My goodness. Beautiful work.

Nice welding table. Fireball?

Wow.

Since the original steel hood didn’t have any structure I am very curious what the difference in weight was since you used foam core to stiffen the carbon hood.

ThrottleStopGarage you say "Its better to be lucky than to be good",,, well Sir, i do believe that you are VERY lucky and you are VERY VERY good!

It's pretty crazy that you can design this in fusion 360 and 3d print it in stainless now for about a grand.

How about printing the bushings themselves out of tpu?

DIY your hole

Great! Now you can make business cookies! Won't the customers talk? Maybe, maybe even well LOL, but all advertising is valuable.

Harbor freight Warrior 4.5 in Poly carbide woven disc. $7.99 before sale price. BAUER Carbide Grit Triangular Grinding Rasp for Oscillating Multi-Tools. The problem with mill scale is it wants to just burnish or glaze over and you can't get under it. The poly silicon carbide woven wheel are hard enough grit to break thru. Ceramics do too. The triangle carbide grit on the vibration multi tool will break up the scale with a quick pass, then hit with the woven wheel. Use a router speed control to slow down the grinder 11,000 rpm is too fast on scale it glazes, slow it down.

Do you do custom carbon fiber work

Do you do custom carbon fiber work

"stuff it all in, and take it to the junk yard" yeah it feels like that sometimes lol

Excellent work, I'm going to get stuck in on mine once I get my body mounts done (thanks for the idea on casting your own by the way) so I'm sure of the fender clearances. I have slightly less variables than you as I need to keep the lower control arm frame side point on mine but the upper (within reason) and definitely the wheel side are all available. Thanks for compiling the data on things like KPA and Scrub out of all of those cars as a starting spot. Unclear if I start clean sheet on the front or practice by pulling the Q45 dimensions on the rear. Also why the 350Z hub for 5x4.5in [5x112.3mm]? I get not going with Ford hubs with the big centerbores but Nissan/Mazda/Hyundai are all still bigger than the Toyota/Honda size bore you have on your rear hubs. Keep up the great content!!!

Great work

I have a software program that designs headers with the desired primary tube lengths and packaging constraints. A design like this would have only 2 to 3 welds per primary tube. No trimming and fitting,

What part was used to get the 3d printed piece to connect to the exghust flange?

Great video, I'm looking forward to seeing your upright design using the 350Z hubs

Hi, can you use any pva . ( From a builders / diy store for example ) ?. Thanks .

Man you made that old paint shine like new !!! My God it looked great !

I know you already replied that the level was not placed as expected on the hub, but I think it’s important to notice that you were reading the “bubble” level backwards. As you increased bump on the C4 suspension mock up, camber was going more negative. I watched a promo video for the tool to confirm. I don’t mean that this is the right setup for your car, but I don’t want you to be confused and frustrated in the future when using that tool. Also, you are embarking on a long journey if you plan to fabricate all the components. Mike Burrows from the channel Stance Works did something similar and re-did it a few times. He has some good videos to reference on the fab techniques and learnings. Good luck!

Don't measure from the tip of a tape measure if you care for good accuracy, "burn an inch" or perhaps 10mm in your case and measure using the divisions and not the fairly approximate tip of the tape :) The effort you're going into for this is pretty impressive and your willingness to jump into areas where you know you need to learn is great! I will admit the suspension stuff is Greek to me although I've certainly heard many of the terms and have some vague understanding. Much appreciation for trying to explain it as you're learning! The feedback you'rew getting is also awesome and I cannto wait to see what you end up building and how you like driving it eventually afterwards. It's like you're building Tally Ho in automative form - I love it!

your grill looks great - I couldn't find what thickness your stainless was - you have inspired me to try thanks

i know its years ago and you likely forget but what issue did you find was taking the most time when trying to mock up the plastic jig? i thinking to make my own for welding, thanks in advance

Vinegar 1 week in a kids blue pool no grinding... try it works great!

I realize it's been a while since this vid but that filleting was is available through EZ composites from the UK. They also deal in Canada. I'm sure u also know they have many help vids but I watch them over sometimes.

This video talked about a program software that can help you and discussed the details the suspension variables kzfaq.info/get/bejne/m81kl6xms8-1m4U.htmlsi=sLp0ijBVfsHlF1s3

Excellent video.

Its absolutely stupid they want $700-900 for these kits and you can print them on a $200 printer. Its ludicrous. Kit should be ~$150-200

Hello... From Venezuela... A question... What is the name of the hydraulic or electric tool for ironing aluminum or iron sheets?

