Would love to see a follow up to this video explaining your support settings that makes it so easy to remove your supports. Because mine do not come off as cleanly or easy as your's did.

Thanks for comparisons. Video was overdue :)

Great video! Thank you!

I'm thinking of getting the P1S so these videos have been invaluable information. Outstanding job and thanks for making them! I print mainly in ABS so I would really like to see similar tests with ABS/ASA filament if you ever get a chance.

just started playing with my new x1C this week. They include a sample spool of Support for PLA. A tutorial on using this in the AMS to minimize the amount used by using it only on the "roof" with minimal poop would be interesting.

HI thanks for your video! this really helped me. Rich

Adjust the top support layer gap distance to .18 or .2mm for easy separation from your supports.

make a support video on settings!!! all my normal supports seem to stick to the project, what are all those raft layer/base interface support loops??? Top and bottom Z distance settings??? and wwhen would you use them (how do they help??) I lovwe your videos, but this one took 23 minutes to give 5 min or less of information.

Thank you for documenting this. I'm interested in making sure dowel holes in my print are as symmetrical as they can be. According to your explanation, I think using normal supports should do the trick. The holes are being printed horizontally, so the upper half of the holes form a symmetrical arch. I think the normal support may handle the job better than a tree support. I've already tried a tree support and the dowel hole, while still very functional, came out a tad horizontally oblong. I think that is because of gravity pulling down on the filament as it cooled. With normal supports, hopefully there will be enough support to hold the arch up so that it cools in a more perfect circle shape.

if you have something like a bambu with an AMS unit, you can specify one roll use petg, and have the support interface be petg. This will make it so you can have zero distance between support and model, and it will just peel right off.

Helpful video, but whats best support settings for a very large 15 degree from bed angled flat surface?

Thanks for this video! Looking forward to the manual placement video as well.

Thank you very much for this instructive video, I found it funny how you use leftover filaments, I do it too and it's very good. I always follow you with subtitles in Spanish and with a speed of 0.75, so as not to lose any of your explanations. All the best

@ItsMeaDMaDe can you share your tree support settings?

How do you assembly a model all at once with like 6 parts on bed ?

Great video use a 3 layer raft with tree support or they will break from the base … if slightly off level .

I printed some minons and used tree support. Even being careful at the hands I still tore the arm off up to the elbow? Which support should I have picked to not rip off arms and legs?

Is there a link to this model for testing my Creality supports?

I'm looking for normal support but with dissolvable contacts but with the option to set the height of the dissolve material. Like 3-5mm support contact. This would save a lot on expensive support material.

My supports come off much more difficult. I have a X1C and I always have trouble with my supports being so stuck to the print. Is there a setting I could look at that may be off?

What are the settings used for organic tree support? I have used those and they don’t break away so easily in some cases.

where is the file to print the torture test piece and what is it called? is it on thingaverse or where can i find it?

I would suggest that you update your model to have some overhangs above the existing overhangs then test again. I think you will be surprised about the results.

how would this work for small crevices?

Goated still

Hi Chris, I have a question and maybe could be a up coming video or maybe you could just answer to me directly. I've been struggling with some prints of screw/bolt guides such that you could use them to organize screws and bolts. Typically they have a number of holes for sized like #14 - #2 Imperial or 10 mm - 2 mm Metric. However when I print them on my P1S, they always come out smaller. For instance, the 10 mm hole was 9.7 mm, 9 was 8.63, etc. Are there any settings that can be made to improve this accuracy? I printed out a print called Tolerance Test from Makerworld which has 5 square holes and 5 circular holes and each one has what I believe is a measure of possibly how much bigger it was printed: .05, .10, .15, .20, and .25. It also prints a circular plug and a square plug and I guess you see where the plugs fit best. For me it seems that the square plug fits most comfortably in the .15 mm hole and the round in the .10 mm hole. Any comments you could provide would be appreciated, Thanks

Can I have the link to the test model?

I miss your painting content, Chris :(

You da man Mr. Peabody. I had to drop your Patreon because Discord is doodoo. I learned --*everything*-- needed to know from you about slicing with Cura and glad you've added Bambu to your repetoire.

Is this truly the best outcome for supported surfaces? Is there any way to make the supported underside smoother? Sorry but i disagree that any of those supported surfaces look smooth ;for example 22:35. I mean no disrespect, just want a better print.

Never tried supports beyond default. I'm looking forward to trying the other options out.

I'm using up my nearly empty spools as I watch this video, printing OpenLOCK clips

My Bambu Studio does not use rafts under the organic tree support.

Shhh, you're creating artificial gem fusions with those multicolor supports

so funny enough this makes it seem like supports just come off so easy. Mine are like concrete and I am just using all the standard default stuff which this video seems to imply is what you did. not helpful if your not going to show the settings you used, version of slicer (I am on the latest) and what you really changed to make these so easy. My circles like yours are solid and I had to dig in just to get in there to pull pieces out which was a pain. So if this is default stuff maybe your slicer is older and better and I should go back to an old version. If not what the *&*&(& did you change it to

How many times are you going to flash the triple 6? Short term fame and success isn't worth it...

I’ve watched several of your videos. I appreciate your goal with making these. However if you want some advice, try to work on being concise. In other words, make it a goal to deliver as much information in as little time as possible. While watching your videos, I frequently find myself getting impatient/bored/annoyed thinking “he already said this,” “yeah I get it already,” “that’s obvious, I don’t need you to explain it in so much detail.” I find the videos tedious to sit through even though I appreciate the content. I think you can pre-plan the content in such way so as to reduce these to about 1/2 the length while still delivering the same amount of information and it will be more beneficial to the listener as well as yourself. Hope this is helpful and keep up the good work!

Sorry to say but 3 min of info that took 24 minutes to say. What wasn't spoken of is the material chosen for supports. How does water soluble PVA compare? Ease of removal? Cost? Best type of support for water soluble PVA? Using PETG as support for PLA? Using PLA support for PETG? Using other non compatible materials for support material? Can the user eliminate some supports prior to printing in areas that they do not really need support? The importance of designing parts so that they do not need support? How and what should be done in design to eliminate support? Nothing was mentioned for the time of printing and then removing support, and thus that extreme importance in selecting models or designs that do not need support. Removing support from a hole that is 1/2" diameter but 2" deep? The danger of damaging a printed item where the support material and the part can be misidentified? Selecting an alternate color for model vs support? Other issues when using an AMS with support? So much could have been offered rather than the too often used phrase "I'm not telling you what to do..."

painful to watch - to much zoom

Sorry, your glasses can’t be working. After taking away most of the supports you say it leaves it nice and clean but any amount of angle at the top of the supports / bottom of the model leaves it looking like rubbish. Horizontal looks acceptable, just