Just for anyone in the UK who hasn't tried it- Halfords white spray is superb. Give it a good shake and it comes out very, very fine, so does the zenithal job really well, without that speckling.

I love how your using old sprues as a little miniature pen to keep the minis from sliding about the shop when you blast them with the spray can. That's actually kinda genius.

Thanks for the video Adam. Stepping down just a tad on the brightness scale to a very light grey does change the consistency of the paint quite a bit. Ie less speckles. I've had a lot of good luck using Vajello Light Grey Rattle can Primer for quite speckle free zenithal priming. A makupbrush white drybrush on top of that and things look great.

Walmart in the US sells COLORSHOT Matte White spray primer for about $5 that works really well for this as well. I used it when I was trying to paint up some things while preparing to move and my airbrush was already packed away. Added bonus it is an acrylic based paint so if you get a bit on yourself it is easier to wash off.

I appreciate your videos for the reminder that table top quality is ok. I love painting and like pushing my quality but I’m not an exhibition painter and it’s great hearing other people are satisfied there too.

Yes to marking dates on new cans! A Sharpie is an essential hobby supply. If I buy several identical cans I might write on the cap “Bought x-xx-xx” then later “Opened x-x-x”, then if something goes wrong I can decide whether it’s a too old can or a too humid day.

I haven’t tried this but I find Tamiya white primer rattle cans to be excellent. I’ve commented on this channel before about their buttery smooth responsiveness.

I just wish GW spray primer wasn’t so expensive.

I didn't used to like the GW white from a rattle can because of that texture effect you used to get. So I appreciate this video which gives me hope for a decent white from a can. Shaking, warmth and age depending. 👍😉

I'd recommend trying out Tamiya Fine Surface Primer sometime, it seems to be a lot finer than most rattle cans I've tried.

Game changing tip for primers to save your arm from shaking. Put the can in a bowl of hot water (you need to be able to put your hand in the water). Leave it there for 5-10 mins and then shake for a minute. Mixes perfect and you don't end up with an achey arm.

I always had very good experiences with Vallejo spray primers. They're fairly cheap (like $15 for a 9,31 oz can) and the spray paint dries very smoothly for plastic, metal, resin and 3d prints. Especially the white, it's way better than the Army Painter or Citadel primers.

Yes. Speckly rattle can white. At least that's my rustoleom experience. Moved on to the white drybrush. These white scar primed still look speckly to me,

Mr Surfacer 1500 rattles have been my go-to for a long while. Nothing touches an airbrush when it comes to zenithal, obviously, but in almost 20 years of experimenting with the technique, Mr Surfacer has yielded the smoothest non-airbrush results for me. With Tamiya fine surface primer (a close second for me, but so close that we're very likely in the noise here), these has been by a very long shot the best products out there for a very long time. I'd say from your pictures that it is superior to this new GW product, but I ought to buy the stuff and do side-by-side comparisons.

I did my own tests with "transparent colors" paints from various companies and proved to myself that Rustoleum white or pastel primer color rattle cans work great for those transparent colors. It's much less costly. Using an air brush instead is not only faster, but it creates a thinner layer, and you have more control over where the white paint goes. Bonus, you can prime anytime of the year regardless of the weather. I've also found that the flatest black rattle can paint color I have found is Rustoleum's black Camouflage (they also have matte browns and greens). It's meant for hunters or airsoft/paintball hobbyist to paint their gear.

I don't usually see those speckles when I use Wraithbone, but maybe that one isn't as "White" as you want since it's closer to ivory, so maybe that's why it wasn't in the discussion. Even looking at the White Scar in the video, it looks more speckly than what I get using Wraithbone. I'll try the White Scar though definitely. As an example of how "smooth" or solid the finish I got off of my Wraithbone is, when painting up a mini of Storm from X-Men, I just primed the whole thing in Wraithbone, and then painted in the spots that weren't white, and just kept the Wraithbone how it was. It's not dotted or anything at all

I generally just use a dark primer through the airbrush, and then do the zenithal with grey and white ink. In my experience, it gives much less speckling.