How much were the new dies? Thanks for the good video. My philosophy on HF tools is: Unless I can eventually use it as a doorstop or hammer, I don’t buy it. In this case, you’re ok. These are heavy enough to be used as a doorstop😇

Wow, I love your honesty and the way you explained your process. From my experience, I would say most will run in loops because of the lack of tyre data available, as most things are fundamentally linked to those characteristics. It is interesting to use existing vehicles to determine your foundation numbers; however, it would say you should make sure you have similar spec tyres to those vehicles and have similar weight and centre of gravity. So, the critical pieces of data characteristics you are missing are the following Slip angle Vertical load Horizontal load Alignment torque Rolling resistance Another factor would be the aero characteristics of the vehicle. I look forward to seeing more videos from you. When I was a student, my go-to was Race Vehicle Dynamics. I think everything I've stated is within that book. Essentially, they say that the suspension is designed for the tyres and keeping them in their ideal window

REALLY helpful. Thanks for the video. I've never used a gun before so I want to give this a try.

what a work of art

Thanks so much for sharing that hard earned information with us, sir. I'm just at the same stage with my build and wasn't confident with the direction I was going in. I'm utilising MX5 front and rear hubs on a scratch built Lotus 11 I,m currently building and was hoping use the same upper and lower control arms but with a different track width. I think I need to go downtrend route you've taken to haveany success...

The explanation of front view design is great, start with the track width you need, add a few locations at the wheel, start from the center of the car then connect the dots. I'll be waiting for the side view and am hoping for a top view vid as well. Concerning top view, most if not all street cars ( use a 77 to 90 full sized GM ) have the lower control arm rotated so the front pivots are closer together. I'm not sure why this is done but I think it interacts with what I'm typing below. The upper is rotated as well but I'd have to look at a suspension to see what way. As for side view, the control arms pivots are tilted relative to each other , I'm pretty sure this has to do with anti dive where braking forces try to add spring rate to the front suspension. Think of it this way. If the brake was locked and you applied a torque in the direction of forward motion , how much torque would it take to move the suspension into droop? High torque = minimal anti dive = nose droops a lot under braking. Low torque = high anti dive = minimal nose droop = possibly too high of an effective spring rate leading to turn in problems.

When poking around with suspension camber gain / loss, I've used a peg board and furring strips to simulate different A arm locations and lengths.

Swoops farmer claws fit great

Brown aviation and Aircraft tools in riveting section at some very conservatively priced tools For hammer forming

Great video! Most of my experience is as an auto tech performing alignments, and while trying to learn more than the basic stuff, it always seems as if most people don't understand. Your video is an excellent explanation of how things work! I've also found that FDF Raceshop's videos were absolutely amazing as far as simplifying the angles involved and how they effect each other kzfaq.info/get/bejne/btqlo8aopqmxlok.htmlsi=oyel6vc4kDc7bJT9

Cool video! I use the C4 front suspension for my race car, and I did a few things to help (not solve) the issue that you observe. My first solution was to get a longer lower control arm ball joint from Howe. Does put the control arm close to wheel hoop though, but 18" wheels clear fine. I also chucked the upper control arm cross bar spacers in the lathe and cut them down to the absolute minimum in the back and enough in the front that I could run more caster than stock for camber gain under steering input. Still doesn't give more than bout 2 degrees maximum static camber and I am going to go to a custom shorter upper control arm to get that sorted. Lowering the upper arm inboard pickup points would help as well, but not sure how much fabrication I'm willing to undertake. Nice video, thanks for making it!

I could only make it through 1/3 of the video before having to stop watching. Having built many chassis with the C4 suspension, I think you should ride/drive a car with it installed correctly before you assume things are not good. Your 2 dimensional approach is probably not the best. Your assumption that you have a grasp on suspension design and it should be shared with the world may be a bit off as well. Hopefully too many people don't watch this video as a tutorial.

Just discovered this channel and this is truly amazing and fascinating. I'm an engineer who first started before my degree, and had to ask what your background is because I am genuinely impressed at your ability to ally practical manipulations and theory.

I’ve been following you for a very…very long time, and I’ve got to say, this one so far is my favorite.

Your camber is clearly going negative, not positive with bump. Are you confused?

Great explanation looking forward to the next episode

loved it. i am still a little confused but thats not unusual, the ah-ha moment will come after a few read troughs. This is well worth a subscription.

I really need this. I am very reluctant to continue ‘trying’ to work with 40+ year old suspension parts and constraints, especially when it is well known that bump steer was an issue back then. I actually like the idea of starting from scratch on my mk7 Bolwell.

Hubris? I'm officially in on this, and a new subscriber. I love hubris!

Great work, well done. Look forward to the next 'teaching' session.