Brilliant video! Please please please make more content about film 🙏🏼

You can actually make a positive copy of a negative film in order to project it, but this will make it as expensive as a reversal film or even more.

@@danijelbukovec7844 There is one lab in Berlin having the equipment for printing from Super8 color negatives, Andec Filmtechnik-

@@b6983832 Are they still doing that? I thought they had stopped due to lack of interest. it'd certainly be a whole lot nicer if every lab did it.

@@cubdukat Yes, Andec is still printing Super8. It can take some time, though. They promise to do it in 4-8 weeks, but it can take well over three months.

I'm really happy it could help! Best of luck to you in your filmmaking journey!!

Thank you for your kind words! I'm very glad the video was helpful, best wishes to you in all of your Super 8 endeavors!

That's awesome! Ektachrome really does look great on beach days, especially with those blues. Enjoy your filming!

Thanks so much! In the United States, I’d definitely recommend both Pro8mm in California and Cinelab in Massachusetts. Cinelab is usually cheaper and Pro8mm is usually quicker, but both will give you equally great results! I also have heard great things about Niagara Custom Lab if you’re in Canada. Hope that helps!

Thank you so much! It is a really great film stock

Thank you! I'm glad the video was helpful! I'm actually preparing to make a video comparing Super 8 to 16mm that'll address that in more detail, but here's a quick cost breakdown - just keep in mind, these prices will vary depending on what lab you use, what kind of scan you get, what film stock you have, etc. Regular 8mm is about $70-$85 including film, processing, and scanning per 25 feet (actually 50 feet since you shoot the roll twice and cut the film in half); Super 8 is about $80-$110 for 50 feet of film; and 16mm is about $100-$150 for 100 feet of film. 50 feet of regular 8mm is 4 mins 10 seconds at 16fps; 1 cartridge (50 feet) of Super 8 film is 3 minutes 20 seconds at 18fps; and 100 feet of 16mm is 2 minutes 46 seconds at 24fps. You can also get 16mm in 400 feet rolls. Hope this helps!

Great question! If you’re looking to shoot a single cartridge than I’d definitely recommend the Vision3 200T. It does a pretty good job of getting good exposures in both indoors and outdoors, and if you’re editing in post than it gives you a lot of latitude to adjust the color and exposure. Especially if the indoors will be relatively well-lit from the natural light, then I think you should be fine with the 200T. 500T is also a viable option if you are worried about darker indoors scenes, and you’ll also still be able to shoot that outdoors in daylight too, but you’ll be getting a lot more grain with your image at the same time. But honestly, from what you have described, I think the 200T should do just fine. I have a (somewhat) recent video posted on my channel showing a roll of 200T that I shot if you’re curious as to what it looks like in various scenarios. Hope that helps!

Great question! Basically, only silent (no sound) cartridges are still made and processed in the present day, but these silent cartridges can be used in either silent or sound Super 8 cameras. So no matter if you get a regular or sound Super 8 camera, you can still shoot new, modern Super 8 film! While you can still find old sound cartridges (that only fit in sound cameras), these will be long expired (1990s or earlier), and the sound strip can no longer be processed by most places and they may charge you more to process the film if they can do so at all, and you'll lose the sound anyways. So, TL;DR, you can use silent film cartridges in both silent and sound cameras, and sound cartridges don't exist anymore. Hope that helps!

I really wish that I had been able to shoot them! Unfortunately, Kodachrome 40 and Ektachrome 160 are both long-discontinued film stocks that are not compatible with the modern E6 color reversal developing process, meaning you can no longer process them the way initially intended. For most intents and purposes, they are dead film stocks. Some people have had success developing them as black-and-white negatives, although note that this is a very experimental, very temperamental process that is not guaranteed to work and can give wild, unexpected results when you are able to get results at all. Some labs do this processing, but expect to pay much more than for new film. You can also try developing it yourself if you're adventurous. If you're interested in very experimental filming and are willing to accept the very high risk that they won't turn out, you can find old Ektachrome 160D and Kodachrome for pretty cheap, but it's not necessarily something I can comfortably recommend in 2022. (I should note that I have heard of one case of a *very* experimental process that resulted in Kodachrome being developed in color within the past year, but this is very recent and even more risky and experimental). As for the ND filters and the light meter, it will depend on your camera. If your camera uses the light coming through the main lens to meter, than it should automatically adjust to having the ND filter on. On some other cameras though, there is a separate "eye" that the light meter uses on the front for the auto metering, and these will have no way of knowing if you put on a filter and will be unaffected by it. So basically, it'll just come down to the camera you have. If you have a camera with an option for manual exposure, I might suggest that when using your filter if you are comfortable doing so. Hope that helps!!