I don't know if you have tried Vallejo primers, but the best Zenithal I have achieved is with Vallejo Black Surface Primer and Vallejo White Surface Primer. The white tends to go on thin after black so you can built up smoother, no speckly layers. Its kind of like a white ink especially if you thin it a bit.

For anyone who might not have the $$ or space for full on airbrush and compressor like me, I recently got one of those kind of wacky looking airbrushes where the compressor is built into the handle. I use it ONLY for priming and zenithal because it's not pinpoint accurate or really easy to wrestle the PSI (The default speed works great for spraying Vallejo airbrush primer, there might be better but that's what I've been using), but for $60 so I can prime indoors any time any season, and get total coverage when I do so? It's kind of amazing. The exact one I use has some goofy vague title called *"Airbrush Kit with Compressor, Portable Cordless Air Brush Gun Set for Painting 30PSI Gravity Feed Dual Action Mini Handheld Airbrush w/ 0.3mm Tip for Model, Nail, Tattoo, Cake Decorating, Rechargeable"* but it works good, the reviews are good, no you can't do accurate good painting but you can absolutely prime and zenithal prime.

I have a couple nice airbrushes, booth, bunch of different airbrush primer colors… but I think spraying rattle cans is fun 🤷‍♂️ I love going out in the sunshine when the weather is nice and priming some models. I think it’s a great time

Adam - blink three times quickly if there's a GW gunman standing out of shot! Those models are in speckle hell.

Honestly, ever since I got an airbrush I have completely stopped using any kind of rattlecan: not only they can be a hassle with the humidity, temperature, age of the can and need a hell of a shake in order to work. They are also a huge waste of money: 22USD for a can that will be useful for what? 30 models? I have just bought another bottle of my primer of choice (Vallejo Polyurethan light grey), 200ml for €12.15 (USD11.85 as of today) because I had run out of my previous bottle that I have used for a little over a year. I run a professional painting service and I paint an average of 5k figures across the different scales per year. Just do your math. Speaking of zenithal, I generally don't use white primer to establish the light parts; I found out that using a white ink (I generally use FW Daler Rowney) produces much better results.

Thank you for this review. I think the Wraith Bone and Grey Seer were already a fantastic formula. Apparently, when you look at spray paint microscopically, it comes out as tiny tiny balls. Before the Contrast technology, manufacturers could get these "balls" only so small. GW now had the breakthrough of those more fine, hence, smaller "balls." I have been told that White Scar is a finer consistancy paint. My next project (finally painting my copy of 4th edition Space Hulk) involves OSL lighting from Black to Gray to White, so I am lookong forward to using White Scar.

If you use an airbrush, it's worth trying white acrylic ink over black for zenithal. I always struggled to get a smooth zenithal, but the ink makes it sooooo much easier.

Hard to find a good white that's not dusty looking. I appreciate the vid. I like the bit of dating the spraycans. That's good

I love in the extremely humid South of the U.S. I wasn't able to spray primer all.this summer because of the humidity. Because of this, I discovered Vallejo Surface Primer + drybrush highlighting gray and then white edge highlights. It gives me exactly the zenithal effect I need and with better control of the highlights. I don't know if I will ever go back to rattle can priming. If I do, it won't be with $20 a can GW primer. I'm glad it works for those who like it and can afford it.

I found Valjeo white spray to work almost as well and at a fraction of the cost myself .

White scars being the best for speed painting for the win!!!

I bought Corax White once. Once. The fine mist was good, but I couldn’t justify $20+ a second time. I REALLY like Krylon’s ColorMaster white flat. I was really pleased with how smooth it was, and for $7, it was much more palatable.

I can say ive used White Scar. Love it very much for Zenithal.

