case halfs,halls, in reality if you don't own or have access to all the measuring tools to properly check your work and a dust free place and the proper knowledge to build a engine properly dont wast your time for the little more money just buy a new short block from subaru for a mild build anything more than 400 just buy a iag shortblock rebuild your cylinder heads and build it that way its really the better way if you want it to last if you do all the work yourself and just put your rebuilt heads on a new shortblock you can get a reliable 450hp or more car that if maintained properly could last up to 100k depending on how you abuse that power for about 5000 grand at a shop your goinnto pay additional labor on top of that to about 7000 depending on how many modifications you want ,take your time it will be more enjoyable if you build it yourself. Unfortunately these subaru engines are expensive to build might as well do it right and not twice.good luck with whatever route you choose.

ARP studs aren't torque to yield

The machine shop already checked clearance so no need

I agree. You won’t know unless you do it yourself. It’s not good until verified good.

NV Auto trusts their machine shop...

Never trust a machine shop, always double check, the builder gets the bad name for the failed engine

@zeroyon223 They're using an aftermarket EJ25 crank(79mm), it's a "stroker" for the ej20 (stock 75mm), but they make 83mm crankshafts to go another step up

here you go www.wrxinfo.com/service_manuals/

i meant to bolt the 2 halves of the block

They said it was a EJ207. which is a sti block, so they covered that.

whats wrong with scene?

@@krillonusa was a bit Savage. Should basically drop in but they put it in off angle so it bound on the thrust side of the bearings

Looking for the same thing man haha, I can’t tell you exactly but just looking at the prices of aftermarket bottom end components (crankshaft 1k-2k) (pistons 400-700) I think the engine could cost between 5000 ( for a lower hp application) to about 7000. Obviously this is just estimating and guessing please if anyone knows the answer correct me if I’m wrong

Ben Upde my 2jz K1 H beam rods had a final angle for the torque. They also used ARP 2000 bolts

Use the specs ARP specifies for the fastener if you are using ARP fasteners

NV Auto, Located in Hamilton, Ontario, Canada

I was wondering that too, I always do it just to be sure everything is correct.

They do that regardless

Because some people come from a world of maintenance where those values can often change as technical changes are introduced. I can only speak from aviation maintenance, but one never memorizes the pubs, you *always* use them. When I crank into serious stuff like this on my car, I always keep the FSM's with me for reference. Also I have a pretty bad memory to begin with lol

I have been building engines for over 15 years and never, ever, try to memorise torque specs or sequence. Always refer to the latest specifications

Bro you one of those people that knows everything can you please come and build my motor so it can blow up in 10 seconds 😂