Just get one, you won't be sorry:)

Agree had one for 20 years its well worth it

Look into the creating the difference tru cut pads. Can do it all by hand and they don’t break the bank

Yo thanks so much!!!! Yep, feeling better now, just a little head cold for a few days I guess. Really really appreciate the support!!!

One more question for you: are you using microfiber towels, terrycloth towels, or some other type?

Microfiber, but it doesn't really matter

But if it works for you ,awesome.

Definitely! It was a great suggestion, sometimes I get moving too fast on stuff that I don't stop to think about it. I know what I'm doing but no one else does lol, so putting this out there helps everyone. Thanks again!!

@Luke Rosdahl thats understandable. You release great videos with great advice. I always look foward to watching ur videos.

Yep, I'd say in general to just reset the surface for every ball you get no matter what company you buy it from.

You'd have to find something to mount the pads on, they're kind of like a round sandpaper disc with velcro on the back, they're kind of hard to hang onto by hand unless you have a "cup" to mount them on or attach them to. Given that, then sure, they'd be great on a spinner.

It's been on the edge for some stuff for us, like my Fate was fine, just had to keep throwing it. However, throwing it once every 5 minutes in league is a little different from throwing it every 30 seconds for a review, it's a lot easier to notice issues or the ball getting slimy in that situation. My Revenant was also right on the edge, it got a little slick but still reacted mostly ok.

@@LukeRosdahl What would you suggest doing if the ball in question would tend to get slimy in a faster paced play and you'd notice the ball reacting differently after a couple of shots? For example I have a Storm Axiom Solid and it tends to get pretty slimy in fast play, I basically adjust knowing it will react less but it's not ideal. Thanks for your insight!

@@scottdudha If it was now, I'm going to blame it on the surfacing issues at the plant, but with a ball like that, I'm betting you need an oil extraction. Basically it sounds like the ball has absorbed all the oil it can handle, and as you get some shots on the ball, the oil just sits on the top because it can't be absorbed into the ball. I'd take it to your shop and have an oil extraction done, then you should be good to go.

Lol . . possibly, but I used to use Ebonite Powerhouse Factory Finish all the time, so it miiight be ok . .

Just depends on usage and how hard your lanes are on stuff. I can get 100 games out of this but we bowl at pretty nice centers

The machine moves a little slower than the spinner, so I'd say 30 seconds a side on 6 sides of the ball on a spinner would get it there. The machine just gives a bit more uniform surface.

The factory surfacing is 500-1000-step 2. Step 2 is pretty close to Brunswick's royal compound. You'll want to use water while you do the surfacing, but that should get you close, or at least that and a few games on the ball should get you back in business.

I like to start with 1000 first, I don't think it's necessary to go all the way down to 500 most of the time, especially on house shots, so for that you'd just go 1000-2000-polish.

Thank you so much@@LukeRosdahl

Yeah definitely, the drill surfacing system is great.

Yeah basically.

I don't really know, just is based on the reaction of the ball and when you think you need it really

I haven't used it so I don't know, we have an exclusivity clause in our contracts, so I can't use other companies' products if Storm makes that particular product. Either way, any polish can be applied by hand or on a spinner.

I'm not sure yet, they haven't made the Rough or Smooth compounds available to staffers yet. The Rough is supposed to be between Step 1 and Step 2 and the Smooth is supposed to be between Step 2 and Step 3. I'll try them when I can get my hands on them, but don't really know yet.

Step 2 was actually discontinued, and yeah it seems to have been all bought up! The new Rough Edge compound is supposed to be close, plus Brunswick's Crown Compound is also very close.

Water is generally recommended to keep the friction and dust down. You wouldn't want to resurface a ball without water, but just changing or scuffing it is usually done or can be done dry. Dry pads on a spinner get incredibly hot incredibly quickly, and a resurfacing machine really can't be used without water or it'll lock up. Dry pads are generally used when scuffing by hand.

Yeah sure. Just take it down to 1000 and polish it back up with the step 2

Ball spinners aren't that expensive, so there's not really a market for used ones. Innovative sells one for less than the cost of a bowling ball

Yeah, I mentioned in the video that they're $35 apiece but they last a super long time

Yep that's just fine!

Yep. Everything has been fixed with a surface reset, so I'm not worrying about it any more. Just going to resurface stuff right out of the box and move on lol.

@@LukeRosdahl I'm thinking the same, but I'm still considering my pro shop guy's opinion too. My reason being is where I'm from ten pin bowling is not popular around here, I'm from the Boston area and candlepin bowling is the popular one over ten pin, so if I want to try it out first before I make my decision.

Reacta skuff is like a 3000 grit sheen, so it's basically 3000 anyway.