Oh how times have changed. I was at a Games Day in the 90s and I asked the Evy’ Metal guys about undercoating white and I was laughed at.

A fab video, technical , and easy to understand.

Iv experimented with numerous rattle primers this year, so was curious about white scar. Got a free can from a local shop(rewards points) and was super reluctant on the quality. With the climate I live in its extremely difficult to get white primer to work. Spending extra to have a solid zenithal prime changes everything for me as someone who doesn't have access to an airbrush currently. GW's got my money on this one

I just recently used the white spray from Army Painter last week. I was definitely surprised at how thin and smooth it went on. Perhaps it is just me, but I've never had the greatest experience with GW sprays. Bonus is that Army Painter is also a lot less expensive!

I haven't tried the new white scar yet, but I used corax and it was good, but a little fuzzy so I'll try scar next, but in the mean time I've tried vallejo hobby paint white spray 28.010 and it is very smooth and a brighter white than corax, but isn't as durable on plastic as corax is. It works fine on resin though. Sometimes I'll use corax lightly and then finish off the priming layer with a coat of the hobby paint spray for a smoother look.

I've definitely had the most issues with GW white primer (Corax White) and I just finished my last can of it priming some Crisis Protocol terrain. I always knew I had some issue with when I primed minis with it and doing the terrain I could actively see the pain shrink when it hit the model. That must have been the problem all along. I've never had that happen with Army Painter Matt White which is now the only white spray can primer I'll be using. (It's also like $10 less)

I still can't decide which primer to really side with, I just paint for fun so I've been experimenting with different options. I dunno, part of me almost likes the simplicity of applying the base coat with a brush then choosing whether or not to dry brush on a zenithal highlight. First primer was Army Painter, then GW's White Scar.. had no idea it was $22 when I brought it to the register LOL. It does cover extremely well though, which is something I've heard people complain about when seeking white primer.

I had just been wondering what the new one was like for spraying Tyranids and Empire, so thanks for sharing the knowledge!

Fantastic video. Keep up the good work.

Interesting. Here’s my most frequent procedure: Vallejo grey, or (if wanting brighter) Premium white primer: stay with me. Then Nuln oil wash, generous, sometimes x2, or sometimes Vallejo black wash, which is heavier. Then a LIGHT zenithal dry brush - and here’s the thing - not all over, mostly upper parts, and with the brush handle at the same angles as imagined beams of light coming down. Sometimes then reinforce shadows with more wash, sometimes paint in a few white highlights. It sounds complicated but it really isn’t, and often it looks so good I like to look at ‘em for centuries while ‘feeling’ for a colour scheme. This is from a fine art painter who loathes airbrushes & their look, and loves using brushes. It works brilliantly with Contrast or Green Stuff Worlds ‘dips’, and thinly applied coats of ‘normal’. What it gives you is a very controllable and subtle grisaille gradation from complete white to black.

I prefer Mr Hobbies "Mr Surfacerer" or "Mr Primer". I think they have excellent coverage. Also Tamiya Fine Surface is very good. Both come in a range of colours.

Overall a fan of ak interactive rattlecan primers. Kinda cheap and great finish (at least the black one). White one is solid too.

Thank you for including Celsius 😁

I've always been a fan of Army Painter White Primer for zenithal. I love it, that I buy several cans as back ups.

I've heard someone say to use the spray can lines that are for graffiti artists, cheaper than mini brands but the best quality paints and nozzles, bought some to try myself.

I had two cans of Corax white that quickly got labeled “not for miniatures!”. On my Dark Angels I’ve been zenithal highlighting with Wraithbone or Grey Seer.

I started a Blood Angels army awhile ago and now I prime all my modes white

I use Tamiya because that's what I can get where I live and it works greak if shaken well and warmed up

I am in love with the wraithbone the price isn't the greatest but man is it good

there are several possibilities with the “formula” because white paint particles tend to be thicker, and adding different solvents and propellant. Also one thing to watch out for is the air pressure.

