FYI those about to buy the micro swiss NG. Before you dismantle the old hotend you might want to check two things first. To confirm the new extruder motor works before you set everything up, warm up the existing hotend. Unplug the existing extruder motor cable and connect the new one with the provided extension cable. Using the screen extrude a few mm's. If the gears turn IT WORKS!!! Second, E Steps. Again while everything is warmed up take a spare piece of filament, at least half a metre. Feed it into the new NG until a little bit comes out at the end. Remember this is before you fit the hotend. Trim off the part coming out as close to the hole as possible. Now extrude 100mm. You won''t get 100m out but that does not matter. When the gears stop cut that piece off as close to the hole as possible. Measure it. Might be around 25mm. Now go to the screen, get to E steps and write down that number, EG 92. Using a calculator or lots of fingers. enter the existing e steps number like this 92.00 divided by the measurement you got, .23 = 400. This is your new e steps calculation. Existing reading/new reading = E steps. Change the e steps number on your screen and SAVE IT! REMEMBEBERRRRR SAVE IT!!!!

Great in-depth review Chris!👏 I was curious about this one.

Nice to see you reviewing and supporting local, well-made, innovative offerings.

That is a creative approach to extruder/hot-end, and looks like it does a great job. Good choice of Benchy Timelapse music too. A real toe-tapper! :)

Just received mine. Your video is the most clear and easiest to follow for how I like to learn. Thank you!

Thank you Chris for a great video. It's time to upgrade our trusty Ender 3 to direct drive. As always you cover things as an experienced printer would, and your knowledge base is 2nd to none !!

I wish they had this when I initially bought mine as the one I have no longer homes correctly.

Interesting setup. My main thought through most the video was - Bummer that they didn't address that tiny part cooling fan, and upgrade it. Admittedly, parts did appear to suffer any obvious cooling issues. But my jaw dropped when that X60 Benchy completed! No small feat!

Chris you Rock 🍻

Yep as he says make sure you do the E step calibration mine on a different printer was slightly under extruding at 400 it had issues printing the first layer with the default 400 i had to set m92 e417 with standard PLA. I noticed with the retraction test tower, the higher you retract above 1or 2 the more stringing, this was the opposite of the old boden setup i had. FYI for anyone who has two fans or wants to run Noctura fans there are a couple STLs out there for multiple cooling fans. Loving this NG head sofar.

So glad you got your hands on one, was curious as well with the side feed ! Thanks for another great inside view , stay safe Chris.

love the you're fired from BTTF that you have framed! Great video

Mines ordered and on the way. I've a fair few other upgrades in pipeline too. I'm enjoying the adaptability of the Ender.

I saw this a couple of weeks ago and wondered how it would work. Thanks for the review, good job!!

Great review on this. I ordered one last week can't wait to put it on my ender3 V2.

Nice one again Chris!!! One thing I'd do is, to add a second Z motor and a lead screw to support the X on the right side with all that extra weight.

I bet you are sick of printing benchies:) Thank you for your fascinating and extremely well filmed and lighted reviews. One of the few 3d printing subscriptions I watch from beginning to end.

Wow impressive extruder combo Great video as always Thanks for sharing your experiences with all of us 🙂

Thanks for the review, I'm def gonna pick one of these up. I'm tired of the bowden setup clogging, especially when there's tons of retractions needed for certain models.

Great video as always, just fitted one of these, and I'm having trouble with heat creep. Thought I might have fitted the hot end fan the wrong was round but it's fitted the same as in your video.

That was one amazing X60 Benchy! This seems like a really nice extruder and I am honestly tempted to get a $99 Ender3 from Microcenter and immediately upgrade with this $120 extruder. That would be a killer machine for ~$220! I am also really tempted to use this on some non-Creality machines as well! At first glance I was concerned about heat creep, but that large aluminum backplate should prevent any issue with the smaller-looking fins.

Great, informative, helpful video. Hopefully Micro Swiss starts sending them to their Canadian distributors soon so I can get one to try on my CR-10 S4.