They discontinued it, so you'll have to use their new Rough Edge compound instead.

No idea, I'd assume I'm using about an ounce on each ball so 32??

@@LukeRosdahl ok that helps. Thanks !

Yep. I used to be one of those people myself, but the more you learn, the more you grow

Yooo, well first off resurfacing machines go for about 2 grand used, so they're sweet for sure but keep that in mind lol. Angel likes True Blue, completely non toxic cleaner, can drink it if you want, won't change the surface. Chad McLean says it tastes terrible tho haha. For the sanded stuff, reacta skuff is what we like because it has a cleaner and an abrasive in it, so it keeps the lane shine off the ball and keeps it clean without really going hard or too dull on the surface. I like Reacta Foam for just a cleaner, it comes out in a foam of course instead of a spray that runs everywhere. Cleaning DOES take a bit of the hard box shine off but it shouldn't like strip it off.

@@LukeRosdahl thanks bunches.. So True Blue.. is that a Storm product.. I've seen your bottles of Reacta Scuff in your Lab, and I've also seen the Compound 1 and 2 bottles.. Oh, yeah, I know those machines are pricey.. I also want to get the Jayhawk Sonic Water Tank Bowling Ball cleaner.. See, I can buy all these things cuz I don't drink.. and I just get all the Bar Tab and Tips recycled into the Bowling Fund..Lols😸 Thanks again Buddy, And thanks again for all the great Content, Jason

Yep, True Blue is a Storm product. We're also getting a Detox, need to get out of the habit of just drilling a new ball when one starts losing steam, super easy to just detox it and reset the surface and keep using it.

The 1500 polish process is 500-1000-step 2, there's no 1500 grit sand in there first. I personally don't feel like I need the 500 at the bottom first, 1000 gets it plenty dull for me BUT I also don't mirror shine it either like it comes out of the factory.

@@LukeRosdahl I'll try both the strip 2 and the Skuff and see which i like better. I appreciate the reply!

Should read " for a ball with about 40 games on it?"

It'll get it to about a 3000 grit sheen. It's a little smoother coming down from lane shine than going up from 1000, but that's generally what Angel does to just refresh the surface, just take the Skuff back to it.

The 1500 polish process was 500-1000-step 2, which is a 1500ish grit compound. Reacta shine is different stuff, it's a much higher grit polish so you'll have a fair bit smoother and weaker surface

@@LukeRosdahl Thanks very much! Something else to experiment with. 👍

Your method will have a little less teeth underneath... and honestly, there's not a huge difference between 1000 and 1500 anyway. what that'll do to your ball reaction will depend on numerous other things... ball speed, rev rate, tilt, rotation.

Angel likes True Blue and I like Reacta Foam, either one works well though

@@LukeRosdahl I see why Angel likes the True Blue, for the natural ingredients. I’ve used and liked Reacta Foam in the past. I may go with that.

@@Gbuck426 Yep, you can actually drink True Blue if you wanted to, I've heard it tastes pretty bad though lol

@@LukeRosdahl lol

I have them but haven't tried them yet, but yeah I typically go to 1k and then finish it from there with whatever I want to use.

@@LukeRosdahl Have you heard anything about them... at all? I have Reacta Gloss too but I am afraid to use it because of its history. I can't find a date when it was "fixed" nor can I find the date my bottle was made. Makes me not want to use it. I still have some Step 2 left, but it's a couple years old now.

The Trucut pads are a bit more aggressive, so the surface is going to look a little rougher. The diamond dust pads are super high quality so the surface will be more uniform, but don't confuse them with abralon. Trucut is better than Abralon pads, they're more durable by far and more consistent. Abralon and Trucut will give you similar results for the first couple uses, but abralon falls off quickly and ends up giving you a much smoother surface after a few uses.

I read something recently that a trucut pad rated 500 grit will take a ball to 500 grit whereas most other pads the grit rating is the grit of the pad itself. I sort of feel like this might be true because I see quite a few people saying the same thing about trucut pads giving duller results than other pads.