As opposed to straight white on black I usually do panzergrau with light ghost gray. Tends to soften the effect a bit in a way I enjoy.

Thanks for throwing in the tip toward the end that “if you’re not going to zenithal highlight, and it’s just white, then you can use pretty much any primer” because that’s what I do and that is what I’ve found too. Why drop $20 on CW primer when I can drop $5 on a decent enough option.

FWIW - I totally see the appeal of the convenience of spray cans, but they create a lot of waste and are more hazardous to your health than the alternatives. For folks that want to preshade with minimal gear, brush on primer and dry brush highlighting is cheap and simple. For those that want to spray, a basic single action airbrush like a Badger 250 or 350 will do a better job, and is still pretty affordable ($50 for the airbrush, under $100 for a basic compressor). With an airbrush there's no toxic propellant, you can choose what you spray, and you're not sending spent cans containing residual toxic goo to the landfill. 👍👍

Thanks for the review. I've been wondering how the new white scar worked. I usually make do with grey seer.

Nothing beats white ink through an airbrush for zenithal highlight.

white scar + apothecary white is the perfect "pale" skin that i wanted for my tyranids. then just slap some contrast colour on the carapace, and done! looks amazing, for the amount of effort. tried with some it as zenithal on top of grey seer, but liked the white scar only more, not care as much for the zenital.

I use Tamiya Fine Surface Primer to paint my Clone Army, for Star Wars Legion.

Answering before watching the video: YES! So smooth.

I use the army painter white spray and I've never had any issues with it. Everything's come out well

Damn living in phoenix I can only spray like 3 months a year in the recommended temps.

Best I have found is the Vallejo white spray paints. They seem to be using a lot of the same chemistry tricks as expensive graffiti paints but they produce a very fine misty spray. Maybe a task built cap? I'm not sure what the magic is. Problem is they disappeared from stores fast and when I have found them again they are priced similar to the White Scar. Still, recommend a taste test vs. if you get a chance.

Is "Ultra-Matt" the name of the next primaris lieutenant?

Mr. Hobby for spray cans are by far the best. Miniature painters should really look to scale model/Gunpla modelers more often. They've figured out a lot of this stuff years ago.

I usually don't use spray primer on minis, but a have a few big demons I plan to use for Reign In Hell so I'm going to take a shot at spray priming. Definitely going to shake the hell out of the can AND use a test mini before spraying the actual minis just to make sure the paint comes out good. I don't know if I'd spend $22+ on a smaller can of paint. But then again I don't usually zenithal prime my minis.

mmm they look to me not very smooth, even after the contrast paint you can see all the white speckles

I suggest you to use white acrylic inks instead white paint throu airbrush. Result is head above with inks for zenithal - no strange dots that you have in your exemples

nothing is more worth it than an airbrush for priming. I love rattle cans but living in Michigan we’re getting close to not being able to spray outside. honestly never used any GW paints, just their miniatures. Space marines are fun but these Gretchen give a challenge

White by Vallejo. Super fine finish, comes out like an airbrush, and is cheaper than GW

Surprised there haven't been more reviews of this paint, compared to all those of the new contrast

Using white GW paint... That's brave

Have you ever tried white ink instead of primer for zenithal through the airbrush? I use Liquitex white acrylic ink over Vallejo primer and I think transition is really smooth.

Love your shirt today!

17€ here in Belgium.... I use 3€ primer from DIY and works exactly the same. But hey.... GW bottle has a cooler label.

Hi Adam. I'm not sure if you can get it over the pond but I've been using rattle cans made by colour forge. An array of colours and are 500ml cans so more paint too. In addition I get them here in the UK.at £8 a can :)

Great video thanks for sharing your thoughts 🍻👍

Soo they repackaged their old original primer from 20 years ago - it was great. looked just like this in terms of spray and texture. They discontinued it, then i went to vallejo.

How much are they charging these days for a can, something ret ard ed like £25 maybe? Would'nt suprise me.