Have you ever thought about doing a caparison video of direct drive units. I put a BiQu H2 on my CR-10s because of its size and weight. I had not seen the Micro swiss NG when looking for a direct drive unit. I looked at several others also but went with the H2. Would be interested to see someone do a comparison video of the options for upgrading to a direct drive. Thanks for the info on this setup.

You can actually do away with the extruder cable by swapping the two center pins on the existing cable

Don't bite my head off if I'm mistaken but I'm pretty sure you mounted the hot end fan backwards. The wires should be in the upper right corner when the printer is facing you.

Thank you for the detailed review. I'll be installing this shortly. Do you have any tips on what you've done to further tune this is? You mention a few times that more tuning is needed, what wood you recommend? Thank you

Glad you could share this info...

How long did you dry your TPU for? A lot of people don't realize TPU cannot be stored in the open and really should be printed from a dry box of sorts. Thanks for the review, this looks nice!

Nice review and a clever bit of engineering from MS.

Is it possible for you to conduct a quality test between this extruder system and the E3d Hemera using super old PLA or wet PETG? I have the Hemera on my E3 pro and the Micro swiss DD on my E5 & E5+. I have found that the Hemera will feed anything but the Microswiss DD is a bit more picky.

Very interesting, I looked at their information and this seems to be only for the wheeled carriage, would be interesting to see if they have a version for a MGN12 linear rail.

I have the Petsfang Blokhead fan that uses the 5015 fan. Will I still be able to use this with the NG? Or will I need to print a new fan shroud?

Looks like a great upgrade! I am curious about the long term usability, so maybe an update video in 6 months or so after a few 100 hours of printing?

Thank you for the years of informative videos, unboxing and reviews. I'd like to start 3d printing (I'm a tech guy) watching tons of your vids. Are you willing to give your top 3 rig recommendations for beginners to buy under $1K? Creality Ender 3/5 Plus; Anycubic; Elegoo... doesn't matter just make sure I have marbles and rubber bands?

Thanks for the video. Very informative as usual I received an email from Micro-Swiss on this product. I presently have a Micro-Swiss all metal hot end which has been a very good upgrade. I may upgrade to an NG in the future. Dave.

Great vid, thank you!. I wonder if they'll end up with a kit for the E5 and E5Plus. They aren't as talked about as the newer enders any more.

The lever moving back and forth at 18:28 is conserning me. That means that something isnt moving 100% centric inside the gearbox. That leads, in the worst case, to inconsistent extrusion. Hmmm.

2:52: Best angle! Thats exactly what I was looking for - never seen a better fitting to the gearing for flexibles. :))) It also seems to be the most durable extruder ive seen so far - its heavy though :/

Highly considering ordering one of these, but I've got a question. I've got a 1st gen Ender 3 pro with a knockoff BMG extruder and stock hotend which prints really decent quality PLA+ at up to 110mm/sec. Can I expect to get close to 100mm/sec without ringing appearing on the prints? Thanks!

I'd like to try this with my Palette 3 pro. Short filament path is key to prevent clogging or jamming at a splice. I might have to try this out. Thanks Chris.

I have an Ender 5 that I am looking to upgrade to the Micro Swiss NG. I've upgraded it to run Klipper. Do you have a guide on configuring the extruder stepping for Klipper? It seems to be measured differently in Printer config file, compared to Marlin, which uses steps/mm

If you had it to do over again, would you buy this with the micro swiss all metal hot end, or upgrade to the $150 Ng with a Revo hot end?