Thank you! I just recorded the audio using the microphone on my MacBook Pro, but if you have a microphone on your phone, your headphones, or just a free-standing microphone can also work. Most microphones today will have a decent-enough quality, just make sure you record somewhere quiet without a bunch of background noise, like fans or AC or refrigerator hums or etc. If you have a little bit of background noise in your audio, that’s okay - as long as you voice comes through clearly, you can kinda hide a little bit of background noise using background music added in via the editing process, or you can even use background noise removal software in programs like Adobe Audition or directly in Adobe Premiere Pro. Speaking of Premiere Pro, that’s the program I used to edit this video. It’s a really good program for video editing if you have it, but it’s also expensive - DaVinci Resolve is a free program that’s basically just as good as Premiere, and there’s also Adobe Premiere Rush which is kinda a basic version that is available on desktop and mobile and I think is free. Hope that helps, and best of luck with your KZfaq video!

@@CollinJacksonfilm thanks for the information. Now I just have to sit down and write it.

V3 50D, just like the one that came before it, is the finest-grained negative film around.

@@cubdukat It's amazing how tight the grain is on 50D for sure. I'd love to shoot 50D on 35mm motion picture film some day, that would look really sharp!

Yep! Your camera will read it at 250 (probably, I'd have to know which specific camera in question to know for sure, but either 160 or 250), but ISO 200 and ISO 250 are very, very close and not enough to make a major difference when it comes to exposure, especially with how versatile 200T film is. So you shouldn't have any problem getting a good exposure!

That's the Canon Scoopic 16! It's a really great beginner's 16mm camera if you can find it, it has an electronic motor which allows for longer shots than most wind-up motor 16mm cameras. I've since sold it in favor of the CP-16, a professional 16mm camera used in a lot of TV production in the 1970s

Thank you so much! I got all these rolls, including the Ektachrome, processed at Pro8mm in Burbank, California. They do a really great job at getting consistently great results. I'm in love with Ektachrome too - I love getting my Super 8 projector out every now and then and watching the Ektachrome roll that way, there's nothing else like it!

@@CollinJacksonfilm wow that's so awesome! I am going to use pro8mm when i finish shooting on the ektachrome 100d. so excited for the result! great video thanks so much!

@@cassityeliz That's awesome, best of luck with your Ektachrome! Thank you, glad I could help :)

@@CollinJacksonfilm quick question. Did you get the basic processing option when you got your film processed and developed? or did you do an advanced option? Just curious! There are a lot of different options with Pro8mm! Thanks.

hence- if you got the basic processing option with this film- I would be very happy with the results you got because it is stunning and a lot cheaper than getting an advanced 2k processing done lol) thanks.

I did not know that about Richard Linklater's first film, that's really interesting! Well, there's gonna be another feature film shot on Super 8 coming soon, stay tuned...

@@CollinJacksonfilm Welcome to the club man. I can't wait to see it. By the way Linklater's movie is "It's Impossible to Learn to Plow by Reading Books (1988)"

Great question! It depends somewhat on where you live - in my country at least (the US), there’s a few places you can buy film. You can order directly from Kodak, but they no longer have an online store so you have to order over the phone, but this is often the cheapest way to buy fresh film. You can also get film from large online photography stores like B&H and Adorama; in addition, the labs that will also process your film, like Pro8mm and Cinelab, can also sell you the film, sometimes with the processing and/or scanning service included for a discount. You can also buy it on eBay, but be careful with this. Make sure the seller you buy it from mentions that the film is fresh and has been cold-stored, and make sure they have good ratings. For me at least, the savings from buying film on eBay isn’t really worth it since you don’t know what you’re getting good film, but there are still good deals to be had there if you want to take a risk. Hope that helps!

