Over all I'm very happy with the result, but there are a few drawbacks. I definitely lost some of the low-end torque, in favour of a higher top speed (I can sustain 95kmh, up to 105kmh on flat ground.) This also means that I have to be more careful about stalling when driving off road, or when hauling a full load in the box. No problem with cold starts, since I have manual control over the choke. But, when temperatures are near or below freezing, I need to let the engine idle until it's up to operating temperature before attempting to move. Then I put it in first gear and crawl (less than 25% throttle) for the first few hundred metres of my drive. Past that point, it drives as expected. I also adjust the fuel pressure depending on temperature. In hot weather (above 25c) I had to turn down the fuel pressure to 1.5psi. I don't miss the fast idle at all, but I did set my idle speed a hair higher than factory. Idle speed is very easy to adjust according to your preference. Basically, all the functions that used to be controlled by vacuum now have to be adjusted by hand, so if you expect to just turn the key and go, this isn't what you're looking for.

@@rensonsyard Thanks for all the detail. I'll keep this option up my sleeve and see if I can make what I have work to my liking. 95% of my driving is off road and I will be putting bigger tires/wheels on soon. So, the torque loss scares me a little. Your video and references were very helpful for me as I had seen this swap posted somewhereelse and was curious. Thanks again, good job!

I think i have a fuel starvation issue too at speed (60kph it wants to drop RPMs) did you figure it out?

Hey 2lateiwon. I follow u!! You have a great channel!! If you don’t follow this guy then you need to.

I do too, im going to do this swap. Have you tried yet?

New sub here. Keep up the good work!

Thanks! I'm thinking of making a follow-up video in the upcoming month to cover those things in more detail. Make sure to subscribe so you can see it as soon as it comes out!

nah it's quite lame that it is its better if it's left right hand drive

I don't remember the exact length, but ideally you want it as short as possible. Depending on what model of carb you use, you might even be able to put it behind the alternator.

Also, the item labeled "drain", where does that go?

For the choke I used a peice of bike brake cable I had laying around. The drain dosen't connect to anything, it lets you drain water or sediments out of the carb as needed.

Unfortunately, the carb is as close as it can get without touching the alternator. If I find a way to change the throttle cable location, then I might be able to make some changes.

I'm not exactly sure why it's LHD. It was definitely imported that way. In fact, the import dealer did have multiple LHD trucks available at the time.

I think it's a fuel pressure problem. I haven't had a chance to experiment with it much, but I suspect that the atv carb is expecting to be gravity fed, so the truck's fuel pump floods it at idle and can't keep up higher in the rev range. On my truck I have a fuel pressure regulator set at 1psi in the summer, 2psi in the colder months. It helps with the idle... Whenever I get a chance, I want to try gravity feeding the carb form a bottle and see if it makes a difference. Unfortunately I won't have time to do any work on my truck this season, trying to get my house finished as soon as possible.

I'm not a mechanic but hopefully this will help those of you who are. This carb is for a "cycle" engine not a car engine. Cycles, whether it be a 3-wheeler, 4-wheeler, motorcycle, etc. have their carbs mounted mere inches from the cylinder(s). When you crack the throttle the response is instantaneous. "Cars" have bulky intakes that distance the carb away from one or more cylinders creating huge pockets of air. To compensate, these carbs are equipped with accelerator (spray) pumps that squirt a bit of extra gas just at the moment when you crack the throttle to compensate for the extra volume of air between the carb and cylinder(s). This prevents having the engine fall flat on its face or even die when you go to give it gas. Back in the day you could actually flood an engine by pumping the gas pedal too much before starting. The mini-truck engines are no different as the carb is on one side of the truck and the head is on the other -lol. And yes the factory carbs on these have accelerator pumps. Naturally its going to fall flat on its face every time (even when it's warmed up) without it's "complicated" factory carb (or equivalent). If you don't mind feathering the pedal then this type of carb will work but it will never be right. Click the thumbs up if you feel like you learned something!

I put the lines together, so the coolant can flow as if the carb was still there.

I do not recommend modifying the carburetor. If the factory part is in good condition and adjusted adequately, yet the engine still doesn't run right, there is probably a problem with something else.

It's the carburetor for a Yamaha Grizzly/Rhino (not genuine part). My truck has the F6A, but it's not a direct fit, as seen in the video some fabrication is required.

I'm sure that could be done. In fact, the Arctic Cat t660 snowmobile uses the same engine block as this truck, and also has a turbo!

@@rensonsyard it looks as tho the arctic cat engine sits more upright in the snowmobile, I'd love to see if anyone has done that swap or if it would work

I modified the tip of the factory cable, but it's probably not the best solution.

I do run into this issue one in a while, seems to depend on the weather. Adjusting the mixture and idle level screws seasonally does help, but I don't have a definitive solution

@@rensonsyard great! Thank you for your response!:)

I dont actualy know what jets are in it, I instaled the carb just as i received it. Perhaps trying diffrent sized would help performance.

That's an interesting suggestion

Thanks for sharing your experience!