SURFING AT CHURCH I started surfing at the age of twelve. the first time was at "Bolsa Chica" State Beach just north of "Huntington Beach" in California. I remember being knee deep in the water and jumping into white water waves onto a "Jim Turner" surfboard. I continued to surf and in this time I learned to make surfboards. My shop was in the garage of the family home in a town named "Alta Loma", California, which is about an hours drive from the nearest beach. I remember my Father, a Minister, by the name of "James", in all these years took me surfing only one time. The surf was so large that it made the front page of the local inland paper. There was a picture of Dane Kealoha backside at the "Pipe". I talked him into taking me to the beach and so off we headed to a picturesque beach in Southern California named "San Onofre" I attempted a paddle out with a friend, a deaf surfer named "Mumbles", who was the only other person to attempt to paddle out that day. Paddling out at a section of beach referred to as "Old Man's" yielded no success and produced only being washed up on the beach a quarter mile away amongst the kelp driftwood and lobster traps. The waves were just to big and consistent and as a result of this, my "Old Man", didn't get to see me surf. But, I wasn't about to give up yet. Just a little ways up the beach was a spot that was more conducive to a successful paddle out in these conditions. So I let my Dad know that I was going to take a walk and try again about a half mile up the beach. I didn't suggest that he come along as i didn't feel he would much enjoy the walk through the wet sand and rock that one had to negotiate to get there. The paddle out was successful as this beach was more of a point break and I managed to catch a few very good sized waves and paddled in. And this I should have known. on the beach was my Father with the camera. He had followed me to the spot and had been watching and taking pictures the whole time. It figures, my Father passed in 2004 and he was well known for his walking, as a matter of fact, at his funeral, the first two words of his eulogy were, "He Walked". It is quite interesting that my Fathers name being "James", that I would first surf on a "Jim" Turner surfboard but, I think the most amazing part of this story is what I recently realized about the amazing connection between my Father and this surf spot. You see, my Father was a "Minister", and the one and only time he saw me surf was at that spot The name of that spot... "CHURCH" P.S. Also, that one time my Father did see me surf, he saw me doing it with my feet firmly planted on a "Hayward" surfboard. "HEY WORD"!!

You have really captured the feeling of surfing Church, I have surfing there for over 45 years. Thanks!

Love the video. Church is my favorite spot as well. In fact, I go there at least 3-4 times a week. thank you for the great video..

I can't wait to join in, looks so peaceful/spiritual.

Same, one of my favorite waves too. I love this video, so serine and it actually makes me feel like I'm there, but without the cold. :) Although in this video, it looks warm with everyone wearing springsuits. That is also one crazy low tide.

Those are the real dawn patrol vibes

Beautiful cinematic edit. Well done.

Beautiful video, Ben. Awesome footage you got!

Going to Church on Sunday morning. I hear the music! Who called it the church of the open sky? Oh yeah, it was Nat!