To my knowledge, Fomapan is only available in Regular 8mm and Double Super 8mm, which are NOT compatible with regular cartridge Super 8 cameras. Both these are 16mm width films that are shot in special cameras then cut down the middle in processing. You MAY be able to find someone who specializes in cutting down this film and pre-loading it into regular Super 8 cartridges, but keep in mind this would just be from a boutique seller and might be more difficult to get ahold of and might be of lesser quality then fresh-from-the-factory film. I also can’t find anyone doing so online, but keep in mind I live in the United States so this may be different in Italy. But make sure not to buy “Double Super 8” Fomapan film as this is completely incompatible with the types of films and cameras I’m talking about in this video. Hope this helps!

@@CollinJacksonfilm Thanks, you saved me a lot of trouble finding the right camera, as I have a Yashica Super 8 camera that my uncle gifted me. The other cheap options I have besides Kodak are Kahl NC22 and Orwo UN54, which I know nothing about. I guess II'll have to try some Vision3 first.

A few decades ago, they used to make Super 8 film with a magnetic strip on the side that you could record sound onto in specific cameras... but this film hasn't been made in over 20 years, and nobody really processes it anymore (at least to my knowledge). You can record sound separately of the Super 8 camera, but it won't have an exact sync because most Super 8 cameras don't have a "sound sync" motor that runs at a precise enough speed to be able to perfectly sync dialog. You can still record like background sound and it'll probably look fine with the Super 8 footage, even if it isn't perfectly in sync. There are a few Super 8 cameras with "crystal sync" motors, which allows you to perfectly sync even dialog to the Super 8 footage, but these cameras are pretty rare and very expensive. If you're wanting to shoot film that involves people talking, like for a short film or a feature film, then 16mm is probably an easier way to go because there are a lot more 16mm cameras with crystal sync. Hope that helps :)

Canon 814 AutoZoom Electronic. If you can find one for a reasonable price, it is a great Super 8 camera!

I didn't know that, I'll have to check that out!

All these films were scanned by Pro8mm in Burbank, CA. I got 2K Overscans for all of them. I got log scans on all of them and did the color work myself in Premiere. Hope that helps!

Haha thanks! I hope so as well. So far I haven't! I think it falls under fair use though as a parody so I should be good

I would probably recommend either 200T or even 500T for sunsets, depending on if you are looking to capture earlier or later in the sunset. It is possible to capture part of the sunset with 50D (you actually see this in my second-oldest video!), but I’d recommend using either of the higher-ISO film stocks as they’ll give you better exposure

Glad the video helped! :)

We’re Finally Landing - Home :)

Your English is really good, probably better than mine to be honest! That’s really awesome about your experiences shooting Super 8 back in the 1980s! It is definitely amazing how far the format has come in the past few years. The negative films really are amazing - like you were saying, they really bring Super 8 into the more professional realm of 16mm and 35mm filmmaking while also being easier for me amateurs who may have never shot film before. I’d love to see your Super 8 movies, like Frankenstein especially, it sounds really cool! Thanks for watching!

@@CollinJacksonfilm Awwww! I feel tremrndously happy for your words. 🥰 Thank you so much! Yessss, this is your house in the -ass- end of the world. My parents died several years, and my brother and me living togheter. PD: few weeks weeks ago I bought a Sony 4K camera and image it gives is super movie film effect 😍. Sony store were selling 50% off, (I went there non-knowing of those discounts.) 🙂 Now you are a friend of mine, if you let it to me. 😚

To my knowledge, they do not; I think they mainly produce 16mm film and some 35mm film. You might be able to find someone who cuts down ORWO films and fits it into Super 8 cartridges though? I’m not positive on that or not, though.

