Was going to write some BS about suspension but I don't need to, you nailed it. The true art of suspension is getting it to where you want it to be and knowing what your end geometry should be. Well done. All this will pay off on the alignment machine.

I think i just learned more about suspension than i may have ever needed to know... Awesome! Your work is always top notch.

Never apologize for making sure your steering is correct. It protects you and others on the highway. I enjoy your videos, always informative.

Excellent series! I imagine afterward anyone would be a bit mad, but that understanding of how the suspension actually works, means when your driving you'll have a real understanding of what the car is and why. I'd imagine that's more satisfying when its your doing and hard work that made it possible. Well worth the headache in my opinion.

I'm a mechanical engineer in the US, metric is the way to go for engineering, absolutely. For building stuff, i do find it easier to us SAE though, annoyingly, lol. Also, thank you for such a great series. I hope one day to build my own car like you're doing. Next step for me is to get a house with a garage/shop! :)

Incredible work!

Great video. This is one I will go back and watch several times.

Awesome info! Thanks for sharing what you've learned

Awesome summary 👍👍😎👍👍

Must be satisfying getting suspension sorted properly. Thanks for sharing.

Well done sir, glad you nailed it now build so we. An see that big smile when you drive it.

Good on you for seeing the problems then correcting them.

Thanks!

Yes!! This is what I wanted!

Good job, will be interesting to see how it works out on the car. 👍

happy to see you back and still at it.

Optimization is just the beginning! Important step before tuning will be accurately and correctly transferring all of your mounting points onto the car. Tuning may just cost you some of your hair! 10:17 Poking fun, but TRUE!

Smashing

Outstanding, thanks L / S

Interesting stuff with all the roll center (mis)information on the internet. My 2022 GR86 measurements, from the garage floor, for the rear LCA are 7 and 3/4 at the hub and 7 inches at the LCA connection to the subframe. UCA at the hub is 15 inches and inboard is 13.5. 61 inch track width. The distance between the center of the 2 bolts of the LCA is 17.75 inches. So by my sketch/calculation my Roll Center is basically on the pavement. Hmmm. I will lower and raise the suspension and test it the old fashioned way. Lap times.

I know I am hella late to the party with this one, but they do sell high travel balljoints for most GM upper applications. Speedway Motors carries quite a few.

Thanks for sharing. But................. Projecting a laser line onto a vertical surface to check bump steer doesn't allow for changes in track width as the arms move through their arc. You may have more or less bump steer than you've interpreted. There is a good video on KZfaq where some British guys bounce the laser off a mirror and back onto a vertical surface attached to the wheel hub, to measure bump steer. This allows for track width change. Your modeling hasn't shown the effect of the caster angle on negative camber gain with steering lock. When Google looking for what would be a preferred caster angle for a suspension design/system, about the only thing that I did find was a comment that the caster angle should be greater than the steering axis (or kingpin inclination) angle. The greater the steering axis angle, the more it 'dilutes' the negative camber gain with steering lock. So if you have, say 6* of steering axis angle, then you should have 'more' than 6* of caster. How much more? I don't know. Obviously as change your static camber angle, you'll change the steering axis angle. Ackerman angle. Definitely something you'll want to get right, especially if you plan any sort of vigorous driving in tight turns. Having the steering rack mounted as close to cross member like you did on the bench model, has the outer tie rod ends further forward than the inner tie rod ends. This could negatively effect the Ackerman angle. And that's assuming the Ackerman angle is going to be correct when you are using Corvette parts in your Volvo. If the Ackerman angle is correct in the 'vette and the wheel base and track width are very, very close in your car, then it should be OK. But that rack mounting location could induce some negative effects to the Ackerman angle. Keep up the good work.

Always look forward to your videos. So meticulous too. If you just cobble stuff together who'd care?

Sorry I missed this. Maybe I should turn on notifications.

not sure if he is still doing it, but elmer racing was pretty good at taking on one-offs back in the day. Not cheap, but it wasn't a "go away" price either. That may have changed as he has grown. Not sure.

What was your antidive angle as well as it angle of your upper control arm and the lower control arm you mentioned 7° castor i’m really doing the upper control arm on a 97 Pontiac Firebird for auto cross thank you

I would love to pick your brain, because I'm just a guy in a garage too. I'm trying to get my setup right and I'm running into the same problem that you are with getting stuff machined. Nothing is offered for the 2nd Gen Colorado's except a Belltech lowering kit which leaves a lot to be desired. I thought that my bump steer stud that I had made was wrong, but after seeing your spindle it appears as though a bump steer stud will work even if it's not perpendicular with the ground. My stud sticks forward of the vehicle and a little bit in and I was getting terrible bump steer worse then before so I took it off and put the stock inner and outer tie rod back on. Question #1 What type of inner tie rod end are you using? The factory has a long rod link that screws directly into the outter tie rod. If I could find an inner tie rod with a reverse 3/4“ thread then I would be in better shape. The only thing I found for our trucks is a inner clevis kit which causes clearance issues with the rack without using the long travel suspension that the company offers to use with that clevis kit. It effectively reduces your steering radius. Don't want that on a lowered Street truck. Doing U-turns can become a three-point turn. Question #2 what software are you using to put your measurements in? That would help me out greatly. Thanks

Thank you, For someone who doesn't have the equipment and software, what process do you suggest one use to properly setup suspension (track and street purposes). What parts should I start with and adjusting from there assuming the below components will be used on a stock car (in this case, a c6 z06)? Splitter, rear spoiler, coilovers, swaybars, lower ride height, higher grip tires

Bump steer will be the relationship between the normal arc of the suspension compared the the arc of the suspension with the steering connected. It appears your measurement was a combination of the two.

Great info, how do you get it on the car exactly correct? Ps, I just got a mill to keep my lathe company...🤫

do you have power steering? I was never concerned with caster because power steering handled it really well.

So you took a c4 front suspension and want to use it on the old Volvo. Was the optimization for the Volvo's mass and dimensions (wheel base, roll center etc etc), or was the optimization for an arbitrary preference for some sort of driving style? In other words were you making it kinda neutral relative to the Volvo or were you shooting for something specific?

imperial is for wheels and TV's

Why did you want to dial the anti-dive out?

Hey, if you happen to be near Hamilton Ontario, can you drop by and figure out my entire rear suspension for me please, hehehe. I really need to learn some 3d simulation software stuff.

Metric or Imperial? Use whatever you're comfortable with. But make it easy on yourself and stay away from the fractional measurements. That stuff is for guys who work in wood!

Almost all products are designed in mm these days, because parts come from all over the world nowadays. Even though I'm in the U.S. I do all my design work in mm, and my market for my business are old German cars that are all in metric to begin with. I get really upset when I buy an aftermarket part that should be in metric, and is in SAE, and I have to dig out my SAE tools, instead of my metric tools for everything else.

Wait. Theoretical doesn't always work in the real world? Hmmm. Obviously you don't work in govermental planning!