Looks like a great option for printing with rubber bands! 🤪

what is the shroud made out of? it's almost the same weight as the bigtree H2 but we all know how many problems there are with bigtree. I love my microswiss hotend, I haven't had a single problem with it. my bigtree h2 schemes to have problems all the time maybe I'll switch to this one

Me again. Word to the wise. Print at least two cr touch mounts at 100% infill. It is very awkward to fit a cr touch on this thing. The one and only mount I printed before installing this broke and now I can do nothing except put my old hotend back. Which is a no go. So, I have managed to use my old cr touch mount that came with the touch. I intended to print another mount that will properly fit the NG. However, I keep getting "Home XYZ first on the screen" or "Too far" meaning that the hotend is in the wrong position but how do I get it in the right position? I can adjust the Z until I am blue in the face but getting the X & Y is baffling. I have reset to defaults. Moved the carriage this way and that way. Homed a hundred times. Bed is perfectly level. I can manually move the carriage and set the home settings but whenever I try to print I get "Too Far" again. Grrrrrr

Great video Chris! It was good to see you at RRTF. Where did you get that took to tighten the nozzle?

Excelent video in your opinión with is the best option Microswicht NG or Sprite Pro Kit. Thanks

One bad thing is that they don't include a new heater or thermistor, and that the included baffle is for a single 4010 fan which is very weak

looks like a nive "droppin kit" not sold on the part cooling. two side cooling is a must for me. I do have to give them credit for not reducing build volume.

I really appreciate your videos Chris, even when it's an upgrade for a machine I don't even posses. I presume that you cannot print as fast (if you were going for speed rather than quality) with this upgrade because of the mass of the direct drive compared to the original hotend?? Have you tried a speed comparison? What slicer do you use? I user ideaMaker which I can highly recommend. Thanks.

I adjust the eccentric nuts until I can't move the wheels without the carriage moving, but it still rolls smoothly. Seems to be great

Great video. Thanks for sharing

How do you think this compares to the Hemera?

Just ordered mine. The stock ender3 is a PLA only machine. Let's be realistic about that. So I am doubleing the cost of my machine in hopes that I can finally get decent PETG prints.

Chris, ¿how would you install a adxl345 in this?

Also the fan is blowing from both sides. The only stoping me is the price. I dont want to replace my 60 dollar hot wnd with direct drive for now. But looks amazing.

Any idea on settings for "printer.cfg" when using Klipper? For both extruder settings and the BL Touch to nozzle offset (using the bracket from Thingiverse from the instructions for my Ender 3). All of the instructions I've seen for this direct drive extruder is for Marlin firmware. I know I'll be able to measure and figure out the X and Y offset for the BL Touch probe to nozzle, but with an infant son at home, I have limited time to work on my printer without upsetting my wife. It would be nice to copy and paste these details or type it in without having to do all the measuring.

would I need any software upgrades or ? can I continue to use Cura?

I just bought the Biqu H2 for one of my 5+ and now I'm thinking should I have gotten the NG instead.

Can this print out Nylon X and filaments like it

Could the Micro Swiss NG direct drive kit be used on an Ender-3 Max Neo?

Hey Chris! Loving your videos man, good job and please keep them going. I'm debating upgrading to this same setup on the ender 3v2. I'm curious if you've found the need to add a second z axis motor or if it's been running fine on the single even with the added weight.

How does this extruder compare to the original Micro Swiss direct drive setup?

I just installed this hotend because it looked fun. Now it's producing weird clicking sounds during retraction moves (retractions testet from 1mm to 0.3mm with speeds from 45mm/s to 35mm/s). Had anyone else this problem? And nope the extruder isn't slipping. The extrusion is fine. It's just annoying.

Which reseller did you get the torque tool from. I looked on there site and was having a bit of trouble. Finding someone that has it listed for sale. I called a supplier down south but they only had Ruby nozzles etc.

Is there an x axis linear rail upgrade with brackets that will allow the ng to be used without the wheels?

Chris, do they have mounting parts to fit this to a Prusa MK3s ? Thank you for sharing this with us all.

Any increase in the hot end temp from the normal bowen temps? I heard all metal extruders can cause this to vary

Can I mod it to have a volcano nozzle

Can it print CF nylon

2:32 unique solution but i dont see the improvment or what benefit try versus actuals solution. That unique and complex shape make it expensive part to replace. Bontech LGX for me make it better this time.