Not sure I agree with your point that the GW sprays aren’t ‘primers’. The reason being that here in the UK, we tend to use the term ‘undercoat’ for primers. Something I noticed a few years back when Wargaming KZfaq channels exploded, was the use of the word ‘primer’ from the US channels which I’d never really heard used. Citadel have called their sprays ‘undercoats’ for as long as I can remember, but their sprays always coat the models in a solid finish.

I feel like the gray is so light it does the same thing for Contrast paints and still goes on better than the new white.

What mini is that airbrush zenithal example? I really like it

Try black stynylrez and white liquitex ink. Even your airbrush version looks too grainy to me.

Airbrushing zentithal is supposed to be done with white ink. Otherwise, it will not look smooth and instead looks like this: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/irOXg6aplqe2k5c.html The speckles look bad unless it is terrain and is supposed to be made of stone. In which case, the speckles look excellent. If you want to speckle with an airbrush, you have to turn down the air pressure super low.

Gets to the actual point at 9:05 and shows the paint.

When you said "really good humidity" what did you mean? Is there a range where it's ok to prime, or should it just be the "lowest" you can get?

Seems like rattle can season has passed here in the midwest.

I wonder how would it compare to automotive rattlecan primers. In europe if somerhing wants to be called automotive something, it needs to have higher standarts than in this case standart hobby rattlecans. From my experience automotive cans have higher pressure, more accurate jets and generally better pigments. But sure this might differ from product to product and company ro company. Its just that car primers can be bought in bulk 8 usd/0.5l can. I cant talk for american side though.

I live comfortably, but I won't pay $22 for a can of damn spray paint! There's really No Excuse for not owning a precision Airbrush. You can get a faithful clone of an Iwata .3mm Eclipse for $15 on Amazon or eBay that works Flawlessly! Then, for less than the price of two of those rip-off spray cans, you can get a compressor with a tank from Harbor Freight. Now you're set for life! PS: Don't listen to the haters, those ,3mm Airbrush Clones are Sweeet....

Pro tip: Stop using Hobby branded rattlecans and switch to Graffiti ones. MTN 94 and Belton Molotow are way better primers (smoother, more consistent) than any Hobby or general purpose ones (Krylon, etc.) at half the price of Hobby ones. They also have the benefit of a huge range of colors. The Molotow ones are especially cool because they are touch sensitive so you get a pseudo-airbrush feel. You also have the benefit of using different caps you can get for different spray patterns.

Maston 521 for white primer and Maston 520 for black primer. Never gonna buy any other primer (in those colors).

I’ve just bought some so I was thinking please don’t say it’s rubbish, relieved that’s you think it’s good😅

Good review

I just got my #WhiteScar, & cannot wait to see my results. ☕️🧐🇺🇸

Corax White I consider one of the worst white spray primers (it isn't even very white). Army Painter Matte White is better, far whiter and gives better adhesion and results for Contrast, Speed Paints and washes. I'll give this a try to see what I think, it can't be worse than Corax... and hopefully it's at least close to as bright white as the AP is.

Has someone tested the Rattle can with a handle instead of the regular sprayer? Sorry, i don’t know the correct Word for it. 😁

The kids be vibing and not jaming these days.

Reminds me of Tamiya Fine Surface Primer. Which is also expensive.

I have this can that I got like, 4 years ago from Krylon from their color maxx line that primed a super smooth white. I haven't been able to to find it again (at least the exact same can), so I'm not sure if they are using a new formula or not and if it's still any good. I'm hoping it is for the sake of my wallet

Great stuff friend 👏 👍

Tamiya Large Fine Surface White Primer (180ml Spray) Tamiya $11.00

I have to be honest, and this is solely my opinion, both the examples shown for the zenithal looks too sandy and spotty, and with the contrast it looked like it was made with colored sand. There are ways to get a very smooth zenithal highlight,just takes practice.