Yes it definitely is! I usually do a lot of color work in post when incorporating the film into a project, but here I tried to keep it as close as possible to the original color of the film in order to more accurately represent what each film looks like as shot. But with the three negative films especially, they have a lot of room for color grading. If you're interested, definitely get a "log scan" from the film lab, as this will make it a lot easier to color grade in Premiere/DaVinci Resolve/etc!

The trick is to use filters. 500T is a tungsten balanced film. Meaning it's colour balanced for indoor lighting which has a lot more red in it than daylight. That's why on daylight shots it looks a lot more blueish. Same with the 200T. The only film who doesn't need a colour filter on the lense when shooting outdoor is the 50D because the D stands for Daylight so it's already colour balanced for daylight shooting.

Pro8mm in Burbank, CA. They're a bit more expensive than some other options, but I've always great results from them and they're really user friendly as well!

@@CollinJacksonfilm awesome thanks!

What exact kodak app is it? There so damn many of them

I'm actually pretty broke too, I have to work and save up for a while to be able to shoot film. It is definitely expensive, but there are ways to maximize what you get for the cost. The biggest thing is, you have to unlearn shooting with digital because digital allows you to film lots of takes for longer periods and more often, but you end up capturing a lot of subpar scenes and stuff you don't need. With film, it's a lot more about capturing small but really special moments. You can spread one cartridge of film (3 and half minutes) over a whole year, and you tell a whole story that way that's a lot more special than what you'd get on digital, largely because you only have a small about of film. And that way, you only have to buy and process film occasionally. It's all about the art of learning to shoot less and make each shot count more.

Well, no, your finished product is still film. You receive back your developed film, which will be a film negative - only problem is, you can’t directly project a film negative since the colors will be inverted. Hollywood movies, before digital cinematography was invented, were almost exclusively shot on negative film. Negative films have existed since the beginning of film photography, and often editing on motion pictures would be done on the negatives or physical copies of the negatives - and if you really want to, you could still do this just like you could have done in the 20th century. Problem is, you’re going to have a lot of difficulty doing this in 2021, especially on Super 8 (editing directly on film will be a lot easier on 16mm or 35mm). So if you shoot Super 8 negative film, the easiest option is to get a digital scan. It’s not your finished product, and it’s still film - it’s more like an extra product. And it’s a lot easier for sharing, viewing, and editing. Even 16mm and 35mm are also usually transferred to digital for editing, and it’s been like that for over 20 years now. If you do want to be able to project your film, then there is always Color and Black and White reversal films, which come out of the development process as a positive and thus you can easily project them. You could also forgo the digital scan of color negative film and get a positive made of it so you can project it, but you’d have to send it to Andec in Germany, since (as far as I can tell) they are the only ones who do that for Super 8. Hope that helps clear it up!

Wow, that’s a steal! Enjoy your new camera, I absolutely love my Canon 814!

I understand that. If your prefer to project it on the original film, Tri-X and Ektachrome are definitely good for that!

Great question! Unfortunately, Kodachrome was discontinued over a decade ago, and unlike Ektachrome, it uses an extremely complicated and proprietary development process using chemicals that haven't been made in over a decade - it's essentially impossible to get Kodachrome developed as a color film nowadays. You can sometimes get Kodachrome processed as a black-and-white negative film, but this is VERY risky and experimental and much more costly than other Super 8 films, and the chance of getting the footage to turn out isn't as high. Coupled with the fact that your film is almost four decades expired and may not give great results even if the proper chemicals still existed... I'd sadly recommend against shooting Kodakchrome at this point, and would instead recommend shooting on new film like Ektachrome. If you have previously shot Kodakchrome rolls and just want to see if anything can be pulled off them, there are specialized labs like Film Rescue that can try the black and white process, so this might work for seeing footage shot decades ago. It's a huge shame too, Kodakchrome is such a beautiful film stock and I wish I could have been alive during its heyday.

@@CollinJacksonfilm Alright, really sad to hear these news, but I highly appreciate your quick response and feedback! You did really help me out a lot! Cheers ✨

@@LogiicLucky No problem! Wish I could have provided better news, but I'm glad I could help out :)