Can you share your setting profile plz

and you did not smoke your stepper driver by connecting the stepper motor while the printer was on??? lucky

Wow, wish I would have waited till after I saw this. I bought an orbiter and a dragon hotend and all kinds of fans and crap and even with some shopping around for the best price I paid more....not to mention the fact that its all sitting in a parts drawer waiting for me to print a massive shroud and get off my butt to install it. The real problem is that the printer is running so well that I'm not really bothered with it right now.

what fans would you recommend for an upgraded part cooling fan for this?

And again a new, nicely engineered extruder without angled teeth on the gears. Just design the filament drivin gears bigger, angle the teeth and get rid of artifacts caused by mechanic!

Nice extruder I still find it funny how microswiss has nothing to do with Switzerland

Thank you for the review. Do you think it's good enough to clone? I always wonder how long it will take for someone to clone something like this if its good enough to copy. Great video.

So no ability to manually extrude?

Hi Chris how about if you try an afterburner on Ender 3?

Another Quality Video brought to you by Riley Enterprises... 😛

Call me a pedantic ( _actual_ ) Swiss but that shiny Aluminium Mount _specifically_ made for a *_black_* powder coated / anodized 3D Printer is _kinda_ rubbing me the wrong way 🤨 Btw... Something that has been bother me for like _forever_ with those Enders is the lack of a 2nd Z-Axis Motor... Have you ever considered testing the accuracy of it during fast movements with something like a Dial Gauge Indicator? 🤔

will this thing work with a CR-10 series printer?

So I've got this thing running and tuned, my esteps are at 434mm and it prints great with Gyers, ran two excellent benchies and one very nice mini. Ran into my first issue today, I can not load new filament into it. Everything is functioning as expected. Am I missing something?

Have you tested the bondtech lgx or lgx lite? Both are monsters at flexible filaments, even in bowden configuration. The lgx has so much filament grip, even at 1 amp current it wont grind (has the same total reduction like a bmg oder microswiss ng, esteps are 400)

Hi Chris - I have been hunting around looking for a nozzle tool. I checked with Micro Swiss and they recommended 3.4NM or 30 in lbs of torque on their all metal hot ends. They sent me a link to a tekton 10-150 in lbs torque wrench. I seem to be coming across so much conflicting information. Recommendations of 0.5 N all the way to 3.4 N. What is your experience and do you have an opinion on a tool that can function well with different hot ends?

this is really nice hotend extruder combo, but I always aske myself how do you spend mony on an upgrade that is as expensive and maybe more expensive than the printer. should you buy a different printer then?

For $120 they couldn't at least bump the fan to a 5015/5020? Considering they are ducting this into a dual.. that seems like a requirement. I hope they update the shroud design and consider including a better 24v fan, also no real integral strain relief for the cables either.

I had an orbiter / microswiss combo and the microswiss jammed so much that I had to remove it.

Went to order one yesterday out of stock.

23:04 I have never printed a successful benchy. My first one failed. I adjusted my steps and printed a single layer test pattern. Never tried another benchy. Seems like a waste of plastic.

Any issues with heat creep when printing pla?? i know my original micro swiss had bad heat creep issues when printing pla using the stock fan shroud..

makes no sense they reuse the stock fan for the new shroud. Are they really cheapening out on providing a $3 fan lol

Yeah but.. will it play Crysis - Sorry.... Ermm, is it suitable for an Ender 3 V2 too? EDIT: I Googled... that's a YES 😎

The outlet of your partsfan should be in the down direction, not. Your position is not correct. But the rest of your video is very informative.

Are you excited or low on sugar. Hands shaking a lot. Thank you for the review.

Hi Chris, i've just seen your video named: Marlin Unified Bed Leveling (kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hbSgftucztKVZoU.html) and get a little confused about a few things, hope you can answer to me. 1- Is it the same procedure with the latest Marlin version (2.0.9.3)? 2- How can I upload the firmware through a flash memory card instead via USB? 3- Do I have to change the same parameters for a Bl touch? If you could answer this I would be very grateful.

that grub screw fixing is terrible....

Chris. Have you lost some weight? Looking good. And I don’t mean it that way

most people think that more cooling is better - its not