@@RickyBobbyLD This is a little confusing, the grit rating on all pads, sandpaper, etc., is the actual grit of the pad itself. But if the pad is 500 grit and you use it on a ball, the ball will also end up at 500 grit . . Tru cuts are more abrasive, they cut deeper, so visually they're going to make the ball look more scratched up, or make the ball look duller. They ARE better than abralon and they last longer, they do also make the ball look duller, but the ball surface also looks much more scratched up. By contrast, I use Jayhawk Diamond Dust pads on my resurfacing machine, and I can get a ball to 500 with those pads and have it look very smooth and uniform. Both balls are at 500 whether using the diamond dust pads or tru cuts, but the diamond dust pads get the surface a lot more uniform rather than being so scratched up. The DD pads are more expensive and designed for a resurfacing machine tho, tru cuts are designed to be used by hand. Generally though, tru cuts get the ball closer to the grit of the pad than abralon pads do for longer, meaning that a 1k abralon pad and a 1k tru cut will get the ball to 1k for the first 3 to 4 uses, then abralon quickly loses its "grit," while tru cuts will continue getting the ball to 1k much longer. BUT again, just as a rule, the number on the pad is what the grit of the pad actually is, not what it's going to get the surface to that it's used on.

What you'll do is just shine up the overall surface. 1000 then shine will be a rougher final grit than 3000 then shine. If you want hard surface, then just go 1000. Surface isn't a super complicated thing, people make it sound worse than it is. It all depends on how rough or smooth the surface is, that's it. If you go with a rougher grit under polish, it'll kind of blend the two, 1000 will keep the surface from getting too shiny with polish unless you really hammer it, but it's just a rougher surface will be earlier and stronger, smoother surface will be cleaner and sharper.

@LukeRosdahl will 1000 then shine be better than just 3000 no shine?

@@Joshuaperalta8 I don't really know, and it's probably best for you to try both so you understand how it all works a little better.

Yep, we start everything at 1000 and then finish it where we want it from there.

@@LukeRosdahl I use TruCut pads. With a spinner, how many seconds per side should I sand the ball, before using Step 2?

@@Gbuck426 30ish seconds and use water

@@LukeRosdahl Thanks again!

No idea. Step 2 is more of a compound and less of a polish, I don't really know anything about the ctd polish

@@LukeRosdahl ok thanks frr the reply . i have a spinner as well and i do not own sanding

Oh yes, reacta gloss is terrible, so I'd use anything but that. It's a hydrophobic auto/boat polish/finish, so it prevents oil absorption into the ball which makes the outside of the ball slick and causes the ball to be very weak. I'm not sure why they'd want to put that on there, but I have to resurface everything that comes out of the factory now to get it off as it even seems to be cross contaminating the sanded stuff.

@@LukeRosdahl and you say you use reacta skuff on the ones you want to keep dull? So you pretty much hit everything with 1000 then skuff or step 2? Do you ever find yourself changing grit depending on the the pattern, or does this process just work for most balls / patterns for you

@@davvyisaloser Yeah this is mostly what we do for reviews to keep everything consistent. Angel offers a duller look and I offer a shiny look. I've been taking the shine back off and she's been letting stuff lane shine, but she always goes back to the skuff

@@LukeRosdahl I guess last question, where do you get step 2 from these days? I haven’t been able to find it lately. I’ve tried using the polish CTD offers, but I really want to try and compare it to step 2

@@davvyisaloser They discontinued all the step compounds and have some different ones coming, no idea when those will be available though. For now I'd look at Brunswick's Crown Compound, that seems to be the best stuff otherwise.

500 is pretty rough, so I'd have to step up from 500 to 1000, because finishing from 500 to skuff or polish is too big of a gap, and I find that 1000 is rough enough to get the surface reset, but not so rough that it can't be finished well from there.

@@LukeRosdahl Many thanks for the reply. Love to see how you attack this topic in the future as it relates to a factory shiny pearl vs a dull factory solid.

@@frankschmidt8001 I do the same for everything regardless, it doesn't really matter what it comes at out of the box, 10 minutes on the machine at 1000 will get everything down to the same place, and then I go back up from there. I did the very same thing to the Ruby that I did to this ball, and I did the same thing to the Eternity that I did to the DNA, down to 1000 and finished with step 2. That way it gets everything to the same surface.

@@LukeRosdahl Wow, very interesting!

@@frankschmidt8001 I don't mean that I just sand and polish everything if that's what you were asking. I mean that if I want to end up with a polished ball, regardless of whether it came shiny or sanded, I would do exactly what I did in this video. If it came at 2000 and I wanted to end up back at 2000, I'd sand it down to 1000 and then finish it with a 2000 pad. But if I want to end up with a polished ball, the out of box surface has no bearing or effect on the final result, because I'm taking everything down to 1000 to establish a baseline or consistent starting point first.

Oh, just a little spritz here or there to lube it up a little more? That makes sense, would keep it from gumming up, especially with the compounds. I might try that next time.

@Luke Rosdahl Quite a bit. I was a dry guy for years then I think it was actually a Ron Hickland Jr. video that made me try it. Changed the game for me.

@@cardinalcopium5088 Ah cool, thanks for sharing. Should take less polish/compound as well I'd imagine.